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Trailer plug adapter

rogerb

New member
BRP now has a 4 pin trailer adapter Part # 219400271 for $139.00. John bought one and plugged it into his 2011 RT-S and his four prong trailer and everything worked ok. I'm gonna try it on my 2010 RT tomorrow now that it has stopped raining. Will let you know the outcome. :dontknow:
 
Wonder what the thinking was in designing factory plug anyway! Flat 4 plug would have been fine... Even the standard 7 wire hookup would use stock stuff,
 
:dontknow:I think is has something to do with the control module so every thing works and the Nanny is happy .
 
BRP now has a 4 pin trailer adapter Part # 219400271 for $139.00. John bought one and plugged it into his 2011 RT-S and his four prong trailer and everything worked ok. I'm gonna try it on my 2010 RT tomorrow now that it has stopped raining. Will let you know the outcome. :dontknow:

Did it work?
 
"BRP now has a 4 pin trailer adapter Part # 219400271 for $139.00. John bought one and plugged it into his 2011 RT-S and his four prong trailer and everything worked ok. I'm gonna try it on my 2010 RT tomorrow now that it has stopped raining. Will let you know the outcome"

It looks like this part number is for an adapter that goes from the trailer to a flat 4 on a vehicle. I would love to see one that goes from the 9 pin on the Spyder to a flat 4. If not I am goint to have to rewire my trailer I used with my wing.

Be Safe
AC:spyder2:
 
Just wondering if there is any news about this harness adapter Part # 219400271. I thought it went from the trailer brp connector to a flat 4 on a vehicle. Does it work going from the Spyder connector to a flat 4 trailer?:dontknow: :popcorn:

Be Safe
AC:spyder2:
 
John hooked it to his machine BRP plug and the other end to his trailer 4 prong and everything worked. I can't hook it to mine till BRP comes out with the new modules. My plug has been out since Maggie Valley. I hope the new ones are better than the old ones. Right now only have running lights. I made an adapter and plug it into the 12 V plug in trunk. Rely on my LED set-up on my trunk for brakes and directionals.
they are higher than my trailer. Necessity is the mother of invention. :dontknow:
 
Does anyone have a picture of the ends of this cable, I am curious to see the 9 pin side. I would like to see the ends before sending out another 139 dollars to purchase this cable.

Thanks
AC:spyder2:
 
Just wondering if there is any news about this harness adapter Part # 219400271. I thought it went from the trailer brp connector to a flat 4 on a vehicle. Does it work going from the Spyder connector to a flat 4 trailer?:dontknow: :popcorn:

Be Safe
AC:spyder2:

Hey Al!
I think you are right. This adapter is to allow the 622 trailer to be pulled by a vehicle with a 4 wire plug.

I just made one that is the nine pin ( the part number is my my post SteveMac mods) where the nine pin connects to the spyder but I cut off the trailer end and wire and put a 5 wire plug on. That is best to use from the research I have done here. I'll try to post pics and a wiring diagram if you are interested.

Tell Rhonda hi from us!!
 
Hey Steve that would be great. I can always rewire the trailer to a five. I was just hoping that I could see the round 9 to the flat 4 from the Spyder to the trailer cause I am kicking around taking the Spyder to Kissimmee when we visit the Mouse next month.

Most of the trailer people I talk to around here when I look for a round 9 pin to a flat 4 all ask the same question, " you have a can-am don't you".

Be Safe
AC:spyder2:
 
There are two other ways to approach your problem. You can purchase a 2011 Trailer Tongue Harness, which is 4-wire, and wire the 9-pin connector portion of the harness to your trailer (or make a 9-4 adapter from it). The other alternative is to purchase a 2010 Trailer Tongure Harness, which is 5-wire (actually seven), separate turn signals to your trailer, then wire the harness to the modified trailer (or make a 9-5 adapter from it). I use the 5-wire adapter version for my trailers other than the RT-622.
 
Trailer Harness?

There are two other ways to approach your problem. You can purchase a 2011 Trailer Tongue Harness, which is 4-wire, and wire the 9-pin connector portion of the harness to your trailer (or make a 9-4 adapter from it). The other alternative is to purchase a 2010 Trailer Tongure Harness, which is 5-wire (actually seven), separate turn signals to your trailer, then wire the harness to the modified trailer (or make a9-5 adapter from it). I use the 5-wire adapter version for my trailers other than the RT-622.

