Just came in from a ride and smelled gas after a couple of minutes. I looked under my RT and there was a couple of drops of something that had dripped onto the garage floor. It was gas. There is a tube on the right side coming through the side frame just behind the rad. Got any ideas were it is coming from?
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Drops of Gas?
- Thread starter Tonga
- Start date
fastfraser
Blazing Member
Seems to be a hit or miss thing as I squeeze every last drop possible into my tank before a ride .:dontknow:
:agree: I also nursed in every last drop, and i do that with all my Trikes, and bikes and i never had a gas drip'
But that doesn't mean it isn't happening to some.:dontknow:
And putting only 5 gal in a 6 gal tank' that doesn't seem right either just to stop gas from dripping.
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Your right about hit and miss as I always fill it the same way just to go farther before a fill up. Guess BRP needs to make a larger multi cylinder engine that will burn less gas or am I dreaming again or is this a wishfull dream??
Bob Denman
New member
2 Cruysyn
New member
Canisterectomy is all well and good but has anyone considered the amount of heat the fuel tank is subjected to with the exhaust in close proximity to it and nothing done by BRP to keep the heat in until it exits the exhaust?
My last ride: 1/4 tank (+/-) after a ride in traffic, vapors forcefully exiting the vent tube, fuel drops on the floor. Bet I'll have less fuel showing on the gauge next time I start it. I'm beginning to wonder if my legs are wrapped around a still! No wonder the mileage sucks. I wonder how much I'm boiling off? Exhaust wrap coming soon!
My last ride: 1/4 tank (+/-) after a ride in traffic, vapors forcefully exiting the vent tube, fuel drops on the floor. Bet I'll have less fuel showing on the gauge next time I start it. I'm beginning to wonder if my legs are wrapped around a still! No wonder the mileage sucks. I wonder how much I'm boiling off? Exhaust wrap coming soon!
SpydherLuv
New member
I've been told this would not occur if you use the kill switch. I always use the kill switch on my RT-S and have never had an issue with gas fume odors. And when I fill the tank, normally fill it to the point where I can see, and probably touch, the fuel if I put my finger in the tank. Pardon my lack of technical-speak, but by using the kill switch, one of the system shut-down steps is to evacuate that fuel; whereas, if you simply turn the key off, the system is not able to go thru that sequence (at least, that is the way I understood it when it was explained to me).
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
I can find no supporting reason for the explanation you were given. The sequence appears to be identical for a key switch or kill switch shutoff. While I am a staunch advocate of using the kill switch each and every time you shut off a motorcycle engine, doing so makes no difference as to gas fumes on a Spyder. I use the kill switch religeously, but I do get occasional gas fumes, especially when the tank is low and the Spyder is hot. As was said, it is hit and miss...and depends on several things, including climate, how full you fill the tank, the speed that you fill the tank, how hot the Spyder is, and even the weather.
SpydherLuv
New member
Interesting.....I guess I'm just one of the lucky ones then. 
2 Cruysyn
New member
Update
Another leisure ride around town today. Weather was just too nice to let it get away. Late lunch with my wife. No heavy traffic, ambient temperature in the mid 50's.
Yet another ride punctuated with the smell of fuel. Parked the Spyder and observed drops of fuel (again) on the garage floor so this time I decided to pop the cap on the tank. I can now add my observation to that of others who have heard the fuel in their tank, about half a tank in my case, boiling. Ever boiled water for pasta or hard boiled eggs? Then you know what it sounded like.
Forget the exhaust wrap I mentioned earlier. I'm going with ceramic. My observations after doing so later.
Another leisure ride around town today. Weather was just too nice to let it get away. Late lunch with my wife. No heavy traffic, ambient temperature in the mid 50's.
Yet another ride punctuated with the smell of fuel. Parked the Spyder and observed drops of fuel (again) on the garage floor so this time I decided to pop the cap on the tank. I can now add my observation to that of others who have heard the fuel in their tank, about half a tank in my case, boiling. Ever boiled water for pasta or hard boiled eggs? Then you know what it sounded like.
Forget the exhaust wrap I mentioned earlier. I'm going with ceramic. My observations after doing so later.
TuckMiddle
New member
Smell of gas and 2 inch round spots
Jees, I've posted my similar problems a few times, but everything I do seems to be wrong. I do not overfill, but I have run it almost dry, per the light and no bars on the LED main screen. Did that this AM. Gassed up with BP regular, at $3.80 - about 6 cents more than the next station I came too - but I'm over that. Only took 5.2 for 181 miles - about average for me. I was on the way to discuss my 6 to 8 week saga of fuel spots (not exactly puddles) and lots of vapor since around 8,000 miles. Got to the dealer and of course, vapor is pouring out. They have replaced the cannister (BRP had them weigh it first, then order it.) They have talked with their contact in Canada numerous times. BRP said it's not the purge valve and won't give warranty. So today's attempt to at least prevent an explosion was to run the vent line from the cannister to the rear, as in the whole canisterectomy. At least the line isn't vomiting all over the CAT now. But the smell was horrible when I stopped in my daughters garage 1.5 hours ago. I could see the vapor and touched the line and liquid was hovering at the end of the new line. That's kind of what we suspected, but when there is no correct answer, I guess you hope for the best anyway. I e-mailed the mx mgr and he says he'll re-open the communication with BRP ref the problem - last talk was the end of last week when absolutely nothing was suggested except don't fill up. Of course, that's not my issue, but at the gas station on empty (-) it was spilling vapor before I got there and 10 minutes later at the dealer was doing it after filled to 1 squirt after it shut off the first time - estimated 3 or 4 inches below the lip.
Enough from me. Besides screaming for another purge valve and canister, any one have any ideas? This did not happen and started long before the present 70 degree days. It did not happen last summer or fall at all. I've always used regular, as I'm only pushing it a little occassionally.
