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nada, zip, nothing

SocalT

Member
About a week ago noticed what felt like steering not being power assisted, off and on, yes and no so much that I started second guessing myself if it was even a issuse. Tonight jumped on the bike and went to start it and have all the same symptons as posted by murphybrown. Makes one click, all displays go out and then nada, zip, nothing.
:dontknow:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21499

Suspected Battery after reading the post and put on a volt meter, it reads 12.54 volts, Put on a tender jr tonight and will see what happens in the morning.

:gaah:
 
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Anyone have any ideas?????

Charged it for About 12 Hours, Started it first thing in the morning and idled for awhile, killed it and tried starting it and it showed all the symptons again. Tried one more time and it fired right up. Voltage check at the test points show 12.7 volts cold and 13.2 running.

I rode it this afternoon for a good hour and got home and restarted it several times. The power steering still acts like it goes in and out but no codes. I have no idea what is going on:dontknow:.

possibly related but not sure I installed the mud flap blikers and the HMT light about 4 weeks ago. All worked well until the right blinker stopped working, I disconnected the hot wire from the turn signal connection and that worked okay but obviously the right mud flap and pilot light do not blink but they are lit. The left has now completely gone out, the blinker works but the mud flap light and the pilot light are out, same time as the DPS seemed to stop working full time( concidence, who knows). I plan on pulling everything this weekend as I suspect a short somewhere.

Anyone have any ideas?????
 
Dead again Today

Went to go ride and soon as you hit the starter everything goes out. Voltmeter on battery reads 4.4 VDC.

What would be draining the battery that much and that fast?

Put in on the charger for just one hour and it started fine.

I am approaching total lack of confidence in a 25K machine that can't even do the battery right.:opps:
 
Went to go ride and soon as you hit the starter everything goes out. Voltmeter on battery reads 4.4 VDC.

What would be draining the battery that much and that fast?

Put in on the charger for just one hour and it started fine.

I am approaching total lack of confidence in a 25K machine that can't even do the battery right.:opps:
I don't know if you have any accessories that would drain the battery, like a voltmeter, but there are also a couple of possibilities for this happening to a stock Spyder. Most common would be a loose battery connection, but these usually won't let the battery charge fully. A bad battery is the other likely choice. If it is improperly prepped and charged by the dealer, or is bad from the factory, it may not hold a charge. It happens...don't condemn the machine because of a single flaw. It should be taken care of under warranty. That's what warranties are for.
 
Scotty

The part I don't understand (which is always the case) Why would this issue show up after two months since purchase?

Thanks as always
 
I don't know if you have any accessories that would drain the battery, like a voltmeter, but there are also a couple of possibilities for this happening to a stock Spyder. Most common would be a loose battery connection, but these usually won't let the battery charge fully. A bad battery is the other likely choice. If it is improperly prepped and charged by the dealer, or is bad from the factory, it may not hold a charge. It happens...don't condemn the machine because of a single flaw. It should be taken care of under warranty. That's what warranties are for.
:agree::ani29:
 
Update on low battery

After a two week business trip was finally able to get the Spyder into the shop. As many people told me it was a loose connection on the battery. In the end the tech determined the Battery was shot so he replaced it and tightened all connections. Drove for about two hours this afternoon and all seems well.

The only glitch in the matrix is that I had been driving it for the most part with no DPS, trust me a low battery voltage casuses all kind of mischeif. Now with the DPS working I have get back to just gently turning it and so forth.

For now all is good in Mudville!!!!!:2thumbs:
 
Is there a way to do it wothout removing all the tupperware that the shop manual calls for?
Not to do it properly. You can do a quick voltage check at the jumper terminal under the seat, but you cannot inspect the battery terminal themselves, and you may get a false reading.
 
Is there a way to do it wothout removing all the tupperware that the shop manual calls for?

No, but the L/H set of panels are removed quite easily.

The hardest part about panel removal is figuring out where to put them all when they are off so they don't get scratched, stepped on, etc.

Chris :spyder:
 
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