Just to clearify the $500 hitch needs an additiinal harness for wiring? If one wants the standard four/flat plug set up one needs to get the 2011 tongue harness?

I found an ATV attatchment ($10) at Harbor Frieght that will make the hitch a reciever vs a ball. I plan to use the hitch for a bike rake (that i have used on my car for years). I am also considering getting a flat cargo unit ($120) to put into the reciever to take tents and such with us. Want to wire my 2011RTS just because my father taught me to "do things right", and I might need the lights sometime.
 
Just to clearify the $500 hitch needs an additiinal harness for wiring? If one wants the standard four/flat plug set up one needs to get the 2011 tongue harness?

I found an ATV attatchment ($10) at Harbor Frieght that will make the hitch a reciever vs a ball. I plan to use the hitch for a bike rake (that i have used on my car for years). I am also considering getting a flat cargo unit ($120) to put into the reciever to take tents and such with us. Want to wire my 2011RTS just because my father taught me to "do things right", and I might need the lights sometime.
The BRP Spydertrailer module connects directly to their RT-622 trailer, with no adapter. That is its purpose and intent. To tow another trailer, with either 4-wire or 5-wire lighting, you would need an additional adapter or a connector compatable with the BRP connector. The easiest way to make an adapter is to use the appropriate tongue harness...the 2010 for 5-wire and the 2011 for 4-wire. It is even easier to just wire the appropriate harness directly to your trailer. As an alternative, you could purchase the appropriate Deutsch connector, pins, blank plugs, and crimping tool, and build your own. You would need to add diodes to the circuit (already wired into the 2011 Trailer Tongue Harness) to convert the 6-wire+ BRP output to 4-wire input you need, though.
 
Four Wiring needed

The BRP Spyder trailer module connects directly to their RT-622 trailer, with no adapter. That is its purpose and intent. To tow another trailer, with either 4-wire or 5-wire lighting, you would need an additional adapter or a connector compatible with the BRP connector. The easiest way to make an adapter is to use the appropriate tongue harness...the 2010 for 5-wire and the 2011 for 4-wire. It is even easier to just wire the appropriate harness directly to your trailer. As an alternative, you could purchase the appropriate Deutsch connector, pins, blank plugs, and crimping tool, and build your own. You would need to add diodes to the circuit (already wired into the 2011 Trailer Tongue Harness) to convert the 6-wire+ BRP output to 4-wire input you need, though.

Sounds as if I should get the Spyder wired for the BRP connection and then have the four wire 2011 harness Part # 219400271 available to connect the small flatbed I have or any other small light trailer. Thank you for your explanation. I am visual and have great spacial sense so if I see the part I can understand how it fits together.
addendum: Found a picture on ebay - looks like I would have to convert the harness? - (now I understand what you mean by an adapter above). Male end comes from 'car' to female four prong end on trailer on my flatbed. The BRP harness adapter is a male four prong and the BRP side is a female end - so does that mean that the Spyder would be female and the trailer male receiver? Would I be able to find a male to female converter at a travel trailer store? (for either the BRP or four flat) I think I am confused at this point. Sorry to be so elementary.

I understand and would be able to splice and crimp per your comment: ""As an alternative, you could purchase the appropriate Deutsch connector, pins, blank plugs, and crimping tool, and build your own. You would need to add diodes to the circuit (already wired into the 2011 Trailer Tongue Harness) to convert the 6-wire+ BRP output to 4-wire input you need, though."" but what does it mean to add DIODES (looked it up already) - I may be biting off more than I can handle with this option. Is the diode a connection that I would just splice into the line? If so what would be the best way to know which ones to use.

Who wants to start a small business on the side making these adapters?
 
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I may have been premature in mentioning the diodes. It initially appeared that BRP had tied the brake and turn signal circuits on each side together, to change their existing six circuits to the necessary four. Something had to be there to prevent back-feed if that was done, hence the diodes, which are like electrical check valves. Based on information posted the last few days, it is possible that BRP has actually changed the trailer wiring module instead, to provide four-wire output to all trailers. If that is the case, the diodes would not be necessary. I have to do some further testing and research to confirm this. What you need is either a matching 9-pin connector on your trailer (using four wires), or an adapter to go from 9-pin to a female 4-pin, which would then match your existing male trailer plug.

