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CASTROL POWER RS RACING 4T SYNTHETIC 10W50
- Thread starter Magdave
- Start date
Magdave
New member
How about using it to top off. Seems I have read the Spyder shears the oil pretty fast? It may not be the best for a full change since full Syn has less shear from what I read but what about BRP's blend? Also is there a benefit in running the RS 10w40 instead of XPS Blend?
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NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
I do not worry about reasonable oil shear and loss of viscosity. Remember that manufacturers make their oil recommendations based on actual tests, and the oils they use shear, too. They take it into account, determine how viscous an oil they can start with to reach the desired end point, without damage from the heavier oil, and set the oil recommendation and oil change interval on that basis...with some margin for error. In other words, they expect some oil shear and loss of viscosity and have engineered accordingly. I would not go to a heavier oil. The risks are substantial and the benefits are unknown. Ride more...think less.
Magdave
New member
Ride more... think less.
As Snoop dog would say, "but, but, but" I can't stop thinking, I might figure out cold fusion... :yikes:
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NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
:roflblack:
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BajaRon
Well-known member
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Nope, it will most likely shear even faster than a 10w40. In 2000 miles, my 10w40 was already a 30 weight verified by Schaeffer Labs in Saint Louis. It was changed. Wide spreads between the low and high numbers usually ( and I say usually because there are exceptions) shear faster because they have a higher percentage of viscosity improvers added to get the spread.
bh164
New member
I contacted the tech rep at Amsoil and asked about which oil for a Spyder RTS SE5.
I have a 2012 RTS SE5 with 10k miles. The last oil change, with antifreeze check, update check, and adjust shift point sensor, he had a print-out saying I shift to early thru the gears, as I like to cruise. Cost came to a grand total of $199.53 with tax ... (the Escalade ESV was 32 bucks with a free wash, vacuum, and tire rotation included at the dealer... leaves me scratching the noggin)?! Well, next time I will do it myself. Amsoil rep. said to use Formula 4-stroke Powersports 0W40 (Zero W Forty) as it's fine for all year round in Jersey. :thumbup:
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johnwinslow
New member
How special is a mechanic at the all-sports shop that you bought your Spyder from? I have known the service rep that is at my dealer, long before I bought my Spyder. In fact, he is the reason I used this dealer, but thru his own admission Spyders are about 10% of his work, and he said he checks Spyder Lovers when he has to research a problem, besides checking with BRP. BRP sets the Service Rates, not your dealer, and I think it is based on the Canadian dollar, go figure. Way too much money, no matter how you figure it! Just my 2 cents. My rant is a long way from oil, sorry I hijacked the thread.
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I asked the mechanic at the local dealership if it was alright to run full synthetic instead of blend. He said if you run full synthetic from the beginning when the bike was new, not a problem. Since the filter kits are blend, that's what you should stick with so as not to damage the engine.
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NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
There are as many unsupported opinions on this subject as there are on the brand of oil. This is the way urban legends are spread. Mixing synthetics with non-synthetics has not been a problem for many years. It was when synthetics first came out, but they are fully compatible with dino oils now.
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Magdave
New member
Thanks Scotty. I did not even want to justify that with an answer :banghead: If it were true, our BRP "blend" would cause all of us to blow up! :yikes:
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ulflyer
Active member
Dave, I've tested several brands of 10-40 and at 3000 miles they've sheared down to 30 or below. I hope Scotty is right that these motors are assumed to have been engineered to allow for an oil to shear that low...its gonna be way down in low 20's by time it gets to 4000 or more...but I'm not comfortable with that. I make up an oil mix that suits me but I'm not going to post it here as one never knows when something contrary to "warranty specs" might come back and bite one in the arse.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
I suppose the easiest way to prove that it is taken into account would be to put in the specified BRP oil, run it 3,000 (or 4,600) miles, then test that oil for comparison. I think you will find similar amounts of oil shear. All oils shear during use. If the original viscosity was critical for the engine to survive, all the engines would suffer damage within a few hundred miles. Worry if you want, but remember that most owners...and dealers...and engineers, have never had a drop of oil tested. It is meant less for production engines than it is for critical apoplications, long mileage engines, and racing vehicles. Sometimes knowing for certain is strictly TMI.
mcaccamise
New member
Same here mine works out well with no problems i guess im not the norm nor is my spyder.
cheers Mike
cheers Mike
ulflyer
Active member
I suppose the easiest way to prove that it is taken into account would be to put in the specified BRP oil, run it 3,000 (or 4,600) miles, then test that oil for comparison. I think you will find similar amounts of oil shear. All oils shear during use. If the original viscosity was critical for the engine to survive, all the engines would suffer damage within a few hundred miles. Worry if you want, but remember that most owners...and dealers...and engineers, have never had a drop of oil tested. It is meant less for production engines than it is for critical apoplications, long mileage engines, and racing vehicles. Sometimes knowing for certain is strictly TMI.
You may well be right and I respect your knowledge of the subject. I do the testing mainly to see how the engine is faring and often that is affected, to some extent, by the type oil, filters, and frequency of change.
A great many rider don't keep their machines long enough for this to matter, and I have historically been one of those until now. I really like my RT and plan on keeping it as long as I can, so perhaps I go overboard with the oil thing, but it gives me a sense of satisfaction when I get a report showing that all the engine wear indicators are normal; a bonus being how well the oil performed.
As to the BRP oil, I've never tested it but I did test Castrol Actevo 10-40 Synthetic Blend....which some have said package BRP oil...and it sheared the most, by far, of two other brands I've tested. The upside is the transmission shifting has been noticeably smoother, so perhaps theres some utility in using a synthetic blend such as the BRP oil. :dontknow:
Tango
Well-known member
For what it's worth. IMO That is too far a gap. I'd rather use a 10-40, 20-50. But that's me. The 10-50 oil is a 50 weight oil with additives that thin it to a 10 weight. The wider the gap, the more additives are in it. And I would never use a "semi-synthetic". There are no regulations on making a semi-synthetic oil. A manufacturer can use as little as 10% synthetic. Most( I hope) use more. I know BRP uses semi from the factory. But, I would switch to full syn at the first service. :thumbup: Tom :trike:
Bad Dog6
New member
0W 40 VS 10W40
If you decide to go with AMSOIL here is a little more info for you. AMSOIL 0W40 4 Stroke Oil target market is Power Sports ATV's etc. It will work fine in a Spyder, but does have some draw backs. These may or may not be a concern for you.
AMSOIL 10W 40 Motorcycle Oil is what AMSOIL Tech Support recommends for the Spyder.
0W40
Pour Point -60 F
TBN 10.5
Recommended Change Interval OEM
Price (Suggested Retail) $ 8.50 a quart
10W40
Pour Point -51F
TBN 11.1
Change Interval 3 X OEM
Suggested Retail $8.90 a quart
(Total Base Number) The Ability of the Additive Package to nullify the by-products of combustion.
Pour Point is a concern for winter riding but, even in Jersey I think -51°F would cover it.
OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer's) recommended change interval.
Either will work just fine unless you are a high mileage rider then the 10W40 is a better choice.
Hope this helps.
Personally, I would stick with the 10W40 Motorcycle oil.
If you decide to go with AMSOIL here is a little more info for you. AMSOIL 0W40 4 Stroke Oil target market is Power Sports ATV's etc. It will work fine in a Spyder, but does have some draw backs. These may or may not be a concern for you.
AMSOIL 10W 40 Motorcycle Oil is what AMSOIL Tech Support recommends for the Spyder.
0W40
Pour Point -60 F
TBN 10.5
Recommended Change Interval OEM
Price (Suggested Retail) $ 8.50 a quart
10W40
Pour Point -51F
TBN 11.1
Change Interval 3 X OEM
Suggested Retail $8.90 a quart
(Total Base Number) The Ability of the Additive Package to nullify the by-products of combustion.
Pour Point is a concern for winter riding but, even in Jersey I think -51°F would cover it.
OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer's) recommended change interval.
Either will work just fine unless you are a high mileage rider then the 10W40 is a better choice.
Hope this helps.
Personally, I would stick with the 10W40 Motorcycle oil.
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