johnmicb
New member
I am a newbie to the Spyder world. I traded in my 1200 cc Moto Guzzi Norge and bought a new 2013 RT Limited one month ago (November 2013). On my first extended ride (200 miles), the seat became uncomfortably hot. Searched this forum and found some were experiencing this problem with a '13 and some were not. Took my Spyder in for its 600 mile service with the intention of also having my exhaust pipes wrapped with heat tape, as others had suggested on this forum. The Service Manager suggested he may have a fix other than wrapping the pipes. He said his solution had worked on two previous 2013 RT Sypders. He was rather elusive on discussing "the fix", only saying that he had been able to reduce the heat under the seat by 50ºF on two previous Sypders. When I asked if he would perform "the fix" on mine, he said Can Am should be paying him to fix it. I agreed they should pay, but suggested it was my family jewels at stake, not Can Am's. I asked if he would be willing to give his fix a try on my Spyder if I paid for it. He agreed to do so reluctantly. I got the impression he did not hold Can Am in the highest esteem for not addressing this issue and/or ignoring his suggested solution. I didn't want to get into the politics, I just wanted to get my problem addressed.
When I went to pick up the Spyder, I spoke to the mechanic that actually performed the service and asked what was done to address the heat issue. He said there are two fuel lines that go to the throttle body. The lines are rubber and just slip on to a barbed connection on the throttle body. There is nothing securing the hoses (i.e. a hose clamp) only the friction of the hose on the barb. He went on to explain that these engines run hot to begin with and when they get hot, the rubber hose expands, allowing more air to be sucked into the system. This makes the engine run more lean. More lean means it will run hotter. There fix was to replace the rubber hoses (didn't ask, but assume they replaced them with more heat tolerant hose) and zip-tie the hose onto the barbed connection on the throttle body.
It was 35ºF when I went to pick up my Spyder from service yesterday, so I cannot report if "the fix" addressed the issue. It was also misting rain and I beat a path straight home. I can only say that their explanation certainly makes sense. I was charged 2 hours of service time for "the fix", which was around $180. If it turns out it does reduce the heat by 50ºF, I will be a happy camper. It is a shame to spend +$30K and have to search for your own solutions, but sometimes you have to play the cards you are dealt.
Hope this helps others out there that are experiencing the same issue.
P.S.: I also had the dealer install the BajaRon stabilizer bar. As others have stated, it made a good deal of difference cornering (more flat, considerably less body roll). I have not had a chance to get out on the highway to see the difference, but the added cornering stability gives me confidence that the stability on the highway will also improve.
When I went to pick up the Spyder, I spoke to the mechanic that actually performed the service and asked what was done to address the heat issue. He said there are two fuel lines that go to the throttle body. The lines are rubber and just slip on to a barbed connection on the throttle body. There is nothing securing the hoses (i.e. a hose clamp) only the friction of the hose on the barb. He went on to explain that these engines run hot to begin with and when they get hot, the rubber hose expands, allowing more air to be sucked into the system. This makes the engine run more lean. More lean means it will run hotter. There fix was to replace the rubber hoses (didn't ask, but assume they replaced them with more heat tolerant hose) and zip-tie the hose onto the barbed connection on the throttle body.
It was 35ºF when I went to pick up my Spyder from service yesterday, so I cannot report if "the fix" addressed the issue. It was also misting rain and I beat a path straight home. I can only say that their explanation certainly makes sense. I was charged 2 hours of service time for "the fix", which was around $180. If it turns out it does reduce the heat by 50ºF, I will be a happy camper. It is a shame to spend +$30K and have to search for your own solutions, but sometimes you have to play the cards you are dealt.
Hope this helps others out there that are experiencing the same issue.
P.S.: I also had the dealer install the BajaRon stabilizer bar. As others have stated, it made a good deal of difference cornering (more flat, considerably less body roll). I have not had a chance to get out on the highway to see the difference, but the added cornering stability gives me confidence that the stability on the highway will also improve.
hyea:
