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belt tension
- Thread starter fjray
- Start date
BajaRon
Well-known member
I can highly recommend the Krikit belt tension gauge. Small, easy to use, very accurate. I carry them for $18.95 delivered. You can contact me at [email protected]
Belt tenshion
Food for thought 2014rt went to a dealer dealer adjusted belt tenshion and alignment shortly after I tested the belt with a cricket gauge off the gauge very high, owner went back to dealer dealers test belt was at 900 foot pounds way too high, owner demanded to see the dealer shop manual the book said it should be 450 foot pounds +or- 150 foot pounds. Dealer adjusted it to 450 machanic said it is very hard to get the belt tenshion and alignment to book specks next day belt was walking side to side back to dealer for belt alignment. Machanic it is difficult to get it right on factory specks why???
would like in put
Food for thought 2014rt went to a dealer dealer adjusted belt tenshion and alignment shortly after I tested the belt with a cricket gauge off the gauge very high, owner went back to dealer dealers test belt was at 900 foot pounds way too high, owner demanded to see the dealer shop manual the book said it should be 450 foot pounds +or- 150 foot pounds. Dealer adjusted it to 450 machanic said it is very hard to get the belt tenshion and alignment to book specks next day belt was walking side to side back to dealer for belt alignment. Machanic it is difficult to get it right on factory specks why???
would like in put
BajaRon
Well-known member
Food for thought 2014rt went to a dealer dealer adjusted belt tenshion and alignment shortly after I tested the belt with a cricket gauge off the gauge very high, owner went back to dealer dealers test belt was at 900 foot pounds way too high, owner demanded to see the dealer shop manual the book said it should be 450 foot pounds +or- 150 foot pounds. Dealer adjusted it to 450 machanic said it is very hard to get the belt tenshion and alignment to book specks next day belt was walking side to side back to dealer for belt alignment. Machanic it is difficult to get it right on factory specks why???
It's not so much hard as it is time consuming, especially if you're not good at it. Time is money at a dealership and some aren't going to spend much time on belt alignment/tension.
The problem, of course, is that one affects the other. After a large tension adjustment like yours, it will take some time for the belt to settle into it's new environment.
BajaRon
Well-known member
That is an air tanker retardant drop on a wildland fire in California. I can send you a copy of the full size picture if you like. Pretty impressive. Definitely, a lot of fun!
Food for thought 2014rt went to a dealer dealer adjusted belt tenshion and alignment shortly after I tested the belt with a cricket gauge off the gauge very high, owner went back to dealer dealers test belt was at 900 foot pounds way too high, owner demanded to see the dealer shop manual the book said it should be 450 foot pounds +or- 150 foot pounds. Dealer adjusted it to 450 machanic said it is very hard to get the belt tenshion and alignment to book specks next day belt was walking side to side back to dealer for belt alignment. Machanic it is difficult to get it right on factory specks why???
900 N (newtons not foot pounds) was correct. The spec for 2014 RT's is 1050 N +/- 150 N (i.e. 900 - 1200 N). I don't feel comfortable with the 1050 spec and we always went below that, like 850 or so, a little below the minimum. I don't experience any vibrations. The recent TST from BRP posted on this forum shows it is OK to go lower, as low as 630 N +/- 100 N as long as you don't mind the vibration that might develop at different speeds. I haven't gone that low yet but likely will for a trial.
450 N is the spec for the 2010-1012 RT's.
Roadster Renovations
New member
Food for thought 2014rt went to a dealer dealer adjusted belt tenshion and alignment shortly after I tested the belt with a cricket gauge off the gauge very high, owner went back to dealer dealers test belt was at 900 foot pounds way too high, owner demanded to see the dealer shop manual the book said it should be 450 foot pounds +or- 150 foot pounds. Dealer adjusted it to 450 machanic said it is very hard to get the belt tenshion and alignment to book specks next day belt was walking side to side back to dealer for belt alignment. Machanic it is difficult to get it right on factory specks why???
I had to adjust a couple in SITS this past weekend. Both bikes were tracking right up against the inner edge of the rear sprocket. No gap at all. One of them was so bad I added 1 1/2 turns on the right and had to take 1/2 turn off on the left to even get it to move off of the shoulder of the sprocket. Even then it was barely 1mm off and could have went more.
FYI: Most of you know this, but we had a few at the Smokies that didn't know what to look for on their belts.
1. Make sure when looking that you have been moving forward and not backed up any at all. (backing up will temporarily change the alignment)
2. Looking at the back sprocket you should have 1-2 mm of play off of the inside rear sprocket. (this is between a playing card and a credit card)
3. The tension can be roughly checked by grasping the bottom on the belt at the mid-point and twisting. You should be able to twist it to 45 degrees and not all the way to 90 degrees. (obviously this is not "dealership" specs, but it will do in a pinch) Also, you can grasp your belt in that spot very soon after a dealership adjustment to get a "feel" of how much tension it should have. (provided it has been done correctly.
