Help - Oil Pressure Gauge Installation

[NorthStar]

Want to mount an electronic oil pressure gauge in place of the analog temperature gauge that I have removed. I have already mounted the Voltage Gauge in place of the analog fuel gauge and the other space is just begging for another functional gauge.

Has anyone done this yet or know how to do this on the RT? If so, can you share your expertise?

Any assistance you can pass my way would be greatly appreciated.

 

[InspectorGadget]

Want to mount an electronic oil pressure gauge in place of the analog temperature gauge that I have removed. I have already mounted the Voltage Gauge in place of the analog fuel gauge and the other space is just begging for another functional gauge.

Has anyone done this yet or know how to do this on the RT? If so, can you share your expertise?

Any assistance you can pass my way would be greatly appreciated.

I received the oil pressure sending unit today from www.marinepowerservice.com Sierra part# 01858990 cross referenced from Teleflex # IA15001.
I thought I could just remove the right hand lower belly pan, but it is more involved than that.
After removing the side panel, some gromits, the splash shield, and a lower bolt the belly pan finally came off.
The service manual advises to run the motor for a few minutes to get most of the oil into the oil tank. Also place a pan under the oil switch to catch the 2oz that will be lost.
A 21mm socket was used to remove the oil pressure switch.
I took both the sending unit and the switch to the local Discount Auto Parts and the clerk had to go in the back to find the parts I needed. The sale ticket says "brass 1/8f pipe tee" & "brass 1/8m long nipple". I thought the switch was a metric size, but it did thread into the T. I applied blue thread locker to all of the threads and installed the parts as pictured.
I re-attached the switch wire and started the motor, letting it run for a few minutes to make sure that there were no leaks.
I attached a 16ga wire to the end of the oil pressure sending unit and ran it up into the area of the coolant tank for later hookup.
I re-installed all of the body panels and called it a night.
C-YA RL

 

[SC92]

New Gauges now working

It is raining to-day so I decided to fit up my new Volt meter and Oil Pressure gauges.
They look so good I decided to share.

Volts on the left and oil pressure on the right

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PtFmkgUnajk[/ame]

 

[fastfraser]

:thumbup: Great job. Thanks for the pics.

 

[IWN2RYD]

Beautiful :2thumbs:. Would you be kind enough to link us where you got them, or at least the model numbers and name? A parts list would be wonderful as well! hyea:

Those look to be perfect!! I would love to do the same. Origianlly I was thinking of putting tweeters in there, and changing the front speakers to high-end mids... But your youtube changed my mind... nojoke

 

[InspectorGadget]

Nice job. They look GREAT.
C-YA RL :2thumbs:

 

[Sopher]

This is fantastic!

But will taping into the Oil line be an issue with Warranty? How idiot proof is the install ?

(Just askin')

 

[SC92]

This is fantastic!

But will taping into the Oil line be an issue with Warranty? How idiot proof is the install ?

(Just askin')

Thanks all,
The Gauge sender unit is fitted by screwing an adaptor into the engine that takes the place of the original Oil Pressure Switch, it then screws into the adaptor along with the new sender unit for the Gauge. Very easy to do, also not a huge job if you have to pay for it.

The biggest part of the Job is running the wires etc.

Gauges are available on Ebay (see Link)
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-52mm-Ste...=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1243b945

 

[NorthStar]

Warranty

This is fantastic!

But will taping into the Oil line be an issue with Warranty? How idiot proof is the install ?

(Just askin')

Every modification to a stock machine under warranty has the potential of voiding the warranty work if it can be proved by the manufacturer that the modification caused a specific problem. This mod is very straight forward. I would be hard pressed to think of how unscrewing the OPS and adding a T fitting for the OPG sending unit would cause any problems. It is possible that you could damage the OPS during modification and this would require you to purchase a new switch on your own dime. The same risk is there if you damaged a bolt unscrewing a panel, or changing the oil.
Is this an idiot proof install? I can't honestly give you a definitive answer since the only reference point I have is my personal idiocy level.pps:
However, that being said, I would rate this install as pretty basic, based on my bike modification experience.

 

[Bootie]

Oil Pressure

In looking at your excellent pics, I see only 1 wire from the Oil Sending Unit. I am not sure how the thing works but I would think you need at least 2-wires plus ground. One wire would carry the voltage that is proportional to Oil Pressure and the other wire would carry the 12V Supply from the battery. Could you enlighten us on this? Thanks.

 

[upsdoctor]

SC92,

I would like to order the same volt / oil pressure gauges that you have, but the eBay link in your post has expired.

