2020 RTL Seat strut barely holds the seat open - ideas?

[KX5062]

I've grown tired of fighting with the seat on my 2020 RTL too, so I'll try the K80 method.

Thanks, Shooter for the part numbers. I've ordered them and will post up my results and observations.

 

[KX5062]

Okay, I got and installed the parts. They work well, nothing super dramatic, it just works. The seat will now lift on its own and stay up when fueling, which it never did. Adding the plastic tip vs the OEM pot metal bracket tip is a nice extra touch. It does lift the seat slightly higher and thus makes fueling easier. Thanks again, Shooter, for taking the lead in this fix.

 

[latino4decker]

Thank you, very valuable information @K80Shooter! :clap:
My parts are on order to make this fix.
Happy Thanksgiving!

Huey

 

[AZviejo]

Thanks to all who replied and suggestions for sources I hadn't thought of. My belt tensioner from Lamonster should arrive in the next couple of days, which will necessitate removing the same panels needed to access the strut and take measurements. If I find a replacement I'll be sure to post the info.

I found it unnecessary to pull off any panels to get the strut off. I ordered the replacement strut . referenced elsewhere in the thread from McMaster Carr. after it came I removed the worthless one this way. First I removed the back seat back pad. Then removed the rear seat. At this point the top of the strut is visible. I removed the 8mm screw holding the top of the strut and removed it from the plastic pin on the front seat. I now was able to flip the front seat all the way over into the rear seat space. now looking down, one can see the bottom of the strut mounted on the ball pin below. using a long skinny screwdriver, i slipped the blade into the slot on the back of the ball clamp and pulled the spring clip away from the back of the strut and easily pried the mount off the ball and pulled it out from the top. putting the new one in was this procedure done in reverse.

sure beats having to remove any Tupperware. Just have to mess with the seats. Just need an 8mm wrench, a long screwdriver with a skinny blade, and a flashlight. I hope this helps any of you fine folks out there. If it helps even one, i'm a happy old man!

Mark

 

[Peter Aawen]

I found it unnecessary to pull off any panels to get the strut off. I ordered the replacement strut . referenced elsewhere in the thread from McMaster Carr. after it came I removed the worthless one this way. First I removed the back seat back pad. Then removed the rear seat. At this point the top of the strut is visible. I removed the 8mm screw holding the top of the strut and removed it from the plastic pin on the front seat. I now was able to flip the front seat all the way over into the rear seat space. now looking down, one can see the bottom of the strut mounted on the ball pin below. using a long skinny screwdriver, i slipped the blade into the slot on the back of the ball clamp and pulled the spring clip away from the back of the strut and easily pried the mount off the ball and pulled it out from the top. putting the new one in was this procedure done in reverse.

sure beats having to remove any Tupperware. Just have to mess with the seats. Just need an 8mm wrench, a long screwdriver with a skinny blade, and a flashlight. I hope this helps any of you fine folks out there. If it helps even one, i'm a happy old man!

Mark

ldpost: ALWAYS check the date of the thread & posts before replying Mark, ESPECIALLY that of the first post in the thread AND the date of the last few posts in the thread - your info certainly might be helpful to others searching in the future, so thanks for that :thumbup: Buuut, I doubt it'll actually benefit Iceman now, seeing that he posted what you quoted almost a year ago, so he's probably waaayy past pulling those panels

 

[AZviejo]

ldpost: ALWAYS check the date of the thread & posts before replying Mark, ESPECIALLY that of the first post in the thread AND the date of the last few posts in the thread - your info certainly might be helpful to others searching in the future, so thanks for that :thumbup: Buuut, I doubt it'll actually benefit Iceman now, seeing that he posted what you quoted almost a year ago, so he's probably waaayy past pulling those panels

Sorry, im a n00b here.

 

[FINFAN3DP]

Why not get a new one under warranty?

I just did this recently. They fixed the seat one and the trunk one. Both work great now, and didn't cost me a dime. Now I have to get her back in there for this new recall, and have them install the Belt Tensioner I just bought from Lamonster.

 

[chipveres]

Has anyone replaced the gas strut on their '20 or '21 RTL? Mine barely holds the seat open with nothing on it. I have a Butt Buffer and have to take it off everytime I fuel.
The original strut was shot when I got home with the Spyder brand new. How the dealership missed this is beyond me, as the tank was full. I didn't write down the info on the replacement strut or take measurements, but if no one has info on a stronger strut I'll start removing Tupperware.

As usual, I have a different approach to the problem. I just disconnected the top of the strut and left everything else in place. Put the screw back in the plastic hinge so it doesn't wind up in a tire. The seat now folds back until it hits the trunk, but that's no problem. Eventually something else will motivate me to take the plastic off the left side and I will completely remove the strut.

Chip
2020 RTL
"Stella by Starlight"

EDIT: When I did this, I had the passenger seat off for other repairs. With the pax seat back on, the driver's seat only opens about 12 inches. I cut a segment of old broom handle to hold it open during refueling. I stored the handle in the organizer at the back of the frunk between uses.

