Please help me clarify my Belt tension concerns?

[Donnieshacks]

I know this has been covered a lot, but I have a few questions that I haven't seen an answer for. 2019 RTL with 2040 miles. Bought it private party. In great shape. Anyway, it has a slight whining noise when I shift gears up or down but mostly up. Doesn't bother me nor is it so loud that it drowns out the radio. I had a 2018 and did not hear this.

I have a slight vibration getting on the highway; again, not a huge deal but my 2018 had the same and a belt tensioner fixed it completely. So... I just added one tonight. Haven't driven it yet. I noticed that the belt is really tight by hand. No way I can get a 90 degree turn or even 45 by hand. It looks smack in the middle on the rear sprocket. Didn't look at the front pulley. There's no recall on my front sprocket and visually it looks fine, no red dust at all. I understand that I need to get the tension checked accurately and not by hand. I have a kriket on the way and plan on checking it with the wheels on the ground. Even if the kriket is not 100%, I'm sure it will be close enough so I can get an idea. I've read a lot about whining noises, front pulley recall, vibrations etc. Nothing as of now is bothering me, but I definitely want to make sure the tension is not set too high. Questions:

If the belt tension is too high, can I adjust that alone, and with the wheels on the ground? (And not loosening the side nuts)

Does the belt tensioner add a lot of additional tension to the belt?

Will simply lowering the tension affect the tracking? I don't want to mess with that because it seems perfect. At least from the rear sprocket.

I'm also assuming when people say right or left side, they mean if you are looking at the Spyder from the rear tire to the front not the opposite right?

Thanks in advance.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I know this has been covered a lot, but I have a few questions that I haven't seen an answer for. 2019 RTL with 2040 miles. Bought it private party. In great shape. Anyway, it has a slight whining noise when I shift gears up or down but mostly up. Doesn't bother me nor is it so loud that it drowns out the radio. I had a 2018 and did not hear this.

I have a slight vibration getting on the highway; again, not a huge deal but my 2018 had the same and a belt tensioner fixed it completely. So... I just added one tonight. Haven't driven it yet. I noticed that the belt is really tight by hand. No way I can get a 90 degree turn or even 45 by hand. It looks smack in the middle on the rear sprocket. Didn't look at the front pulley. There's no recall on my front sprocket and visually it looks fine, no red dust at all. I understand that I need to get the tension checked accurately and not by hand. I have a kriket on the way and plan on checking it with the wheels on the ground. Even if the kriket is not 100%, I'm sure it will be close enough so I can get an idea. I've read a lot about whining noises, front pulley recall, vibrations etc. Nothing as of now is bothering me, but I definitely want to make sure the tension is not set too high. Questions:

If the belt tension is too high, can I adjust that alone, and with the wheels on the ground? (And not loosening the side nuts)

Does the belt tensioner add a lot of additional tension to the belt?

Will simply lowering the tension affect the tracking? I don't want to mess with that because it seems perfect. At least from the rear sprocket.

I'm also assuming when people say right or left side, they mean if you are looking at the Spyder from the rear tire to the front not the opposite right?

Thanks in advance.

I have my belt tension at 160 lbs ... measured with a KriKit (?) ....wheels ON_THE_GROUND and no tensioner ... I don't have any vibes ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Mikey]

I would suggest watching a couple videos on this or find a friend that has done the job before. But to answer some of your questions, If your tensions to high or low you have to loosen the axle shaft to make a adjustment. If you have good alignment on your belt, and that should be about a 2mm, or a credit card away from the flange of the rear sprocket, then you will have to turn your adjusters both in or out the same turns to make your tension correct, if you don't do this it will mess up your belt alinement. And one of the big things to check before you tighten the axle is to make sure your caps on the adjusters are not loose before you tighten the axle up, if they are loose you have to put your wrench over the nut on the side that is loose and hit the end of your wrench with a hammer check for tightness and tighten the nut when the cap's tight. When people talk about left and right, it's from sitting in the seat, left or right!! The job that you are about to try is frustrating as all get out your first time and you are going to chase your tail back and forth, but say with it and you'll get it, and remember one thing, a little turn on the adjuster makes a big change, work with eighth, to quarter turns at a time!! Watch a couple video's!!!!

