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Enclosed trailer size for 2 f3s?

I have two 2016 RT Spyders. One RT spyder is approximately 8'9" long. I though about and 18' trailer and decided they would be to close for comfort. So I got a 20'. It gives me more space between them. Bare in mind this is an open trailer an not a enclosed trailer.
 
I'm looking at a 17 footer with a 5' v-nose for our F3T and F3L. I think if I back the F3T into the "v" and then back in the F3L I should have enough room. Going to several trailer places this weekend to check out my theory. I'm looking at Triton and Legend tandem axels.
 
You will find it somewhat difficult to back in and up the ramp without the rear wheel spinning loose. Have tried this several times in my toy haulers

without success. Not much traction on the real wheel. Assume most of the weight is forward on these. Toy Hauler ramps are a little steeper and usually

have to run Hitch jack all the way up and a pre ramp of some sort. Most enclosed trailers are not as steep but you should keep this in mind and "try

before you buy".

Jack
 
I think one thing that needs to be cleared is, does the OP mean tail to tail, as it direct lineup. Or tail to tail as in having them staggered. That would make a big difference in the length trailer needed. If you are referring to tail to tail with them rear staggered, I would think that you could get by with a 7or8x14. Just need to be sure of what you are talking about. If he is referring to them being lined up, I would think that he would just pull them in, one behind the other.
 
I haul two Spyders

I have a 14'X7' vee nose and easily park two inside with room to walk around both. My rear door ramp has an additional 14" tail flap that flips over. I installed tie down rings in the floor and I simply drive over the correct set and strap down the front tires. First one goes in and to the right. The second one BACKS in at a slight angle to the left. I Actually have the floor laid out to get two Spyders and a full dressed touring bike or THREE 10' snowmobiles inside. The key to items fitting is the 7' WIDTH selection. At 7' you can still see behind you with typical truck mirrors
I have NEVER had the slightest traction issue loading either Spyder or touring bikes. Perhaps it's because my ramp is fairly long?
Here is the link and a pic of my type of tail door.
https://www.i39supply.com/enclosed_trailers.html
Dennis
 
I'm looking at a 17 footer with a 5' v-nose for our F3T and F3L. I think if I back the F3T into the "v" and then back in the F3L I should have enough room. Going to several trailer places this weekend to check out my theory. I'm looking at Triton and Legend tandem axels.
Thanks, keep me posted on what you find out. I was thinking I could pull the first on in and back the second one in and have the rear wheels overlap a little.
 
I think one thing that needs to be cleared is, does the OP mean tail to tail, as it direct lineup. Or tail to tail as in having them staggered. That would make a big difference in the length trailer needed. If you are referring to tail to tail with them rear staggered, I would think that you could get by with a 7or8x14. Just need to be sure of what you are talking about. If he is referring to them being lined up, I would think that he would just pull them in, one behind the other.
I was thinking staggered to make them fit in a shorter trailer.
 
I have a 14'X7' vee nose and easily park two inside with room to walk around both. My rear door ramp has an additional 14" tail flap that flips over. I installed tie down rings in the floor and I simply drive over the correct set and strap down the front tires. First one goes in and to the right. The second one BACKS in at a slight angle to the left. I Actually have the floor laid out to get two Spyders and a full dressed touring bike or THREE 10' snowmobiles inside. The key to items fitting is the 7' WIDTH selection. At 7' you can still see behind you with typical truck mirrors
I have NEVER had the slightest traction issue loading either Spyder or touring bikes. Perhaps it's because my ramp is fairly long?
Here is the link and a pic of my type of tail door.
https://www.i39supply.com/enclosed_trailers.html
Dennis
Thanks, I would need a 14x7 vee nose it sounds like.
 
More info

I have a 14'X7' vee nose and easily park two inside with room to walk around both. My rear door ramp has an additional 14" tail flap that flips over. I installed tie down rings in the floor and I simply drive over the correct set and strap down the front tires. First one goes in and to the right. The second one BACKS in at a slight angle to the left. I Actually have the floor laid out to get two Spyders and a full dressed touring bike or THREE 10' snowmobiles inside. The key to items fitting is the 7' WIDTH selection. At 7' you can still see behind you with typical truck mirrors
I have NEVER had the slightest traction issue loading either Spyder or touring bikes. Perhaps it's because my ramp is fairly long?
Here is the link and a pic of my type of tail door.
https://www.i39supply.com/enclosed_trailers.html
Dennis
Adding to the above information. I pull an RT straight forward just 6" short of contact. This is where I have the floor rings for the front tires. The 6" allows for some hard braking and movement. My trailer nose is a full 2 feet deep minus the 6" set back. Now the tail of the RT is over 8 feet from the rear door. Then I back up my F3L dead center on the ramp and turn the wheels as needed so the rear is going off center. I back over my floor rings which are mounted so the front of the F3L is 6" away from the rear door. There is still an incredible amount of room left for gear and stuff. I estimate there is about 600 lbs of tongue weight and the trailer tracks well. Given how much room I have I would bet if pulled up to a dealer with two RTs I could make a 12 foot Vee nose trailer work. I could easily back up the F3L another 2 feet in my trailer?
Dennis
 
Since I don't load my trailer very often, when I had my GL1800 wing I screwed down roof shingles in the center for traction because I had 4 days of rain coming and had to load it NOW in the rain. Simple trip to Lowes for the shingles and truss screws. Now that I have the Spyder F3, the drive wheel goes up the shingles just fine rain or shine! Sure, they wear out eventually, but they are cheep!

