My drive belt is nearly against the flange on both the front and rear sprockets

[ARCTIC]

I was looking at the belt alignment on the rear sprocket and it was nearly rubbing on the internal flange. I loosened the rear axle nut and adjusted it so it was off of the flange on the rear drive wheel and it took probably a turn and a half on the muffler side adjuster screw. :yikes: So then decided to check to make sure it wasn't too close on the front and discovered that it's up against the flange on the front drive sprocket. Is my belt fawked? Is there something else that could cause this or another adjustment that I'm not considering like a spacer needs inserted to offset the rear pulley??? Not sure on this one. Thanks again for the help in advance!

Brian.

 

[ARCTIC]

I have the rearend jacked up and am running it between adjustments. This is about the best I can get it from turning the one muffler side adjuster. I guess just to be clear I haven't been tightening the axle nut each time to check alignemtn. Maybe I need to tighten the axle nut up??

 

[spyryder]

The belt is SUPPOSED to be almost touching the rear flange.

 

[billybovine]

What"s the problem

It looks good to me.

 

[ARCTIC]

The belt is SUPPOSED to be almost touching the rear flange.

The book says to maintain at least a 1mm gap between the belt and the flange on the rear wheel. Maybe I shouldn't be screwing with it? Too much rainy weather.

 

[Blue Star]

The book says to maintain at least a 1mm gap between the belt and the flange on the rear wheel. Maybe I shouldn't be screwing with it? Too much rainy weather.

Sorry to say, I am sure those that know more will confirm, but you might have already messed up your belt tension by turning those bolts :banghead:

 

[billybovine]

The book says to maintain at least a 1mm gap between the belt and the flange on the rear wheel. Maybe I shouldn't be screwing with it? Too much rainy weather.

The spec must have changed because the page I posted is from the 2013 operator guide it states 0.5 mm 0.02 inch

 

[ARCTIC]

Sorry to say, I am sure those that know more will confirm, but you might have already messed up your belt tension by turning those bolts :banghead:

Should be fine?? pps: I only have adjusted the right (muffler side) so as long as I get it back to nearly tight against the flange. I should be good?? Never turned the left side so the distance should be the same but the angle is different.

The spec must have changed because the page I posted is from the 2013 operator guide it states 0.5 mm 0.02 inch

That kinda almost really pisses me off because I was probably at that spec (yours) before I started adjusting it. My owners manual says minimum of 1mm or 1/32". Thought it would be easy after reading a few threads on this forum.

 

[BajaRon]

I have the rearend jacked up and am running it between adjustments. This is about the best I can get it from turning the one muffler side adjuster. I guess just to be clear I haven't been tightening the axle nut each time to check alignemtn. Maybe I need to tighten the axle nut up??

View attachment 67599View attachment 67600

Tightening the axle nut will usually change belt tension and alignment on the pullies just a bit. So be sure to check everything again after you get the axle nut to 96 ft. lbs. (as per the manual).

 

[ARCTIC]

Sorry to say, I am sure those that know more will confirm, but you might have already messed up your belt tension by turning those bolts :banghead:

The spec must have changed because the page I posted is from the 2013 operator guide it states 0.5 mm 0.02 inch

Tightening the axle nut will usually change belt tension and alignment on the pullies just a bit. So be sure to check everything again after you get the axle nut to 96 ft. lbs. (as per the manual).

How sensitive are they to belt tension?

 

[NancysToy]

How sensitive are they to belt tension?

Pretty sensitive...too little and your belt slaps, vibrates, and could slip and be damaged; too much and you will eventually destroy your front sprocket, output shaft, and shaft bearing. The spec for the 2008-2012 is 450 Nm +/- 150. That is the average of three readings, taken with the dealer's sonic gauge, with the Spyder jacked up. You can do your own test with a Krikit 2 belt tension gauge, from NAPA or other suppliers. The readings don't translate, so it is best to have the dealer tension the belt, then compare the Krikit for your baseline reading. You can also do an "eyeball" measure ment by twisting the belt halfway between the sprockets, with your thumb and index finger. A quarter twistwith some effort is good, more is too loose, and less is too tight. Experience helps with this crude check.

 

[jthornton]

You can get sonic belt tension meters on Amazon for $600 - $800... wow they are proud of them.

JT

 

[ARCTIC]

Pretty sensitive...too little and your belt slaps, vibrates, and could slip and be damaged; too much and you will eventually destroy your front sprocket, output shaft, and shaft bearing. The spec for the 2008-2012 is 450 Nm +/- 150. That is the average of three readings, taken with the dealer's sonic gauge, with the Spyder jacked up. You can do your own test with a Krikit 2 belt tension gauge, from NAPA or other suppliers. The readings don't translate, so it is best to have the dealer tension the belt, then compare the Krikit for your baseline reading. You can also do an "eyeball" measure ment by twisting the belt halfway between the sprockets, with your thumb and index finger. A quarter twistwith some effort is good, more is too loose, and less is too tight. Experience helps with this crude check.

Thanks for the info. Might have to get one of those krikits . So do honestly think that by loosening the rear axle nut and only adjusting the right adjuster no more than a full turn that i altered the belt tension any meaningful amount?

 

[DrewNJ]

Thanks for the info. Might have to get one of those krikits . So do honestly think that by loosening the rear axle nut and only adjusting the right adjuster no more than a full turn that i altered the belt tension any meaningful amount?

IMHO.....no. Just watch it to make sure the belt doesn't ride the sides of either pully
And for future reference don't sweat it when you get on the highway and get some vibes or belt harmonics once in awhile either. It's normal and unlikely due to mucking with the belt a bit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ARCTIC]

Is it normal for the rear pulley to be warm after you ride? Just warmer than the rim, not hot.

 

[boborgera]

Is it normal for the rear pulley to be warm after you ride? Just warmer than the rim, not hot.

Yes, Friction from the belt. As long as you hold it with your bare hand and it's just warm....

 

[ARCTIC]

Yes, Friction from the belt. As long as you hold it with your bare hand and it's just warm....

Yep. It was 60 degrees out and i rode 15 miles and checked it immediately after I pulled in my garage for alignment (after messing with it the other day) and the pulley wasn't cool to the touch but instead like room temperature and the wheel and hub were cold

 

[Bob Ledford]

Belt tension

I am you and a whole lot newbies when it come to a drive belt. You don't have a clue as to how the thing is going to work you gain some experience the owners manual helps but does cover all the short cuts..