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HINDLE EXHAUST

bonehead

Member
do you have to run a Juice Box with this exhaust? My wife wants the exhaust on her bike i dont want to buy the JB unless i have too:popcorn:
 
Nope, many have ran the Hindle or some other aftermarket exhaust without a Juice Box or any other fuel mods. For around three years, my wife has had the Hindle on her Spyder without a Juice Box and I have ran both a Hindle and a HMF exhaust on my Spyder without a Juice Box.
 
As long as you do not change the intake you will not have add anything. Once (or if) you do the intake you may notice a slight backfire on decel. This is due to the leaning out of the fuel/air mixture. The common fix for this is to add the Evoluzinione O2 sensor. It is a very simple add and completely solves the problem. This is what I did and I now have a Spyder that delivers better performance and still maintains good fuel economy.
 
I now have a Spyder that delivers better performance and still maintains good fuel economy.
You're one of the lucky ones. No improved performance and milage is definitely less. Less pop though but still a few here and there.
 
i have stock exhaust and still get occasional popping on decel....

If the air intake is stock, I agee with Scotty. :thumbup:
Also if you do find the gaskets are bad i would use the Honda gaskets
#18392-mam-000 You'll need two,
 
Sounds like you need new Y-pipe gaskets.

If the air intake is stock, I agree with Scotty. :thumbup:
Also if you do find the gaskets are bad i would use the Honda gaskets
#18392-mam-000 You'll need two,

thanks, but really? the :spyder2: doesn't even have 650 miles on it yet?

i hope this shows up in the 600 mile break-in maintenance. is in shop for the maint and to get a couple more mods thrown on (HID fogs is one)...
 
thanks, but really? the :spyder2: doesn't even have 650 miles on it yet?

i hope this shows up in the 600 mile break-in maintenance. is in shop for the maint and to get a couple more mods thrown on (HID fogs is one)...
This is the most likely cause of mild popping in the exhaust for a stock engine. Another possibility is frequent and extended low rpm operation. Mild popping does not hurt anything, so I would not worry, but I would mention it to your dealer at the time of your 600 mile service.
 
thanks, but really? the :spyder2: doesn't even have 650 miles on it yet?


I have the same :spyder2: and have had pops sense day one. I changed to the hindel and have had more pops. I now have just over 1700 miles in 3 months, I don't think it is the Y-pipe gaskets but if it is it was bad from day one. I have the JB on order and hope to install it this weekend. I'll keep you posted on if this helps.
 
I have the same :spyder2: and have had pops sense day one. I changed to the hindel and have had more pops. I now have just over 1700 miles in 3 months, I don't think it is the Y-pipe gaskets but if it is it was bad from day one. I have the JB on order and hope to install it this weekend. I'll keep you posted on if this helps.

The JB will help with coasting and acceleration. I used to have a significant popping noise when coasting and then hitting the throttle...the JB did dial this down a lot.

When the JB first came out, this was before a couple BRP recalls/updates...after the updates, I had to reduce the settings on the JB as the bike was running richer...this turned out to be a good thing.

The bike is running really nicely now...it used to pop most in 4th gear...
 
This is the most likely cause of mild popping in the exhaust for a stock engine. Another possibility is frequent and extended low rpm operation. Mild popping does not hurt anything, so I would not worry, but I would mention it to your dealer at the time of your 600 mile service.

yep, stock engine (and exhaust) but most popping is in decel.
how low of rpm? 'cause i upshift in the 3000-3500 range most of the time.
dang, did not mention it but will try to call them before work tomorrow/today.
 
yep, stock engine (and exhaust) but most popping is in decel.
how low of rpm? 'cause i upshift in the 3000-3500 range most of the time.
dang, did not mention it but will try to call them before work tomorrow/today.
That could do it. That puts you down in the 2,000-2,500 rpm for normal operation. That's mighty low! The Spyder is a high rpm machine, and prefers to be at or above 3,500-4,000 all the time. It really starts to sing at 5-6 grand. If you start shifting higher, you will discover a completely different machine. Don't know if it will cure the popping, but it sure will run stronger.
 
That could do it. That puts you down in the 2,000-2,500 rpm for normal operation. That's mighty low! The Spyder is a high rpm machine, and prefers to be at or above 3,500-4,000 all the time. It really starts to sing at 5-6 grand. If you start shifting higher, you will discover a completely different machine. Don't know if it will cure the popping, but it sure will run stronger.

Totally agree. My Spyder lives in the 6-7K range most of the time and it loves it there. This is of course for 14. My Wife would kill me if I rode her RSS like that! :roflblack: Shift points are at about 5300+ for upshift, Slightly lower for downshift except for when I'm in a more aggressive performance envelope.
 
That could do it. That puts you down in the 2,000-2,500 rpm for normal operation. That's mighty low! The Spyder is a high rpm machine, and prefers to be at or above 3,500-4,000 all the time. It really starts to sing at 5-6 grand. If you start shifting higher, you will discover a completely different machine. Don't know if it will cure the popping, but it sure will run stronger.

Totally agree. My Spyder lives in the 6-7K range most of the time and it loves it there. This is of course for 14. My Wife would kill me if I rode her RSS like that! :roflblack: Shift points are at about 5300+ for upshift, Slightly lower for downshift except for when I'm in a more aggressive performance envelope.

thanks. i do occasionally accelerate hard and then don't upshift until around 5k then. mine is an RS-S and yes, it does love to accelerate. of course i am in 5th gear and around 4k rpm at about 50-55mph, which is a lot of my ryde to work.

for some reason i think the :spyder: really sounds like it WANTS to shift outta 1st gear as soon as you hit 8-11mph (which is in the 3k-3.5k range). of course it could be just because it really wants to be at 70+.........
 
thanks. i do occasionally accelerate hard and then don't upshift until around 5k then. mine is an RS-S and yes, it does love to accelerate. of course i am in 5th gear and around 4k rpm at about 50-55mph, which is a lot of my ryde to work.

for some reason i think the :spyder: really sounds like it WANTS to shift outta 1st gear as soon as you hit 8-11mph (which is in the 3k-3.5k range). of course it could be just because it really wants to be at 70+.........

Shifting is a personal issue. Many run the gears up to their max before shifting...I'm not convinced that this does little more than waste gas, unless you're racing and want to be as efficient as possible. I change gears more based on sound and feel...very seldomly look at speed and/or tach...
 
thanks. i do occasionally accelerate hard and then don't upshift until around 5k then. mine is an RS-S and yes, it does love to accelerate. of course i am in 5th gear and around 4k rpm at about 50-55mph, which is a lot of my ryde to work.

for some reason i think the :spyder: really sounds like it WANTS to shift outta 1st gear as soon as you hit 8-11mph (which is in the 3k-3.5k range). of course it could be just because it really wants to be at 70+.........

Spyder can do 52 in first gear...:D
I don't even think of using 5th gear until 70 mph--- otherwise it just feels too sluggish--
 
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