Issue with Gauges and digital Cluster on 2014 RT SM6

[AndyBoyeaJr]

Hope everyone are doing well. I have an issue with my 2014 RT SM6 gauges and digital cluster. Only 18K on the bike and it is in pristine condition. I bought it new in 2014 and have been the only owner/rider of it.

I had the dealer install an OEM analog gas gauge and an OEM analog engine temp gauge back in 2020.... I didn't like looking at the plastic covers where the gauges go so I gave in and spent the money on the 2 gauges to fill these spots. When they hooked up the 2 gauges I noticed that both the gas and engine temp readings on the main digital cluster no longer were there but the gauges worked fine so I had no problem with that. I believe this is a normal condition when the Spyder has the analog gauges installed.

Here we are 2 years later and now the gauges don't work properly. Both gauges LED lights flicker rapidly. The gas gauge shows empty even though the tank is full. The gauge never moves from empty. The digital display shows the yellow gas light "on" even though I have a full tank. The engine temp gauge is stuck at about a 1/4 of the way up even when the bike is off for hours. No matter how long the bike is running the engine temp gauge won't move from 1/4 from bottom of gauge.

The bike starts and runs flawlessly. No issues with performance or ride quality.

Here's what I have done thus far troubleshooting: I took off the front panel where the analog gauges are and removed the 2 analog gauges altogether from their wiring. When I did that the digital cluster now shows the gas and engine temp readings and the yellow gas light is not on anymore (I have a full tank of fuel in it). When I turn the key but don't start it the gas reading is full and the engine temp reads nothing as it should since I have a full tank of gas and the engine is cold. However, after I start the bike about 5 seconds later the gas level drops to nothing! The yellow gas light stays off but the gas bar goes all the way down to nothing. The engine temp reading on the digital cluster is accurate...as the engine warms up the level rises on the reading.

With the engine running I did check voltage on the wiring that connects to the analog gauges and both sides (gas and temp) read 10.4 volts on both the LED light wire as well as the orange wires. The blue wires read 0 volts. I checked voltage at the battery and it is 14.4 volts (again, the engine is running and alternator is charging the battery). I did supply 12.6 volts to the analog gauges from a battery I have on a bench (not in the Spyder) and the LED lights work fine on both gauges and the gas gauge did rise to the top and the engine temp gauge did go to the bottom with the 12.6 volts supplied to them.

Not sure what is wrong or how to fix this? I like the gauges and would like to keep them and they appear to be good independent from the bike. Is this purely an electrical issue? Could I have a bad sending unit in my gas tank? However, if this was so, wouldn't the yellow gas light go on (with the gauges removed... like it does with the gauges installed)? Not sure what or where to check next. Any help is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks, Andy B.

 

[Wahrsuul]

The RT-S and RT-L came with those gauges from the factory. With them in place, the digital gauges won't show, so that's normal. As on my tryke, the PO took those gauges out and replaced them with a voltmeter and oil pressure gauge, so the digital gauges show back up. From all reports, the digitals are more accurate.

I'd tend to agree with you - sounds like a bad sending unit in the tank, but that doesn't explain the flashing LEDs in the gauges. Also, with the engine running, I'd think you'd have more than 10.4 volts.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Sounds awfully much like you've got a ground/earth issue somewhere in the wiring that supports those analog gauges &/or the senders.... maybe it's just the earth for the dash cluster, or possibly just those gauges.... It might not be so easy to find exactly where the issue is, but if you reconnect the analogue gauges & provide them with a good earth direct to the battery, it should be pretty easy to confirm or eliminate a poor earth as being the issue!

How good are you with a multi-meter?? Or do you know a good auto-elec nearby who has a whole heap of patience? :dontknow: Unless you have a still valid warranty and a dealer nearby with a well trained, skilled, & patient Can-Am Spyder Tech, I wouldn't recommend letting a dealer loose on it.... :sour:

Good Luck! :cheers:

 

[Navydad]

Sounds awfully much like you've got a ground/earth issue somewhere in the wiring that supports those analog gauges &/or the senders.... maybe it's just the earth for the dash cluster, or possibly just those gauges.... It might not be so easy to find exactly where the issue is, but if you reconnect the analogue gauges & provide them with a good earth direct to the battery, it should be pretty easy to confirm or eliminate a poor earth as being the issue!

How good are you with a multi-meter?? Or do you know a good auto-elec nearby who has a whole heap of patience? :dontknow: Unless you have a still valid warranty and a dealer nearby with a well trained, skilled, & patient Can-Am Spyder Tech, I wouldn't recommend letting a dealer loose on it.... :sour:

Good Luck! :cheers:

I'm thinking a grounding issue with the gauges as as well. You may have an issue with the fuel sending unit, but that wouldn't make the engine (coolant) temp gauge act up. I would check the connections at the gauges and make sure they are clean and tight since the gauges were installed later there may have been a bit of dirt or corrosion present in the connectors. It doesn't take much to cause an issue, especially with a Canbus system.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

The RT-S and RT-L came with those gauges from the factory. With them in place, the digital gauges won't show, so that's normal. As on my tryke, the PO took those gauges out and replaced them with a voltmeter and oil pressure gauge, so the digital gauges show back up. From all reports, the digitals are more accurate.

