Just to clarify...this is shaking...not vibrations.
I appreciate the explanations for my personal understanding. I have been learning more-and-more about these machines over the years...it's not only fun, but a money saver doing what I can myself.
I did not want to buy new tires. Something told me I should NOT buy tires...but, I did out of hope and no dealership was willing to change out the tires just to test or recreate the issue.
I was told it was the tires / front end was the issue by many...even though the issue could be several possibilities. So, I concentrated on working on the front end since it was the biggest issue for most. I tried everything that was suggested except having the fronts balanced with a more dynamic balancer (Road Force).
However, I have yet to find someone within central MO who has the parts / setup to balance them via a Road Force balancing machine.
Raising it and rotating the tires do not show anything to me or the other pair of eyes that was with me.
The fenders barely move at all. I can put my feet on them, and do not feel anything...so, yeah...not sure about the front end anymore.
Again, I am relaying what was told to me. I am not a tire guy, so anyone telling me I don't know what I'm talking about concerning tires is right...I hate to assume, so bear with me.
I bought a Krikit II after the tires did not work. I checked the tension, it was high and decided to try lowering it. I was going to do it myself, but I don't have large enough wrenches, etc. on top of not having much free time (personal reasons).
I am now assuming it is in the belt, because nothing else has worked, and the minor lowering of the belt tension recently seemed to have helped...plus, there's only so much the internet can do virtually.
BRP and the dealerships have given up (even after I was told one of the mechanics could still feel it).
BRP closed the ticket mainly due to the aftermarket parts as listed (before the new fronts were put on):
- PPA wheels
- King's shocks
- Baja Ron's swaybar, links
- Madstad Windshield
- Spyder Extras belt tensioner
More items I forgot to mention:
- laser alignment was done
- Kenda tires balanced 4 times at different dealerships
- non-Kenda tires balanced 2 times
- I was told the front sprocket is fine
- King shocks replaced with a different set of Kings
- adjusted tire pressures a few variations
- adjusted the shocks many variations
- adjusted the windshield all variations
- I have not tied up the belt tensioner yet.
- swapped entire front wheels with the rubber from a friend's F3-S (granted not the same model)
I do not expect a 100% perfect smooth riding 'anything'. But, there is a lot missing from the quality of ride with this bike compared to other machines. My 2014 ST-S I bought new was smoother. It had the stock wheels with Kendas, Elka shocks, CalSci windshield and Baja Ron swaybar.
I have an appt in the AM to have the belt tension lowered more...but, I am totally still open for suggestions.
In a planned method of troubleshooting, based on what you posted, consider.
1) very unlikely, but remotely possible it is front wheels / tires. But with so many rebalances and a swap to different wheels / tires, that sort of 90% lessen that as a cause.
2) it is certainly not the actual shocks, since no way a second set could be bad also, just 99.9% unlikely. Could be oversprung, or over preloaded but that was possibly covered in your adjusting.
3) two different belt damper / tensioners, very unlikely it is that since they are two different brands and work to diminish vibrations.
4) not the windscreen, while they can shake, you have moved it to different positions plus have run oem and Madstad, again 99.9% not the cause, plus windscreens have such light supporting structure very unlikely it is the mounts and you would visually see or feel this.
5) the front pulley is “said” to be ok. Not sure what they checked, but you will know if you do belt tension checks at 1/4 turn intervals of the front pulley.
My suggestion, if you have the ability, lower the belt tension outside of the dealer. Just drop the tension 1 turn on each adjuster screw and go test, not a wide open test, just get something to change. If it gets better check tension on the ground lowest I would go on the ground would be 140 on the Cricket. Do not be super concerned about accurate belt alignment, just be close and search for a change.
If the belt tension makes things better, set the tension to an accurate number, say 140 lbf with the wheel off the ground, then get it tracking correctly.
If tne belt makes no change, you need to do say a 65 mph run in 6 th then in 5 th, see if you have an rpm related vibration, not chassis induced vibration. Simply isolate chassis from engine.
