Stripped yet ANOTHER bolt!!!

[Revalden]

Hey Monk, I'll give you a hundred bucks for your Spyder and I'll even come pick it up. I'll consider it a Mental Health Mission. :cheers:

 

[cptjam]

Me, too! I’ll go $200!

 

[PMK]

Bummer, again.

 

[PinkRosePetal]

Sheesh! You folks shouldn't be let loose on yer bikes with a tool in yer hand! What with chewed out heads, cross threads and slackening screws in the wrong direction...you do know which side of a brake pad is the disc side?! 'Course you do, it's the flat side....

 

[Peteoz]

That is why I like to screw in the bolts for the tupperware by hand. I don't get when people place the bolt on the bit, jam the bolt in the hole and pull the trigger on a power tool. That's a great way to cross thread .

However, I use a power tool to take them off.

I’ve got some news for you, Peacekeeper..........I don’t even use a power driver to REMOVE the panel bolts, let alone tighten them, and I have still cross threaded a couple. I certainly don’t “jam the bolt in the hole and pull the trigger’, as per your rather significant assumption as to the cause of cross threading. I guess I’m just not as smart as you, eh? Oh well, I can live with that. :2thumbs:

Pete

 

[PinkRosePetal]

OK, not meaning to diss anyone and not being a smartass but a little something to help... When using a tool to enter a screw the essential thing is to keep the screw thread at a right angle to the nut. Unfortunately we have arms, wrists, hands and fingers which are bendy: keep an imaginary line from the elbow, through the wrist and hand and into the driver and screw and rotate wrist and forearm without any misalignment. No wobbling, no holding out of line or any angle but 90 degrees. With a power driver the same rule except in a drill type because of the offset you need to keep the chuck centreline parallel to your forearm.

 

[PMK]

OK, not meaning to diss anyone and not being a smartass but a little something to help... When using a tool to enter a screw the essential thing is to keep the screw thread at a right angle to the nut. Unfortunately we have arms, wrists, hands and fingers which are bendy: keep an imaginary line from the elbow, through the wrist and hand and into the driver and screw and rotate wrist and forearm without any misalignment. No wobbling, no holding out of line or any angle but 90 degrees. With a power driver the same rule except in a drill type because of the offset you need to keep the chuck centreline parallel to your forearm.

Good quality fasteners have proper thread form lead ins and seldom require the precision you mention. Low quality fasteners or sometimes stainless as used on Spyders will cold weld a section of threads from the mating fastener and cause all sorts of issues.

 

[PinkRosePetal]

Good quality fasteners have proper thread form lead ins and seldom require the precision you mention....

Yes, well, judging from the admissions in this thread, perhaps they do. There's no substitute for good technique imho.

 

[Peacekeeper6]

I’ve got some news for you, Peacekeeper..........I don’t even use a power driver to REMOVE the panel bolts, let alone tighten them, and I have still cross threaded a couple. I certainly don’t “jam the bolt in the hole and pull the trigger’, as per your rather significant assumption as to the cause of cross threading. I guess I’m just not as smart as you, eh? Oh well, I can live with that. :2thumbs:

Pete

Thank goodness you're not as smart as me. I can live with that too.

G'DAY MATE !!!!

 

[PMK]

Yes, well, judging from the admissions in this thread, perhaps they do. There's no substitute for good technique imho.

Truism. This topic is like the horror movie of DIY Spyder maintenance and mods. Kind of scary.

 

[wyliec]

OK, not meaning to diss anyone and not being a smartass but a little something to help... When using a tool to enter a screw the essential thing is to keep the screw thread at a right angle to the nut. Unfortunately we have arms, wrists, hands and fingers which are bendy: keep an imaginary line from the elbow, through the wrist and hand and into the driver and screw and rotate wrist and forearm without any misalignment. No wobbling, no holding out of line or any angle but 90 degrees. With a power driver the same rule except in a drill type because of the offset you need to keep the chuck centreline parallel to your forearm.

The Mona Lisa (award) of How to Screw Instructions. Previously there was the Mona Lisa award for how to air your front tires for equal pressure, showing an in depth design for tubing and fittings required. I'd still give the tubing/fitting design 1st place, but you're a close 2nd.:thumbup::joke:

 

[troop]

MONK,
1st off, I give you credit for airing out your 2nd snafu. 2ndly, I wouldn't attempt anymore fastener R&R until you get the first two corrected. Good luck

 

[Border Rider]

I worked at a tap and die company for many years, seen a lot of stripped threads. The bolts that BRP uses on the handle bar mount have loc tite on them.
The bolts are junk and the heads are soft so they strip out easily. been there done that.

 

[Peteoz]

OK, not meaning to diss anyone and not being a smartass but a little something to help... When using a tool to enter a screw the essential thing is to keep the screw thread at a right angle to the nut. Unfortunately we have arms, wrists, hands and fingers which are bendy: keep an imaginary line from the elbow, through the wrist and hand and into the driver and screw and rotate wrist and forearm without any misalignment. No wobbling, no holding out of line or any angle but 90 degrees. With a power driver the same rule except in a drill type because of the offset you need to keep the chuck centreline parallel to your forearm.

Yeah, that was exactly my problem with the first Tupperware bolt I cross threaded, Pink. I thought the angle at which I was installing it was the correct angle.....turns out it wasn’t. pps:

Pete

 

[ChicagoSpyder]

This hangs over the door of my toy barn.

 

[Mikey]

this hangs over the door of my toy barn.

View attachment 181340

i love it!!!

 

[ThreeWheels]

Every time I see this thread at the top of the list, I keep thinking "How many bolts are left on the Spyder ?"

 

[Mikey]

It could be the new tire thread!!:roflblack:

 

[troop]

I worked at a tap and die company for many years, seen a lot of stripped threads. The bolts that BRP uses on the handle bar mount have loc tite on them.
The bolts are junk and the heads are soft so they strip out easily. been there done that.

BRP seems to use thread lock on all their bolts. Hell, they even use thread lock in the little machine screws that hold the cable guides on the the handlebars

 

[SpyderJerry]

These are the type of easyouts to use with stripped out allen or torx head. https://www.amazon.com/Topec-10-Pie...ld=1&keywords=easyouts&qid=1589723098&sr=8-24
But, you must warm up the bolts some with a heat gun first to soften the locktite.