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Wheels falling off?

Based on this video the wheels come in the crate with the tires mounted but the dealer mounts the tire and wheel to the hub and torques it.
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...35D86EB1DB7CE84B558535D86EB1DB7C&&FORM=VRDGAR

Exactly! Which puts the issue squarely on the assembly process. To me it is pretty cut and dried. Some ham fisted person who should never have been left unsupervised did this poor customer a great disservice. It didn't help matters that the owner went sideways with little or no understanding of the event. I understand his being upset. But he'd have been better off getting some facts before making the videos.
 
Exactly! Which puts the issue squarely on the assembly process. To me it is pretty cut and dried. Some ham fisted person who should never have been left unsupervised did this poor customer a great disservice. It didn't help matters that the owner went sideways with little or no understanding of the event. I understand his being upset. But he'd have been better off getting some facts before making the videos.

I concur.
 
It is worth noting that -- at least in the video -- the rear tire/wheel come mounted from the factory and are presumably torqued. I have heard no reports of looseness in the rear wheel. Hopefully what comes from this is a bulletin from BRP to the dealers about insuring the correct torque at assembly. Yes, it is in the owners manual but....
 
It is worth noting that -- at least in the video -- the rear tire/wheel come mounted from the factory and are presumably torqued. I have heard no reports of looseness in the rear wheel. Hopefully what comes from this is a bulletin from BRP to the dealers about insuring the correct torque at assembly. Yes, it is in the owners manual but....

Honestly, I think the dealerships are well aware of the proper assembly procedure. My salesman took me out to the shop for the un-crating of my Ryker. This was last December.

As the tech was getting my Ryker out of the crate the salesmen was telling me how thrilled the tech was that he had a Snap-On torque wrench that went to 250 lbs. He said that the other Tech's had given him grief in the past about having a torque wrench with settings well beyond what he would ever need. And now he feels vindicated.

So yes, they are well aware. I don't think this was a case of BRP not doing their due diligence. I think it was a case of negligence, neglect, incompetence, lack of proper tools or a combination of all 4. Bottom line, absolutely no excuse.

I just hate to see BRP or the Ryker product get a black eye over this. It is completely undeserved.
 
I just hate to see BRP or the Ryker product get a black eye over this. It is completely undeserved.

Agreed. The guy got a raw deal for sure. However, he has really caused a huge ruckus and I'm quite sick of seeing the huge amount of re-posts on the forums and facebook groups.
 
If nothing else he has made the importance of correct wheel nut tension recognised.It's a new model there'll be stuff like this,design is only on paper till the unwashed get hold of it.
 
In this video Smoak clearly shows the Ryker wheel assembly and how its put together.
Did you notice how easy the lug nut safety pin came off? BRP could make the safety pin a bit more rigid.

https://youtu.be/SFs5t95pL2k

If torqued properly and safety pin stays in place, the lug nut will not unscrew.
I am zip tying mine for peace of mind
 
If nothing else he has made the importance of correct wheel nut tension recognised.It's a new model there'll be stuff like this,design is only on paper till the unwashed get hold of it.
My F3 is my summer snowmobile, and coming from the sled world you know going in on a new model that you're going to be a consumer guinea pig, it is what it is. You just hope that no one gets hurt.

In this video Smoak clearly shows the Ryker wheel assembly and how its put together.
Did you notice how easy the lug nut safety pin came off? BRP could make the safety pin a bit more rigid.

https://youtu.be/SFs5t95pL2k

If torqued properly and safety pin stays in place, the lug nut will not unscrew.
I am zip tying mine for peace of mind

That safety pin looks like a joke to me, and according to the guy Texas BRP doesn't give you a lug nut socket with the tool kit; what's up with that? Smells cheap to me $$
 
That safety pin looks like a joke to me, and according to the guy Texas BRP doesn't give you a lug nut socket with the tool kit; what's up with that? Smells cheap to me $$

The socket (65mm) is too big for a motorcycle tool kit. Even if they did give you one, there is no room on the bike for a 250 ftlbs torque wrench / breaker bar. Nope, these are shop use tools. Flat tire = call roadside service if it cannot be plugged and filled. Pretty much the case for all motorcycles.
 
My F3 is my summer snowmobile, and coming from the sled world you know going in on a new model that you're going to be a consumer guinea pig, it is what it is. You just hope that no one gets hurt.

That safety pin looks like a joke to me, and according to the guy Texas BRP doesn't give you a lug nut socket with the tool kit; what's up with that? Smells cheap to me $$

The safety pin is more than adequate. I don't think you're going to see any wheel issues with the safety pin as long as the wheel is installed correctly. But you're going to have issues with any wheel if not installed correctly. I lost a rear wheel on my 86 Ford F-250 on a windy road because the tire shop that installed it did a very poor job.

As far as the tool set needed to replace a wheel. You're looking at well over $200.00 for the BRP socket and a decent 3/4 drive torque wrench that will do the job. I know you're just asking for the socket. But without the torque wrench, it is of no value. Where are you going to store a 2 foot plus torque wrench on a Ryker? And how many people do you think will actually use it? Even with a long handled torque wrench you're looking at some pretty stout effort.

Like JT said. Not only is it not practical. It's a bit much to ask BRP or a dealership to throw in.
 
