• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Almost torched the bike! Huge leak in upper right side.

mooneych

mooneych

New member
It all started with a coolant leak; a pinprick that shot coolant out onto the front cylinder. Dealership needed to verify to process warranty action. I decided to help by removing all forward tupperware to show them the reservoir leak upon my arrival.

While pulling out of the garage for my hour ride, I noticed a strong fuel order and as I pulled out into the sunshine, a grey cloud rose to my right. I shut the ignition and scrambled off the bike. There is a shiny metal canister next to the right knee that appears to be a fuel filter. Both ends seem to be crimped in the middle. Fuel pours out the middle when the system is pressurized.

If I hadn't had the tupperware removed at the time, who knows what would have happened. :yikes::yikes::yikes:

Now I'm waiting to see what the dealership has to say.

I recall seeing an RS last year that had been torched, and it seemed the fire had originated in the same area. Does anyone have any news on this issue? Are there any questions I should be asking that are not readily apparent?
 
There have been some RS fires reported on here over the last couple years. Not recently, that I can remember though. I do not believe they ever came to an actual conclusion regarding product liability.

Others will have more complete information.

:popcorn::popcorn:
 
That is, indeed, your fuel filter. Glad you noticed the problem before it toasted your marshmallows. Simple fix, the dealer should be able to handle it, or you can do it yourself if you have the proper crimping pliers for the full-seal Oetiker clamps.
 
Scotty,
Could you please give us a little back of background on "Proper Crimpling Pliers" and "full-Seal Oetiker Clamps"?
You lost me... :shocked:
But that ain't a tough chore to accomplish anyway! ;)
 
Bob Denman said:
Scotty,
Could you please give us a little back of background on "Proper Crimpling Pliers" and "full-Seal Oetiker Clamps"?
You lost me... :shocked:
But that ain't a tough chore to accomplish anyway! ;)
Click to expand...
The standard hose clamps on most of the Spyder are Oetiker clamps. They are a complete circle, with a raised section that is pinched together to tighten the clamp. They are often used on the production line, because they can be installed by machines, but there are other advantages. There is a wide variety of specific applications, but they come in two basic types. One type is a basic circle, with a raised section to crimp and clamp. That section does not press tightly against the hose. The other type has an additional strap across the clamp area, allowing full contact with the hose. That is a Full-contact Oetiker. The crimping priers are much like tile nippers. They have jaws that are beveled, allowing them to fit in the small recess in the raised section, and apply even pressure across the clamping area, crimping the raised section uniformly and quite tightly if the correct size clamp is used. The clamps come in small increments of sizes, because there is not a large reduction in diameter when they are crimped. Here endeth the lesson...
 
NancysToy said:
The standard hose clamps on most of the Spyder are Oetiker clamps. They are a complete circle, with a raised section that is pinched together to tighten the clamp. They are often used on the production line, because they can be installed by machines, but there are other advantages. There is a wide variety of specific applications, but they come in two basic types. One type is a basic circle, with a raised section to crimp and clamp. That section does not press tightly against the hose. The other type has an additional strap across the clamp area, allowing full contact with the hose. That is a Full-contact Oetiker. The crimping priers are much like tile nippers. They have jaws that are beveled, allowing them to fit in the small recess in the raised section, and apply even pressure across the clamping area, crimping the raised section uniformly and quite tightly if the correct size clamp is used. The clamps come in small increments of sizes, because there is not a large reduction in diameter when they are crimped. Here endeth the lesson...
Click to expand...

th


;)
 
Just asking but WHY would you stay with this type of clamp instead of changing them out as they fail to worm gear screw type clamps??? :hun::dontknow:nojoke
 
IGETAROUND said:
Just asking but WHY would you stay with this type of clamp instead of changing them out as they fail to worm gear screw type clamps??? :hun::dontknow:nojoke
Click to expand...

Worm screw clamps do not put even pressure on the hose. On a fuel line, that can lead to dangerous leaks.

