Thinking about buying a Can Am - looking for advice??

[BajaRon]

As everyone has said. You are going to want an RT with the kind of riding you want to do and the weight. Getting a 2010-2013 RT will get you into the Spyder world for less money. The 998 will do all you want it to do if you ride it the way it was designed to be ridden. The HP is essentially the same as the 1330. It just takes a bit more RPM to get there.

Most coming off a motorcycle like you are used to have a hard time spinning the engine the way it is designed to be ridden. Ths 998 more so than the 1330. There is plenty of HP with the 998. Just takes a bit more RPM to get there. The 998 starts making HP right about where a Harley redlines. But once you get used to the sound, it's no longer a problem.

The 1330 has the advantage of making 998 HP sooner in the RPM range. And BRP has made a number of improvements to the Spyder over the years. Still, I wouldn't discount an older machine. Especially if you're not sure of the platform and if funding is important to you. Many start with a much less expensive model to get their feet wet. Then move up to a newer machine if they end up liking the platform.

There is a big learning curve going from 2 wheels to the Spyder. It may feel all wrong to you and you may not like your first ride (or several afterwards) until you get used to the way it handles. Believe me, many of us have Been There, Done That. But once you get accustomed to the machine, you will find it to be one of the best rides you've ever owned. The Spyder is every bit as much fun as 2 wheels. Just different fun. The key is to RELAX, RELAX, RELAX! The smallest input to the handlebars will give an equal, and instant reaction. Much different that the delayed and subdued reaction to handlebar input on 2 wheels.

Take your time, check things out (as you are doing). Going to a Spyder isn't the step down that going from 2 wheels to 3 used to be. It's a step up to a whole new world of freedom, comfort, and enjoyment.

 

[jjc54]

Here is my experience with Can-am. I rode shotgun to Michigan behind my sister-in-law (2011 RT SM5) to pick up a 2016 RTL SE6. Grand Rapids during rush hour was a trip. Did a turn and burn and felt comfortable from the beginning other than I was hunting for turn signals and dimmer switch. Even did about 2 hours of night riding looking for lodging in bear crossing country the first night! Took the scenic route back and stayed away from Grand Rapids. While I ride it much more aggressively now I definitely did not slow down the other 2 bikes I was with. I never even tried my sister-in-law's Can-Am. I did have my learners permit but only to ride my brother's Sportster to join in the fun. I have not regretted the purchase for one day. The wife and I love it but I love it more!

 

[librarian]

This is excellent information. I visited their website and they have brand new 2022 f3T's on there for 17.3K. Still a lot of money to get my feet wet, but it's a very good price or at least seems so to me. It would be worth the trip to get the deal. I also found a 2014 with about 18K miles for about 8750.00. Here's a link to the listing in Marketplace: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/265879629908642
Here's the FT3-T I mentioned before:https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/715204714109699/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A614e325d-dbfa-41a3-a26e-d537ea38710f

Hope the links work.

 

[librarian]

Such wonderful information. I signed up for a Can Am riding class on the 25th and 26th of April. I think it will give me some good experience in a positive learning environment. I already have a Motorcycle endorsement on my license. Still, I think it will be a good experience for me. I've also learned that it's not a good idea to buy a 2013 model due to the heat issues. If I were to get serious about an older bike, it will become imperative for me to make sure there's a shop around here that will work on it. I think I probably could get along with a 998 rig, but I just don't want to have to do all the work on it. There was a time when I never took anything to the shop, but not anymore.

Don Williams a.k.a. librarian

 

[JohnRuckus]

Such wonderful information. I signed up for a Can Am riding class on the 25th and 26th of April. I think it will give me some good experience in a positive learning environment. I already have a Motorcycle endorsement on my license. Still, I think it will be a good experience for me. I've also learned that it's not a good idea to buy a 2013 model due to the heat issues. If I were to get serious about an older bike, it will become imperative for me to make sure there's a shop around here that will work on it. I think I probably could get along with a 998 rig, but I just don't want to have to do all the work on it. There was a time when I never took anything to the shop, but not anymore.

Don Williams a.k.a. librarian

Yeah. Hopefully, they have more than Rykers so you can experience multiple machines. It is a controlled course. So, you won't be getting in high speed street rides, but you can at least get the basics of operating the machine.

I still suggest trying to ride the Spyder models during the Can Am Experience if you can wait that long.

As far as the 2 Spyders from FB, I wouldn't go with the 2014 b\c as others mentioned the potential for needing maintenance without the ability of getting it done. However, price sounds like a huge part of your decision. So, as BajaRon mentioned, there's nothing wrong with going older to get your feet wet(and saving some coin). If you hate the machine, you can always hopefully sell it to someone else. If you love it, maybe you can sell\trade it towards something more modern when ready.

