Any ideas about why my Spyder has No Crank - What gives?

[DriftBuster]

I've checked the threads for this, but didn't see anything that quite fit. New to the Can-Am thing due to back issues and need 3 wheels. I've had some issues with this from the beginning, simple things like 7 year old and worn tires, overheating due to bad thermostat, and waiting on parts and special tools for various little things. It's essentially been sitting since early May, but I have had it on a charger almost all the time.

Finally got it all buttoned up and took it for a drive. Then I had issues with no crank. Got that working for only one day, almost 2 weeks ago now. Zero crank since. I'm following the start procedure; turn the key on; wait for the startup sequence and hear the relays clicking up front; press Mode; see only the blinking parking brake, neutral, and oil pressure lights on; press start; and get NOTHING!

I've replaced the starter solenoid and it still doesn't crank. I shorted out the posts and it cranks. But I can't even activate the solenoid by jumping the control connectors with 13 volts. I've replaced it once and I have another that I haven't put on yet or tested. Same thing! There's 13 volts across the spade terminals, but that still doesn't activate the solenoid! What gives?

FYI, 0.4 ohms to ground on the starter.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

You didn’t mention the Kill Switch in RUN in your second paragraph. Being in STOP causes a “no crank” on a Spyder.

 

[JayBros]

Have you had the battery load tested?

 

[Bfromla]

Have you had the battery load tested?

& star washers biting the lead on the clean terminals?

 

[DriftBuster]

Have you had the battery load tested?

No, but brand new

 

[Peter Aawen]

No, but brand new

I've posted it before, and I guess I'll probably end up posting it again, but even brand new batteries can fail, ESPECIALLY if they weren't ever initialised properly before installation and given at least 8 hours of proper charging OR if they've been left on a charger/tender for any extended period!

Mind you, for once, I reckon a battery load test wouldn't be my first step here, altho I would normally be saying do a load test First, even (or maybe especially) if it's a new battery!!

In this case, from what we've been told, it'd be the second thing I did/checked, cos I'm with @Snowbelt Spyder on this one - this sounds very much like the Kill Switch is still in the Stop position, or maybe it's failed and hasn't actually clicked over to Run when the switch was toggled?? There have been a few reports posted here of this happening?!

 

[DriftBuster]

You didn’t mention the Kill Switch in RUN in your second paragraph. Being in STOP causes a “no crank” on a Spyder.

The Kill switch is in the Run position. The battery is now at 13.1 volts. Same issue with jumping it. That still doesn't explain why 3 starter solenoids will not operate when 13 volts is directly applied to the control tabs.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Yeah Drift. I'm intrigued why, even your spare "on the bench" solenoid doesn't appear to operate with voltage applied to the control coil tabs. It can't be that complicated. Either the solenoids you are using are faulty, the solenoids are not 12VDC solenoids after all, your 13 volt power supply is faulty and can't maintain voltage when applied to the solenoid, or your testing method and analysis is incorrect. The starter motor appears to operate normally when you jump across the solenoid. So forget that. When measuring the resistance of the control coil in the solenoid, you should get around 5-ish ohms. Where are you getting your solenoids from? Where are you getting your 13 VDC source from? In other words, if the spare solenoid isn't even working on the bench, it's not a Spyder problem.

I assume you can read an electrical diagram. Here you go if you ever need it.. Your 2011 is the same as this 2012 diagram. The download link is in the upper left.

2012 wiring diagram.pdf

drive.google.com

 

[DriftBuster]

Yeah Drift. I'm intrigued why, even your spare "on the bench" solenoid doesn't appear to operate with voltage applied to the control coil tabs. It can't be that complicated. Either the solenoids you are using are faulty, the solenoids are not 12VDC solenoids after all, your 13 volt power supply is faulty and can't maintain voltage when applied to the solenoid, or your testing method and analysis is incorrect. The starter motor appears to operate normally when you jump across the solenoid. So forget that. When measuring the resistance of the control coil in the solenoid, you should get around 5-ish ohms. Where are you getting your solenoids from? Where are you getting your 13 VDC source from? In other words, if the spare solenoid isn't even working on the bench, it's not a Spyder problem.

I assume you can read an electrical diagram. Here you go if you ever need it.. Your 2011 is the same as this 2012 diagram. The download link is in the upper left.

2012 wiring diagram.pdf

drive.google.com

2.8 ohms across the control contacts. I'm using a Milwaukee m18 battery with a voltage controlled jumper set designed to start vehicles. After checking for actual voltage, it seems it doesn't put out any voltage unless connected to a battery. I used an M12 to jump the solenoid on the bike, it cranked. Turning it on and cranking, and it starts quickly. So now just tracking down why it doesn't crank. Will need to use the wiring diagram to test the start switch, I guess. Anything else I should look at? Moment of desperation, I could get a waterproof momentary switch and wire that directly into the solenoid.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Check or replace the pre-start relay.

 

[DriftBuster]

Check or replace the pre-start relay.

Nope. Swapped out the headlight relay and still no crank.

Also, voltage to the starter solenoid control tab is only 11.48 volts when the battery is at 13.1 volts.

 

[SLemmons]

If it is not in Neutral, it will not crank unless you press the brake pedal.

 

[Snoking1127]

If it is not in Neutral, it will not crank unless you press the brake pedal.

I was going to point that. You beat me to it.