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Ryker Rally Oil plugs access?

Sarge707

Active member
Really? Where the L are they? I Looked and just jacking it up on those two front points is a pain and you really need two floor jacks and then 2 different individual points in the back. Does BRP have stock in Harbor Freight?
Is it under the left front of the engine and Do you need to take the skid plate or that extra plate the Rally has off?Thanks

Access on the F3 is easy compared to this Addicting Toy!
 
I just drove my wife's up on car ramps and changed the oil. No shields needed to come off, but the access holes are pretty damn small. Not sure if the Rally is any different than the 900
 
I've changed my oil twice now. No problem at all. Pulled up on my plastic ramps purchased from Harbor Freight. Found plugs just inside right foot peg. Unscrewed dipstick, pulled plugs and let it drain. Then put a jack under the final drive/rear differential and jacked up the rear of the bike to level it out so that all oil would drain.

Then remove the 3 bolts to the oil filter cover and lifted out the old filter. Dabbed out excess old oil in filter area. Dropped in new filter and O ring in cap. Put all the bolts back in and refilled with one gallon of Rotella T6 5W40 full synthetic.

30 minute job at most. Cost $35

Do it you're safe and save big bucks versus dealer.
 
I've changed my oil twice now. No problem at all. Pulled up on my plastic ramps purchased from Harbor Freight. Found plugs just inside right foot peg. Unscrewed dipstick, pulled plugs and let it drain. Then put a jack under the final drive/rear differential and jacked up the rear of the bike to level it out so that all oil would drain.

Then remove the 3 bolts to the oil filter cover and lifted out the old filter. Dabbed out excess old oil in filter area. Dropped in new filter and O ring in cap. Put all the bolts back in and refilled with one gallon of Rotella T6 5W40 full synthetic.

30 minute job at most. Cost $35

Do it you're safe and save big bucks versus dealer.

Thanks- I was looking on the left front So maybe with some car ramps it will be easier IF I look at the right side!!! I'm using Valvoline Full synthetic 5w40 MST that's the same oil that runs my 900cc jetski engine for 3 years.
 
The RALLY does have a skid plate. The drain holes in it are small and have a tendency to collect oil as it drains (as reported in this forum) causing a smoking oil smell if not cleaned up well.
 
The oil won't catch on mine. Now I'm ready for an oil change without smelly stuff.
 

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Well, that's one way to do it!! ;)

On a related note, I was in the local HD dealership a while back and noticed that they sell a low-profile drain pan. Doublewalled,with the top making a funnel. I think the whole thing was only 2" or 3" thick. May be the answer to avoid jacks and ramps.
 
looks like when you took off the skid plate you cut all the zip ties holding the wiring loom to the skid plate. Did you zip tie them back when replacing the skid plate?
 
looks like when you took off the skid plate you cut all the zip ties holding the wiring loom to the skid plate. Did you zip tie them back when replacing the skid plate?

No I think he took his rotoZip to his cover and cut a nice access hole!!:2thumbs:
 
looks like when you took off the skid plate you cut all the zip ties holding the wiring loom to the skid plate. Did you zip tie them back when replacing the skid plate?

I cut the zip ties- Be careful- And about 4 push pins - Wires fit back in the groves. Every oil change at 3,500 miles is easy now! If your not experienced with BRP stuff be careful.
 
If the wires aren't tied together when you take the shield down I would put a couple on there, then they will fit in the channel when you install the shield and put your push pin on and walk away!
 
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