BTW, thak you AtaDude for the picture. It was worth 1,000 words! :clap:
 
It's been a long afternoon.

Drove down to the dealer (they had a fuel filter in stock), and took it home. The Oetiker clamps were a PITA to remove. I replaced the Oetiker's with alligator clamps, and discovered a small leak on the tank-side of the filter. I had to cut off about 1/8" of the hose. Re-installation checks were good.

Question Scotty: Do you think I should have the dealer change the clamps tomorrow again for the Oetiker's?

As far as the coolant leak, I saw the new re-enforced tank tonight and they will install it tomorrow, as I wait.

Kudos to Coleman PowerSports in Woodbridge!!
 
Scotty,
I "thanketh" you for the lesson... :clap: :thumbup:
Dude,
GREAT picture that brought all of the lesson into focus! :2thumbs:

Although that dang little bug STILL makes me itchy! :shocked: :roflblack:
 
mooneych said:
Drove down to the dealer (they had a fuel filter in stock), and took it home. The Oetiker clamps were a PITA to remove. I replaced the Oetiker's with alligator clamps, and discovered a small leak on the tank-side of the filter. I had to cut off about 1/8" of the hose. Re-installation checks were good.

Question Scotty: Do you think I should have the dealer change the clamps tomorrow again for the Oetiker's?

As far as the coolant leak, I saw the new re-enforced tank tonight and they will install it tomorrow, as I wait.

Kudos to Coleman PowerSports in Woodbridge!!
Click to expand...
The alligator (pinch) clamps do pretty well on suction lines, but as you have seen, they don't necessarily like pressurized systems...especially if they are just a smidgen too big for the hose. Worm clamps are safer, but can leak at the rigid mechanism if the clamp isn't closely sized to the hose. Oetiker clamps also need to be very carefully sized, but the BRP fuel filter comes with them. They do need to have the correct type of pliers for tightening them. Trying to substitute diagonal pliers (side-cutters) or something similar does not put even pressure on the crimp, and can lead to huge problems, including clamp failure. That's not so good on a fuel system! If I didn't have access to the correct pliers or some (dull) tile nippers, I'd probably go with some mini worm clamps, or back up the pinch clamps with worm clamps.
 
Worm clamps, or more commonly refered to as hose clamps, do work well on some hoses. The main issue is they tend to get over tightened forcing the rubber out through the screw holes. They can also be placed too far back on the hose, allowing the hose end to flare out leading to a leak. They will loosen over time from heating and cooling. As with any clamp, proper sizing, placement and torquing is the key to a leak free hose. Best to stay with the OEM, IMHO.
 
If your going to do fuel system repairs yourself buy the correct Oetiker tool and the clamps. IMHO using worm, hose, pinch clamps of any kind on a fuel injection system is not a good idea. Oetiker clamps are kind of a pain initially, but once you've used them a few times it's really no big deal.

It also gives you a good reason to buy and add a new tool to the toolbox! ;)
 
I have just discovered a couple of days ago when I got my Spyder out to ryde after it sat in the garage for several weeks there was a wide stain on the concrete. I put cardboard under it and today when I pulled it I could tell some type of fluid leaked onto the cardboard. I put it back under and pulled it about 5-10 minutes later and had kind of a green colored droplets on it. Is this similar to what yours was doing?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
Leak comes and goes? Shop did not find it. Help???
Replies
15
Views
524
knklehd1
K
ricford
Any ideas on a repair/fix for a Suspension Air Bag Leak?
Replies
3
Views
699
flash2002
flash2002
iSilentP
Left headlight stopped working, but the Right headlight is still working - any suggestions on what to look at/try?
Replies
19
Views
845
iSilentP
iSilentP
tntnj
Checked the oil before starting the bike and the dipstick was dry
Replies
5
Views
809
JayBros
JayBros
Snoking1127
Gold Canyon Az to Lake Stevens, Wa
2
Replies
31
Views
5K
Snoking1127
Snoking1127
Back
Top