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Trailer hitch

DriftersWay

New member
I was about to install a trailer hitch. When I removed the plastic covers on rear wheel there was no through bolt. Does this come with the RT or do I have to purchase this alone.

Thanks
Butch
 
I was about to install a trailer hitch. When I removed the plastic covers on rear wheel there was no through bolt. Does this come with the RT or do I have to purchase this alone.

Thanks
Butch

Are you installing the BRP Hitch or a after market hitch. If it's the BRP hitch the long bolt comes with the hitch. If it's the after market type you have to remove the axle. Removing the axle requires the belt to be re-aligned and doing the belt tension procedure.
 
hitch

Are you installing the BRP Hitch or a after market hitch. If it's the BRP hitch the long bolt comes with the hitch. If it's the after market type you have to remove the axle. Removing the axle requires the belt to be re-aligned and doing the belt tension procedure.

why do you have to remove the axel on an after market one?
 
why do you have to remove the axel on an after market one?

Beacause they are made to be attached using the axle instead of a separate through-bolt. The factory hitch slips over the hollow axle and is held in place by the through-bolt.
 
What electrical plug comes with the BRB hitch?..My trailer is a 5 wire flat,with separate turn signals. I have a 2012 RTL

The BRP hitches (and trailers) are currently 4-wire, with a square-4 connector. They are not directly compatible with 5-wire trailers which have separate turn signals. You can not use the trailer brake lights and wire in a 4-wire connector using the turn signals, but the turn signals will also function as brake lights, which means amber in most cases. Although legal in most states, I feel that is confusing to following drivers, and should be avoided.

Available solutions:
Do not use the BRP harness/module - wire a 5-wire pigtail dirctly to the Spyder wiring. It will not be isolated, but will work if the trailer lighting draw is not too much.

Separate the brake lights on the trailer, add a wire to the tongue for the additional side, and wire and use as a 4-wire.
 
The BRP hitches (and trailers) are currently 4-wire, with a square-4 connector. They are not directly compatible with 5-wire trailers which have separate turn signals. You can not use the trailer brake lights and wire in a 4-wire connector using the turn signals, but the turn signals will also function as brake lights, which means amber in most cases. Although legal in most states, I feel that is confusing to following drivers, and should be avoided.

Available solutions:
Do not use the BRP harness/module - wire a 5-wire pigtail dirctly to the Spyder wiring. It will not be isolated, but will work if the trailer lighting draw is not too much.

Separate the brake lights on the trailer, add a wire to the tongue for the additional side, and wire and use as a 4-wire.

How would a '10 RT622 with the funky round connector be wired to the newer square-4 on '14?


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How would a '10 RT622 with the funky round connector be wired to the newer square-4 on '14?


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It is pretty easy. You will lose the separate turn signal function in the process...just as with any of the trailer modules since 2011. The brake lights are actually wired separately on the 2010 RT-622, so it is easy to convert to 4-wire function. Just tap a 4-wire connector into the separate brake lights wires (for turn/brake lights), running lights, and ground on the trailer. You can either splice in this connector or replace the 9-pin. Best to make the connections temporary and test the functions before making them permanent. If you are uncomfortable with the work a good trailer shop can ring out the wires and make the swap easily. The new BRP hitch/harness is square-4.
 
It is pretty easy. You will lose the separate turn signal function in the process...just as with any of the trailer modules since 2011. The brake lights are actually wired separately on the 2010 RT-622, so it is easy to convert to 4-wire function. Just tap a 4-wire connector into the separate brake lights wires (for turn/brake lights), running lights, and ground on the trailer. You can either splice in this connector or replace the 9-pin. Best to make the connections temporary and test the functions before making them permanent. If you are uncomfortable with the work a good trailer shop can ring out the wires and make the swap easily. The new BRP hitch/harness is square-4.

TNX. Prolly have the dealer do this when I trade up in '15. Maybe BRP will have a conversion harness by then.