Either is readily achievable with the 2011 Trailer Tongue Harness P/N 710002442. This harness has the mating 9-pin plug on one end. and four wires to the trailer. You could cut off the unused plug at the far end of this harness and wire the 9-pin portion directly to your trailer, either cutting off your existing male 4-pole connector, or tapping in to the wires and having dual connectors in parallel on the trailer. You could also do the same with the Deutsch connector parts, in effect building your own equivalent of one end of the BRP harness. I wish I could explain in a way you would understand, but I am out of ideas of how to go about it any better. Please forgive!

Here is a picture of my adapter made from a BRP harness. Mine uses all six wires and a 6-pole connector, for reasons aplicable only to my particular needs, but a four or five wire version would look virtually the same.

attachment.php
 
Thanks - fully of great info as always

I may have been premature in mentioning the diodes. It initially appeared that BRP had tied the brake and turn signal circuits on each side together, to change their existing six circuits to the necessary four. Something had to be there to prevent back-feed if that was done, hence the diodes, which are like electrical check valves. Based on information posted the last few days, it is possible that BRP has actually changed the trailer wiring module instead, to provide four-wire output to all trailers. If that is the case, the diodes would not be necessary. I have to do some further testing and research to confirm this. What you need is either a matching 9-pin connector on your trailer (using four wires), or an adapter to go from 9-pin to a female 4-pin, which would then match your existing male trailer plug.

Either is readily achievable with the 2011 Trailer Tongue Harness P/N 710002442. This harness has the mating 9-pin plug on one end. and four wires to the trailer. You could cut off the unused plug at the far end of this harness and wire the 9-pin portion directly to your trailer, either cutting off your existing male 4-pole connector, or tapping in to the wires and having dual connectors in parallel on the trailer. You could also do the same with the Deutsch connector parts, in effect building your own equivalent of one end of the BRP harness. I wish I could explain in a way you would understand, but I am out of ideas of how to go about it any better. Please forgive!

Here is a picture of my adapter made from a BRP harness. Mine uses all six wires and a 6-pole connector, for reasons aplicable only to my particular needs, but a four or five wire version would look virtually the same.
see above for picture

A picture is always worth 1,000 words. I will make it work in the end. Nice to know that the diodes may not be an issue. I was looking at Hopkins converters if need be...

I spent my youth handing my father whatever he needed as he geri-rigged anything in sight. I know the most important rule - try but know when to stop and ask for help. I need to dig up the light tester that is somewhere in the garage. At the moment I have to have the hitch installed - I know I could install the hitch, but the wiring is something I will pay a tech to do. Ok, so you all can laugh, I have re-wired a house before but I do not know this machine at all. Yesterday the bolt that hold the muffler vibrated off. The guys at Ace Hardware - well lets just say I had to walk them through what I needed in such a way as to not damage their egos: "Washer? You think you need a washer for that? Well I guess it would not hurt to use one one the nice finished side ....." Me: two please I can not see what is on the side of the location - and lets find the lock washers...... That is ok - they let me borrow a couple of tools from the back and would not accept a tip for their use and the assistance.

Thanks again, your advice is very helpful
 
A picture is always worth 1,000 words. I will make it work in the end. Nice to know that the diodes may not be an issue. I was looking at Hopkins converters if need be...
Can't use a converter with the BRP wiring harness. The converter (isolator) module is built in. It is also integral with the connector, so there is nowhere to wire into the output circuit.
 
Another wrench to throw in. I have a cyclemate trailer which has a 5 wire system ....Yl-Left turn , Gn- Right turn ,Brn-running , Red - brakes , white for ground.

I bought the BRP connector which has a 4 pin end going to the trailer. Gn-Right brake and turn , Yl- Left brake and turn, Brn -running , Bk -ground .

It appears that I have to rewire the trailer lights ? Don't quite understand how to do this one without ending up with brakes and turns tied together.
 
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