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2026 S2S transmission failure - Anyone else having similar issues?
- Thread starter Randy J
- Start date
mecsw500
Well-known member
My 2026 S2S has been faultless so far.
Does it throw any fault codes BUDS3 can pick up?
That’s going to be a hard one to trace as it could be electronics, wiring, solenoids, or mechanical issues.
I’m sure the dealer is as puzzled as you are, as it’s probably a pretty rare issue they may never have personally seen before.
They need to get BRP support involved.
A definitive fault needs to be found, as it could be dangerous. I’d also file a report on the NHTSA website in case it’s a more common problem than perhaps we think.
Does it throw any fault codes BUDS3 can pick up?
That’s going to be a hard one to trace as it could be electronics, wiring, solenoids, or mechanical issues.
I’m sure the dealer is as puzzled as you are, as it’s probably a pretty rare issue they may never have personally seen before.
They need to get BRP support involved.
A definitive fault needs to be found, as it could be dangerous. I’d also file a report on the NHTSA website in case it’s a more common problem than perhaps we think.
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Hey Randy. Just a clarification question for my little lizard brain. You say it "just goes into Neutral". Did you mean that literally, one second you're in 6th gear and a split second later it pops into Neutral? Or, does it start downshifting all on its own, and sequentially downshifts through all the gears and stops in Neutral?
Towed twice in the first 1000 miles !
I wouldn't be yelling at the dealer, but I would be raising bloody hell with BRP.
They have three options.
Replace the bike.
Money back.
Or talk to my lawyer.
Of course I have a short fuse, takes a bit to get it lit, but then stand back.
I wouldn't be yelling at the dealer, but I would be raising bloody hell with BRP.
They have three options.
Replace the bike.
Money back.
Or talk to my lawyer.
Of course I have a short fuse, takes a bit to get it lit, but then stand back.
JayBros
Well-known member
If you are uncertain the dealseship knows what's going on you should politely tell the service manager you want them to open a case with BRP.
jcthorne
Well-known member
Sounds like the clutch is letting go while riding. Actually shifting from 6th to N would be 5 shifts as this is a sequential transmission and there is no path to get from 6th to N without going through all the other gears.
The clutch is held clamped by oil pressure through the HCM (hydraulic control module). I would have the dealer look for oil pressure anomalies and oil pump issues. Or very low oil levels.
The very first indication of an oil pressure issue on these bikes is loss of clutch clamping and thus slippage. Will happen much sooner than the low oil pressure switch that lights the dash indicator.
The clutch is held clamped by oil pressure through the HCM (hydraulic control module). I would have the dealer look for oil pressure anomalies and oil pump issues. Or very low oil levels.
The very first indication of an oil pressure issue on these bikes is loss of clutch clamping and thus slippage. Will happen much sooner than the low oil pressure switch that lights the dash indicator.
BajaRon
Well-known member
I was going to post what jcthorne said until I read his reply. There is no way for the transmission in the Spyder to go from 6th to neutral in one step. It can only do that from 1st or Reverse. It must be a clutch issue. If it is releasing completely there may not be any damage to the friction disks. It is interesting that it is intermittent. As JC says, it's probably an HCM issue, since it's unlikely that you're losing oil pressure. But you could be losing pressure to the hydraulic clutch system with blockage or a valve that is opening which it should not.
Ozarkwoods
Member
I have not had any problems with mine. 1200 miles on it.
As a fellow up on this, the gas mileage on my bike has been terrible since new, the best mileage (according to the trip computer) is 26 mpg, that’s in town, I tried to take it on a trip and after 40 miles the trip computer was showing 19 mpg.
The dealer replaced 2 solenoid valves the first time I had it towed in, and it had 4 codes, P1987, P1940, P1960, and P07B1.
The dealer replaced 2 solenoid valves the first time I had it towed in, and it had 4 codes, P1987, P1940, P1960, and P07B1.
There's an earlier thread on similar codes here:
https://www.spyderlovers.com/threads/2020-f3ltd-codes-p07b1-p196c-and-p194d.132039/
Might be helpful, might not, but still... Good Luck.
https://www.spyderlovers.com/threads/2020-f3ltd-codes-p07b1-p196c-and-p194d.132039/
Might be helpful, might not, but still... Good Luck.
BajaRon
Well-known member
A slipping clutch is just one way to get poor fuel mileage. With the codes you've got, a slipping clutch could just be a minor symptom of the sudden 'Neutral' issue you're having. The HCM system is extremely sensitive to any contaminants in the oil. With only 1,000 miles so far, I'd say the clean out process performed at the factory might not have been as effective as it needed to be. An oil change, done correctly, might be a very good idea.
There may be noting wrong with the hydraulic valving. But they are not designed to deal with any crud that circulates to them. If this is the case, replacing the valves isn't going to be a long term fix unless you get clean oil into the engine.
Your oil may look nice and clean even with particles like fine shavings, etc., floating around in it.
All it takes is one small particle getting into one of the hydraulic shift valves to create havoc. This is one reason we do not like the 'Suck it Out' proceedure, and recommend draining the oil hot right after riding (which is what we do at the shop). Because this does a better job of removing those larger, heavier particles. Though it isn't nearly as important on a Manual Trans machine.
I am sure that once they get this right, you'll have no further problems with your Spyder.
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