If one is that concerned about tire pressure, make sure you:
- never attempt to add air once the machine has been ridden even a short distance
- never set the pressures on a sunny day and your Spyder is outside: the solar gain on the side in the sun will make a difference when the tires all come up to the same temperature
- never use air from a heated air compressor (it's all about PVT - pressure, volume, temperature)
- never set you tire pressures in a heated or cooled building and then ride outside in the opposite conditions (cold or hot)
By the time you crawl around and set up your gear, I will have set all 3 of my tires to the accuracy of my tire gauge, and the equipment put away.
.
Regardless of all the above, your underlying 'pre riding/cold start pressure' before any of that ^ is what counts, riding your Spyder/driving your car/truck will start to negate any/all of those things mentioned within just a few minutes of actually starting moving, and will have completely negated them within about 10-15 mins of riding, so if you set your pressure in/under any of those conditions, taking note of that pressure
THEN RIDE YOUR SPYDER FOR ABOUT AN HOUR and check your pressure again, you should
STILL be aiming to see
about a 4psi increase from your initial start pressure as outlined in my earlier posts.
As mentioned, it's all about PVT - pressure, volume, and temperature, and after an hour or so's riding,
the riding you've just done takes all of those things into consideration, plus accounting for your loading, your riding style, your speed, the conditions you are riding in, and a heap more besides; so as mentioned in those earlier posts, if you get an increase of
MORE than 4psi, your start pressure was
Too Low; while if you get an increase of
LESS than 4psi, your start pressure was
Too High.
It's pretty simple really, and for most, their loading &/or riding style, conditions etc really don't change enough from ride to ride that varying your tire starting pressures with every ride is something you need to sweat about too much - if you're within a pound or two of that ideal pressure 4 psi increase after an hour's ride today, then you're probably OK for the rest of today's ride, and you can always adjust your riding a bit to cool off or heat up your tires today (
if you want too); or you can simply store that knowledge for now and adjust your initial starting pressure as indicated for next week's ride if all those variables/conditions look to be fairly similar; or you could maybe even make allowances and increase your initial starting pressure up or down a psi or two for any changes you expect to see in the riding you're about to do next time you ride!
As for adjusting tire pressures on the fly - you'd only ever want to adjust your tire pressures by
ONE HALF of the DIFFERENCE between the pressure your tires ARE at after an hour or so's ride, and the pressure they SHOULD have been if they went up by the ideal target of 4psi - so even if your
OEM tires were grossly under-inflated initially and they went from saay, 18 psi to 28 psi after an hour's ride, you'd really only want to add 1/2 of the difference between the 22 that was the ideal target and the 28 actual pressure they reached, ie. 28 minus 22 = 6 and 1/2 of 6 psi = 3 psi... So a quick squirt of the forecourt air hose should do that easily!

It's a bit harder if your tire pressure's
don't increase by as much as 4 psi after an hour's ride, cos that means your starting pressure was too high, your tire/s are over-inflated, and yet 1/2 of the difference between what they
are and what they
should have been if they went up by 4 psi is going to be pretty small - saay you started your
A/mkt car tires at 18 psi and now, an hour's ride later, they're maybe just 19 psi, when ideally, they should've been 22 psi... So those A/mkt car tires are clearly
over-inflated for the conditions and riding you're doing today, buuut - 22 minus 19 leaves a difference of only 3 psi, and 1/2 of that is just 1.5 psi - it's gonna be pretty hard to drop that precisely, isn't it??

So maybe you'd just take that one on notice & remember it for next weeks ride, when, if conditions are pretty much the same, you juust might want to start out on your ride with your A/mkt tires at about 17 psi instead of 18 psi!
But don't get too stressed about it - for most, near enough will be good enough! Just like all those concerns in the quote above will be negated soon enough after you start riding, the difference of 1 or 2 psi between the ideal and your actual isn't going to be
too critical in the overall scheme of things, well, not for maybe as much as the next 1000 miles or so anyway, meaning that you might want to learn from those 1 or 2 psi differences and make the indicated changes next time you ride, gradually adjusting your initial starting pressure over the next 10 or so hour+ rides you do, meaning that you're gradually getting closer and closer to your ideal pressure for most conditions;
BUT if you're running 28 psi in an a/mkt car tire, there's a very good chance that your initial starting pressure is about 10 psi too high - I haven't yet found
ANYONE who is heavy enough, loads their bike so much, or who rides hard enough to warrant that sort of pressure in any 'real' car tire fitted to a Spyder, or who needs anything much more than about 16-18 psi in an A/mkt tire for most Spyder riding - but the OEM Kendas & their clones are so lightly made that
they NEED the tire placard sort of pressure in them simply to keep the metal bits off the road, and that brings all sorts of wear, handling, tire longevity, etc. issues with it!
Have Fun, Ride More, Worry Less! 