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Oil in 998cc air box
- Thread starter Haikanko
- Start date
Jackhartjr
Active member
My manual says that's normal.
WisconsinDavid
Member
I have the same with mine... thought I remember reading about instructions to put a filter into the air breather hose. I can't find that thread via search. Maybe someone has the thread archived that helps decrease the oil blow-back in the 998 rotax engine. I saw a reference that Bajaron used to offer a simple kit (or instructions), but I don't see it on his vendor page... so that must have run its course. Thanks if anyone has that info. Here in WI, a few more months and our cycles will go into hibernation until April or May.
That usually only happens if they're over-filled with oil! :shocked: Don't ever top up the oil to the FULL level when the engine hasn't been warmed up properly &/or you're not using the correct oil checking process for the dry-sump engine & it shouldn't be an issue. :thumbup:
WisconsinDavid
Member
I run my oil at half way up the dipstick. Full or near full can contribute to the problem. I heard that too, Peter. Good info.
billybovine
Active member
Light coating of oil in the air box is normal. If it builds up so much that it drips out onto your right foot. That's a more common problem with the older 998s than the newer model years. It has nothing to do with how much oil is in the oil tank. It has to do with how much oil is on top of the head. Excess oil on top of the head is caused by excessive leaking of the camshaft bearing caps. BRPs recommended service action is to apply a thin film of liquid gasket maker to the bearing caps during regular scheduled valve clearance check. Since no one gets the valve check service done. Just install a catch can in the vent line if your Spyder is one of the problem ones.
BajaRon
Well-known member
Very common problem with the 998 V-Twin. Some get enough oil in the air box that it wets the air filter and drips out the weep hole in the corner. 'Normal' doesn't necessarily mean it's right or should be happening. What other vehicle have you owned where you find oil in the air box? If we were to be honest. We'd simply call it what it is. A design flaw.
You basically have 3 choices. 1- You can run with a low oil level and see if this helps. Usually, it does not because it's not the oil level in the reservoir causing the issue. The crankcase vent comes off the head, not the reservoir. Lowering the oil level only affects the reservoir as the crankcase oil level stays constant.
If you do choose to run your oil level low, check often because the 998 uses oil. 2- You can run the oil level where it is supposed to be and live with oil in the air box (Choice #1 and #2 being very similar in results). Or 3- you can fix the problem and have the best of both worlds. A full oil reservoir and no oil in your air box. (Forgive me for my bias, but this would be my choice)
The good news is, this issue is easily and cheaply remedied. There have been several approaches. One being a true 'Catch Can'. However, a true catch can removes oil from the system (albeit, not that much) and requires maintenance. I recommend a crank case breather modification. It works just as well as a catch can, is less expensive and easier to install. And, it is virtually maintenance free. It also offers the advantage of returning perfectly good oil to the engine where it belongs instead of you draining it out from a catch-can. The necessary parts (Listed below) are readily available at any auto parts store, except for the open cell foam. Which I will provide you upon request.
All you need is one of these glass fuel filters...
and 4 of these small hose clamps.
You do not use the plastic nipples as they make the assembly too long. You do not use the fuel filter element so that gets removed. Instead, you will need a small chunk of open cell foam (which I will supply at no charge if you email me). You want the foam to fill the cavity but not be compressed (kind of defeats the 'Open Cell' component of the foam if you mash it into the filter housing).
Cut the vent hose so that the hex filter ends fit into the upper and lower hose, apply the clamps and you're done! I've had mine on for over 30,000 miles and have not had to do anything to it. It still works as well as the day I installed it.
The installed assembly ends up looking like this.
If you like, we can supply the kit with all needed components.
You basically have 3 choices. 1- You can run with a low oil level and see if this helps. Usually, it does not because it's not the oil level in the reservoir causing the issue. The crankcase vent comes off the head, not the reservoir. Lowering the oil level only affects the reservoir as the crankcase oil level stays constant.
