• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Trailer Storage

Bah, there's room in there for a trailer. Your kids don't need their bicycles! ;)

Hang the bikes on the wall, extend the overhead racks and move some boxes off the floor. Voila! Space for a trailer.
 
With Proper arranging and placement we are able to a Spyder, GW Trike, Cargo Trailer and Aspen Camping trailer in the space of my Truck which sets outside now. Nice thing about a Spyder and GW Trike my front wheel and her rear wheel work out great side by side. My wife’s car still sets inside, by the toys in a 2 car Garage.

:doorag:
 
My garage keeps getting smaller and smaller......'76 Cadallic (19'), Silverado PU, MG midget, Spyder GS, Bushtec trailer, Two riding lawnmowers, mini bike .......:banghead: :banghead: :banghead: What's a guy to do :dontknow: :lecturef_smilie:
 
Just a thought u could add a rear bumper simolar to a push bar with some castor roller wheels and make your trailer into a stand up against the wall design.My bike trailer from former two wheelers was a stand up design thet u pushed up close to the wall and out of the way pretty easy for one person.
Mike

Take something like a furniture dolly, pad all the rails and add a vertical back to lean/tie the trailer to. Then tip the trailer on end and roll it against the wall.
108973717_-piano-floor-dolly---moving-dolly---furniture-dolly---.jpg
 
I'm contemplating getting a 622 trailer. But lets say in Nevada, you are lucky to fit two cars and a bike in a three car garage. How do you all store this thing?

Arr, you have seen my trailer. What I do is push it in sideways next to the wall, and park the Spyder in front of it (the side). While not a garage my parking space is about as long as a garage.
 
Take something like a furniture dolly, pad all the rails and add a vertical back to lean/tie the trailer to. Then tip the trailer on end and roll it against the wall.
108973717_-piano-floor-dolly---moving-dolly---furniture-dolly---.jpg

In our single car garage we have most everything that is not on a shelf stacked on dollies. So basically everything that is on the ground is also on wheels. We are constantly emptying out the garage to get to something that is on the far wall. :banghead: Our neighbors must think we are nuts.
 
I was gonna try something like a folding bed into the wall idea. The problem is the rear of the trailer. I had thought about having a flat piece of plywood that I would have "wheel stops". The plywood would have hinges to another piece of plywood secured to the floor. I envisioned securing the front part to the plywood, and having some pulley system to pull the front end up and towards the wall.

The other idea was the harness with a lift. I'm not sure my joists would support.

Bottom line is that my FX-35 is sitting out in the driveway and the spyder and trailer are in it's spot.

Chris
 
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I was gonna try something like a folding bed into the wall idea. The problem is the rear of the trailer. I had thought about having a flat piece of plywood that I would have "wheel stops". The plywood would have hinges to another piece of plywood secured to the floor. I envisioned securing the front part to the plywood, and having some pulley system to pull the front end up and towards the wall.

The other idea was the harness with a lift. I'm not sure my joists would support.

Bottom line is that my FX-35 is sitting out in the driveway and the spyder and trailer are in it's sport.

Chris

neat idea. You have some plywood, hinged onto a storage cabinet on the wall. back the trailer onto the plywood. secure the trailer to it with wheel straps and something to secure the tongue. then lift it up. could even use a crank setup (like a drawbridge) to raise it up into the "cabinet" with minimal effort. Huh. this may even be low tech enough that I can build it.
 
If I had a trailer I'd fabricate a trailer tip up rack sorta like the this one that I hacked out in a couple of minutes in SolidWorks. The proportions are not correct as I don't have a trailer to measure but you get the idea. Park the trailer on the rack, lock the ball, strap the tires down and stand it up next to the wall... if someone could provide the basic measurements of one I could make a scale model.

Trailer Rack.jpg
Yes, I have a fabrication and machine shop...

Enjoy
John
 
If I had a trailer I'd fabricate a trailer tip up rack sorta like the this one that I hacked out in a couple of minutes in SolidWorks. The proportions are not correct as I don't have a trailer to measure but you get the idea. Park the trailer on the rack, lock the ball, strap the tires down and stand it up next to the wall... if someone could provide the basic measurements of one I could make a scale model.