 

[Donnieshacks]

I would suggest watching a couple videos on this or find a friend that has done the job before. But to answer some of your questions, If your tensions to high or low you have to loosen the axle shaft to make a adjustment. If you have good alignment on your belt, and that should be about a 2mm, or a credit card away from the flange of the rear sprocket, then you will have to turn your adjusters both in or out the same turns to make your tension correct, if you don't do this it will mess up your belt alinement. And one of the big things to check before you tighten the axle is to make sure your caps on the adjusters are not loose before you tighten the axle up, if they are loose you have to put your wrench over the nut on the side that is loose and hit the end of your wrench with a hammer check for tightness and tighten the nut when the cap's tight. When people talk about left and right, it's from sitting in the seat, left or right!! The job that you are about to try is frustrating as all get out your first time and you are going to chase your tail back and forth, but say with it and you'll get it, and remember one thing, a little turn on the adjuster makes a big change, work with eighth, to quarter turns at a time!! Watch a couple video's!!!!

I appreciate the feedback. I'm not going to adjust the belt myself. I already know that. I've done several upgrades myself and I'm more confident in working on it myself, partly because I hate paying and I hate bringing it to a dealer. That said, I'll take it somewhere to get the belt inspected and adjusted. I will at least test the tension with the Krickit when I get it to see what it is. I should take a picture of the belt on the rear sprocket for input. It looks smack in the center. It has maybe 1/16 to 1/8" on each side of the sprocket. Haven't looked at the front pulley but it's centered perfectly from my eyes, on the rear. I'm thinking that's where it should be. Anyway, I appreciate the feedback. I just don't want any bearing failures because of the belt being way too tight. I'm hoping the faint whining sound is not a bearing noise. I won't jump to conclusions at this point.

 

[Isopedella]

Um.

I picked up one of these.



To use the Krikit is to place it on the belt and push it down.

To adjust is not that hard.

Here are some videos for ya.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DZYfYFccAM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0_Ewxr7qwqo

 

[Donnieshacks]

Thank you. I have one on order. I also looked at a few videos. I say I'm going to bring to a dealer but the more I think about it, I'll probably do it myself. I don't think the belt needs a lot of correction. I mostly think it's too tight.

 

[canamjhb]

Couple of comments...... The dealers I used in the past were not aware of the, now very old, Technical Service Bulletin that greatly lowered belt tension to help with vibrations. For some unknown reason BRP keeps printing the old tension specs. in the manual and that's what Greasy Gary at your dealership looks at. I encourage you to do your research and bring that information with you when you have your belt serviced. That information IS on this forum.

Also, what you are calling a "belt tensioner" is not a tensioner at all. It is, in fact. a damper. It's designed to reduce belt vibration. It's purpose is not to add tension the belt. Good luck..... Jim

 

[Isopedella]

Excellent. Spend ya cash on fuel. :2thumbs:

The new tool will show the tension, not to an inth degree but works well for this application.

I popped a dollop of clear silicone on my plastic caps while I was there as I get out and about a bit and may lose one while off the tar.

Always chock those front wheels. :lecturef_smilie:

Late edit.

I forgot to mention that if you do this Nanny will get upset as the rear wheel has been spinning without the front ones turning, and that might put up a fault code.

Don't despair, like I did. :yikes: :gaah: It cleared by itself in a bike length or so when driven. hyea: Whew.

 

[Donnieshacks]

I've heard that. I'm not afraid of some nanny.

 

[Donnieshacks]

I appreciate the answer about the belt tensioner/dampener. I was was wondering if it added any tension. There's a little vibration and I know the tensioner will squash it. It did on my 2018. I just wanna make sure the belt isn't so tight that it's stressing any bearings. It's got 2250 miles and I hope to have the bike for a long time.