I don't think you'd be too disappointed with either approach. Keep doing your homework. You'll find what you're looking for.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Such wonderful information. I signed up for a Can Am riding class on the 25th and 26th of April. I think it will give me some good experience in a positive learning environment. I already have a Motorcycle endorsement on my license. Still, I think it will be a good experience for me. I've also learned that it's not a good idea to buy a 2013 model due to the heat issues. If I were to get serious about an older bike, it will become imperative for me to make sure there's a shop around here that will work on it. I think I probably could get along with a 998 rig, but I just don't want to have to do all the work on it. There was a time when I never took anything to the shop, but not anymore.

Don Williams a.k.a. librarian

There was a recall on the 2013 RT heat issues, and by now, most 2013's (and quite a few earlier and later models too ) have had that recall done - it involved removing the excessive sound deadening material from under the tupperware and adding two large air intakes, one on either side below the mirrors where other RT models usually have little clear 'mini-windscreen' style winglets to keep the rain off your knees!! Once you see a Spyder with those intakes fitted, it becomes an obvious and an easy way to tell if the Heat Recall has been done! :2thumbs:

The reason that there was excessive heat collected under the tupperware so that the recall became essential was that the 2013 RT was meant to be released with the 1330 Triple engines, an engine that's wider rather than long, like the V-Twins are; but cos the 1330 motors weren't ready in time, BRP stuffed the V-Twin back into a hole and a bike with suspension & brakes that'd been upgraded to take the wider, heavier, torquier but lazier motors; all of which messed with the air flow around the engine & created a heat trap under the tupperware!! :banghead:

BUT, that still means that apart from the (lazier but torquier) motor, the 2013's got ALL the other upgrades, including frame improvements that made for better ride & handling; Brembo Brakes that massively improved the braking; and a heap more besides, effectively making the 2013 RT's with the Heat Recall work done, and in fact all the 2013+ V-Twin powered Spyders with the Heat Recall work done (the Heat Recall was a non-mandatory minor panel change on the other models, but you could still get RSS & ST V-Twins up until about 2016 ) arguably by far the pick of the V-Twins, and for many, especially those who appreciate the revvier, peppier, far more responsive and exciting when teamed with their better handling due to their lighter weight, the absolute best choice of Spyder's to own & ride!! hyea:

As for not getting parts, besides some obvious panel changes, not too much in the frame & driveline has changed since 2013, and there are a growing number of V-Twin powered Spyders out there with over 150,000 mainly trouble-free miles, some with well over 200,000 miles; many of them being those 2013+ models which have all the goodies intended for the 1330 release without the imposition of the lazier, less exciting to ride/operate 1330 motor!! Besides, given a little mechanical sympathy and some relatively easy to do basic maintenance, the V-Twin Rotax engine is pretty much indestructible! nojoke

So the 2013+ V-Twin powered Spyders are arguably the pick of the crop, and unless you're looking at buying a 'maintenance neglected' really high milage 2013+ V-Twin powered Spyder, or maybe one that's done too few miles (ie, anything less than an average of about 2-3000 miles per year, which means it's been spending a lot of time just sitting around & deteriorating! :sour: ) you will be fairly unlikely to have any engine issues, and many of other important parts are still in use or available elsewhere anyway!! AND there's a growing number of really competent Spyder Techs out there who are no longer working for & so fettered by BRP's slavish & pointless restrictions on what they can do &/or fit too, so with any luck, you won't even hafta do all the (relatively easy) general maintenance yourself either!! :lecturef_smilie:

Personally, I wouldn't discount ANY of the non-1330 models as a great, cost effective start for a newbie Spyder Ryder/owner; and by preference, I'd always go for one of the 2013 & on V-Twin Spyder models that's had the Heat Recall work done over any 1330 model anyway, simply cos the V-Twins have enough creature comforts without all the fragile & unnecessary digital crap & useless fripperies and they've got all the good mods & brakes etc; plus, BRP hasn't yet come up with a package that's sufficiently exciting or as much fun to ride that it stands any chance of enticing me away from my 2013 RT!! And to top it all off, you can get an ECU Upgrade that'll make any of the V-Twins more powerful and almost as economical as the 1330's too, all within the proven safety & reliability limits of the engine/trans as used in other platforms, with the exception that you will still be a little restricted in the ultimate potential range by the pre-1330's smaller gas tank, but then again, that smaller tank (20 useable litres vs 24 useable litres ) does help reduce the overall weight and adds even more to the V-Twin's 'get up and get outta here' fun & capability! hyea:

