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Analogue temp and fuel gagues... disconnect
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Anyone considering taking this to another level and trying to get both analog and digital gauges to function simulataneously? Seems like there would have to be a feedback loop (ground perhaps) so that the bike knows when the analog gauges are hooked up or not. Break the loop, maybe both work at the same time. :dontknow:
Chris
Chris
Not me.... aside from hating the analogue's to start with, the way my fuel gauge is it would be a waste of time... AND they are opposite sides to the digitals.
TicketBait
RT-S PE#0412
Yes, Yes, Yes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!hyea:
I just removed the four screws and popped the Gauges out. Trick to getting the panel out is to turn the wheels hard right. Disconnected the wiring and started her up.
The Digital gas gauge comes up on the right side of the display with blue bars and the Digital Temp gauge comes up on the left side. after letting it warm up some it had yellow bars to start with. Didn't let it run to see if the color of the bars change as it got hotter. I just wanted to see if it worked. Looks like it is time to order a blank panel and use this space for some electrical switches or jacks. :yes::yes:
So I wanna do this tomorrow, I probably have all the necessary tools, but if you know what size screw driver I need,I have a 3rd grade mentality when it comes to tinkering, I do know how
to jump start a vehicle with out it exploding, so please someone with a lot of patience walk me through the process. When he says he removed 4 screws, he's talking about the dash, when
he says disconnect the wiring ,is he talking about the connection to the gage? after disconnecting do I need to wrap electrical tape around the loose connectors?
bikeguy
New member
Maybe I'll replace them with an altimeter and an air speed indicator, just to mess with people's minds.
I was wondering what to put in there to get rid of the funky little blanks on my RT. Now I know. Great idea, Scotty.
Cotton
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
A voltmeter and an oil pressure gauge would probably be more practical.....but not near as much fun.
TicketBait
RT-S PE#0412
So I wanna do this tomorrow, I probably have all the necessary tools, but if you know what size screw driver I need,I have a 3rd grade mentality when it comes to tinkering, I do know how
to jump start a vehicle with out it exploding, so please someone with a lot of patience walk me through the process. When he says he removed 4 screws, he's talking about the dash, when
he says disconnect the wiring ,is he talking about the connection to the gage? after disconnecting do I need to wrap electrical tape around the loose connectors?
I gave this thread a bump so someone could possibly answer my question I had in post #27
Take the 4 screws out of the dash panel. I think it is a T25 wrench, not supplied in the tool kit. The dash will then pull out. There are some clips holding it at the sides, so pull there. The only thing hooked to the panel are the gauges. The single wire is for the light, and there are 3 wires hooked together in a sort of harness. Very easy to see once you are this far. Unplug all from the back of the gauge. Don't really know if there is a need to tape the wires, though it couldn't hurt.
Take your time, you will be fine doing this.
TicketBait
RT-S PE#0412
Take the 4 screws out of the dash panel. I think it is a T25 wrench, not supplied in the tool kit. The dash will then pull out. There are some clips holding it at the sides, so pull there. The only thing hooked to the panel are the gauges. The single wire is for the light, and there are 3 wires hooked together in a sort of harness. Very easy to see once you are this far. Unplug all from the back of the gauge. Don't really know if there is a need to tape the wires, though it couldn't hurt.
Take your time, you will be fine doing this.
Thanks for the detailed info, when I was at my dealership this morning they were reconnecting the frunk electric switch
,and I told the mechanic about how simple it was to disconnect the analog gauges and then it appears on the dash,
he said he hadn't taken out the 4 screws yet and was curious and 5 minutes later he did it for me :yes::clap:so I slipped him a $20, and rode on my way.
Volt Guage
I have ordered a voltage gauge from a local marine dealer and it should arrive within the week. It is a 2" gauge with a stainless bezel, domed glass face, and black backing. The big thing is to make sure the rear fastener ring snugs up against the back of the dash panel so you get a waterproof seal with no gaps. I would like to install an oil pressure gauge as well, but that install is a bit beyond my technical expertise.
