Anyone tried "Speed Bleeders" brake bleeders?

[davev1pa]

I did the speed bleeders on the 2012 RT at the calipers only -Not on the VCM - that's too hard to reach and requires BUDS to bleed. My thoughts are that with all the lines to the brakes, you will get about 90% of the DOT4 exchanged. Granted, it's not complete, but good enough for me. To actuate the VCM, you're gonna need BUDS. Purists will disagree with me for various reasons, and I get that. I'm leaving dirty DOT 4 in a small portion of the system. The other concern is safety; BUDS will allow the user to activate the VCM and measure the actual pressure required to apply the brakes etc. This is not something you can do by "feel" & say you have good brake pedal action (not mushy). I'm ok with this DIY method, but others may not be. Look, the brakes are *&&^^ on the early models pre BREMBO anyway! I've researched changing all the calipers (not really an option); the rotors can be switched with EBC's, as well as changing the stock pads, but that's about it in the early models. BTW the rear brakes wear first; depending on riding conditions the fronts seem to last forever. I have "adequate" braking on my '12, but I really enjoy the Brembo's on the 14 RT!

 

[davev1pa]

Eviltwin, it's easy to get air in, and IDK what method you used. Was it absolutely working before you started, or is this a result of your work? Ps: I don't pump the brake pedal to push fluid through, in most instances I just tie down the pedal; open the bleeder; keep the reservoir full until I feel it has reached the bleeder; then shut the bleeder; untie the brake; and top off the fluid. Some others use suction; some pump the pedal; I like gravity and an open line. None of this advice works for a stuck caliper. That being said - try again...

 

[Eviltwin]

Its been a few weeks since I was working on it. I will get back on it but right now working on a boat project.

I pumped the brake pedal to push the fluid out. It worked fine on the right wheel. As far as whether the left caliper was working before I started, I don't know. I tend to think it wasn't since braking wasn't all that great.

 

[RangerRick]

I have this one way valve with clear hose on both ends, I just slip it over the stock bleeder and put the other end in a bottle. It worked great for me, forgot where I bought it. Way cheaper than speed bleeders.

 

[RealWing]

Can someone confirm if SB6100 is the right number for the f/r of my 2022 RTL. I emailed the company but no reply so far
Thx
Jim

 

[Woodaddict]

I put them on mine, Don't remember #. But I just went to my Spyder model and got #. I forgot the ABS module - master cylinder. So you need 4

 

[RealWing]

Unfortunately their web site only lists up to 2019

 

[Woodaddict]

I looked at the Speed Bleeder website to refresh my memory. Since 2013 all spyders are Brembo Brakes with same part#, so SB6100 is correct. Also, the master cylinder hasn't changed, so that part# is SB1010S. You need BUDS for this, to flush with computer. It's good to get old fluid out of there too!

 

[DickB]

I had to replace the rear caliper on my 2014 RSS. This is the bleed procedure from the Service Manual which I followed. I did not use a speed bleeder or a check valve - it appears the caliper has this function. Am I missing something here?

 

[EdMat]

I had to replace the rear caliper on my 2014 RSS. This is the bleed procedure from the Service Manual which I followed. I did not use a speed bleeder or a check valve - it appears the caliper has this function. Am I missing something here?

The part that makes speed bleeders so nice is not having to open and close the bleeder with each pump of the pedal.

 

[Peter Aawen]

I had to replace the rear caliper on my 2014 RSS. This is the bleed procedure from the Service Manual which I followed. I did not use a speed bleeder or a check valve - it appears the caliper has this function. Am I missing something here?

You are, cos it doesn't! Not even if you might THINK that's what those instructions say!! :lecturef_smilie:

While bleeding WITHOUT a Speed Bleeder or a check valve, you need to open the bleeder and depress the brake pedal as explained in the first few words of Item 2 in your image; but then as per the NOTE:, you still MUST close off the bleeder BEFORE releasing the pedal EVERY TIME!! And that means, if you follow the 'normal' brake bleeding process, &/or as your image says if you read the steps AND the Note together, in the manner intended but likely translated by a non-english speaking translator who really has no idea about how to do the bleeding job anyway - that means you need to:

• get down on the ground to position on the bleed nipple any hose &/or catch bottle you might need to catch the used brake fluid expelled from the bleed valve nipple;
• open the bleed valve so that it's in its 'brake bleeding' position;
• get up or get someone to depress the brake pedal fully and hold it depressed;
• get back down to close the bleed valve without dislodging the hose &/or catch bottle OR letting any air get sucked back into the caliper/system;
• get up or get someone to release the brake pedal fully;
• while you're up there, check that the reservoir isn't close to empty;
• go back to the top of the list, rinse, & repeat all of that at least 25 times!!

And believe me, doing all that ^ without a speed bleeder or check valve REALLY IS a pain, what with all the fiddling with the bleedin' valve and the getting up & getting down and messing around!! :banghead:

But it's a cake-walk if you do it with a speed bleeder or check valve! No real need to worry about your hose/catch bottle falling off, nor letting any air get sucked back into the caliper, & neither do you hafta have an off-sider to pump the pedal &/or top up the reservoir while you open and shut that fiddly little bleed valve (or vice versa! ) -

• get down & open the speed bleeder/check valve so it's in its 'brake bleeding' position;
• position any hose/catch bottle you might need to stop making a mess; then
• you, the sole operator, can get up on the bike and slowly and gently pump the pedal however many times it takes to do the brake bleeding, keeping an eye on the reservoir & topping it up as you go;
• get down to disconnect any hoses etc & close off the speed bleeder...

