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Spyder RT 2014 error code P0194
- Thread starter Firestick
- Start date
That is a code I have not seen but I'm sure some one here has and will come along and post something. It may not be what it seems to be. Bad / dirty battery connection can cause some strange codes sometime.
trikermutha
New member
Code dont seem to be in my manual.
Where did you get the code?
Where did you get the code?
trikermutha
New member
Did you pull it off your Spyder?
JayBros
Well-known member
Doesn't appear in mine either.
I show P0194 as Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Intermittent in the 'Generic Automotive Code Database', not as a specific Spyder Code, & IIRC I reckon that points towards the circuit itself &/or the sensor reading being intermittent, not necessarily an intermittent fuel pressure fault. :dontknow:
If it is that circuit &/or sensor, then it's most likely an electrical problem..... and being that it's happening on a Spyder, that could well be due to a dead/dying battery; poor terminal connections on the battery or the earth/ground terminals onto the frame; poor sensor or connections on the injectors; or possibly even a poor sensor or connection on the back of the dash cluster. :dontknow: Even brand new batteries or batteries that've always been kept on a tender could be dead/dying & produce this sort of issue & idling/gear selection behaviour when running, or maybe that should be 'especially batteries that've always kept on a tender'.... :banghead: Battery tenders can hide a dead/dying battery until they are really stuffed, and then all sorts of odd &/or spurious problems can crop up without prior warning, occur at random, and disappear pretty much straight away if you replace the dead/dying battery with a 'known good' battery (& not just necessarily just a 'new battery'! :shocked: )
Then again, given that the code detail I got came out of a generic automotive database, it could just as easily be a whole raft of other things too... :gaah: but for what it's worth.....
. Still, unless you're a dab hand at diagnosing electrical issues Firestick, I doubt it's something you'll be easily able to track down & sort yourself, so I hope you know a good Spyder Technician! 
Over to you. Good Luck! :thumbup:
If it is that circuit &/or sensor, then it's most likely an electrical problem..... and being that it's happening on a Spyder, that could well be due to a dead/dying battery; poor terminal connections on the battery or the earth/ground terminals onto the frame; poor sensor or connections on the injectors; or possibly even a poor sensor or connection on the back of the dash cluster. :dontknow: Even brand new batteries or batteries that've always been kept on a tender could be dead/dying & produce this sort of issue & idling/gear selection behaviour when running, or maybe that should be 'especially batteries that've always kept on a tender'.... :banghead: Battery tenders can hide a dead/dying battery until they are really stuffed, and then all sorts of odd &/or spurious problems can crop up without prior warning, occur at random, and disappear pretty much straight away if you replace the dead/dying battery with a 'known good' battery (& not just necessarily just a 'new battery'! :shocked: )
Then again, given that the code detail I got came out of a generic automotive database, it could just as easily be a whole raft of other things too... :gaah: but for what it's worth.....
. Still, unless you're a dab hand at diagnosing electrical issues Firestick, I doubt it's something you'll be easily able to track down & sort yourself, so I hope you know a good Spyder Technician! Over to you. Good Luck! :thumbup:
That doesn't mean it's NOT the battery, it just means it's a little LESS LIKELY to be the battery itself, but it also means it's possibly even MORE likely to be the terminals &/or earth/ground connections! And that's ESPECIALLY the case if the battery was the last thing you touched before these problems started - often, problems like this are related to the last thing you touched/worked on before they started! :lecturef_smilie:
For example, up until just recently, I'd had absolutely no issues with my Spyder's DPS (Dynamic Power Steering) - at least not until I replaced the battery! Then within a few days of replacing my Spyder battery with a stronger & brand new replacement that was checked & charged before installation, my Spyder developed some puzzlingly intermittent but savage Power steering surges & faults - only in my particular case it wasn't the battery itself; it was simply a poor connection onto the frame on one of the earth/ground leads some distance away from the battery. Obviously, something I'd done in removing the old/fitting the new battery had moved that cable just enough to loosen the bolt holding the cable terminal onto the frame, and it became loose enough that it caused poor connection problems whenever the cable jolted or moved around as I rode along.... :banghead: And there have been quite a few similar incidents reported here, where fitting a brand new battery has created intermittent or even 'absolutely dead battery' type problems because either the new battery itself failed the very first time it was subjected to any real load, or fitting the new battery ended up with loose terminal connections or made a connection elsewhere just a bit too loose! So even if it is brand new, you really should still check your battery and all the earth/ground connections you can find!! nojoke
Have you actually tested the battery since this problem came up?? :dontknow: If you can get it checked by an auto elec, then so much the better - if not, you can still do a fairly basic check yoursef just to confirm it's OK.
Get a multi-meter onto it BEFORE you try to start the engine, and get a voltage reading. Then keep the multi-meter on it WHILE you try to start the Spyder, watching to see how low the voltage goes; and also to see how high the voltage goes ONCE the engine starts running. It should read high 12 volts before; not drop much below 12 volts while; and get up to high 13's or low 14's once the engine starts running at revs above idle. Any lower than those, you've got a battery &/or charging problem!! Can you get back to us with what each of those 3 voltage readings are?? :dontknow:Regardless, if they show the battery/charging system really IS good, then you don't really have much choice left - it's probably time to get it to a reputable & competent Spyder Technician. :thumbup:
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