 

[Navydad]

According to my Krikit my belt is at 190 with both wheels on the ground and I have no vibes. I tried the 160 that many are using, and I had bad vibes right at the 60mph range. 190 cured that. My point being is that you have leeway as to your tension, but it can be too tight. In my opinion (for what that's worth) I wouldn't go over the 190. As far as alignment you may have to play with it a bit to get what you want. Remember to make VERY SMALL adjustments with the alignment bolts. As small as an eighth of a turn can give you the amount needed. Yes, the left and right are looking at the bike from the rear or as many say sitting on the bike.

 

[Donnieshacks]

According to my Kricket my belt is at 190 with both wheels on the ground and I have no vibes. I tried the 160 that many are using and I had bad vibes right at the 60mph range. 190 cured that. My point being is that you have leeway as to your tension, but it can be too tight. In my opinion (for what that's worth) I wouldn't go over the 190. As far as alignment you will may have to play with it a bit to get what you want. Remember to make VERY SMALL adjustments with the alignment bolts. As small as an eighth of a turn can give you the amount needed. Yes the left and right are looking at the bike from the rear or as many say sitting on the bike.

Thanks. I'm in the camp that believes in the belt tensioner. Mines installed but thr panels aren't put back on the bike yet. I won't wrap it up till I get the kricket and check the tension. The tensioner will take care of any vibes. Thanks for the 190 advice. I know there's leeway so if I see 160 to 190 I won't touch it. The bike makes a slight whine when shifting and my 2018 did not. This noise doesn't bother me but I'm paying attention so there aren't any bearing problems. I'm not sure if belt misalignment can put stress on bearings like tension does but from the back sprocket, it's dead center.

 

[K80Shooter]

According to my Kricket my belt is at 190 with both wheels on the ground and I have no vibes. I tried the 160 that many are using and I had bad vibes right at the 60mph range. 190 cured that. My point being is that you have leeway as to your tension, but it can be too tight. In my opinion (for what that's worth) I wouldn't go over the 190. As far as alignment you will may have to play with it a bit to get what you want. Remember to make VERY SMALL adjustments with the alignment bolts. As small as an eighth of a turn can give you the amount needed. Yes the left and right are looking at the bike from the rear or as many say sitting on the bike.

I also found that mine likes the 190 better than the 160. Trial and error.

 

[Donnieshacks]

I also found that mine likes the 190 better than the 160. Trial and error.

Here's a pic of the rear sprocket.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Here's a pic of the rear sprocket.

If you look closely at that pic you've provided, you can see that there's actually juuust a smidge of a gap between the belt edge & the pulley! So if the belt tension is in the right ball-park, & the vibration doesn't bother you too much, I wouldn't touch that belt JUST to change the belt being that close to the pulley... Well, not unless there's indications/witness marks that we can't see in the pic that are visible on the pulley showing that the belt is pressing too hard on that shoulder & the belt's trying to climb up it, &/or there's signs of excessive wear/possibly overheating on the edge of the belt that's hard up against the shoulder! :lecturef_smilie:

When it comes to belt alignment, getting the tension in the right ball-park is far more critical than getting the alignment EXACTLY correct; and really, you only need to make sure that while moving in any direction, the belt isn't climbing or wearing excessively on the shoulder on the inside edge, &/or that it's not walking off the outside edge. Anything else is pretty much OK, and if you wanted to bother with mounting a camera over that belt to watch what it does while you ride, I reckon that you'd be quite surprised at HOW MUCH the belt moves on the pulley anyway! :shocked:

So unless there's some other reason for adjusting it & there's no signs that the belt is being compromised by being that close, I'd recommend you simply leave well enough alone! A few years back, I ran for basically the whole year & about 30,000 miles with my 2013 RT's belt looking very much like yours does in that pic, and that belt is still going strong with NO signs of adverse wear, despite it now being many miles and quite a few years later! :thumbup:

Just Sayin' :cheers:

 

[Navydad]

:agree: with Peter. If tension isn't tight and the dampener works for you then leave it alone. Your alignment is great on that rear pulley.

 

[K80Shooter]

I know this has been covered a lot, but I have a few questions that I haven't seen an answer for. 2019 RTL with 2040 miles. Bought it private party. In great shape. Anyway, it has a slight whining noise when I shift gears up or down but mostly up. Doesn't bother me nor is it so loud that it drowns out the radio. I had a 2018 and did not hear this.

