NMN risers and cable routing

[bjt]

It probably depends on who on the production line is doing the job. If there isn't a set layout, or if they don't follow it, anything goes as long as it works.

:agree:
I also think its a very bad way to do business. With all of us getting into the nuts and bolts of the Spyder and seeing these differences, it brings up the question on if they know what they are doing. Do they have experienced, knowledgeable employees putting together our Spyders? Is every employee putting the parts on in the best way possible? If that was the case, then there wouldn't be any discrepancies in how stuff is put together, routed and tied off in the Spyder. To maintain and fix quality / build issues, its easier if everyone follows a standard assembly practice. When every employee does it his or her own way or they feel like putting their part higher up in the morning and lower in the afternoon, that lends itself to poor performing machines making it out the door at BRP.

If you are only building one or two things, by all means, experiment and try out different things if you want. If you are trying to put 20, 40 or 300 of one product out the door 5 days a week, 45 + weeks a year, figure out the best way to put it together and do it that way every time.

 

[Putt-Putt]

Ya everybody said you were supposed to route the reverse cable though the riser hole. I tried and tried but even that would not work till I did a bunch of rerouting.

 

[Tonga]

I'm back. I have been busy but I still want to know if anyone cut the plastic cover over the bars to install the risers. If you look at the pics here the bars are widened by the thickness of the risers, about an inch. Someone did mention it in an earlier thread but haven't seen anything on it. My cables did not need any cable ties removed but my clutch saftey switch wire is tight. I think that if the covers were cut back about an inch that would give us the added cable relief we would need.

 

[NancysToy]

I'm back. I have been busy but I still want to know if anyone cut the plastic cover over the bars to install the risers. If you look at the pics here the bars are widened by the thickness of the risers, about an inch. Someone did mention it in an earlier thread but haven't seen anything on it. My cables did not need any cable ties removed but my clutch saftey switch wire is tight. I think that if the covers were cut back about an inch that would give us the added cable relief we would need.

I think you will be the first if you try it. Part of the purpose for this type of riser is to retain the stock cover. On the other hand, given the construction of the cover, I think more than just cutting it would be necessary. It will lose its strength and support if you cut off the vertical edge. You would have to find a way to glue the original edge back in, or fabricate a new one.
-Scotty

 

[Tonga]

I haven't taken a good look at the plastic cover but think that if 3/4 of an inch was cut off and I mean a clean cut then the riser up against it it would look OK and the plastic piece at the end there doesn't add any strength to the rest of the shroud. The bars are deffinently wider because the cluthch lever is attached to the OEM bar right were the riser attaches so that the bar then moves outward just the amount of thickness of the riser. That does stretch the cables a bit and it does make one stretch further in extreme turns. I must say though that the NMN risers are the best thing I have added to my Spyder.

 

[Putt-Putt]

Although there was the rerouting and all the time it took me. I really like them. If the cables were a little longer I would position them back towards the rider more.

 

[spyderbitten]

Although there was the rerouting and all the time it took me. I really like them. If the cables were a little longer I would position them back towards the rider more.

I agree.

 

[Magic Man]

My cables did not need any cable ties removed but my clutch saftey switch wire is tight. I think that if the covers were cut back about an inch that would give us the added cable relief we would need.

Ask Lamont about this. I know he found a hidden cable tie when he was doing his friend Ron's kit and once it was cut he had tons of extra length in the clutch safety switch wire.

MM

 

[Tonga]

Thanks for that Magic Man, I love my risers, best thing on my Spyder !!

 

[Lamonster]

Ask Lamont about this. I know he found a hidden cable tie when he was doing his friend Ron's kit and once it was cut he had tons of extra length in the clutch safety switch wire.

MM

 

[SpyderDog65]

why cant the wires be routed through the handlebars ? that looks lame with them hanging out exposed

 

[NancysToy]

why cant the wires be routed through the handlebars ? that looks lame with them hanging out exposed

The Spyder has a different method of attaching the handle bars than motorcycles do. It has a steering shaft, and single attachment yoke, instead of two yokes spaced several inches apart. As a result, any holes drilled for wires to exit the bars would be outside the bolted area, and very near the attachment point. This makes a potential weak point, and was likely thought to be unsafe.
-Scotty

 

[Tonga]

Thanks. A picture is worth a thousand words.

 

[adohring]

Cable slack and the rubber cowl...

Hey all,

So I attempted my NMN 3 inch riser install yesterday. Definitely had to reroute the trunk cable to get it out of the way of the ones on the clutch side. Absolutely needed to cut the zip tie shown in Lamonsters photo otherwise there was just not enough slack even with only the 3 inch risers and no BRP 1 incher.

So after I got everything installed and all my cables looked good at full lock in both directions, I went ahead and put the rubber cowl back in. That seems to cause the cables to pull much tigher than without it. Did anyone else experience this? They still seem to be ok, but I wasnt sure if this was something I needed to worry about.

Thanks in advance.
Arjay