• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

NOT happy with my dealer service...

I never had an issue with my mechanics. Mine was with having to WAIT for parts.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
 
missouriboy said:
Perhaps it's because these fluids die with time instead of miles? I know some coolants gel with time and stop flowing; I've had that happen in a car.

But I've never heard of brake fluid replacement before... even with automotive brake jobs they just bleed the lines and add new fluid as needed. However, if it's to maintain the integrity of the Nanny's ABS and especially VSS then we shouldn't question it. Does anyone know? They should just tell us! Intelligent minds would be satisfied with reasonable explanations.

And "adjust the valves?" What, you mean the Rotax doesn't even have hydraulic lifters? (Hmmmm, moboy sez to self... maybe that's why it's possible to red-line that baby at 9000 rpm...? Check!)
Click to expand...

Brake fluid should indeed be replaced every 2-3 years. It's hygroscopic, it readily absorbs moisture. If enough water is absorbed in the fluid the water can boil when the brakes get hot. Boiling creates gas and gas is compressible so in a worst case scenario you could experience significantly impaired braking. So if you don't change the brake fluid you are effectively reducing its boiling temperature every year.
01245.JPG
 
Double Trouble said:
Both of our RT's had rears replaced and the price for the tire was $138. Labor was a little high because they had to R&R the trailer hitches and replace rear pads.. still got out of there for under $200. Sometimes I think dealers use dartboard pricing!
Click to expand...

Wow...for my rear tire it was $200 for tire 2 x $110/hour + ride on balance = $500!
 
Wow....it costs more to service these spyders in some sections of the country than it does a Lamborghini..... :shocked:
 
This whole service deal preys on fear. Changing the coolant and brake fluid at 14,000 miles is insane. How the hell is any of this maintenance necessary on a spyder but not a car? If your dealer wanted you to change brake fluid or antifreeze in your car at 60,000 miles you'd laugh at him and walk away so what's so magical about the spyder? The engine isn't overheating right? So the coolant must be doing it's job right? The brakes work so the brake fluid must still be in there and working properly. There is no way in hell that the brake fluid is going to solidify and quit flowing IF it magically turns to **** it will only make your calipers hang up and not release fully. I'm probably going to take my $1,000+ and put it into a spyder longblock fund and roll the dice if i ever get to 14,000 miles. If you pay the labor on the brake bleed procedure tell the dealership to spend the money on a power bleeder and a class on how to use it :banghead:
 
ARCTIC said:
This whole service deal preys on fear. Changing the coolant and brake fluid at 14,000 miles is insane. How the hell is any of this maintenance necessary on a spyder but not a car? If your dealer wanted you to change brake fluid or antifreeze in your car at 60,000 miles you'd laugh at him and walk away so what's so magical about the spyder? The engine isn't overheating right? So the coolant must be doing it's job right? The brakes work so the brake fluid must still be in there and working properly. There is no way in hell that the brake fluid is going to solidify and quit flowing IF it magically turns to **** it will only make your calipers hang up and not release fully. I'm probably going to take my $1,000+ and put it into a spyder longblock fund and roll the dice if i ever get to 14,000 miles. If you pay the labor on the brake bleed procedure tell the dealership to spend the money on a power bleeder and a class on how to use it :banghead:
Click to expand...


:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: :chill: :joke:
 
On my Goldwing the change all brake/clutch fluid is at 12,000 miles. The fluid degrades from the heat, I assume that brakes on bikes might get a bit hotter but that is an assumption only. I have 150,000 miles on the brake fluid in my Chevy Z71 so I know where your coming from...

JT
 
ARCTIC,
I kind of get where you're coming from; but if you think of the maintenance as a way to prevent these issues from popping up... :thumbup:
You really don't want to wait until the bike is along the road and peeing coolant, before you think about changing it... :shocked:
 
Bob Denman said:
ARCTIC,
I kind of get where you're coming from; but if you think of the maintenance as a way to prevent these issues from popping up... :thumbup:
You really don't want to wait until the bike is along the road and peeing coolant, before you think about changing it... :shocked:
Click to expand...

I bet if i pulled my $1,000 out of my pocket that i didn't spend on maintenance I could find a nice ride for me and my spyder :roflblack::roflblack:
 
ARCTIC said:
... The brakes work so the brake fluid must still be in there and working properly. There is no way in hell that the brake fluid is going to solidify and quit flowing IF it magically turns to **** it will only make your calipers hang up and not release fully...
Click to expand...

I don't know if you read my post above but the main concern with aging brake fluid is condensation absorption. If your brake fluid contains even a small amount of water it significantly lowers the boiling point of the fluid. You will have no idea your brake fluid is contaminated, the only way to know is to have it tested (you can do this yourself with test strips). It will continue to work fine until one day when your brakes overheat as you are descending a steep grade you will suddenly loose all braking. This is because the water in the fluid will begin to boil, this will in turn create gas in the brake lines. Unlike fluid, gas is easily compressible so when you step on the brakes instead of activating the brake cylinders all you'll be doing is compressing the gas in the lines (i.e. no brakes). This is a very common cause of brake failure and responsible for many accidents each year. Virtually all vehicle manufacturers recommend periodic brake fluid changes for this reason.

I detest dealer ripoffs and unnecessary work being done for profit but brake fluid changes should not be included in this category. Your brakes are your life, you need to do everything you can to know they'll always be there for you.
 
One thing I do agree on is that your antifreeze is only good for about 5-6 years and then it should be replaced because it does degrade over time. But, that being said. Only the '08 Spyders out there are that old and most will have way more mileage than 14k. As for the brakes, unless you do some really hard braking all the time I would wait for at least 4-5 years before you do a brake flush. Spend the money for a good bleeder kit and do it yourself or find a buddy to help you with it. It is not a hard thing to do. :thumbup:
 
$99.00/hr for labor??!! :yikes: Bleep me! So.........................when they told you it was a thousand bucks, did you throw your hands up, shout "My wallet's in my pocket, just take it, and don't hurt me!" :joke: Gotta go over to my dealership, next Tuesday to get my R shock replaced under warranty.........................I'll try to remember to scope out what their hourly rate is....................just in case I ever need non warranty work. Sheesh!!
 
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