I'd tend to agree with you - sounds like a bad sending unit in the tank, but that doesn't explain the flashing LEDs in the gauges. Also, with the engine running, I'd think you'd have more than 10.4 volts.

First off :congrats: & :welcome: .... :agree: about the OEM digital guages being more accurate, 100's of folks here did the same thing...... Mike :thumbup:

 

[nazdackster]

Did you ever get this sorted? Mine is doing a very similar thing, except the gauges work OK some of the time, then will go dead. And the low fuel light comes on. Then sometimes they may start again OK. Sometimes banging on the dash will nudge them back into action. I initially thought ground too, but found another thread that said the gauges are actually CAN connected and digital. Another thread said the center display was the issue and they replaced it. I have noticed before that when they are starting to fail, they both fail at the same time, and sometimes the fuel gauge actually looks somewhat digital (it isn't a smooth fall when it is failing, it is a stepped fall, which might mean that the analog output for it is actually the same as the bar graph that is no longer displayed on the display)... Anyway, curious if you found anything. Thanks.

 

[Peter Aawen]

nazdac, it looks like the OP of this thread wasn't really interested in an answer - he came, posted this, then left, and hasn't been back since! :shocked: . All up, he spent less than 9 hours on the Forum, and there's only about 4 minutes between the posting the original post & him leaving.... It doesn't look like he even bothered to look at the responses his original post in the thread received. :banghead: So I sorta doubt you'll get a reply!?


But your problem really does sound like it is an issue with either loose or dirty connections &/or the ground for the dash cluster. I'd suggest your first step should be to undo the screws holding the dash cluster into the binnacle, being very careful not to lose any into the abyss/black hole around the steering shaft (completely surround & cover/wrap the steering shaft/dash join with cloth to minimise the risk ) and check all the connections on the back of those gauges & the dash module, including any earth straps & their frame end connections. If anything's loose, tighten it; if anything looks burnt or charred, it's probably dealer time! :sour:

Good Luck! :cheers:

 

[nazdackster]

Great suggestions, I'll let you know what I find out... Thanks!

 

[ris]

I ride a 2015 RTSE6. Mine had the same problem, fuel and temp gouges worked when they wanted. Replaced both gauges and still had problems. Finally took it to the dealership. They couldn't find a problem. After about a week they changed the dash out to one they had in a used bike. That solved the problem. They put my dash back in. Problem came back. Dealership ordered me a new dash and replaced it. That was 2 years ago. No problems.

 

[BertRemington]

Hmmm the service manual wiring diagram shows the analog fuel gauge operating in parallel with the digital cluster.

Signal is Blue wire. Ground is Black/Violet. Power (meter and light) is Orange/Red to LFB F7 (10amp).

The analog temp gauge signal comes from the digital cluster which generates it from the ECM coolant sensor via CANbus.

ris -- did the dealership let you keep your original dash?

 

[ris]

Hmmm the service manual wiring diagram shows the analog fuel gauge operating in parallel with the digital cluster.

Signal is Blue wire. Ground is Black/Violet. Power (meter and light) is Orange/Red to LFB F7 (10amp).

The analog temp gauge signal comes from the digital cluster which generates it from the ECM coolant sensor via CANbus.

ris -- did the dealership let you keep your original dash?

No they didn't.
After it was all changed and working I read somewhere that someone else had the same problem and found bad solder joints on the circuit board.

 

[Joel The Biker]

Just out of curiosity, do any of you that have problems, have the magnet mirror mounts installed? Those super strong magnets will affect those gauges.

 

[Wahrsuul]

No issues with the magic mirrors on mine.

Yup, the minute "percussive maintenance" makes something work, a bad connection is usually the cause. I've fixed bad connections on TVs by pulling the PCB and baking it at 210 for about 10 minutes. Causes the solder to "reflow" according to the YT techs and has worked for me twice now.

Not sure it'll work on anything in the Spyder, so your mileage may vary (YMMV).

 

[nazdackster]

I took the instrument cluster out and inspected it. Solder joints look beautiful, zero defects found. But I did notice that the connector to the cluster was never installed all the way, it wasn't clipped on. I clipped it on and the gages started working, but not right away. It had to think about it for a minute, then they worked. Digital gauges did work and indicated OK with analog removed. Later on, with a full tank, the low fuel indicator came back on. Going to monitor for a while... If you want to remove the cluster, once you have the bezel off, you just push down on the 2 clips at top and rotate the top forward (you might need a screwdriver at one side or both to help get it started). If it keeps acting up, I might remove and put two mounting brackets where the analog gages are.