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The socket (65mm) is too big for a motorcycle tool kit. Even if they did give you one, there is no room on the bike for a 250 ftlbs torque wrench / breaker bar. Nope, these are shop use tools. Flat tire = call roadside service if it cannot be plugged and filled. Pretty much the case for all motorcycles.

The safety pin is more than adequate. I don't think you're going to see any wheel issues with the safety pin as long as the wheel is installed correctly. But you're going to have issues with any wheel if not installed correctly. I lost a rear wheel on my 86 Ford F-250 on a windy road because the tire shop that installed it did a very poor job.

As far as the tool set needed to replace a wheel. You're looking at well over $200.00 for the BRP socket and a decent 3/4 drive torque wrench that will do the job. I know you're just asking for the socket. But without the torque wrench, it is of no value. Where are you going to store a 2 foot plus torque wrench on a Ryker? And how many people do you think will actually use it? Even with a long handled torque wrench you're looking at some pretty stout effort.

Like JT said. Not only is it not practical. It's a bit much to ask BRP or a dealership to throw in.

I'm not talking about riding around with a breaker bar, but the socket itself would be great in and when the event happens where you get a flat and a broken bead bombing around on back country two track with the closest Bombi dealer being 200 miles away, with the socket you can get to any Joe's Garage and get your tire repaired.

BRP is advertisng the machine as an offroad vehicle and at the very least IMO BRP should provide or at least offer the socket at a reasonable price for the offroad rider, I know if it was me riding a Ryker offroad I would have the socket just to avoid a blown day driving to a Can Am dealer :cheers:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3w0gKBvXZgs
 
I'm not talking about riding around with a breaker bar, but the socket itself would be great in and when the event happens where you get a flat and a broken bead bombing around on back country two track with the closest Bombi dealer being 200 miles away, with the socket you can get to any Joe's Garage and get your tire repaired.

BRP is advertisng the machine as an offroad vehicle and at the very least IMO BRP should provide or at least offer the socket at a reasonable price for the offroad rider, I know if it was me riding a Ryker offroad I would have the socket just to avoid a blown day driving to a Can Am dealer :cheers:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3w0gKBvXZgs

The point others are trying to make is it's torqued to 221 Ft lbs. (Corrected sorry!!!) That is why they reference a torque wrench / breaker bar. You would never be able to get that nut off torqued that high with any standard ratchet you would have with you on a Ryker. You need something with significant leverage which would be way to big to keep on a Ryker.
 
I carry a very large hex wrench 1/2" socket for my FJR's front axle but no 1/2" breaker bar. A couple years ago I blew out a front tire valve stem just after crossing the Mississippi River into Wisconsin. The closest tire shop was about 3 miles away but a phone call brought the owner's wife and a 1/2" breaker bar so I could get the tire off and taken to his shop. THAT is why I would carry the 65mm socket on the Rally. When you do find a shop to fix the tire, they or you will need it along with THEIR breaker bar and/or torque wrench. I would not hesitate to ride with a nut tightened with just a breaker bar and a cheater if no big torque wrench was readily available, at least until I could torque it properly.:agree:
 
I carry a very large hex wrench 1/2" socket for my FJR's front axle but no 1/2" breaker bar. A couple years ago I blew out a front tire valve stem just after crossing the Mississippi River into Wisconsin. The closest tire shop was about 3 miles away but a phone call brought the owner's wife and a 1/2" breaker bar so I could get the tire off and taken to his shop. THAT is why I would carry the 65mm socket on the Rally. When you do find a shop to fix the tire, they or you will need it along with THEIR breaker bar and/or torque wrench. I would not hesitate to ride with a nut tightened with just a breaker bar and a cheater if no big torque wrench was readily available, at least until I could torque it properly.:agree:

I see your point (and ChicagoSpyder). I must not have caught onto the type of situation being explained (Sorry for that).

I might just choose. to call AAA though sounds like your waiting either way. Maybe a plug type repair kit would make since like the one I carry on my ATV's that even has 6 co2 cartridges in the kit. The kit takes up very little room.
 
This torque spec seems to be going up with every post, it's 221 ft. lbs. + or - 11 ft. lbs per the owners manual, not 250
 
This torque spec seems to be going up with every post, it's 221 ft. lbs. + or - 11 ft. lbs per the owners manual, not 250

Yeah, somebody was talking about needing a special torque wrench, and I just commented that 250 ft-lbs is fairly standard for a 1/2" drive torque wrench.
 
Yeah, somebody was talking about needing a special torque wrench, and I just commented that 250 ft-lbs is fairly standard for a 1/2" drive torque wrench.

Yep, my 1/2" digital Craftsman goes to 250. It's gonna take some muscle to torque it for sure.
 
BRP is advertisng the machine as an offroad vehicle and at the very least IMO BRP should provide or at least offer the socket at a reasonable price for the offroad rider, I know if it was me riding a Ryker offroad I would have the socket just to avoid a blown day driving to a Can Am dealer]
Minor correction. BRP advertises the Ryker as an "off pavement" roadster, not an "off road" one. Huge difference. Nevertheless I share your concern. I would like to get a Ryker to ride the many mountain gravel roads in Idaho. A tire problem on one of those could be a real inconvenience since I could easily be 50 to 100 miles away from a tire shop, let alone a dealer!
 
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