With the Speed Bleeders or check valve, there's:

• No repeated opening and closing of the bleedin' valve down on the caliper;
• no getting up and down throughout the process, jumping on & off at least 25 times to alternate between opening/shutting that bloody valve;
• no refitting of the hose that you dislodged last time you tightened the valve again (maybe letting air get sucked back into the system as you did, possibly necessitating re-doing the whole bleedin' thing! :cus: ); &
• no worrying about topping up the reservoir cos you were rolling around on the floor and couldn't see it, possibly draining it, & getting air into the system so that you hafta redo the whole bleedin' thing AGAIN again!! :cus:

With the Speed Bleeders, you just set each caliper/bleed point up once & open the speed bleeder; pump the pedal however many times is necessary; top the reservoir up as necessary; close the speed bleeder when you're done; and move on - all done, no air getting sucked back or into the system, problem solved! hyea: Well, sorta - but you get the drift, I'm sure!

Speed Bleeders make bleeding the brakes a whole lot easier and generally a one-person operation! Without them, cos NO Spyder brakes have an OEM 'brake fluid check valve' feature or function, bleeding ANY Spyder brakes is a pain! :banghead: Go for the Speed Bleeders or at least a check valve! :thumbup:

 

[NorwegianRT]

Put speedbleeders on my RT this year and I just wish I had known about them earlier. My brakes have never been this easy to bleed. :thumbup:

 

[RealWing]

Confirmed with Speedbleeders today that SB6100 is correct for front/rear calipers for my 2022 RTL

 

[Grayfox]

I put speed bleeders on my 2012RTS SM5 - great stuff!

 

[DickB]

The part that makes speed bleeders so nice is not having to open and close the bleeder with each pump of the pedal.

But I did not open an close the bleeder, just left it open and it bled just fine.

 

[EdMat]

But I did not open an close the bleeder, just left it open and it bled just fine.

OK, so you open the bleeder, pumped the brakes, and all is well? Did any brake fluid come out?

 

[Mikey]

But I did not open an close the bleeder, just left it open and it bled just fine.

It will self-bleed itself to a point, If I was you and didn't have bleeders, I would do a couple of cycles under pressure to make sure you force all the air out of any high spots! Just my 2 cents!

 

[pegasus1300]

I have this one way valve with clear hose on both ends, I just slip it over the stock bleeder and put the other end in a bottle. It worked great for me, forgot where I bought it. Way cheaper than speed bleeders.

The one-way valve that Ranger Rick mentions in his post is available from Motion Pro www.motionpro.com. By using this you can eliminate the need to put speed bleeders on all three calipers. I think it is only about 12-13 dollars.

 

[DickB]

OK, so you open the bleeder, pumped the brakes, and all is well? Did any brake fluid come out?

Yes, I bled a couple ounces.

 

[Peter Aawen]

The part that makes speed bleeders so nice is not having to open and close the bleeder with each pump of the pedal.

But I did not open an close the bleeder, just left it open and it bled just fine.

OK, so you open the bleeder, pumped the brakes, and all is well? Did any brake fluid come out?

Yes, I bled a couple ounces.

The thing to be concerned about if you bleed without closing off the bleed valve or using Speed Bleeders/at least a check valve is not so much the amount of that comes OUT, it's the significant risk of what might be, or in reality - is probably going back IN!! :gaah: nojoke

Every time you lift off the pedal without closing off that bleed valve to stop it sucking any crap back in is a risk - it might be just sucking back a small amount of ejected brake fluid, but it could be sucking back some air, or very likely all of the above plus some further contaminated fluid (did you wash whatever you used to catch the ejected fluid with water or a solvent of some sort? Did you dry it in an oven, not just give it a wipe? Did you then make sure it was sealed to stop letting any humid air get in??)

Even just high humidity air can contaminate your brake fluid, that's one of the reasons you need to flush & change the brake fluid regularly - brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air, and over time, that moisture contamination spreads out thru the brake fluid in the system, potentially causing rust & other internal issues, but more worryingly, gradually contaminating the fluid right down to the caliper - where, once the brakes are used and the non-compressible & very hard to boil brake fluid gets hot, the also non-compressible and not so hard to boil water/moisture in the fluid will also get hot... potentially boiling said water, which turns to steam! Only steam IS compressible, and now you've got compromised brakes!! And even non-humid air is compressible, plus, it encourages and enhances corrosion, especially in a warm & wet environment, like inside your brake system... :banghead:

So, by not using a check valve or closing off that bleed valve before the pressure comes off the brake pedal, you've almost certainly introduced some contaminants if not actually moisture/water contaminated brake fluid RIGHT AT THE VERY WORST PLACE YOU COULD POSSIBLY EVER ADD CONTAMINANTS!! :yikes: Sure, it's probably not too contaminated, and it probably will 'dilute' a bit more in the rest of the good brake fluid still in the system - but this is a critical part of your brakes, a major safety concern, and even a miniscule amount of 'water' in there can cause brake fade &/or failure when you least need/want it to occur; or it could start the caliper piston &/or cylinder rusting; or cause them/something else to seize... any/all if which can cause brake fade &/or failure when you least need/want it to occur!! So I guess it comes back to how lucky do you feel?? And how comfortable you are with putting every other road user around you &/or pedestrian/innocent by-stander you pass at risk?? :dontknow:

So I'd STRONGLY recommend that you bleed your brakes properly, closing the bleed valve off before releasing the pedal each time; or use something like Speed Bleeders or a check valve to ensure that you aren't sucking contaminated brake fluid &/or anything else into your brake system while you're bleeding them!! :lecturef_smilie:

Just Sayin'!