Oil Change instruction from BRP including Torque information !

[Joel]

Hello SpyderLovers.

I thought that new spyder owners like me might appreciate this document:
http://xpslubricants.com/PDF/SP-OILCHANGEKIT_INSTR_en.pdf

It is a step by step document on oil changes and also includes Torque to be used.

 

[warp10]

Good info, thanks :clap::clap:

 

[gypsy_100]

Thanks. Always like the detailed torque specs.

 

[Joel]

I am glad this information was useful.

 

[ARCTIC]

Doesn't every kit come with them?
One thing it doesn't address is that the drain plugs are 6mm Allen and the screws that hold the filter covers are 5mm Allen.

 

[3whlLefty]

My lower side panel is very hard to remove where it hooks under the upper side panel. When both need to be removed it's a lot easier to do the upper one first making the lower one free to come off. Same is true in reverse order when replacing them.

Just a little trick I've learned.

I just did my first by owner oil change. The crankcase oil plug was very tight and when it broke loose the 6mm allen socket was wedged in so tight that I couldn't remove it even with a pliers. I left it alone and it loosened up when during the tightening. A good argument for getting the hex headed plugs for the next oil change. I've rounded off an allen head bolt on the caliper of a Goldwing. It was also recessed in the cast iron caliper. Not a fun project!!

 

[LorneD]

Stripped allen head bolt

Roughly twenty years ago my son was removing the cylinder head on his car. He rounded out an allen bolt. He bought a new bolt and using a drill bit the same size as the shank he drilled (removed) the stripped head.

He then lifted the head from the motor and turned the (now) stud out by hand. The bolt was already damaged, so drilling it was no loss. Also the stripped head provides a handy guide for the drill bit. He only had to drill deep enough to remove the damaged head.

 

[Rayelljay]

That's a good one for the notebook....

 

[gypsy_100]

Doesn't every kit come with them?

Never bought the "kit". Don't use BRP oil.

 

[dliszews]

Glad I read this and noticed that the XPS oil is a semi-synthetic. Will be swapping out at first change to Royal Purple or Amsoil. Past experience has shown that both have helped the wet clutch.

 

[gypsy_100]

Glad I read this and noticed that the XPS oil is a semi-synthetic. Will be swapping out at first change to Royal Purple or Amsoil. Past experience has shown that both have helped the wet clutch.

Just for the record, XPS is available in either semi-synthetic or full synthetic. From Joel's instruction sheet, it appears the "kit" contains the semi version. If you buy it off the shelf, the full synthetic is in the yellow bottle and the semi is in the dark bottle. If the dealer did your last change, you'll have to ask or look at your receipt to see what he used. My dealer uses only the full synthetic XPS. Obviously he's not using the "kits" but rather the individual parts, the same way I buy them. Having said all that, I don't use either XPS product. Amsoil for me but that's a personal choice.

 

[ARCTIC]

IIRC, you're not supposed to use full synthetic with a SE5 tranny

 

[gypsy_100]

IIRC, you're not supposed to use full synthetic with a SE5 tranny

Here's from the manual: Use the XPS SYNTHETIC BLEND OIL(SUMMER GRADE) (P/N 293 600 121)
or a 5W 40 semi-synthetic (minimum)
or synthetic motorcycle oil meeting
the requirements for API service SL,
SJ, SH or SG classification.

Synthetic is fine. Just use one that is designed for motorcycles, not automobiles. And the tranny is the same tranny. Just the addition of the centrifugal clutch and all the gizmos to make it shift "automatically".

 

[StanProff]

That's a lot of pages for an oil change, I use the Lamont method. I think it is about 1.5 pages. The torque specs are great to have. Thanks.

 

[Bob Denman]

Well I'm all about the information! :thumbup: Thanks for bringing this one up for our viewing! :firstplace: