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2013 SM5 - Clutch not working after oil change - any ideas?

davehampton

davehampton

New member
I had been riding my 2013 Spyder RT SM5 for several months with no problems at all. Then, rather than waiting 2 months for the local Can Am dealer to get to it, I changed the oil myself. I followed the service guidelines explicitly except for the oil. I installed a new OEM oil filter, but opted for an oil from O'Reilly's formulated specifically for motorcycles with wet clutches rather than the XPS brand suggested by BRP. After warming the Spyder up to confirm the oil level I attempted to do a test ride, however; the clutch did not operate properly. It appeared to not be disengaging the engine and it was almost impossible to shift into gear. When I did get it into first gear it killed the engine. My first thought was the oil since that was the only variable from a Spyder with no shifting problems. So I ordered a complete new XPS oil change kit from the Can Am store, drained the oil and new filter I had just installed, and went through the oil change process again with the XPS oil. Unfortunately, I encountered the same shifting problem. The engine runs fine, but when I shift into a gear it kills the engine, like shifting from a dead stop with no clutch activation at all. My fear is the clutch is now toast, but I can't imagine using a highly regarded oil rather than the XPS brand would create such a problem, especially since I didn't even ride the bike after the oil change. The only other shifting related issue I can think of is when removing the fairing I had to depress the shift pedal a couple of times (with the engine off of course) to access a bolt. I presented this conundrum to the dealership service department in Louisville, TN where the Spyder came from, as well as the local dealer. Neither had a clue as to what the problem may be. I thought I would take a shot on the forum to see if anyone else might have a valid suggestion prior to hauling it off to a very expensive service visit. By the way, I have been riding since I was 15 and have eight motorcycles. I have restored and/or customized all of them except this Spyder so I do know a little bit about wrench turning, but this Spyder is quite a different beast. Any help would be vastly appreciated.
Thanks much!!
 
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davehampton said:
I had been riding my 2013 Spyder RT SE5 for several months with no problems at all. Then, rather than waiting 2 months for the local Can Am dealer to get to it, I changed the oil myself. I followed the service guidelines explicitly except for the oil. I installed a new OEM oil filter, but opted for an oil from O'Reilly's formulated specifically for motorcycles with wet clutches rather than the XPS brand suggested by BRP. After warming the Spyder up to confirm the oil level I attempted to do a test ride, however; the clutch did not operate properly. It appeared to not be disengaging the engine and it was almost impossible to shift into gear. When I did get it into first gear it killed the engine. My first thought was the oil since that was the only variable from a Spyder with no shifting problems. So I ordered a complete new XPS oil change kit from the Can Am store, drained the oil and new filter I had just installed, and went through the oil change process again with the XPS oil. Unfortunately, I encountered the same shifting problem. The engine runs fine, but when I shift into a gear it kills the engine, like shifting from a dead stop with no clutch activation at all. My fear is the clutch is now toast, but I can't imagine using a highly regarded oil rather than the XPS brand would create such a problem, especially since I didn't even ride the bike after the oil change. The only other shifting related issue I can think of is when removing the fairing I had to depress the shift pedal a couple of times (with the engine off of course) to access a bolt. I presented this conundrum to the dealership service department in Louisville, TN where the Spyder came from, as well as the local dealer. Neither had a clue as to what the problem may be. I thought I would take a shot on the forum to see if anyone else might have a valid suggestion prior to hauling it off to a very expensive service visit. By the way, I have been riding since I was 15 and have eight motorcycles. I have restored and/or customized all of them except this Spyder so I do know a little bit about wrench turning, but this Spyder is quite a different beast. Any help would be vastly appreciated.
Thanks much!!
Click to expand...

:welcome: ....:agree: that XPS is not the only oil that will work in your V-twin. I don't use it either ..... What Exactly did you use for oil. ????? ... it will help us help you ..... Mike :thumbup:.....
 
MasterPro Motorcycle oil, synthetic blend 10W-40.

oreillyOil.jpg


Sorry...misprint on original text - should be 10W-40.
 
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It's not the oil. It has to be something in the hydraulic clutch not disengaging. How does the clutch lever feel? Soft or spongy? Does it go a ways before you feel resistance?
 
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davehampton said:
MasterPro Motorcycle oil, synthetic blend 10W-40.

View attachment 199377


Sorry, misprint on original text - should be 10W-40.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I see it's rated JASO 2, so that is good oil (actually, it's better than XPS.) I read Ron's post - I don't think it's possible to put it in backwards (I have the 1330 engine so yours may be different?) :dontknow: ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
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I replaced the oil filter, not the HCM filter. I admit to ignorance regarding the Spyder mechanics since I have not really explored them in detail. My Spyder has a manual transmission, and I was not even sure it had an HCM filter since it was not included in the oil change kit from the Can Am store. Anyway, at this juncture, I can't see where an HCM factored in here since I obviously did not touch it. Any ideas??
 
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davehampton said:
I replaced the oil filter, not the HCM filter. I admit to ignorance regarding the Spyder mechanics since I have not really explored them in detail. My Spyder has a manual transmission, and I was not even sure it had an HCM filter since it was not included in the oil change kit from the Can Am store. Anyway, at this juncture, I can't see where an HCM factored in here since I obviously did not touch it. Any ideas??
Click to expand...



Just to clarify, when you started this thread the heading says you have a " 2013 Spyder RT SE5 Clutch problem " - Now you say you have a MANUAL transmission. An SE5 is a Semi-Auto transmission. So all of us are now confused ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
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He mentioned that he has a "shift pedal, must be an SM-5... My bet is that its low on clutch fluid and needs bleeding.
 
