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Elka Shocks came today
- Thread starter Questions
- Start date
hyea:
WingmanRT
New member
Elka Shocks
Mine came directly from Elka on Monday. The ride is much firmer and HUGE improvement in turns. The firmness however, makes potholes much more jarring, but frankly, that is something I am glad to give up over that 'tipping' sensation every time I turned 90 degrees. When I step on a peg to mount the bike, it doesn't even move as opposed to originally tipping a few inches. I figure the difference is that BRP uses the same shocks for the RS that they do for the RT regardless of the 400 lb weight difference. Plus the bike is much more top heavy than the RS. The Elka quality of shocks should come standard on the RT. SO far I have only driven on them about 40 miles, but I did that on a combination of city and highway and rough roads, including some with 'dips' to test it's 'tipping feel'. Perfect. Worth the money!
On a semi-related note for NC ryders: when I spoke with John at Elka, he was very cool in that he talked me away from spending more money than I needed to and he said that he had changed a set of these on a convention room show floor in TEN MINUTES. that a dealer should not take more than 15 minutes or charge more than a half hour. (obviously not including a test ride).
Ahem. Matthews Fun Machines' service manager referenced his computer and said it would take 1.2 hours. He lowered it to an hour... wait for it... to change the 4 bolts on the shocks. (AND charged me $130 to install the $60 Stebel horn I purchased). I have to tell you, I was not happy. They literally charged my 4 times what the manufacture said it can be done in. When I spoke to the service mgr and the sales mgr about this, I got long winded versions of: "it is what it is." Despite the fact that I am getting ready to purchase another $18k RS and am a mechanic dependent rider. A call to another dealer resulted in similar pricing so... what have we learned Dorothy? $700 for the shocks plus another $100 to install four bolts.
$1000 for two shocks and a horn. I feel my IQ lowering as we speak.
Got my Elkas this morning, installed and test rode for an hour. What a huge difference in the ride and handling. Spyders should come with this installed stock.
On another note, I have a set of 2011 RT front shocks looking for a home. 3765 miles on them. Make an offer
Mine came directly from Elka on Monday. The ride is much firmer and HUGE improvement in turns. The firmness however, makes potholes much more jarring, but frankly, that is something I am glad to give up over that 'tipping' sensation every time I turned 90 degrees. When I step on a peg to mount the bike, it doesn't even move as opposed to originally tipping a few inches. I figure the difference is that BRP uses the same shocks for the RS that they do for the RT regardless of the 400 lb weight difference. Plus the bike is much more top heavy than the RS. The Elka quality of shocks should come standard on the RT. SO far I have only driven on them about 40 miles, but I did that on a combination of city and highway and rough roads, including some with 'dips' to test it's 'tipping feel'. Perfect. Worth the money!
On a semi-related note for NC ryders: when I spoke with John at Elka, he was very cool in that he talked me away from spending more money than I needed to and he said that he had changed a set of these on a convention room show floor in TEN MINUTES. that a dealer should not take more than 15 minutes or charge more than a half hour. (obviously not including a test ride).
Ahem. Matthews Fun Machines' service manager referenced his computer and said it would take 1.2 hours. He lowered it to an hour... wait for it... to change the 4 bolts on the shocks. (AND charged me $130 to install the $60 Stebel horn I purchased). I have to tell you, I was not happy. They literally charged my 4 times what the manufacture said it can be done in. When I spoke to the service mgr and the sales mgr about this, I got long winded versions of: "it is what it is." Despite the fact that I am getting ready to purchase another $18k RS and am a mechanic dependent rider. A call to another dealer resulted in similar pricing so... what have we learned Dorothy? $700 for the shocks plus another $100 to install four bolts.
$1000 for two shocks and a horn. I feel my IQ lowering as we speak.
Lamonster
SpyderLovers Founder
I have a 2011 RT-S and had the shocks set to 5, they weren't bad but I am a big guy and still felt I had too much body roll mainly with 2 up. These Elkas made a huge improvement, much better ride all around.