There's a lot going for any of the 2013 & on V-Twin Spyders, especially as a cost effective 'First Spyder'! :lecturef_smilie:

Just Sayin' And despite having done more miles than many owners on 1330 powered Spyders, I'm STILL enjoying the heck outta my 2013 RT so much that it'd take a helluva lot to drag me kicking and screaming off it and onto one of those lesser, lazier, & odd sounding 1330 powered models on a permanent basis! hyea:

 

[librarian]

I've learned much from this forum and have already watched quite a number YouTube videos on Spyders, Spyder buying tips, comparisons to other trikes and bikes etc. I have the feeling I'm just scratching the surface. It's fascinating. It also stimulates the research librarian in me to learn as much as I can. I had begun to think my riding days were over, but now I find that many of my generation are on Spyders. If they can do it, I can too.

Don Williams a.k.a. librarian

 

[Knizar]

I've learned much from this forum and have already watched quite a number YouTube videos on Spyders, Spyder buying tips, comparisons to other trikes and bikes etc. I have the feeling I'm just scratching the surface. It's fascinating. It also stimulates the research librarian in me to learn as much as I can. I had begun to think my riding days were over, but now I find that many of my generation are on Spyders. If they can do it, I can too.

Don Williams a.k.a. librarian

You will not regret it!:2thumbs::welcome: Bill

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I am grateful to all of you who have responded to my post with sage advice and tips for what to do. I've mostly been a touring bike guy. In the last 26 years, the smallest bike I've owned was a Honda cb900. I've also owned a Honda 1100 ACE, two Goldwing's as well as my Ultra Classic. So, I think you are all correct in advising me to go with a Spyder over a Ryker. Initially, I was thinking about getting a Polaris RZR, but I think a street ride would get more use overall. I love trail riding too. Had a RZR 900 but no longer. Wish I had it back. I don't wish for my Harley again, but I would surely love to have a nice street ride. No one advised me on the price of the F3-T I mentioned for 17K. It looks very nice. Is that about the best I could hope for price wise on a 2020 Spyder? I'll continue to look around. Renting one for a day is a good idea. I'll look into that. Thanks again to all of you.

Don Williams a.k.a. librarian

There is a trusted spyder seller on this forum ....IMotorsports .... click on their AD on the home page ..... they ship Spyders for free in the US. .... It will give you a good idea on what's out there and at what price .... PS Driving a Spyder is way different than any two wheeler .... as I said earlier just drive it like a car - using gentle inputs ....& test the brakes .....good luck ...Mike :thumbup:

 

[librarian]

I inquired about my local dealership's policy on older Spyders. They do not work on anything older than 10 years. This information is important to me. I'm in a rural area in Ohio. I live in Clinton County and the nearest cities of any size are Dayton and Cincinnati. I'll have to see what I can learn about independent shops who work on and are knowledgeable about older Spyders. If any of you have information on that for my area, it would be very much appreciated.

Don Williams a.k.a. librarian

 

[Texas Al]

Don for the price of an RT you can get 2 Ryker, one for each of you.

 

[BajaRon]

The 2013 RT might have been the worst Spyder BRP produced out of the box. Though the 2010 RT would certainly give it a run. But the truth is, both are great machines with some easily fixed, relatively minor engineering flaws that totally decimated these 2 models. Because they have such a bad reputation, you can usually get these 2 models for less than the identical (other year model) machines.

Shocks were very bad on both of these year models. The Evap Canister on all of the 2008-2012's was a dangerous disaster in engineering malpractice. The crankcase ventilation system on all the 998's was poorly designed and then you have the exposed, plastic slave cylinder issue on all the 2013 models. But all of these issues are easily and cheaply corrected. And some were addressed by BRP in recalls. The 2010 and 2013 RT's are great machines once these shortcomings are addressed. And you can usually come out money ahead in the bargan.

 

[MRH]

I dis-agree with test riding with TWO persons .... if the opr. has never driven any Spyder ... starting out with a passenger especially one that weighs 260 lbs. is asking for trouble ..... JMHO ....Mike :thumbup:

Agreed that he ought to be comfortable first, but there's no question in my mind that the ride two-up is where the advantages of the 1330 engine are most pronounced, and the only good way to evaluate that is to take a typical ride two-up. For me, there just wasn't enough power in the smaller engine, but that's a lot about the rider.

I inquired about my local dealership's policy on older Spyders. They do not work on anything older than 10 years. This information is important to me. I'm in a rural area in Ohio. I live in Clinton County and the nearest cities of any size are Dayton and Cincinnati. I'll have to see what I can learn about independent shops who work on and are knowledgeable about older Spyders. If any of you have information on that for my area, it would be very much appreciated.