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I would like to apologize to everyone - my mistake when I get in a hurry. The Spyder is an SM5. The clutch bleeding suggestion sounds like a good one, the clutch play is kind of sloppy. I will check it. It just seems weird that would become an issue when it wasn't apparent before the oil change.
 
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davehampton said:
I would like to apologize to everyone - my mistake when I get in a hurry. The Spyder is an SM5. The clutch bleeding suggestion sounds like a good one, the clutch play is kind of sloppy. I will check it. It just seems weird that would become an issue when it wasn't apparent before the oil change.
Click to expand...

Probably needs new packings or O-rings in the clutch slave cylinder, if that hasn't been done since purchased. They do wear out!
 
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davehampton said:
I had been riding my 2013 Spyder RT SE5 for several months with no problems at all. Then, rather than waiting 2 months for the local Can Am dealer to get to it, I changed the oil myself. I followed the service guidelines explicitly except for the oil. I installed a new OEM oil filter, but opted for an oil from O'Reilly's formulated specifically for motorcycles with wet clutches rather than the XPS brand suggested by BRP. After warming the Spyder up to confirm the oil level I attempted to do a test ride, however; the clutch did not operate properly. It appeared to not be disengaging the engine and it was almost impossible to shift into gear. When I did get it into first gear it killed the engine. My first thought was the oil since that was the only variable from a Spyder with no shifting problems. So I ordered a complete new XPS oil change kit from the Can Am store, drained the oil and new filter I had just installed, and went through the oil change process again with the XPS oil. Unfortunately, I encountered the same shifting problem. The engine runs fine, but when I shift into a gear it kills the engine, like shifting from a dead stop with no clutch activation at all. My fear is the clutch is now toast, but I can't imagine using a highly regarded oil rather than the XPS brand would create such a problem, especially since I didn't even ride the bike after the oil change. The only other shifting related issue I can think of is when removing the fairing I had to depress the shift pedal a couple of times (with the engine off of course) to access a bolt. I presented this conundrum to the dealership service department in Louisville, TN where the Spyder came from, as well as the local dealer. Neither had a clue as to what the problem may be. I thought I would take a shot on the forum to see if anyone else might have a valid suggestion prior to hauling it off to a very expensive service visit. By the way, I have been riding since I was 15 and have eight motorcycles. I have restored and/or customized all of them except this Spyder so I do know a little bit about wrench turning, but this Spyder is quite a different beast. Any help would be vastly appreciated.
Thanks much!!
Click to expand...

Additionally are you sure what gear are in after Depressing the pedal while doing the change. Could be possibly so far out place to line up gears correctly. Try to find N Hopefully won’t stall there. Also for safety -keep Park brake on.
 
Knizar said:
Probably needs new packings or O-rings in the clutch slave cylinder, if that hasn't been done since purchased. They do wear out!
Click to expand...

Congratulations go to Knizar for his practical genius and boos to me for not thinking of this first. The clutch master cylinder reservoir was practically empty of fluid. A fill and a bleed and it's good to go. I was so focused on the oil change being the only factor in this problem I didn't even look at anything else since it's so rare that two really unconnected issues occur at the same time. I ordered a new gasket seal for the reservoir which should fix the problem long term. Thank you to everyone for chiming in, and again, sorry for the misdirection in the initial post. Next time I'll trust my Spidey Sense. ;)
 
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davehampton said:
Congratulations go to Knizar for his practical genius and boos to me for not thinking of this first. The clutch master cylinder reservoir was practically empty of fluid. A fill and a bleed and it's good to go. I was so focused on the oil change being the only factor in this problem I didn't even look at anything else since it's so rare that two really unconnected issues occur at the same time. I ordered a new gasket seal for the reservoir which should fix the problem long term. Thank you to everyone for chiming in, and again, sorry for the misdirection in the initial post. Next time I'll trust my Spidey Sense. ;)
Click to expand...

Glad to hear it. It is possible to install the HCM filter backwards on the 998. If it's possible, it's been done. Believe me! And that will give the shift mechanism fits.

It is not even remotely possible to get the HCM filter wrong on the 1330. I see that you list both the SM5 and SE5 in your original post. I didn't catch that. Main thing is that you found and corrected the issue. Congratulations!
 
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Yes, the faulty cause and effect relationship. We have all fallen for it. Just because two things happen, does not mean that one causes the other.
I would have had the same though process as you. Glad you got it sorted out.
 
Yes, had a undecoverable leak of clutch fluid with a 2013 RT SM5. Carried fluid around just in case. Finally, a $1400.00 rebuild of the entire system solved the problem and now it runs great.
 
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I am glad you got it corrected. Some one beat me to it. I was going to mention to check clutch reservoir. I have to add brake fluid to mine a couple of times a season. Mine weeps a bit. I should get a new reservoir gasket. Bruce
 
SM5 Clutch lever won't pull in. Any help or suggestions?

I have a 2008 GS SM5. While out riding yesterday, my clutch went completely stiff and now I can't pull the lever in to shift. I've already tried bleeding the clutch and it's still the same after flushing the old fluid out. Any help or suggestions on what to try would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
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How did you flush your system if the lever won't pull? If the master cyl/slave cyl work enough to actually push out the old fluid and air, then you have a clutch release problem and you will have to get into your clutch to see what is broken.
 
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I agree. If you were able to bleed the system, then it isn't a collapsed or crimped line. Only thing left are broken parts in the clutch basket. The sudden failure while riding also points in this direction. I am curious as to how you got it home.
 
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