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Interesting cluster of problems

packbuckbrew

New member
I ride a 2010 RTS with all the mods except a confetti cannon. I have been tweaking my new Elkas and got a DPS and engine code to limp mode. Shut off the bike, restarted and all was ok. I had never had these codes in 12k miles before this. Then I notice that my cruise will not engage. Another limp mode. I stop and notice that the brake light is staying on after the bike is off. You got it. The brake lever was not going back to the top so it was as if I was riding the brake. Anyway. Once I rode and did an "upshift" on the brake pedal after any braking, all was good. Now I had this thing completely apart this winter, including removing the brake lever/assembly and right foot peg assembly for powder coating. Any thoughts on trouble shooting why the brake lever is not returning to the "up" and off position? I would say that it is coming up 1/2" short of being fully "up". Help?
 
Could something be binding up and preventing the pedal from returning to rest? I'd get the bike in the air and take a closer look at what does or doesn't move, and why in the braking system...
Good luck! Please let us know what you find! :thumbup:
 
Look for binding, bent linkage levers or rods, or any binding or interference. Lubricate the pivot point if you can. Check for the integrity and correct position for any return spring.
 
Brake pedal too tight?

Try loosening the brake pedal bolt a half turn until it stops holding the brake pedal down. This is something that I had to deal with when I put the VTC boards on. When disconnected from linkage you want the brake pedal to fall easily and freely down, the plan is to tighten up the bolt until it is just tight enough to hold it in place then then loosen the bolt until the brake pedal falls freely then reconnect the linkage and see if that works.
 
If you had the foot peddle support bracket off, make sure that push rod for the master cylinder didn't get bent or out of adjustment. know when I put the chrome bracket on it was a pain in the biscuit getting that push rod in the wright position . :dontknow:
 
And the answer is:

Push rod was out of adjustment, not sure how that happened, but fixed it and now all is good. Thanks spyder bros for all the suggestions and help!
 
Another reason I Love this Site - Worth its members collective weight in Rhino Horn

:firstplace::bowdown::firstplace:
 
And the answer is:

Push rod was out of adjustment, not sure how that happened, but fixed it and now all is good. Thanks spyder bros for all the suggestions and help!

:clap: :clap::clap:So glad you came back and gave us the final answer!!! I agree with CyncySpyder too!:yes:
 
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