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Melted Master Cylinder 2013 RT

Your modifications

Can you tell me more about Lamont's highway pegs? Cost and installation? Thanks, halesangel13

Cruzr Joe said:
Well, had the recall done over the weekend at Bradford Marine and mine was one of the Spyders that had the melted MC, (Luckily the melting was not all the way through) the dealer replaced it in about two and a half hours and all is well, they replaced the entire master cylinder and replaced the brake fluid, the Canister was not damaged. I am one of the 2013 Owners that is enjoying the Ryde, handling etc on the 13s, I know some have had problems but i am happy with mine. The main point of this post is GET THE RECALL CHECKED AS SOON AS POSSIBLE.

Cruzr Joe
Click to expand...
 
Bob Denman said:
:shocked::hun:
Mark,
I don't think that he said this at all... He's getting his recall done A.S.A.P.; he's just not too worried about his STS catching fire. :dontknow:

We know what you and Char are going through with her bike; other folks having confidence in theirs isn't going to diminish what you've had to endure.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I'm not sure how he got that out of my message :dontknow: but let me be clear here for him and anyone else that may have read into that. Get your recall done asap!
 
Zygos said:
Are you able to share any of these heat management workings you have developed?

thank you

barry
Click to expand...

Best to contact Spyderpops and he can fill you in with what I did and he sells one of the products you'll need to block the heat in the seat area.

​
 
Lamont,
Have you heard anything spedific that BRP has looked at (or is looking at), in an attempt to improve the airflow under the bodywork on the RTs?
 
The dealership just called . . . it was the Spyder mechanic. My Spyder is done . . . he said he discovered, last night, as he was wrapping things with the recall insulation, that my charcoal canister also melted :yikes: . . . he admitted that he should of checked it last week, when he ordered the other parts :banghead:, so he pulled one off a Spyder in the showroom that was waiting to have the recall work done :clap:. . . I thanked him for doing that. I see some ryding in my near future! :yes:
 
Sounds lik you were VERY lucky

d;694967]The dealership just called . . . it was the Spyder mechanic. My Spyder is done . . . he said he discovered, last night, as he was wrapping things with the recall insulation, that my charcoal canister also melted :yikes: . . . he admitted that he should of checked it last week, when he ordered the other parts :banghead:, so he pulled one off a Spyder in the showroom that was waiting to have the recall work done :clap:. . . I thanked him for doing that. I see some ryding in my near future! :yes:[/QUOTE]



Can't help but wonder if you were one LONG ride shy of going up in flames?
 
Bob Denman said:
Oh... I thought that was just an oil cooler... :shocked: I didn't know if it would be as affected by tinkering with the airflow...
Okay... Let's break out a JC Whitney catalog, and pick out a hood scoop! ;) Something that can be mounted underneath the bike's belly to pull some fresh air upward into the bowels of the beast...
I'm not about adding fans; electrical power is at a premium, and I just would rather keep it as simple as possible... :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Its a sure bet the highest temperatures under the panels on any spyder are happening at slow speeds, idling at stops, and mainly just after the engine is turned off (hot soak). Adding a scoop for airflow is not likely to improve things much except to move hot air out quicker at highway speeds. Hot soak is likely to also contribute to the boiling gas problem.

A simple fan to push out the hot air even when stopped is a sure solution and doesnt take a lot of engineering or pull much power. I have been running an Attwood 3" blower under the right fender on my 2012 RT for several weeks now and it makes a noticeable difference in air temp under the plastic and elininates hot soak, yet it draws barely 2.6 amps. It is located just under & behind the RT fog light and was not a big deal to install (tied in place with cable ties). I am using a manual dash switch to turn on the fan when needed, but a temperature sensitive switch could automate the process.

Sure seems to me that BRP engineers could do a better job on this than me and fully put an end to this problem.... Just Sayin....
BlowerFan2.JPG
 
cjackg said:
Its a sure bet the highest temperatures under the panels on any spyder are happening at slow speeds, idling at stops, and mainly just after the engine is turned off (hot soak). Adding a scoop for airflow is not likely to improve things much except to move hot air out quicker at highway speeds. Hot soak is likely to also contribute to the boiling gas problem.

A simple fan to push out the hot air even when stopped is a sure solution and doesnt take a lot of engineering or pull much power. I have been running an Attwood 3" blower under the right fender on my 2012 RT for several weeks now and it makes a noticeable difference in air temp under the plastic and elininates hot soak, yet it draws barely 2.6 amps. It is located just under & behind the RT fog light and was not a big deal to install (tied in place with cable ties). I am using a manual dash switch to turn on the fan when needed, but a temperature sensitive switch could automate the process.

Sure seems to me that BRP engineers could do a better job on this than me and fully put an end to this problem.... Just Sayin....
View attachment 76635
Click to expand...


I like the fan approach, because like you, I know it is happening mainly at low speeds or idling.

Ive looked at places on my STS to mount something 3" or so and just can't find a place to squeeze one without interfering w something else.

So far the best thing I can think of is a hole or two in the bottom pan(s) w a 1" thick by 3" waterproof axial fan to draw hot air down and out.

Any airflow is better than no air flow. :thumbup:
 
SNOOPY said:
I like the fan approach, because like you, I know it is happening mainly at low speeds or idling.

Ive looked at places on my STS to mount something 3" or so and just can't find a place to squeeze one without interfering w something else.

So far the best thing I can think of is a hole or two in the bottom pan(s) w a 1" thick by 3" waterproof axial fan to draw hot air down and out.

Any airflow is better than no air flow. :thumbup:
Click to expand...
This is a smaller fan I first tried to use but it had half the air flow of the Attwood and was tricky to mount due to the shape... but, it used only .30 amps! I have two of these available if anyone wants them...
DSCN1798.jpg
 
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If you reach up above the oil reservoir Near the shock there is a big open duct just what is that and where does it go?

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I was just thinking but all the Hysteria about the heat may be unfounded. It is all caused by 1 exhaust pipe and everything near it has been shielded now. Does anyone have picture of those areas from a 2012 so we can se what /if anything has changed. I know the canister and ebrake was moved but I want to see where from.
 
Magdave said:
I was just thinking but all the Hysteria about the heat may be unfounded. It is all caused by 1 exhaust pipe and everything near it has been shielded now. Does anyone have picture of those areas from a 2012 so we can se what /if anything has changed. I know the canister and ebrake was moved but I want to see where from.
Click to expand...

I would say that the heat issue still exists. All the recall did was protect the master cylinder, charcoal canister, and brake cable from that heat. The solution is airflow that moves the heat out. When I get my Spyder back, tomorrow, I am getting the Attwood fan, a length of duct, and trying to find a way to vent that space . . . perhaps items in the glove box will stop overheating and gas will stop boiling if that heat is vented out.
 
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