Place a short length of 2x6 under the rear shock bolt. Make sure it's long enough to reach both sides of the swing arm.Where would be the safest spot to place a floor jack under an RT to raise it a bit to make it easier to get to the rear tire stem?
Good question. Imagine the force on that bolt the times you hit a hole in the road going fast and you get that "ouch" feeling and everything turns out to be ok when you check.Has anyone actually possessed a lower shock bolt that was bent by applying a jack to the bottom of a shock? Not sure how many times I have jacked mine, and a few others, up that way and it's still very straight.
Otherwise, if you adjust pressure with the tire in the air, when you let it down, the tire compresses = the air then compresses = the pressure goes up.
Why do you have to “lower bike and redo everything” if the valve is “not in the position”, Longisland?Seems to be a lot of work to check the air pressure. Get the jack, position it properly, get 2X4's position correctly, jack the bike up, get down on floor to get to valve, Oh No, it's not in the position, lower bike and redo everything.
Once a month I check tire pressure takes all of 15 minutes, I kneel on a garden pad to save my knees.
I can’t remember which model you have, 2dogs, and it doesn’t say on your posts, but I have to assume it isn’t a ‘20+ RT where only a small part of the wheel is visible under the saddlebags unless you get down on your knees (especially at 6’7”).I'm not really sure why you'd have to get down on your knees or lay down just to air up or check the air pressure in your rear tire if you have the correct air chuck. I've screwed around with several different methods and air tools but the simplest seems to be the best. I fill everything with 18 PSI with the same air chuck without messing up my knees or back. I'm not sure if folks know this, but many compressors can be set to only fill a tire with a set amount of PSI.
Mine's a 14RT and with the correct tools and knowing how to use them (from several screwups) and with the valve stem at or near the 4/5 o'clock position, I can easily (almost) air up the rear tire w/o getting my knees dirty. I carry a second set of those tools in the frunk if I need to air up away from home. And no Pete, unlike you (LOL) I'm definitely height challenged. You've got a foot or more on me so if I were ever to get down under I'd be glad to help air up your tire.I can’t remember which model you have, 2dogs, and it doesn’t say on your posts, but I have to assume it isn’t a ‘20+ RT where only a small part of the wheel is visible under the saddlebags unless you get down on your knees (especially at 6’7”).
Pete
I'd love for you to show me a difference in tire pressure with the tire on the ground vs: lifted.Hey Vito. Well first, Thank you for serving and thank you for supporting the NRA.
Looks like you are in search of ways to make things easier to add / check air pressure to that rear tire. Physical limitations or whatever. Don't blame you. Royal pain.
A couple of things to consider. Crawling around on the floor to fiddle with a jack and a 2x4 is more painful than biting the bullet and adding air to the tire as is. Jacking it up by the center frame member doesn't buy you anything, because you have to get it WAY up before the rear tire starts to rise. The bike can then become unstable. And, with your 2021, you have interference with the floor boards and that pesky reverse actuator on the left side. Plus, keep in mind, that a manufacturers recommendations / specifications on tire pressure, is always based on the tire temperature being at ambient conditions WITH VEHICLE WEIGHT ON THE TIRE. Otherwise, if you adjust pressure with the tire in the air, when you let it down, the tire compresses = the air then compresses = the pressure goes up.
Besides looking into the angled tire valve stem extenders, you might also what to consider an extended air chuck for your air hose. It's
what I've used for 12 years. One of my first "special tools" for the shop. On the bright side, you just don't have to check or add air that often. Be safe out there.
I didn't realize you can rotate the rear wheel by hand; I thought the belt would make it difficult. Still, that adds a measure of difficulty to checking the air pressure. I stand by my method as being the simplest, easiest and quickest, even though getting up and down is a bit difficult for me.Why do you have to “lower bike and redo everything” if the valve is “not in the position”, Longisland?
The front wheels would be chocked, and you would have the park brake off, so you would simply rotate the wheel to the correct valve position…..you can also rotate the rear wheel to clean it easily.
Pete