Raptor
New member
PM Sent. Thanks Ron!
-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
EBC Rotors
- Thread starter BajaRon
- Start date
PM Sent. Thanks Ron!
BajaRon
Well-known member
Are you talking about resurfacing them? You wouldn't want to take much off of them as thickness is pretty important and typically, MC rotors don't come with a lot of extra meat like car rotors do. I'm sure it could be done and maybe someone has done it.
It won't change the characterists of the rotor, just take out warpage, hard spots or grooves. You have to be very careful, though, with drilled and slotted rotors like ours. The lathe cutters don't like voids.
The EBC rotors are made with a more aggressive metal compound. It stops better and it also resists warpage better than OEM parts.
I've been thinking the same, Might be a cost [time] issue, By the time you do it, it won't cost that much more to just get new ones and be done with it. I know its easier for me with my truck to use new ones than to leave the truck on the stands, And run to a machine shop and hope they [will] turn them right away.
r1100rider
New member
I have been watching this thread there is only one thing I want to know wi these ebc's stop the horrible back up squeek
BajaRon
Well-known member
If someone has had it done I'd like to know.
I used work at a brake shop and I've turned a few rotors. None were drilled or slotted though. My brother owns a machine and repair shop and he also races. I'm going to call him and see what he says about turning drilled or slotted rotors.
Raptor
New member
More than likely it's the superior materials used in the EBC pads. At least that is the impression I get. The stock pads are pretty crappy and I cannot wait to get rid of them. Having said that, I found that if I constanly cleaned the stock brake components they stayed fairly quiet. It was a PITA, but better by far than that embarrassing squeal!
BajaRon
Well-known member
Just talked to my brother about surfacing rotors that are drilled and or slotted. As I suspicioned (is that a word? I've been in Tennessee too long!) anyway, you can't turn these kinds of rotors on a standard rotor lathe. He says most people buy new rotors because (again, as I thougth) there isn't much extra metal and you can't afford to grind much away to start with.
If you do want to surface them they do it on a table top machine with a stone like surfacing a flywheel. That makes sense. He says there are broad blade lathes that will tolerate drilled rotors but not slotted.
There is one other possibility. And that is a machine that surfaces the rotor on the vehicle. My brother isn't sure it would work on the Spyder but it might. It has a rotating garnet wheel that does the job very nicely, according to my brother.
So, there you have it. Anyone come up with something else let me know.
If you do want to surface them they do it on a table top machine with a stone like surfacing a flywheel. That makes sense. He says there are broad blade lathes that will tolerate drilled rotors but not slotted.
There is one other possibility. And that is a machine that surfaces the rotor on the vehicle. My brother isn't sure it would work on the Spyder but it might. It has a rotating garnet wheel that does the job very nicely, according to my brother.
So, there you have it. Anyone come up with something else let me know.
BajaRon
Well-known member
I'm not sure how much you can tell from the looks of a brake pad, but I must say, these new EBC pads look pretty good. I hope they work as good as they look. I'll be interested to hear back from those who are using them.
I will be putting them on my Spyder. They'd be on now except that I don't have time to ride it so what's the point?
Raptor
New member
Since we are on the subject of brakes, I called my dealer to inquire about what it would cost to do a brake job. This was just before I found out that Ron was getting these wonderful new parts. The BRP parts would have been over $175.00 and labor - just to do the basic brake job - about $150.00. Then he said "that is if we don't have to bleed the brakes. If we have to bleed them, there is a 6 hour (approximate) procedure mandated by BRP to bleed the brakes". I could tell he was almost embarrassed to tell me this. He said They have found ways to cut the time down a little, but you have to use BUDS, it's pretty difficult and if you screw up you have to start all over again. I was thinking I didn't hear him correctly or something so I did ask for him to repeat it. So he did.
I just about fell out of my chair. Has anyone heard of or experienced anything like this before? Boss, you have been through training school; is this true? I just cannot wrap my head around why it would take so long to bleed brakes!
I just about fell out of my chair. Has anyone heard of or experienced anything like this before? Boss, you have been through training school; is this true? I just cannot wrap my head around why it would take so long to bleed brakes!
Last edited:
There's one or two people on Spyderloves who have bled their brakes with out using BUD's, and said it wasn't a big deal. I can't remember off hand who they are , But i imagine they'll chime in .
darren
New member
I have fitted new EBC rotors to the frount with the brp brake pads and find there is no noise any more , I have had the rotors fitted for about 3000 km's now and have got no complaint at all, EBC rotors work for me
Last edited:
BajaRon
Well-known member
I have fitted new EBC rotors to the frount with the brp brake pads and find there is no noise any more , I have had the rotors fitted for about 3000 km's now and have got no complaint at all, EBC rotors work for me
View attachment 41410
So far the limited feedback has been very good on both the rotors and the new Semi-Sintered pads. I was never really concerened about the rotors because EBC has been quite dialed in on them for some time.
The new Semi-Sintered pads look impressive and have, so far, been doing a very good job as well.
SethO
New member
their organics were butt, need another tester? I would tell you how they hold up in the winter, salt and speeding around.
docdoru
Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
The first 6,000 miles including Durango CO ryde impressions:
-very quiet (I was running before BRP gen.1,2 and 3 squeaking pads)
-improved stopping distance
-no change in the stopping distance when brakes are hot
-advise: respect the first 4-500 miles indications for fitting the new disc pads with the new rotors: "Although the brake disc/rotor surface will be perfectly flat when using a new rotor, it is still extremely important to “condition” the brake discs and match them up to your pads by driving gently for 400-500 miles. Please be aware that brake performance during the bed in period may be significantly less than you have been accustomed to. What you are looking for is to see a 90%+ surface area contact between the pad and the disc or rotor before optimum braking will be achieved."
Overall impression on a 1-10 scale: 11!
-very quiet (I was running before BRP gen.1,2 and 3 squeaking pads)
-improved stopping distance
-no change in the stopping distance when brakes are hot
-advise: respect the first 4-500 miles indications for fitting the new disc pads with the new rotors: "Although the brake disc/rotor surface will be perfectly flat when using a new rotor, it is still extremely important to “condition” the brake discs and match them up to your pads by driving gently for 400-500 miles. Please be aware that brake performance during the bed in period may be significantly less than you have been accustomed to. What you are looking for is to see a 90%+ surface area contact between the pad and the disc or rotor before optimum braking will be achieved."
Overall impression on a 1-10 scale: 11!
docdoru
Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
:thumbup:Similar threads
