Trailering the Spyder - could use some tips on fastening it down?

[Disisme]

Hi folks, going this weekend to pickup up my 2022 Sea to Sky this weekend, it’s a full days drive to get there and drive back the next day. I got my son’s trailer to haul it back , and could use some tips on fastening it down. I have a couple wheel chocks like is sitting in the trailer, was thinking once I see where Spyder sits in trailer I will screw the chocks to the trailer bed and use the soft straps to go around the base of front shock area and use the tie downs to each corner at front of trailer, kind of cross crossing, as I’m not sure how delicate the front ends are. So left shock tie down to the right corner ring of trailer and right tie down to left trailer ring after first lining up the front wheels to the yellow chocks. Then back wheel with straps pulling to rear of trailer rings. Does this sound feasible? Suggestions welcome. Thanks.

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[Snoking1127]

This is how I tied down my first Spyder before going to a full e-track set up. You want to be sure to really secure the rear incase "stuff" happens, as you do not want in the tow vehicle with you.

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[Disisme]

This is how I tied down my first Spyder before going to a full e-track set up. You want to be sure to really secure the rear incase "stuff" happens, as you do not want in the tow vehicle with you.

View attachment 254844 - View attachment 254845

Where did you connect to at the front wheels? Like when the bike has the park on will it move at all ? I realize I’m going to be on hi way for 8 hours with it on trailer but wondering are the straps really cranked down or just tight without putting any stress on the front end? Thanks

 

[2dogs]

Kinda hard to secure on a flat hard surface like your son's trailer. The rear tire is easy. Wrap around and criss-cross. Rather than securing to any portion of the front suspension with any excessive pressure, I'd consider attaching to the foot pad supports. I have Super Chocks, and the only tie-downs I use are to the floorboard supports. They'll take more pressure than the front suspension.

 

[Disisme]

Kinda hard to secure on a flat hard surface like your son's trailer. The rear tire is easy. Wrap around and criss-cross. Rather than securing to any portion of the front suspension with any excessive pressure, I'd consider attaching to the foot pad supports. I have Super Chocks, and the only tie-downs I use are to the floorboard supports. They'll take more pressure than the front suspension.

Thanks that is a good alternative, I just don’t want to mess up the front end. Maybe up against wheel chocks and then strap off the foot pad supports. When I’ve transported motorcycles I’ve always soft strapped off the triple tree forks and compressed the forks and it wouldn’t move.

 

[mecsw500]

I have a Spyder specific Kendon trailer.

Think you can emulate what I do though. I'd take a piece of two by four and screw it down sideways across the trailer towards the front. I'd then drive the Spyder up against it and effectively use it to chock the front wheels. Screw down the four by four leaving enough space so the nose of the Spyder doesn't hit the front of the trailer.

I park my Spyder and engage the parking brake. Then I loop straps across the rear of the Spyder, through the rear wheel to, to the back of the trailer. At the front I then strap through each front wheel forwards to trailer, keeping the anchor point of the strap as low as possible.

This way the Spyder is secured by the un-sprung parts of the Spyder allowing the suspension of the Spyder to still absorb bumps and move about. Sometimes trailers have little to no suspension so compressing the suspension of the Spyder means the whole thing will go up and down like a 1000lb block on the 500lb trailer.

Now, on my trailer the Spyder runs up to the front of the trailer where it acts like a chock, and I can get the mounting part of the the strap really low down. But if you strap through the upper part of the front wheels you'll be OK. Same at the rear.

The thing to be really careful of, which is why I got the tailor made trailer, is to make sure you have a shallow enough angle to get the Spyder up the ramp without hitting the underside of the nose on the ramp.

Check the straps frequently to begin with and use quality straps with decent ratchets.

I've attached a photo of my prior Spyder being trailed a few years ago. You don't need that many straps if they are properly positioned and tightened.

Whatever you do, don't trailer it backwards or the wind might pull the screen off.

 

[Disisme]

So @mecsw500, like this, the red representing the 2x4? I was thinking something like that but with an additional yellow chock. And the 2x4 would help support the wheels up against the chocks. I do have the rings in the floor to strap to which would a nice low point. So kind of pulling forward up against the 2x4 and chocks and pulling backwards to the rear rings off the rear wheel. The rear of the trailer is quite low and the gate/ramp is quite lengthy as you can see in the pics.

 

[Br549rick]

if you have available hook points at floor level loop tie down thru spokes of wheel front to front rear to rear straps will not scratch wheels...chocks not needed. with spyder in tension like this and the park brake set it wont move at all...

 

[Disisme]

if you have available hook points at floor level loop tie down thru spokes of wheel front to front rear to rear straps will not scratch wheels...chocks not needed. with spyder in tension like this and the park brake set it wont move at all...

So actually insert straps in through and back out the front wheels spokes ?

 

[Br549rick]

yes sir... i hauled them this way profeesionaly without problems

 

[Disisme]

yes sir... i hauled them this way profeesionaly without problems

I considered this but I was concerned with having issues after with front end alignment going out from yanking on the wheel spokes. This won’t cause those issues strapping down like this?