Well I installed mine myself and the springs were up on the RT shocks so I installed the Elkas the same way. Everything seems fine but when I look at your pictures it make me worry that I did it wrong. But I wonder if it makes a difference since they seem to be doing the job.
I installed my Elkas yesterday. I installed them with the spring down and the bleed screw facing out. This way you can get to the rebound adjuster easy. First time doing it and it took me an hour.
Just rode around the block maybe 3 miles and noticed how much flatter the front became. Getting a harsher ride on the bumpy back rode though so today I will soften up the rebound some. Presently it's set at 25.
Just rode around the block maybe 3 miles and noticed how much flatter the front became. Getting a harsher ride on the bumpy back rode though so today I will soften up the rebound some. Presently it's set at 25.
rafiki2cu
New member
The springs go down by the wheel. I think you will have a hard time adjusting you Ekas with the way you installed them.
SteveMac
MOgang Member & Monster Member,
Yes. The springs definitely go down. The instructions aren't very clear on that especially for us DIYers and even some dealers, incredibly,, have installed them upside down. You will want to flip them to spring side down no doubt about it. When the shocks are installed the Elka name will be read right side up too. Just FYI.
fencepost
New member
It took us a few stops to get the ELKA shocks set up for my wife, Barbwire. We first adjusted the spring load, stiffen the spring. Took it to 4 ¾’ and then worked on the rebound. They were set at 25 and backed them off to 20 and she is a happy girl. Check the hex head wrench and make sure it is the proper one for the shocks. The one we got with the shocks was not and I had to buy a set on the road to make the adjustment. You will also need to adjust your headlamps. BTW we had 2011 shocks on her RT and she says these are much improved from them.
rafiki2cu
New member
I never thought of having to adjust the headlamps after installing the Elkas. How do you adjust them or is this something the dealer has to do.
Lamonster
SpyderLovers Founder
bikeguy
New member
Yep, and that much difference is only for the RT-S. According to the Service Manual, the 2010 RT-S weighs 930 pounds but the 2010 base RT weighs 882 pounds, 48 pounds lighter without the bells and whistles. So, in my case, the RT is only 182 pounds heavier than an RS. (Still a significant difference but not 400 pounds.)
Cotton
STUNMUN
New member
elka
You state the bleed screw out. My elkas are mounted the same but I don't know the purpose of the bleed screw or if I should plan to tinker with it. Love the new ride. Makes my cadillac ride a roadster ride. Anyone with knowledge on these shocks please give me your .02.
Why is it so important to have spring down?
You state the bleed screw out. My elkas are mounted the same but I don't know the purpose of the bleed screw or if I should plan to tinker with it. Love the new ride. Makes my cadillac ride a roadster ride. Anyone with knowledge on these shocks please give me your .02.
Why is it so important to have spring down?
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They will not work right upside down like you have them, turn them over asap.
I will likely turn them around for ease of reaching the rebound adjustment but I find it hard to belive they don't work in this position since I have noted a 100% improvement in handling. Thanks for the info though
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
You noticed the difference in spring tension, mostly, plus some residual damping as the oil in the shocks passes through the orifices. The hydraulics of a shock are direction-oriented, though, and they will only work properly if the oil is held in the correct part of the shock and the valves/orifices are in the right position. You paid a lot of money for your shocks. Turn them over and see what they can really do for you!I will likely turn them around for ease of reaching the rebound adjustment but I find it hard to belive they don't work in this position since I have noted a 100% improvement in handling. Thanks for the info though
Lamonster
SpyderLovers Founder
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...nk-you-Docdoru&p=332190&viewfull=1#post332190I will likely turn them around for ease of reaching the rebound adjustment but I find it hard to belive they don't work in this position since I have noted a 100% improvement in handling. Thanks for the info though
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