Don Williams a.k.a. librarian

If that's the case, and it that holds for nearly identical Spyders made in different years (so they will work on 2021 RT at some point, but not on the virtually identical 2020), then you may really want to invest in a newer model. Also, there are examples of dealerships that stop selling Spyders, and then stop working on them altogether, even if they sold it you.

 

[librarian]

She will never want to drive one. I did think about though.

Don Williams a.k.a. Librarian

 

[Azbronco]

I agree with the Spyder comments. I bought a Ryker 900 when they first came out and loved it (after riding 2 wheels for a long time prior). But I view it as more a "run around town" type machine. I had the rear seat installed and it was comfortable for kids or small adults, but my wife didn't like sitting on the back and the machine struggled with two full sized adults. And I'm not gonna lie - I upgraded to the comfort seat, but I always hit my limit for the day around 80 miles because my backside couldn't take any more. I upgraded to a Spyder RT two years ago - no comparison. Now I can ride all day and my wife is perfectly comfortable on the back.

 

[Davgill2002]

Hello, I am 77 and ride a 1330 Spyder and my brother 68 rides a 998 (2012) Spyder. Before the 2023 I had a 2014 1330. I have had no maintenance issues on either 1330. On the other hand my brother has had constant maintenance repairs. Windshield linkage breakage, only replacement part is on ebay, constant parking brake malfunctions/warnings, constant breakage of front fender stays. If you do not catch the cracked broken fender stays in time, it results in a demolished fender, which are only available, in limited quanity, not color matched, and over priced, on ebay. BRP makes an upgraded (re-enforced & stronger) fender stay but they also are expensive ($40ish each and there are four for both fenders). On older models the shock springs start sagging, hence ground clearance is reduced, when this is combined with a heaver rider, bottoming out on driveway entryways becomes more frequent and produces stress cracks in the fiberglass front trunk. The 998 was notorious for acquiring oil leaks and overheating due to stuck or malfunctioning thermostat. The 998's all came with the outdated smaller diameter wheel, which makes replacement aftermarket tire choices limited. The 1330's have improved cooling, larger radiators etc. Heated grips no longer work, not the fuse, not the switch, not the relay. Looking expensive to regain heat. Mirrors vibrate and fall off, there are aftermarket stabilizer kits available Mileage sucks compared to the 1330 as does fuel range. BRP quit producing the 998 at the end of 2013 model year. Parts are starting to get scarce and many Can-Am dealers now refuse to work on them. If your handy mechanically and find a good unit, the price difference is compelling. I do most all the work for my brother for free. In the five years he has owned it I estimate shop repair would run between $3,000 - $5,000 if taken to a dealer. Thus if your mechanical, have the tools and facility, and check out the bike for all of the foregoing, go for it. In not I would be looking for a 2014 1330 or newer. The RTs have much better confort, reliability, and wind protection than the Ryker's. Ryker's have a snowmobile belt transmission (torque converter) that has a comparatively short life. RT's come with a 6-sp manual or semi-automatic transmission, and are much smoother riding. Hope this helps.

 

[solidgranite]

I'm a little older than you. I've had my Spyder RT SE5 for about 8 years. It's a 2012 with lots of mileage. I know zip zero about the Ryker, but the Spyder RT is a fantastic machine. I can't ride a 2 wheeler any more (bum knee), but the Spyder doesn't require me to hold it up at stop lights, etc. You and your lady friend will be able to go on LONG rides, and not feel totally wiped out at the end. The passenger seat is luxurious and comfortable. Whether you get the 998 CC or the 1300 CC engine, I'm sure it will give you all the power you'll need. Happy riding!

 

[Chebber]

There was a recall on the 2013 RT heat issues, and by now, most 2013's (and quite a few earlier and later models too ) have had that recall done - it involved removing the excessive sound deadening material from under the tupperware and adding two large air intakes, one on either side below the mirrors where other RT models usually have little clear 'mini-windscreen' style winglets to keep the rain off your knees!! Once you see a Spyder with those intakes fitted, it becomes an obvious and an easy way to tell if the Heat Recall has been done! :2thumbs:

The reason that there was excessive heat collected under the tupperware so that the recall became essential was that the 2013 RT was meant to be released with the 1330 Triple engines, an engine that's wider rather than long, like the V-Twins are; but cos the 1330 motors weren't ready in time, BRP stuffed the V-Twin back into a hole and a bike with suspension & brakes that'd been upgraded to take the wider, heavier, torquier but lazier motors; all of which messed with the air flow around the engine & created a heat trap under the tupperware!! :banghead:

BUT, that still means that apart from the (lazier but torquier motor) the 2013's got ALL the other upgrades, including frame improvements that made for better ride & handling; Brembo Brakes that massively improved the braking; and a heap more besides, effectively making the 2013 RT's with the Heat Recall work done, and in fact all the 2013+ V-Twin powered Spyders with the Heat Recall work done (the Heat Recall was a non-mandatory minor panel change on the other models, but you could still get RSS & ST V-Twins up until about 2016 ) arguably by far the pick of the V-Twins, and for many, especially those who appreciate the revvier, peppier, far more responsive and exciting when teamed with their better handling due to their lighter weight, the absolute best choice of Spyder's to own & ride!! hyea:

As for not getting parts, besides some obvious panel changes, not too much in the frame & driveline has changed since 2013, and there are a growing number of V-Twin powered Spyders out there with over 150,000 mainly trouble-free miles, some with well over 200,000 miles; many of them being those 2013+ models which have all the goodies intended for the 1330 release without the imposition of the lazier, less exciting to ride/operate 1330 motor!! Besides, given a little mechanical sympathy and some relatively easy to do basic maintenance, the V-Twin Rotax engine is pretty much indestructible! nojoke

So the 2013+ V-Twin powered Spyders are arguably the pick of the crop, and unless you're looking at buying a 'maintenance neglected' really high milage 2013+ V-Twin powered Spyder, or maybe one that's done too few miles (ie, anything less than an average of about 2-3000 miles per year, which means it's been spending a lot of time just sitting around & deteriorating! :sour: ) you will be fairly unlikely to have any engine issues, and many of other important parts are still in use or available elsewhere anyway!! AND there's a growing number of really competent Spyder Techs out there who are no longer working for & so fettered by BRP's slavish & pointless restrictions on what they can do &/or fit too, so with any luck, you won't even hafta do all the (relatively easy) general maintenance yourself either!! :lecturef_smilie:

Personally, I wouldn't discount ANY of the non-1330 models as a great, cost effective start for a newbie Spyder Ryder/owner; and by preference, I'd always go for one of the 2013 & on V-Twin Spyder models that's had the Heat Recall work done over any 1330 model anyway, simply cos the V-Twins have enough creature comforts without all the fragile & unnecessary digital crap & useless fripperies and they've got all the good mods & brakes etc; plus, BRP hasn't yet come up with a package that's sufficiently exciting or as much fun to ride that it stands any chance of enticing me away from my 2013 RT!! And to top it all off, you can get an ECU Upgrade that'll make any of the V-Twins more powerful and almost as economical as the 1330's too, all within the proven safety & reliability limits of the engine/trans as used in other platforms, with the exception that you will still be a little restricted in the ultimate potential range by the pre-1330's smaller gas tank, but then again, that smaller tank (20 useable litres vs 24 useable litres ) does help reduce the overall weight and adds even more to the V-Twin's 'get up and get outta here' fun & capability! hyea:

There's a lot going for any of the 2013 & on V-Twin Spyders, especially as a cost effective 'First Spyder'! :lecturef_smilie:

Just Sayin' And despite having done more miles than many owners on 1330 powered Spyders, I'm STILL enjoying the heck outta my 2013 RT so much that it'd take a helluva lot to drag me kicking and screaming off it and onto one of those lesser, lazier, & odd sounding 1330 powered models on a permanent basis! hyea:

I love my 2013 EXCEPT for the heat on my right leg. I've read about blocking that air output but I'm afraid of my bike overheating if I do. Have you done a modification for it? Thanks.

 

[Mikey]

I love my 2013 EXCEPT for the heat on my right leg. I've read about blocking that air output but I'm afraid of my bike overheating if I do. Have you done a modification for it? Thanks.

Has your bike got the heat mod done? Does it have two air scoops on both sides of the windshield? I took the cover plate underneath the bike on the right-side belly pan, that will help some! I think you can still find that air scoop mod out there to buy!

 

[Chebber]

Has your bike got the heat mod done? Does it have two air scoops on both sides of the windshield? I took the cover plate underneath the bike on the right-side belly pan, that will help some! I think you can still find that air scoop mod out there to buy!

Hi Mikey. She has had the heat mod with the scoops done. I had the right cover plate off and there's a hose attached to something. I wasn't sure about removing that, so I screwed the plate back on. I've read where people block off the upper hole and drill holes underneath to release heat. I wonder about the long term effect of doing that. Smoaks says it could burn up your water pump.