Good advice. And it helps if when do the final torque, torque each side against their adjusters. IE; one wrench up and one wrench down in the proper direction. I think 90#'s is plenty of torque for the final adjustment. Ask Joe on Squared Away, he's done a freight car load of belt adjustments.
-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
What's the recommended Belt Tension?
- Thread starter K80Shooter
- Start date
Good advice. And it helps if when do the final torque, torque each side against their adjusters. IE; one wrench up and one wrench down in the proper direction. I think 90#'s is plenty of torque for the final adjustment. Ask Joe on Squared Away, he's done a freight car load of belt adjustments.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
In 2015 BRP issued a tech bulletin, TST61Y014S05, that deals with belt tension and vibration. See also this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y_k8bHF0PJo. Essentially what it says is set the belt tension somewhere between min and max that results in the least amount of vibration at a speed the owner can live with.
As far as the ordeal of getting the axle to not move while torquing read about my travails and offered suggestions here: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...-amp-Question&highlight=belt+tension+tracking.
To get the torque necessary don't spend money on a 3/4" torque wrench. Get a torque multiplier wrench and use your 1/2" drive torque wrench. This is what I have and used, or one like it. https://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Torque...ords=harley+36mm+wrench&qid=1615155005&sr=8-5
As far as the ordeal of getting the axle to not move while torquing read about my travails and offered suggestions here: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...-amp-Question&highlight=belt+tension+tracking.
To get the torque necessary don't spend money on a 3/4" torque wrench. Get a torque multiplier wrench and use your 1/2" drive torque wrench. This is what I have and used, or one like it. https://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Torque...ords=harley+36mm+wrench&qid=1615155005&sr=8-5
From 2011 to 2013 the torque value for the rear axel was 96/98 lbs. 2014 came along and it changed to 166 lbs and no one seems to know why. Different material in the axel? Misprint in owner's manual? A 70 lb change in one year is a bunch for no reason given, and there's been no change in the axel and the nuts. According to Cheap Cycle Parts, the rear axle part number for the 2013 spyder is (705501691) and is the same for the 2014, (705501691). Both jam nuts are the same also (250100103). The 2021 f3 Rear Wheel Axle part number is also the same (705501691) however the jam nut number has changed to (250100170). That part number changed in 2015, but it is still an M24 nut as described in all the parts list from 2011 to 2021.
ButterSmooth
New member
I'm not sure when it happened, but the only change I've noticed is the elimination of the split-pin lock.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
I just looked at the description on Amazon for the wrench. It says the wrench needs to be used 90° to the torque wrench. That is true if you plan to read the required directly on the wrench. If you attach the wrench in line with the torque wrench then the real torque on the nut will be torque wrench reading divided by torque wrench length and then multiplied by total length of the two wrenches.
He's not concerned because it's not a safety issue. It's only an annoyance and only for some. I can barely hear the whine and not at all when I've got the tunes on. I cured the vibration with one of Lamonsters belt tensioners.
Saw this whilst poking about in the forum....I guess 166 is the 'new' number. But regardless, I've watched a video where the guy uses an open end/box wrench cut in half to loosen the nut! No way are you going to undo 166 ft # of torque with half a wrench! I happen to own a 1/2 drive torque wrench that goes to 200 # (I bought it for the axe nuts on a Ryker) and it works well since it is about 28" long.
Similar threads
- Locked