Did you order the white LED, 0-150 PSI? When the engine is running, what PSI does the gauge normally indicate?

The Racetech gauges seem to match the tach and speedo pretty well.

 

[NorthStar]

Teleflex Morse Oil Pressure Gauge

SC92,

I would like to order the same volt / oil pressure gauges that you have, but the eBay link in your post has expired.

Did you order the white LED, 0-150 PSI? When the engine is running, what PSI does the gauge normally indicate?

The Racetech gauges seem to match the tach and speedo pretty well.

www.marinepowerservice.com part# Sierra part# 01858990 cross referenced from Teleflex # IA15001.

The Oil Pressure is in the 0-80 PSI range.

Ironically, I have just pulled these gauges out of my dash and replaced them with Digital Voltmeter and Ambient Air Temperature gauges from Cyberdyne. I prefer the digital gauges to the analog type that I removed, and I think that seeing an "accurate" air temperature reading will be of more interest to me than the oil pressure. Only time will tell.

Just a heads up on mounting the OP Sender.... Buy a 10 mm to 1/8 NPT adapter to mount the Sender into your block and a 1/8 NPT to 10mm adapter to mount the BRP OP sensor, that you removed from the block, into your T. This second adapter is not necessary, but IMO the one to the block is.

Good luck with your install.

M

 

[Marker]

It is raining to-day so I decided to fit up my new Volt meter and Oil Pressure gauges.
They look so good I decided to share.

Volts on the left and oil pressure on the right

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PtFmkgUnajk

The gauges look awesome nice job and thanks for sharing:thumbup::2thumbs::clap:

 

[PeacefulBen]

:clap: Just changed out the stock fuel/temp gauges and installed the digital readout, voltmeter and oil pressure gauges. Since I already had blue neons under the bike, I chose the blue readout for these. (They also come in other colors.) When off, they simply show up black face. These are Cyberdine units that I found online at www.Tradervar.com

The install was fairly easy, once I got all the panels out of the way. Using posi-locks and posi-taps, I tapped into the red/hot and black/ground wires that were originally used for the stock gauges on both of the new gauges. The voltmeter was the easiest of course, with no new wires needed.

For the Oil Pressure gauge: I had to replace the original sending unit with the one supplied with the new oil pressure gauge. Had to route a "sending wire" from gauge location down to the new sending unit. It came with the same 1/4" threads as the original, making it easy to unscrew the stock sender and screw in the new sender.

Once all the wires were intact, the instructions call for setting (by way of a small screw in the back of each gauge) the "flashing warning setting" you prefer. I set my voltmeter at 11.5 and the oil pressure at 20lbs. When a gauge reaches those "low" settings, it starts to "flash" with the actual reading.

One thing I learned on this mod: :lecturef_smilie: Make sure you read ALL the instructions thoroughly before beginning. I thought I knew how to install gauges, but these digital readouts were a little different. AND I love the cool :2thumbs: look!! A larger picture here: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/album.php?albumid=1248&pictureid=15967

 

[NancysToy]

.....For the Oil Pressure gauge: I had to replace the original sending unit with the one supplied with the new oil pressure gauge. Had to route a "sending wire" from gauge location down to the new sending unit. It came with the same 1/4" threads as the original, making it easy to unscrew the stock sender and screw in the new sender.

Once all the wires were intact, the instructions call for setting (by way of a small screw in the back of each gauge) the "flashing warning setting" you prefer. I set my voltmeter at 11.5 and the oil pressure at 20lbs. When a gauge reaches those "low" settings, it starts to "flash" with the actual reading......

Just in case anyone else is interested in following your lead, I would like to point out a couple of things that owners should be aware of if contemplating this arrangement.

First, the original pressure sensor does not have 1/4" threads, nor would the replacement. The original threads are 6 mm metric. Almost every aftermarket unit is 1/8" NPT (tapered pipe thread). The two are not strictly compatible. While you can get the tapered NPT fitting to seal in the metric crankcase thread, if you elect to use a tee, and retain the original sensor too, the metric threads wll not seal in an NPT tee.

Second, everyone should be aware that replacing the original sensor in this way disables the low oil pressure warning on the Spyder, and also the diagnostic code function (read by BUDS). If you have an oil pressure problem, the Spyder won't tell you...you'll have to pay attention to the gauge warning alone. Also, most gauges have no such warning function...be sure to use a gauge with a warning if you get rid of the original sensor.