 

[Adventurer]

As usual, I have a different approach to the problem. I just disconnected the top of the strut and left everything else in place. Put the screw back in the plastic hinge so it doesn't wind up in a tire. The seat now folds back until it hits the trunk, but that's no problem. Eventually something else will motivate me to take the plastic off the left side and I will completely remove the strut.

Chip
2020 RTL
"Stella by Starlight"

I put the external spring on mine and it works fine but I think I may try what Chip did, why not get it completely out of the way.

 

[USAF]

I ordered the replacement strut . referenced elsewhere in the thread from McMaster Carr.

What is the part number for the one You ordered ?

 

[bikerbillone]

Dealer replaced mine free, but it might be less of a hassle to buy one and install it. That's what I would do
if I did a do over. Sometimes it's a pain with dealers, and who knows if the dealer replacement is gonna last?

 

[WingmanRT]

I followed someone's (can't remember who) advice from this forum. We had two 2020 RTs with this problem.

1.) removed the panels,
2.) took out the strut,
3.) wound a compression spring (purchased beforehand - you want one heavy enough to put pressure on the strut fully extended, but not so heavy as to not allow the strut to compress almost all of the way down. Finding the right compression spring was more art than science. Try Ace hardware. ) around the extension arm of the strut and
4.) replaced the strut and panels.
Works like a champ. Cost about $4. (and and hour or two of my time).

Steve O. from Honda of Winston-Salem replaced one of ours (using an ice-pick-like tool with a 90 degree bend at the very end) in about 30 seconds. He removed the two outside panels, unscrewed the the top bolt of the strut, stuck the pick in one of the slots in the black plastic panel under the outer Tupperware (avoiding taking off the black plastic panel), used the pick to pull the clip holding the strut in, pulled out the strut, replaced it, replaced all the panels and did it in less time than it took me to type this.

 

[Davgill2002]

Thank you for this thread. I ordered the suggested shock & eye kit for my 2023 S2S.

 

[Escorial]

2020 RTL Riders seat (not staying up) Passenger seat removal questions

Bike has 1,700 miles on ii. I noticed that the rider's seat will not stay up when filling gas tank. Could temperatures affect this?

I can not even see how to remove the riders seat nor the passengers one. They are the heated ones. Any clear pix or videos on how to do this?

From what I can see the ram is on the left side and goes down into the chassis but do not know where?

Also I have read that you may be better off getting a replacement ram for the riders seat from a auto parts store? Anyone have a part number for a replacement ram?

My bike is still under the extended warranty to there is a $50 deductible, if I had the ram replaced with a Can am oem one would the replacement be any better?

I can see the ram (see pix)

 

[chipveres]

A couple of disparate suggestions: We use 9 inches cut off an old broomstick and stored in the left saddlebag. Just prop the seat open when fueling. Replacement gas springs are available from McMaster-Carr. I took a quick look at their prices and it seems like you could save money by dealing with them. Also you could opt for "next strongest" rather than a direct replacement. Where the strut goes becomes obvious when you take the left side panels off the cycle.

To remove the pax seat, start by removing the pivot bolts at the rear of the driver's seat. Now that you have a clear field of action, you can barely see two plastic clips that hold down the front of the pax seat. Push them gently to the rear while lifting up on the front edge of the seat. It's hard to see and nearly impossible to photograph because everything is black on black. Having once seen it, you will discover that it is possible to remove the pax seat by merely opening the driver's seat without totally removing it.

 

[Escorial]

Thanks

 

[Bob L]

Mine did the same thing (I have since bought a Corbin seat). BUT before that I bought this size spring (see photo). You unhook one end of the seat piston, push the spring down over the piston and reconnect the piston... and the seat will stay up while fueling! I cannot take credit for this idea, I got it here on the Spyder Lovers message board!

 

[chipveres]

Mine did the same thing (I have since bought a Corbin seat). BUT before that I bought this size spring (see photo). You unhook one end of the seat piston, push the spring down over the piston and reconnect the piston... and the seat will stay up while fueling! I cannot take credit for this idea, I got it here on the Spyder Lovers message board!

View attachment 203268

That's a capital idea and easy to install as well.

 

[kamper]

I did the spring also. Best 5 bucks spent in a while.

 

[Edspyderrt2020]

Ok I have what I think is a suitable work around. Regardless of what Suspa stated in a email to me I did find one that works great. Suspa C16-14870 it is a 30# strut. I also was able to get the bottom and top ends off of the old strut so you can simply just use them if you want to.

I did replace the top link with another one which gave me about a 1/4" more lift at the stud which translated to a good bit of lift at the front of the seat. I like this better as you will have a little more room to fill it with gas.

Here's the best price that I found and as always with them I received them the next day. I'm sure this will vary depending on where you are located. Freight was a little under $8.00 so that also is reasonable.

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/127/1374 Part # 9416K14 in 30# You can choose another if you wish but it might break the plastic stud if there's too much pressure on it.

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/127/1376 The eyelet end that I used is a 6465K26 it is plastic but works great. You can always use the old one.

Here's on showing the extra length I got with the new eyelet end.
View attachment 190978

Here's one showing the new strut installed.
View attachment 190979

Here's one of just the new eyelet
View attachment 190980

Here's one of the seat lifted
View attachment 190981

Great news! Does the ball end come on that strut?