 

[Br549rick]

no issues at all stay away from valve stems you cant torque enough with a straps on both wheels to effect alignment no worries safe travels

 

[mecsw500]

So @mecsw500, like this, the red representing the 2x4? I was thinking something like that but with an additional yellow chock. And the 2x4 would help support the wheels up against the chocks. I do have the rings in the floor to strap to which would a nice low point. So kind of pulling forward up against the 2x4 and chocks and pulling backwards to the rear rings off the rear wheel. The rear of the trailer is quite low and the gate/ramp is quite lengthy as you can see in the pics.

View attachment 254848

Yes, that'll work. The straps pulling backwards at the rear and forwards at the front should keep the wheels chocked. The yellow chocks might help, but I would guess just the 2x4 will be enough. Don't stand the 2x4 on end though, as the clearance of the Spyder front end isn't much over 4 inches so you don't want it banging on the timber.

They actually don't need that much strapping down to be honest if you can get the anchor points low enough. Get the tires compressed a bit against the pull of the straps and that puppy isn't going anywhere.

Just take a break every now and then, especially early on to check the tension (all straps have a bit of stretch in them), and you'll be just fine.

Drill holes in the 2x4 so you just screw into the bed. Usually 4 decent screws will hold that 2x4 plenty well enough and your son will probably never notice the holes when you take them out .

Try and get the center of gravity a little forward of the trailer wheels. If the Spyder is centered over the trailer wheels, the Spyder being front end heavy will be about fine. Not too much tongue weight, but enough for stability.

Be cautious though, especially when slowing down, as if your trailer doesn't have brakes a Spyder weighs close to a thousand pounds and you don't want the thing wallowing around back there. Just drive smoothly. Make sure the trailer lights work too and don't forget you have 16 foot of trailer behind you when pulling out of side turnings. Check the trailer tires for condition and inflate to the recommended pressure as blowouts are never fun on a trailer.

Good luck and I hope the trip works out.

 

[Disisme]

no issues at all stay away from valve stems you cant torque enough with a straps on both wheels to effect alignment no worries safe travels

So through the spokes forward to the corners of the trailer where the rings are, the trailer is 14’ x7’ dual axle so I figure Spyder front should be about 3 feet back for tongue weight, this sound about right? You can see where the right side ring is .

 

[Tango]

Use rags through the wheels. Don't strap the wheels, they could rub the wheels.

 

[Disisme]

Yes, that'll work. The straps pulling backwards at the rear and forwards at the front should keep the wheels chocked. The yellow chocks might help, but I would guess just the 2x4 will be enough. Don't stand the 2x4 on end though, as the clearance of the Spyder front end isn't much over 4 inches so you don't want it banging on the timber.

They actually don't need that much strapping down to be honest if you can get the anchor points low enough. Get the tires compressed a bit against the pull of the straps and that puppy isn't going anywhere.

Just take a break every now and then, especially early on to check the tension (all straps have a bit of stretch in them), and you'll be just fine.

Drill holes in the 2x4 so you just screw into the bed. Usually 4 decent screws will hold that 2x4 plenty well enough and your son will probably never notice the holes when you take them out .

Try and get the center of gravity a little forward of the trailer wheels. If the Spyder is centered over the trailer wheels, the Spyder being front end heavy will be about fine. Not too much tongue weight, but enough for stability.

Be cautious though, especially when slowing down, as if your trailer doesn't have brakes a Spyder weighs close to a thousand pounds and you don't want the thing wallowing around back there. Just drive smoothly. Make sure the trailer lights work too and don't forget you have 16 foot of trailer behind you when pulling out of side turnings. Check the trailer tires for condition and inflate to the recommended pressure as blowouts are never fun on a trailer.

Good luck and I hope the trip works out.

Thanks I was wondering first off how much clearance there was for the ramp but yes also for the 2x4, and was thinking about where to park it on the 14’ trailer bed , I know it’s dual axle and my Ford truck has a pretty good tow capacity but I do want it pulling nicely and not wagging down the hiway.

 

[Snoking1127]

Where did you connect to at the front wheels? Like when the bike has the park on will it move at all ? I realize I’m going to be on hi way for 8 hours with it on trailer but wondering are the straps really cranked down or just tight without putting any stress on the front end? Thanks

Reversed the lower shock bolt and installed these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08P15BHSR?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
I believe Lamonster sells them also.

 

[Disisme]

Reversed the lower shock bolt and installed these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08P15BHSR?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
I believe Lamonster sells them also.
View attachment 254850

I was reading your post about using the eye nuts but I’m driving Thursday and would receive in time .

 

[Bfromla]

All good & each tow will vary per person & experience/acceptance levels. The dealer will(should) hopefully assist & default answer : read the manual.**<strap through rim -not brake rotor>**Too bad not ryding back - but each their own , glad have an option & asking. Enjoy new toy.

 

[mecsw500]

Thanks I was wondering first off how much clearance there was for the ramp but yes also for the 2x4, and was thinking about where to park it on the 14’ trailer bed , I know it’s dual axle and my Ford truck has a pretty good tow capacity but I do want it pulling nicely and not wagging down the hiway.

Oh, I think with that setup you'll be fine. I've always gone for a center of gravity a bit in front of the axle(s) towards the tongue. I'm not an expert but I've towed a few RV trailers in my time and that's how they all seem to be balanced. My Kendon Spyder specific trailer is that way too and I never even know it's there most of the time.