Image1.jpg
Footnote: Because I had the F3 which I believe is a tad wider in front than other models, I had to cut the lip about half way up in the doorway. It was an old trailer and the side clearance was too close for comfort. Plan on that and measure your bike width against the trailer opening width. The F3 is 60 inches. My tail door is 61 inches and I widened it to 63 inches. I will post pics if can get them.
 
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I haul an F3 and an RT in my 5th wheel toy hauler one facing forward and one backwards. My garage is 12.5 x 8 and there is plenty of room. I have done this numerous times since getting the toy hauler and have not had issues backing the second one in.
 
Trailer

I’ve been thinking of getting a trailer but I have a question... why?...I have had 2 RTs with about 100,000 total miles. I just returned from a 2000 plus trip from San Diego to Tulsa Okl. And back. There times I wished I had a way to trailer it along the way but I don’t understand how trailering works. Do I trailer it to an area, park my car ride my RT around an are the return to my car?

I’ve read post from people that trailer please explain what your thinking is and what you plan.
I retired in April and really what to do more traveling.
Thanks for your wisdom and advice.
 
I’ve been thinking of getting a trailer but I have a question... why?...I have had 2 RTs with about 100,000 total miles. I just returned from a 2000 plus trip from San Diego to Tulsa Okl. And back. There times I wished I had a way to trailer it along the way but I don’t understand how trailering works. Do I trailer it to an area, park my car ride my RT around an are the return to my car?

I’ve read post from people that trailer please explain what your thinking is and what you plan.
I retired in April and really what to do more traveling.
Thanks for your wisdom and advice.

I hear this a lot on biker sites. "Why to you sissies trailer?"
A} I often take my grandkids. On the way, we can play car games and have some fun!
B} I move living 6 months in Ohio and 6 months in SC. Though I have a house in both places, I still have lots of stuff to move and it won't all fit on the spyder by a long shot.
C} Spouse is disabled and cannot ride like she used to.
D} I'm 70. The drive is hard enough. The 11 hour ride is prohibitive.

Try sometimes putting on another persons shoes and see things from a perspective different than yours.

I did get some pics of how I had to mod my old trailer to accommodate the spyder.

Details here: >CLICK ME<

lipcut.jpg trailer.jpg
 
I’ve been thinking of getting a trailer but I have a question... why?...I have had 2 RTs with about 100,000 total miles. I just returned from a 2000 plus trip from San Diego to Tulsa Okl. And back. There times I wished I had a way to trailer it along the way but I don’t understand how trailering works. Do I trailer it to an area, park my car ride my RT around an are the return to my car?

I’ve read post from people that trailer please explain what your thinking is and what you plan.
I retired in April and really what to do more traveling.
Thanks for your wisdom and advice.

I help organize the Mid Atlantic Meet for the M109Riders website. I trailer the bikes to the meet along with all of the raffle items, easy up canopy, camp chairs, cooler, tools, etc. the meet is held at a new location every 2 years. We always pick an area with excellent riding and use the hotel parking lot as a base camp.

I also trailer to Maggie Valley for the Spyder adventures Rally. We get there quicker, and have room to bring anything we might buy back with us. My wife will do day rides. An occasional weekend trip, but anything really long, she prefers we trailer the bikes.

Trailer works well when your destination is a riding area like Maggie Valley.
 
Adding to the above information. I pull an RT straight forward just 6" short of contact. This is where I have the floor rings for the front tires. The 6" allows for some hard braking and movement. My trailer nose is a full 2 feet deep minus the 6" set back. Now the tail of the RT is over 8 feet from the rear door. Then I back up my F3L dead center on the ramp and turn the wheels as needed so the rear is going off center. I back over my floor rings which are mounted so the front of the F3L is 6" away from the rear door. There is still an incredible amount of room left for gear and stuff. I estimate there is about 600 lbs of tongue weight and the trailer tracks well. Given how much room I have I would bet if pulled up to a dealer with two RTs I could make a 12 foot Vee nose trailer work. I could easily back up the F3L another 2 feet in my trailer?
Dennis
Great, thanks for the follow up. I'll look into seeing if I can get a 12x7 Vee nose to work.
 
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I’ve been thinking of getting a trailer but I have a question... why?...I have had 2 RTs with about 100,000 total miles. I just returned from a 2000 plus trip from San Diego to Tulsa Okl. And back. There times I wished I had a way to trailer it along the way but I don’t understand how trailering works. Do I trailer it to an area, park my car ride my RT around an are the return to my car?

I’ve read post from people that trailer please explain what your thinking is and what you plan.
I retired in April and really what to do more traveling.
Thanks for your wisdom and advice.
I go from Pa. to Daytona twice a year for the bike events and there's no way I want to ride any bike or Spyder 950 miles one way and then ride when I'm there. Trailering at 75 mph is much easier in the truck than driving and motorcycle that speed for that distance. I usually arrive in 14-15 hours driving straight thru. I would never attempt that on any bike.
 
I go from Pa. to Daytona twice a year for the bike events and there's no way I want to ride any bike or Spyder 950 miles one way and then ride when I'm there. Trailering at 75 mph is much easier in the truck than driving and motorcycle that speed for that distance. I usually arrive in 14-15 hours driving straight thru. I would never attempt that on any bike.

I rode both my Valkyrie and then my gold wing to and from Myrtle Beach and Daytona bike weeks from northern Ohio several times. Proudly wore my "I rode mine" badge and it's still on my vest. Those were the younger days. >sigh<
 
We have a 20' that has a 18" bull nose on it. So, it actually comes out to almost 22'. Plenty of room for a RT and F3 pulled in. I opted for the longer spacing because I could foresee problems trying to back up the ramp and it just was so much easier to pull them both in.
 
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