 

[PeacefulBen]

Just in case anyone else is interested in following your lead, I would like to point out a couple of things that owners should be aware of if contemplating this arrangement.

First, the original pressure sensor does not have 1/4" threads, nor would the replacement. The original threads are 6 mm metric. Almost every aftermarket unit is 1/8" NPT (tapered pipe thread). The two are not strictly compatible. While you can get the tapered NPT fitting to seal in the metric crankcase thread, if you elect to use a tee, and retain the original sensor too, the metric threads wll not seal in an NPT tee.

Second, everyone should be aware that replacing the original sensor in this way disables the low oil pressure warning on the Spyder, and also the diagnostic code function (read by BUDS). If you have an oil pressure problem, the Spyder won't tell you...you'll have to pay attention to the gauge warning alone. Also, most gauges have no such warning function...be sure to use a gauge with a warning if you get rid of the original sensor.

:agree:Thanks Scotty, for making sure we get the information correct. My typo...It is a 1/8" NPT on the new gauge. Before I even tried it it the crankcase, I compared the two closely. Both were tapered, threads matched, and length of shaft was the same. Even had a younger set of experienced mechanic eyes compare the two. (I may have gotten lucky here that they matched so close.) :clap:

:agree:Also, you are correct in that this type install will disable the low pressure warning on the Spyder. That was my concern when shopping for an oil pressure gauge. This new gauge has a set screw in the rear that allows you to set a "low-point" flasher. After checking the RT manual, I started by setting my "low-point" warning at 20lbs. (The manual calls for a nominal pressure of 22lbs, at 1400 rpm) When the pressure drops below the selected "low-point", the LED readout flashes continously, until it climbs back above the set point. These things are bright and when it flashes, you definitely see it! :doorag:

Other than losing a dash screw to the "Black Hole" (been replaced), everything has been working great and we're getting some nice compliments on them.

Got a question you might be able to answer for me: For servicing, if I disconnect the new sending wire, and reconnect the original sending wire to the new gauge, will this enable the diagnostic code function on BUDS?:dontknow:

 

[NancysToy]

Got a question you might be able to answer for me: For servicing, if I disconnect the new sending wire, and reconnect the original sending wire to the new gauge, will this enable the diagnostic code function on BUDS?:dontknow:

I doubt it. The Spyder sensor is merely a pressure switch, as far as I can tell. It sounds like your new sender is just that, usually a variable resistance sending unit. If so, the units are not compatible. Your gauge/sender combo will give the same function, it will merely never show in BUDS, but unless you have serious engine problems or a very low oil level, it will probably never show up in BUDS anyway. Save your old sensor, and reinstall it if you find the need for the dealer to check for the code.

 

[RetiredCGRider]

gauge replacement

So these are 2 1/6" gauges, I think I'll do mine with both sending units.

 

[GaryTheBadger]

A customer wants me to install blue digital oil pressure and ammeter (not voltmeter) gauges on his RT.
I understand the oil pressure piping issues and can handle that, but I have a couple of questions:
1) Confirm I need 2 1/16 dia gauges?
2) How are modern digital ammeters connected these days? Decades ago, you had to connect in-line
and alot of amps ran through thick wires. Has that changed to low-current sensing of some kind?
Is the Spyder charging system going to make this extra challanging? Anyone installed an Ammeter yet?

Thanks!

Gary

 

[NancysToy]

A customer wants me to install blue digital oil pressure and ammeter (not voltmeter) gauges on his RT.
I understand the oil pressure piping issues and can handle that, but I have a couple of questions:
1) Confirm I need 2 1/16 dia gauges?
2) How are modern digital ammeters connected these days? Decades ago, you had to connect in-line
and alot of amps ran through thick wires. Has that changed to low-current sensing of some kind?
Is the Spyder charging system going to make this extra challanging? Anyone installed an Ammeter yet?

Thanks!

Gary

An ammeter must be installed in line after the main fuse and before any load, or it needs a meter with a current sensing coil. The first option requires heavy wiring, and creates a possible point for future electrical failure, to boot. The second option may not be available for automotive use anymore, and requires the loop and wiring size to match, or multiple passes of the wire through the loop. You would have to do some research. These weaknesses, are why voltmeters have displaced ammeters in automotive use. Voltmeters are simple and quick, and they match the diagnostic methods in the service manual. They are sufficient for casual use like this. I wouldn't recommend separating the main electrical feed and wiring heavy wire all the way to the dash from the rear. If you can't find a current sensing loop version of a gauge, I would go with the voltmeter.