The noise is normal on the newer Spyders 2020 and up.

I have a slight vibration getting on the highway; again, not a huge deal but my 2018 had the same and a belt tensioner fixed it completely. So... I just added one tonight. Haven't driven it yet. I noticed that the belt is really tight by hand. No way I can get a 90 degree turn or even 45 by hand. It looks smack in the middle on the rear sprocket. Didn't look at the front pulley. There's no recall on my front sprocket and visually it looks fine, no red dust at all. I understand that I need to get the tension checked accurately and not by hand. I have a krikit on the way and plan on checking it with the wheels on the ground. Even if the krikit is not 100%, I'm sure it will be close enough so I can get an idea. I've read a lot about whining noises, front pulley recall, vibrations etc. Nothing as of now is bothering me, but I definitely want to make sure the tension is not set too high. Questions:

Did the dampener fix this?

If the belt tension is too high, can I adjust that alone, and with the wheels on the ground? (And not loosening the side nuts)

Yes but the wheel has to be off the ground and axle shaft loosened. So Yes & No

Does the belt tensioner add a lot of additional tension to the belt?

It does not add tension, just a constant pressure to keep the belt from vibrating. I do raise the dampener when setting the pressure. I also check the pressure with the rear tire on the ground.

Will simply lowering the tension affect the tracking? I don't want to mess with that because it seems perfect. At least from the rear sprocket.

Not if it's done correctly.

I'm also assuming when people say right or left side, they mean if you are looking at the Spyder from the rear tire to the front not the opposite right?

On ANY vehicle, left and right side is determined as if you are sitting in/on the drivers seat (facing forward of course :thumbup

Thanks in advance.

I agree with Peter & Navydad, the belt looks perfect as is. Another thing, anytime you look at the belt make sure that you have traveled in a straight line for a bit. If you have just turned into your garage or parking space it will not be correct.

 

[Donnieshacks]

I agree with Peter & Navydad, the belt looks perfect as is. Another thing, anytime you look at the belt make sure that you have traveled in a straight line for a bit. If you have just turned into your garage or parking space it will not be correct.

My belt tensioner is installed. I haven't put the Tupperware back because I want to check the belt tension first. If it's not crazy tight I will leave it alone. I'd much rather not adjust the belt at all. Maybe the dampener itself took care of the whine, I don't know yet. Just from what I've heard, my belt seems too tight. I know the 45 degree or 90 degree twist of the belt with your fingers is not an accurate way to measure tension, but I couldn't do either if I tried. This belt is tight. I don't want any bearing issues. Not now or 10k miles from now.

I know the belt tracks fine. It's just the tension that probably needs to come down. If it's 190 or less I probably won't touch it. I just get the feeling it isn't. I'll know by Monday.

 

[Mikey]

Just make it a habit to check that wheel on that thing from time to time, like when you change the oil, because if the bearings go, you'll have bigger problems than a whine, or vibration.

 

[K80Shooter]

My belt tensioner is installed. I haven't put the Tupperware back because I want to check the belt tension first. If it's not crazy tight I will leave it alone. I'd much rather not adjust the belt at all. Maybe the dampener itself took care of the whine, I don't know yet. Just from what I've heard, my belt seems too tight. I know the 45 degree or 90 degree twist of the belt with your fingers is not an accurate way to measure tension, but I couldn't do either if I tried. This belt is tight. I don't want any bearing issues. Not now or 10k miles from now.

I know the belt tracks fine. It's just the tension that probably needs to come down. If it's 190 or less I probably won't touch it. I just get the feeling it isn't. I'll know by Monday.

Check it with the wheel on the ground and the dampener off of the belt; either just lift it up, or tie it up. Once you get it back together, ride it for about 2,000 miles and see how you feel then, nothing will be hurt by doing this.

Just be careful adjusting the tension if you go that route. Turn each adjuster the "exact" same amount or you'll throw off the belt tracking. Also do a lot of research on here about adjusting it, as the axle nut takes a lot of torque to get it tightened. If you're not careful, the wheel/swingarm will twist slightly and throw off the tracking also. That's why I do the final tightening with the wheel on the ground.