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Spyder RT anti sway bar
- Thread starter Black Pig
- Start date
That's what I used on my 2016 F3-T. I just drilled out the Bushings to accommodate the larger 5/8" diameter. Or just order the larger bushings. ( cheaper way to go and gets the job done )
Chris
Highwayman2013
New member
From a pre 2013 RT maybe.
Pirate looks at --
New member
I would suggest that you just order an F3 swaybar from BajaRon!
Chupaca
New member
Gotta say.....
From what you can see here the BajaRon bar has improved the handling of all years and models of the spyder. I would recommend it to anyone who wants better handling and rydes a spirited ryde. If you are a very conservative ryder the effect may be much less but regardless you will notice the difference and has made many get more out of their ryde...:thumbup:
From what you can see here the BajaRon bar has improved the handling of all years and models of the spyder. I would recommend it to anyone who wants better handling and rydes a spirited ryde. If you are a very conservative ryder the effect may be much less but regardless you will notice the difference and has made many get more out of their ryde...:thumbup:
nhoj
Member
We added a Ron Bar to my wife's 2015RT and then put that takeoff bar on my F3 using the bushings from the RT as well. Works very well.
Rattlebars
New member
Huge Improvement with BajaRon's bar
BajaRon's sway bar was worth the money! Especially considering you get billet aluminum Heim rod ends links. The BRP plastic links look very weak and fragile.
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I agree with Rattlebars. He wrote up his impression on his website above. He makes some great comments that agree with my observations exactly. Also lowering the foot brake pedal makes the bike much safer and comfortable to ride.
BajaRon's sway bar was worth the money! Especially considering you get billet aluminum Heim rod ends links. The BRP plastic links look very weak and fragile.
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I agree with Rattlebars. He wrote up his impression on his website above. He makes some great comments that agree with my observations exactly. Also lowering the foot brake pedal makes the bike much safer and comfortable to ride.
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ABQSpyder
Member
Spend a few quid and go with the RT bar.
Rattlebars
New member
You do need to get the solid bajaron heim links. I'm of the opinion that they do half the improvement properties.
Black Pig
New member
Yeah this is what I want to do and found an RT bar advertised, however, it looks like a GS/RS bar to me, so I don't want to import this thing to find it doesn't fit.
The F3 bar has 90 dergree(ish) ends.
This is the one advertised as an RT bar, I don't think so.
BajaRon
Well-known member
Yeah this is what I want to do and found an RT bar advertised, however, it looks like a GS/RS bar to me, so I don't want to import this thing to find it doesn't fit.
The F3 bar has 90 dergree(ish) ends.
This is the one advertised as an RT bar, I don't think so.
This bar will not work on your F3 or any other 2013+ Can-Am Spyder. This is a 2008-2012 bar. They will not interchange.
BajaRon
Well-known member
No problem. I have been following this thread for awhile. I try not to post because you're doing your research and I think it a bit tacky to try and market my product stuff in a thread. But I do a lot of International sales. And I know how it is to get the wrong thing. Just didn't want you to make a costly and frustrating mistake. It's easily done. I hate learning the hard way and I assume that goes for everyone else.
You are doing your diligent research and I applaud you for that. A quick trigger is not always the wisest way to go.
By the way. The 2008-2012 bars (as pictured in your post) will look identical. You would need to know the diameter to verify RS or RT application. Same goes for the 2013-2018 bars. They will also look identical. You will need to know the diameter to know if it is the correct bar (RT).
Many assume that because the OEM RT bar is 5/8" diameter. And my F3 bar kit is also 5/8" diameter. That they will provide similar results. But there are 3 parameters which make up a sway bar's characteristics. Diameter being only 1. My bar kit is made of a different, higher strength spring steel than the stock bars. So the same diameter will provide a stronger sway bar. Arm length is also a factor. So you can't go simply by diameter to determine the end result when comparing sway bars.
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Steel is steel and has a modulus of elasticity of 30,000,000 psi (29 to 30.5M). High strength steel changes the yield point, or strength, not the spring constant. The lever arm will change the response of the bars as well as the angle of attachment. The RT bar improves stiffness by about 40% over the stock F3 bar (nearly half again stiffer). I personally don't like to get too stiff otherwise one loses the "independent" front suspension.
A 2014 or newer RT bar with the mounting blocks will fit on an F3. A new RT sway bar from BRP was about $65 USD a few years ago. I also installed steel heimlink joints to replace the stock plastic links: they don't look as classy as the billet aluminum ones, but they are functional. I used a 5/16 male and female heimjoint end and adjusted the length to meet the OEM plastic length.
Wayne
A 2014 or newer RT bar with the mounting blocks will fit on an F3. A new RT sway bar from BRP was about $65 USD a few years ago. I also installed steel heimlink joints to replace the stock plastic links: they don't look as classy as the billet aluminum ones, but they are functional. I used a 5/16 male and female heimjoint end and adjusted the length to meet the OEM plastic length.
Wayne
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