Wrap the pipes? There already is some asbestos or whatever on some of the tank bottom/side:banghead:
Thanks
Tuck
Jees, I've posted my similar problems a few times, but everything I do seems to be wrong. I do not overfill, but I have run it almost dry, per the light and no bars on the LED main screen. Did that this AM. Gassed up with BP regular, at $3.80 - about 6 cents more than the next station I came too - but I'm over that. Only took 5.2 for 181 miles - about average for me. I was on the way to discuss my 6 to 8 week saga of fuel spots (not exactly puddles) and lots of vapor since around 8,000 miles. Got to the dealer and of course, vapor is pouring out. They have replaced the cannister (BRP had them weigh it first, then order it.) They have talked with their contact in Canada numerous times. BRP said it's not the purge valve and won't give warranty. So today's attempt to at least prevent an explosion was to run the vent line from the cannister to the rear, as in the whole canisterectomy. At least the line isn't vomiting all over the CAT now. But the smell was horrible when I stopped in my daughters garage 1.5 hours ago. I could see the vapor and touched the line and liquid was hovering at the end of the new line. That's kind of what we suspected, but when there is no correct answer, I guess you hope for the best anyway. I e-mailed the mx mgr and he says he'll re-open the communication with BRP ref the problem - last talk was the end of last week when absolutely nothing was suggested except don't fill up. Of course, that's not my issue, but at the gas station on empty (-) it was spilling vapor before I got there and 10 minutes later at the dealer was doing it after filled to 1 squirt after it shut off the first time - estimated 3 or 4 inches below the lip.
Enough from me. Besides screaming for another purge valve and canister, any one have any ideas? This did not happen and started long before the present 70 degree days. It did not happen last summer or fall at all. I've always used regular, as I'm only pushing it a little occassionally.
Wrap the pipes? There already is some asbestos or whatever on some of the tank bottom/side:banghead:
Thanks
Tuck
2 Cruysyn
New member
Ceramic coating everything including the CAT helped. Using real gas (no E10 when I can get it) seems to have made a difference too particularly in the mpg department. I was also chastised when trying to use the maximum capacity of the tank. Don't do that anymore. Usually the less fuel in the tank and the more stop and go riding I do the more likely the fuel will boil or at least get to the point that the tank vents a lot of vapor. So much for not overfilling the tank in the first place. The thermal material applied to the tank is not very effective in my opinion. It'll be interesting to see what this summer brings.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
TWO THINGS I DID
One was to put a plastic " T " in the line that goes from the gas tank to the evac cannister and add another section somewhere safe, now no gas can ever get into the cannister. Two was to insulate the gas tank from the heat, I don't believe in using heat-wrap I think it damages the pipes JMHO.......mike......:thumbup:
One was to put a plastic " T " in the line that goes from the gas tank to the evac cannister and add another section somewhere safe, now no gas can ever get into the cannister. Two was to insulate the gas tank from the heat, I don't believe in using heat-wrap I think it damages the pipes JMHO.......mike......:thumbup:
TuckMiddle
New member
T
T is a good idea, but you have to get one with a selector in it, right? Otherwise it could still go into the canister and out to the front, or in my case, the rear, correct? That still doesn't stop the boiling or overfilling or what ever causes the specific event. I also would like to hear what you used on the tank - and to do that, you've got to remove the tank? Mine came with a few "patches" of asbestos looking material on it.
Thanks for this info.
Tuck
T is a good idea, but you have to get one with a selector in it, right? Otherwise it could still go into the canister and out to the front, or in my case, the rear, correct? That still doesn't stop the boiling or overfilling or what ever causes the specific event. I also would like to hear what you used on the tank - and to do that, you've got to remove the tank? Mine came with a few "patches" of asbestos looking material on it.
Thanks for this info.
Tuck
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BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
" T " FITTING
There is no selector on the " T " .....you position the top of the T so it acts as the straight section...the hose from the gas tank connects to the upper part and an extension piece 12-14 inches long to the lower piece...now envision an over flow of gas ....its coming down that hose thru the T and out the extension....the piece of hose that is still attached to the cannister ...connect that to leftover piece on the T fitting....just make sure when you cut the original hose ( gas tank to evac cannister ) you make the cut so the fitting will be lower than the top of the cannister any gas over flow will not go up-hill.....As far as the gas tank insulation goes...I didn't remove any from what was there i just added mine over it ...i had this stuff from years ago ...i think I got it at jc whitney.....It's silver on both sides with a some fireproof fiber sandwiched in between.....and it was self adhesive on one side.......that's the best i can give you......I didn't try for absolute coverage just for "way better than what BRP did"......Mike:thumbup:........I think the " T " was a dollar at the auto parts store....just plastic - sized to fit inside the vent hose
There is no selector on the " T " .....you position the top of the T so it acts as the straight section...the hose from the gas tank connects to the upper part and an extension piece 12-14 inches long to the lower piece...now envision an over flow of gas ....its coming down that hose thru the T and out the extension....the piece of hose that is still attached to the cannister ...connect that to leftover piece on the T fitting....just make sure when you cut the original hose ( gas tank to evac cannister ) you make the cut so the fitting will be lower than the top of the cannister any gas over flow will not go up-hill.....As far as the gas tank insulation goes...I didn't remove any from what was there i just added mine over it ...i had this stuff from years ago ...i think I got it at jc whitney.....It's silver on both sides with a some fireproof fiber sandwiched in between.....and it was self adhesive on one side.......that's the best i can give you......I didn't try for absolute coverage just for "way better than what BRP did"......Mike:thumbup:........I think the " T " was a dollar at the auto parts store....just plastic - sized to fit inside the vent hose
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