View attachment 64192
Yes, I have a fabrication and machine shop...

Enjoy
John

That's basically what I was "trying" to describe although I did not articulate it all that well. I talked about plywood, but metal would be even better. The key though is having something that will stop the tires at a sufficient distance that the rear end of the spyder will not hit what will ultimately be the base of your set up. There would need to be a good 2' (I'm guesstimating). The other thing would be that the portion that ultimately becomes the base will need to rotate. At least I think it would.

Chris
 
That's basically what I was "trying" to describe although I did not articulate it all that well. I talked about plywood, but metal would be even better. The key though is having something that will stop the tires at a sufficient distance that the rear end of the spyder will not hit what will ultimately be the base of your set up. There would need to be a good 2' (I'm guesstimating). The other thing would be that the portion that ultimately becomes the base will need to rotate. At least I think it would.

Chris

Hooking the trailer hitch to the ball on top would set the location of the trailer on the stand. I think that you could just pick it up and let it sit on the vertical part of the trailer holder, much like you stand anything up. Strapping the axle down would prevent any movement while vertical so the trailer and the trailer holder would be as one. That photo is just a simple depiction of my idea, it would need braces where the tubing changed direction. The rear of the trailer would be in front of the rear of the stand so there is no way you can touch the rear of the trailer as you raise the stand up.

John
 
That's basically the idea with the "moving cart" - just add casters on the base and you have the ultimate trailer dolly.
 
Hooking the trailer hitch to the ball on top would set the location of the trailer on the stand. I think that you could just pick it up and let it sit on the vertical part of the trailer holder, much like you stand anything up. Strapping the axle down would prevent any movement while vertical so the trailer and the trailer holder would be as one. That photo is just a simple depiction of my idea, it would need braces where the tubing changed direction. The rear of the trailer would be in front of the rear of the stand so there is no way you can touch the rear of the trailer as you raise the stand up.

John
There is no axle, per se, on the RT-622. It uses two coil-overs on short pivot axles. Better and easier to tie down with tire straps or webs.
 
trailer rack

  • Dry Weight 250 lbs
  • Gross Trailer Weight Rating(GVWR) 400 lbs
  • Maxium weight on trailer tongue 40 lbs
  • Maximum loading capacity 150 lbs
  • Overall Length 92.5"
  • Overall Width 44.5"
  • Overall Heigth 34.6"
  • Ground Clearance 6.3"
  • Wheel Size 12 x 4 inch
  • Tire Pressure 35 psi
this is off the brp site about the trailer would need the ball to center of wheel measurement

an idea is round the pivit spot to mak the lifting of the front easer and when it stands full the weight would keep it slightly tipped back against the wall without touching

the ball attachment in the diagram would defiantly need gusseting and have some means of attaching the wheels to the bottom to keep it firmly on the rack
 
  • Dry Weight 250 lbs
  • Gross Trailer Weight Rating(GVWR) 400 lbs
  • Maxium weight on trailer tongue 40 lbs
  • Maximum loading capacity 150 lbs
  • Overall Length 92.5"
  • Overall Width 44.5"
  • Overall Heigth 34.6"
  • Ground Clearance 6.3"
  • Wheel Size 12 x 4 inch
  • Tire Pressure 35 psi
this is off the brp site about the trailer would need the ball to center of wheel measurement

an idea is round the pivit spot to mak the lifting of the front easer and when it stands full the weight would keep it slightly tipped back against the wall without touching

the ball attachment in the diagram would defiantly need gusseting and have some means of attaching the wheels to the bottom to keep it firmly on the rack

It would be close for an 8' ceiling but I think it could be made 7'9" tall and still work. The only number missing is the distance from the ball to the center of the wheels.

I think 1" x 14 gauge square tubing would be plenty heavy to hold the trailer. The model is without any bracing, but for sure some would be needed. Some eyes inline with the tires and short ratchet straps to fasten the tire to the rack would lock the trailer down.

It would be a balance between ease of lifting and stability with the radius on the corner. The bigger the radius the easier to lift and the less stable.

John
 
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