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Does the '14 use a diff hitch than those used on the '12 and earlier?

Found answer in other posts: the '14 uses the same hitch.
 
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Does the '14 use a diff hitch than those used on the '12 and earlier?

Found answer in other posts: the '14 uses the same hitch.

Same hitch, but the Spyder wiring harness/module changed in 2011, then again in 2013. The 2013/2014 version uses a different connector (square-4) than the earlier ones (9-pin round Deutsch).
 
You can still use your 5 wire trailer

What electrical plug comes with the BRB hitch?..My trailer is a 5 wire flat,with separate turn signals. I have a 2012 RTL

cyclelover63, how committed are you to using a BRP hitch? If you're not then do like I just did. Buy the after market hitch from eBay. If you bid right you could get it for maybe as little as a $100. Buy the Can Am trailer adapter harness separately, about $65. It plugs right into the cargo interface connector. Buy a Goldwing trailer isolator for $35. They're five wire. Connect the isolator to the harness, plug the harness into the bike, and attach a flat 5 connector to the isolator cable. Install the hitch and you're in business!

I took pics of my install. After I clean up the wiring schematic I drew I plan to post what I did along with the pertinent part numbers. If you are in a rush to to do something let me know and I'll see if I can do the posting in the next few days.
 
cyclelover63, how committed are you to using a BRP hitch? If you're not then do like I just did. Buy the after market hitch from eBay. If you bid right you could get it for maybe as little as a $100. Buy the Can Am trailer adapter harness separately, about $65. It plugs right into the cargo interface connector. Buy a Goldwing trailer isolator for $35. They're five wire. Connect the isolator to the harness, plug the harness into the bike, and attach a flat 5 connector to the isolator cable. Install the hitch and you're in business!

I took pics of my install. After I clean up the wiring schematic I drew I plan to post what I did along with the pertinent part numbers. If you are in a rush to to do something let me know and I'll see if I can do the posting in the next few days.

The dealer is picking up my Spyder Monday evening,but I can cancel that...Does the aftermarket hitch mount the same way..with the trough bolt,or does it have brackets?...Thanks!
 
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The dealer is picking up my Spyder Monday evening,but I can cancel that...Does the aftermarket hitch mount the same way..with the trough bolt,or does it have brackets?...Thanks!
Brackets. You replace the washers on the axle with the brackets. One advantage, I think, of using the axle to hold the hitch is you can make belt tension and alignment adjustments without removing the hitch. May not be a big deal, but something to consider.

Right now an eBay seller has one at a Buy It Now price of $249. Usatrailerstore used to sell an RT hitch one a week on auction. Some of those went for around $100, but I paid $185 to get mine. Another option. Go to the dealer and have him open up the installation instructions for the BRP hitch. There he can find all the part numbers for the hitch pieces. See what he would charge to order you the hitch with its through bolt, etc., plus the Y-harness. Leave off the trailer isolator. It plugs into the Y harness. Then buy a Goldwing trailer isolator to connect to the Y harness. You can connect it to the harness with a Deutsch connector which you can buy online, or cut off the Y harness connector and splice the wires together.

I went through all the machinations for my hitch in order to 1) preserve use of the 5 wire connection to the trailer, and 2) to save money. If money is a secondary consideration then the BRP hitch is a viable route.
 
Just had the BRP hitch put on the wife's 2014 RTS SE6 and when we got it back she noticed that the original axle nut covers, those black plastic things were no longer there and were in her back compartment. I assume that with the hitch, these covers no longer fit and she wants to know do they have any covers for the axle /hitch nut that is now exposed?
 
Just had the BRP hitch put on the wife's 2014 RTS SE6 and when we got it back she noticed that the original axle nut covers, those black plastic things were no longer there and were in her back compartment. I assume that with the hitch, these covers no longer fit and she wants to know do they have any covers for the axle /hitch nut that is now exposed?

You are correct. They are removed. I do not know of anything that would work as a replacement.

Jack
 
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