If you do choose to run your oil level low, check often because the 998 uses oil. 2- You can run the oil level where it is supposed to be and live with oil in the air box (Choice #1 and #2 being very similar in results). Or 3- you can fix the problem and have the best of both worlds. A full oil reservoir and no oil in your air box. (Forgive me for my bias, but this would be my choice)
The good news is, this issue is easily and cheaply remedied. There have been several approaches. One being a true 'Catch Can'. However, a true catch can removes oil from the system (albeit, not that much) and requires maintenance. I recommend a crank case breather modification. It works just as well as a catch can, is less expensive and easier to install. And, it is virtually maintenance free. It also offers the advantage of returning perfectly good oil to the engine where it belongs instead of you draining it out from a catch-can. The necessary parts (Listed below) are readily available at any auto parts store, except for the open cell foam. Which I will provide you upon request.
All you need is one of these glass fuel filters...
and 4 of these small hose clamps.
You do not use the plastic nipples as they make the assembly too long. You do not use the fuel filter element so that gets removed. Instead, you will need a small chunk of open cell foam (which I will supply at no charge if you email me). You want the foam to fill the cavity but not be compressed (kind of defeats the 'Open Cell' component of the foam if you mash it into the filter housing).
Cut the vent hose so that the hex filter ends fit into the upper and lower hose, apply the clamps and you're done! I've had mine on for over 30,000 miles and have not had to do anything to it. It still works as well as the day I installed it.
The installed assembly ends up looking like this.
If you like, we can supply the kit with all needed components.
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papaduke187
New member
I went the route of installing a catch can and have to drain mine regularly. I don't mind, but it is an extra step.
Haikanko
New member
Thanks BajaRon
Could you supply the total unit (glass filter etc) pm with price and I sort it out
Is this the filter? https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32699568136.html?spm=2114.12057483.0.0.71c346c0mBypI4
Could you supply the total unit (glass filter etc) pm with price and I sort it out
Is this the filter? https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32699568136.html?spm=2114.12057483.0.0.71c346c0mBypI4
BajaRon
Well-known member
Yes, the link you post is the correct filter. They are very easy to find.
However, I have never carried or sold this mod as a kit. The components are so inexpensive and readily available. It did not seem necessary. I simply made one for my 998 long ago, and, because it worked very well, I share the information. That is the extent of my involvement on this one.
A great number of people have installed these. To my knowledge, they all were very pleased with the results. I like this mod because it's pretty much plug & play. You'll forget it's even there and you'll see no more oil in the air box.
I have provided the open cell foam, when requested, and instructions for assembly including which parts are needed. And yes, this is the correct filter. You can also get them with the hose barb built in. These work just as well but you have to cut the hose barb portion off leaving just the hex end. Some file the hex portion round. But I have found that this is not necessary. The hose seals just fine on the hex.
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I found both the small hose clamps as well as the glass fuel filter at O'Reilly Auto Parts.
Ron, thank you for sharing your expertise and creativity with the community. Will PM you shortly about getting a swatch of that filter media from you.
SO happy to have found this thread!
Ron, thank you for sharing your expertise and creativity with the community. Will PM you shortly about getting a swatch of that filter media from you.
SO happy to have found this thread!
BajaRon
Well-known member
No problem. I've actually gone through several square feet of this foam. Glad to do it. Making people happy has its own rewards.
BajaRon
Well-known member
What you want is a sheet of UNI Coarse, open cell foam. It is designed to be used as a pre-filter for your air filter. Mostly on off road motorcycles. The one I get is the B-5 product. It is 12″ X 16″ X 3/8″ – 40 PPI Red coarse foam. You don't want the thicker version as it won't fit into the glass filter as easily without compressing it. If you compress the foam insert it will collapse the passageways in the foam defeating the purpose. Here is a link. This also comes in Black. But I think the red looks cool. Either version will work fine. https://unifilter.com/online-catalog/accessories/
However, if you send me your address, I will send you a chunk. That will save you getting a sheet that you will probably never use the rest of.
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BajaRon
Well-known member
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