I plan on hooking the positive wire to a relay powered from the switched wire that currently provides the lighting for the existing analog gas gauge. This relay will be powered through my Blue Sea Fuse Block that I installed behind the liner in my front trunk.
If anyone does the oil pressure gauge hook up I would sure like to hear the details.
I have ordered a voltage gauge from a local marine dealer and it should arrive within the week. It is a 2" gauge with a stainless bezel, domed glass face, and black backing. The big thing is to make sure the rear fastener ring snugs up against the back of the dash panel so you get a waterproof seal with no gaps. I would like to install an oil pressure gauge as well, but that install is a bit beyond my technical expertise.
I plan on hooking the positive wire to a relay powered from the switched wire that currently provides the lighting for the existing analog gas gauge. This relay will be powered through my Blue Sea Fuse Block that I installed behind the liner in my front trunk.
If anyone does the oil pressure gauge hook up I would sure like to hear the details.
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Volt Gauge
Picked up my voltage gauge today. It is a Teleflex Morse Signature Series Voltage Gauge. Part No. 63478P. I went with the Sterling unit because I liked the look of the silver face plate rather than the black face plate.
I will remove the analog temperature gauge and plug the hole with a cap that my dealer gave to me.
Picked up my voltage gauge today. It is a Teleflex Morse Signature Series Voltage Gauge. Part No. 63478P. I went with the Sterling unit because I liked the look of the silver face plate rather than the black face plate.
I will remove the analog temperature gauge and plug the hole with a cap that my dealer gave to me.
InspectorGadget
New member
I pulled the plugs on my analog guages today. It took all of 5 minutes.
Back out the 4 screws, turn the bars hard right, carefully pull out the dash, unplug the 1 plug & 1 wire on each guage, stuff the wires in the space to the outboard side of the guage wells, re-insert the dash , and re-install the screws. Done.
Now I have to look for matching oil pressure/voltmeter guages.
C-YA RL
Back out the 4 screws, turn the bars hard right, carefully pull out the dash, unplug the 1 plug & 1 wire on each guage, stuff the wires in the space to the outboard side of the guage wells, re-insert the dash , and re-install the screws. Done.
Now I have to look for matching oil pressure/voltmeter guages.
C-YA RL
My temp gauge seems fine. My fuel gauge is steady, runs the scale very quickly. After 37 miles on a full tank, it shows about half scale. After 74 miles, it is just getting into the red. At this point, I cannot squeeze 3 gallons of fuel in even though he gauge is almost in he red.
My question is... How accurately does the digital gauge represent the fuel tank?
I assume it is represented with digital "bars". I will be willing to do this mod if the end result is a gauge that is predictable and more accurate than the analog gauge.
Chris :spyder:
My question is... How accurately does the digital gauge represent the fuel tank?
I assume it is represented with digital "bars". I will be willing to do this mod if the end result is a gauge that is predictable and more accurate than the analog gauge.
Chris :spyder:
TicketBait
RT-S PE#0412
my analog fuel gauge was doing the same as yours, didn't bounce around but was not accurate.
Since I recently did this I have not been able to decipher what each bar represents for amount of fuel left, however when
I gassed up today with just 3 bars left at the bottom I put in 4.258 gallons of gas
I also like how the Cluster changes color depending on whether it's night or day
Thanks for the pictures and information. I am currently filling up once a day for a 74 mile round trip to work. I know I should be able to easily extend that to one and a half trips and most likely two full trips. Staring at that gauge in the red makes me nervous lol. Obviously I am still fairly new to the bike. Anyway, the information you provided is reassuring to me.
Chris :spyder:
Chris :spyder:
Good idea...anyone??
dave01
New member
Thats my plan, at least for one and an ammeter for the other
Sopher
New member
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