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SM5 vs. SE6

Mazo EMS2

Active member
Yeah, I know the difference....question is: I had an SM5 and used Rotella T6 with great success....now I have a brand new jug of Rotella T6 left over on the shelf, but now I also have a 2016 SE6. Have people used Rotella T6 in the SE6 with success, without any "ill effects" such as slippage? By no means am I starting an oils debate guys, only asking specifically about Rotella T6 in the SE6 transmission. If I should dump it in the recycle barrel I will. It's only $21 after all.
 
No problem....

the only difference is the mechanics of the clutch. The oil is the same (meeting all spec's) in both. :thumbup:
 
i think jc thorne says he uses it in all his spyder changes. i carry about 4 gals
all the time for my mowers an powersports stuff. there are others her that are using it.
will probly try it after my brp oil is gone.
 
Used BRP Syn in the 11 RT SM5 - Now Rotella T6 on the 1330's

Had 40,000+ on the Rotella on wifes 15 RTS and now using Rotella at 10,000 on her F3T SE6. Here is the last oil analysis on the Rotella from my 15 RT SE6 at around 25,000 miles

QWkQQyCuDSxkAYRE0AZ06RBbIE4oFH2F5AGMQji0sTyX0PytIj654erAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC
DSCN2156.jpg
 
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That's a good analysis report. The oil has sheared down some but it's solidly in the 30wt range. Steve from BRPCare explained a couple years ago how oil in engines with wet clutches will shear down some early in the life of the oil and then stabilize.
 
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I have heard a report that the T6 now has some moly in it and might not be good for wet clutches.

BUT.....that was only one report several months ago and I've seen no substantiation of that yet.

Some searching might be in order.
 
Yes there is molybdenum in varying quantities in most all oils

I shied away from it on our old 11 RT SM5, but used it without any problems on my 07 Honda Shadow for 36,000 miles, and about 80,000 miles on the SE6 trannies/engines on 3 Spyders.

All I THINK I know is - Stay away from energy conserving oils in motorcycles; change oil regularly (as advised by manufacturer); Ryde More: Worry Less.

If you want some more reading on different oils from Blackstone Labs https://www.blackstone-labs.com/Newsletters/Gas-Diesel/July-1-2017.php

They say use what works for you :f_spider:
 
They say use what works for you :f_spider:

Yes but if they change the formulation, what worked yesterday might not today.

And I do NOT buy your claim about moly additives........at least not in oils designated for motorcycle use.
All bike oils that I am familiar with contain NONE because no matter how small the amount, it tends to "stick" to the clutch plates and accumulates over time.
 
THESE TWO OILS - AND MOLYBENDIUM

Yes but if they change the formulation, what worked yesterday might not today.

And I do NOT buy your claim about moly additives........at least not in oils designated for motorcycle use.
All bike oils that I am familiar with contain NONE because no matter how small the amount, it tends to "stick" to the clutch plates and accumulates over time.
Amsoil has the lowest amount followed by Valvoline 4 T -stroke, both are full synthetic ..... both have some Moly but very little. I saw this on a test chart of about 20 popular Mtc oils .......Mike :thumbup:
 
The 'friction reduction molybdenum' (MoS2?) that we all learnt (quite rightly too!) that you shouldn't use in motorcycles with wet clutches some years back is just a little different to the oil soluble liquid 'anti-wear molybdenum' (MoDTC?) that's now present to some degree in pretty much all oils these days, altho admittedly it's often used at very small concentration levels, but it's still there!.... :dontknow:

Admittedly the link below is from Royal Purple, but that aside, it still helps shine a little light on the subject..... especially if you dig a little further & check out other sources too! ;)

http://www.royalpurple.com/blog/the-down-low-on-motorcycle-oil/
 
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To my understanding T6 didn't change it's formula, it changed it's certifications and is now rated MA2, which is the modern motorcycle oil rating with catalytic converters.
 
To my understanding T6 didn't change it's formula, it changed it's certifications and is now rated MA2, which is the modern motorcycle oil rating with catalytic converters.

That happened a couple of years ago.
What I'm talking about happened only a few months ago.

The previously mentioned different "moly" products might explain the confusion.

The problem comes with the "dry" additive which is molybdenum disulphide.
If it was the other kind that got added to T6 then it shouldn't be a problem.

For those who use T6 in a motorcycle, you might want to look closely at the label when buying a new supply.
Anything older than 4 months should be fine regardless.
 
MOLY

The 'friction reduction molybdenum' (MoS2?) that we all learnt (quite rightly too!) that you shouldn't use in motorcycles with wet clutches some years back is just a little different to the oil soluble liquid 'anti-wear molybdenum' (MoDTC?) that's now present to some degree in pretty much all oils these days, altho admittedly it's often used at very small concentration levels, but it's still there!.... :dontknow:

Admittedly the link below is from Royal Purple, but that aside, it still helps shine a little light on the subject..... especially if you dig a little further & check out other sources too! ;)

http://www.royalpurple.com/blog/the-down-low-on-motorcycle-oil/
... This article was written in 2010 ..... so it's seven years old ....... Mike :thumbup:
 
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