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Tires

No, just the cost of buying them. Mounting and balancing should be the same cost, regardless of the make. If you find a place that will install for less, just take the OEM to them. Of course if you can find another manufacturer that has the same specifications on thier tires, that would be an option as well. Probably still the same cost to install though.
 
TIRES

No, just the cost of buying them. Mounting and balancing should be the same cost, regardless of the make. If you find a place that will install for less, just take the OEM to them. Of course if you can find another manufacturer that has the same specifications on thier tires, that would be an option as well. Probably still the same cost to install though.

I spent a Total Of $ 277 for my three car tires with the mounting and balancing. One Kumho and two Falken's, regular high speed balance.......Mike....:thumbup:
 
"best" is a relative term..Best for longevity? Best for traction,? Best for handling? Best for programing with the VSS? I personally think that the Kenda Tire is clearly different than the others (mostly because of the two ply sidewall, giving more "roll"). Add to that, BRP is not gouging us with the price of tires that the Spyder is engineered to use. Maybe Kenda was the only manufacturer who would spec a product for them. Some of the "Big guys" would probably balk at them for asking, especially when they were just startin gthe line in 2008 with a limited quantity.

I guess you can figure out that for less than $200 on the rear and under $100 each for the front, I'll buy the OEM. Tires are the only part of the Spyder nthat keep me connected to the road.

of course this is just my opinion, we are all free to do what we want. It's your choice, only MY opinion

Actually the Kenda tire is 'different' than the others but not because of the 2 ply sidewall. All the tires that we are discussing are 2 ply sidewall. The difference is in the tread area where the Kenda is 2 ply and the others are all 4 ply. 4 ply in the tread keeps the tread area flatter at speed giving you more contact area.

Centrifugal force at speed tends to cause a tire to bulge in the middle of the tread. More plies in the tread area tend to resist this force keeping the entire tread area in contact with the ground. If your Kenda tire wears faster in the middle it could be over inflation, or it could be a lot of high speed riding.
 
Actually the Kenda tire is 'different' than the others but not because of the 2 ply sidewall. All the tires that we are discussing are 2 ply sidewall. The difference is in the tread area where the Kenda is 2 ply and the others are all 4 ply. 4 ply in the tread keeps the tread area flatter at speed giving you more contact area.

Centrifugal force at speed tends to cause a tire to bulge in the middle of the tread. More plies in the tread area tend to resist this force keeping the entire tread area in contact with the ground. If your Kenda tire wears faster in the middle it could be over inflation, or it could be a lot of high speed riding.

My tires seem to wear evenly...BUT if the other tires are the same specification as the Kendas as for size and sidewall & footprint, then there should be no problem switching over. That is what is great about this forum, we can all be educated by others experience. :)
 
My tires seem to wear evenly...BUT if the other tires are the same specification as the Kendas as for size and sidewall & footprint, then there should be no problem switching over. That is what is great about this forum, we can all be educated by others experience. :)
You should also consider wet and dry traction, and speed rating.
 
KENDA TIRES

Mike, how do the car tires you're running compare (speaking of rating here) to the Kenda's?

The company that makes the Kenda tire doesn't seem to want to give out to many relevant performance facts about their product, other than we made it...BRP says you must buy it....that's all ......I would have to dig around to find the exact info on my tires....in essence their speed rating is above 120 mph , very good traction dry and wet, and should last 45,000 miles + on a car that weighs 3500 lbs.....if you want the exact specs ....go to discount tires direct.com and look at the Kumho Ecsta and the Falken Ziex 512......and I am very Happy with all of them .....Mike....:thumbup:
 
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You should also consider wet and dry traction, and speed rating.

:agree: with wet traction being a primary concern.

I don't want anyone to think I am saying the OEM BRP tire is not a good, viable option. Just that there are probably better choices (though few) out there that can be considered without warrany or other issues. The manufacturer give us 1 option, I like to consider all of my options and chose based on reasonable criteria.
 
In the past I heard that the Kumos are getting much better milage than stock as they are 4 ply tread and resist bulging for a more even wear pattern. The Falkens are designed for left or right application but acoording to what others have posted they do not work so well on the back tire. I am shopping for tires now and money is not the object. I want a tire that will equal the stock but wear evenly for increased milage between replacement, thoughts? My stock tire is worn out in the center at 10K. I will push it to 12 but I can already feel it loose grip on wet roads now.
 
In the past I heard that the Kumos are getting much better milage than stock as they are 4 ply tread and resist bulging for a more even wear pattern. The Falkens are designed for left or right application but acoording to what others have posted they do not work so well on the back tire. I am shopping for tires now and money is not the object. I want a tire that will equal the stock but wear evenly for increased milage between replacement, thoughts? My stock tire is worn out in the center at 10K. I will push it to 12 but I can already feel it loose grip on wet roads now.
Where are you seeing negative reports on the Falken for the rear? In my research everybody seemed quite positive.
 
Life has warranty implications. I don't ride to protect the warranty, I have the warranty to protect the ride.

If I put a tire on that has better wear, better dry traction, better wet traction and greater safety (4 ply tread vs. 2 ply tread) and otherwise meets BRP's minimum requirements, then they have to prove that it was the tire that caused the damage.

Some dealerships throw down the (It's not stock!:yikes: Danger! Will Robinson:yikes:) card every time you get a bolt turned. Why? Because it is very effective.

I'm reading the discussion with interest...haven't even bought a :ani29: yet and already know that I will get into it with the dealership....
 
CAR TIRE

Is there a certain type of oil you should use if you run a car tire on a motorcycle Ohh wait the spyder is not a motorcycle... LOL
as for me I run car tires on my Valk,VTX1300 and my Goldwing, sold my HD could not find the right car tire for it. love this forum
now if I can just find those gas pills to improve the spyder gas mileage, :clap::banghead:
 
car tyres

What is the problem with car tyres? As much as I like my RS SM I know it is not a motorcycle. I have been riding daily since 1968. Hondas, Yamahas, Suzukis, Kawasakis, BMW and even a Moto Martin. I have had 2 Goldwing sidecar outfits and an affair with an XS1100 outfit. In this time I have seen wobbly wire wheels with Avon SMs, Dunlop trigonics and all other trends. Any story that the Spyder needs motorcycle tyres is written by Hans Christian Anderson. The Spyder, she don`t lean!!! The Kenda, she don' t grip. If you want mileage fine. Stick with the Kenda. If you want grip so you just don't sit there spinning and going nowhere in a hurry look for another brand.
 
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