Others may have better ways of doing this, but it has worked well for me.
finless
New member
Just another nit, but it gets more complicated than that. Up thru 2012 BRP said the 998 RT's should be 1.0mm minimum. Then in 2013 they changed it to 0.5mm minimum.
Since this thread started with a question about 1330's, it gets more complicated. The spec for the 2014 and 2015 1330 RT's is as follows:
Quote:
The gap between the belt and the
sprocket internal flange should be
sum of "X" + "Y" = 3.25mm ± 2.75mm
(.13 in ± .11 in). If belt goes beyond
the outside edge of sprocket, have the
belt properly aligned by an authorized
Can-Am roadster dealer as soon as
possible.
NOTE: Belt can be in contact with
ONLY ONE flange from ONLY ONE
of the sprockets.
(Here BRP shows a diagram of the front sprocket which I wasn't able to paste successfully. It shows Gap "X" as the gap between the belt and the outer flange of the front sprocket. Below the diagram it is captioned as follows)
TYPICAL - FRONT SPROCKET
1. Front sprocket teeth
2. Belt
3. Sprocket internal flange
A. GAP "X"
(Here BRP shows a diagram of the rear sprocket. It shows Gap "Y" as the gap between the belt and the rear (inner) flange, i.e. the gap we're talking about in this thread. It is captioned as follows)
REAR SPROCKET
1. Rear sprocket teeth
2. Belt
3. Sprocket internal flange
A. GAP "Y"
End Quote
So what does this all mean? Well, if the front gap "X" were at its minimum, that is, zero, the rear gap "Y" could be at its maximum allowed per the equation:
3.25 + 2.75 = 6.0 mm. So that defines the maximum rear gap. 6.0mm. Assuming that does not put the belt outer edge past the sprocket outside edge which is not allowed.
To get the minimum allowed rear gap, we'd have to know the maximum front gap "X" that could occur if the belt were against the inner front flange. I don't know what that measurement is without pulling off the side panel and measuring the front sprocket versus belt width. However, since 3.25 - 2.75 is only 0.5mm, any gap "X" at the front greater than 0.5mm could result in the minimum rear gap allowed being zero or less than zero; logically speaking it would be zero. I'm sure there is enough width at the front that the outer gap "X" could be greater than 0.5mm (not having actually measured it). If we say the belt is touching the inner front flange, and since we're only allowed contact with one flange, then the logical minimum rear gap in this case would be "not touching" the inner rear flange. If we can get a 0.5mm gap "X" at the front and not be touching the inner front flange, then this spec tells us that the rear could be zero and would be allowed to touch the rear flange (one flange touching is allowed).
Why oh why did BRP make such a simple concept so complicated? Does it really make any difference compared to the old 1.0 or 0.5mm spec's? Only BRP knows...
Practical example: Right now my rear gap is about 3.5mm. Is that within spec?? From the rear of the bike and just eyeballing the front sprocket, I'd take a WAG that the front outer gap "X" is 1mm. The belt is not touching either front flange. So my rear gap "Y" must fall within the range:
Y = 3.25 - 1.0 +/- 2.75
Y = 2.25 +/- 2.75
Y = max of 5.0 and min of zero. Not touching either front flange, it would appear I would be allowed to touch the rear flange. I personally would not feel comfortable with that but that's just my gut preference.
In any event, since my measured gap of 3.5mm is in between 5.0 and zero, my belt placement is in spec. Now wasn't that simple?
Roadster Renovations
New member
Just another nit, but it gets more complicated than that. Up thru 2012 BRP said the 998 RT's should be 1.0mm minimum. Then in 2013 they changed it to 0.5mm minimum.
Since this thread started with a question about 1330's, it gets more complicated. The spec for the 2014 and 2015 1330 RT's is as follows:
Quote:
The gap between the belt and the
sprocket internal flange should be
sum of "X" + "Y" = 3.25mm ± 2.75mm
(.13 in ± .11 in). If belt goes beyond
the outside edge of sprocket, have the
belt properly aligned by an authorized
Can-Am roadster dealer as soon as
possible.
NOTE: Belt can be in contact with
ONLY ONE flange from ONLY ONE
of the sprockets.
(Here BRP shows a diagram of the front sprocket which I wasn't able to paste successfully. It shows Gap "X" as the gap between the belt and the outer flange of the front sprocket. Below the diagram it is captioned as follows)
TYPICAL - FRONT SPROCKET
1. Front sprocket teeth
2. Belt
3. Sprocket internal flange
A. GAP "X"
(Here BRP shows a diagram of the rear sprocket. It shows Gap "Y" as the gap between the belt and the rear (inner) flange, i.e. the gap we're talking about in this thread. It is captioned as follows)
REAR SPROCKET
1. Rear sprocket teeth
2. Belt
3. Sprocket internal flange
A. GAP "Y"
End Quote
So what does this all mean? Well, if the front gap "X" were at its minimum, that is, zero, the rear gap "Y" could be at its maximum allowed per the equation:
3.25 + 2.75 = 6.0 mm. So that defines the maximum rear gap. 6.0mm. Assuming that does not put the belt outer edge past the sprocket outside edge which is not allowed.
To get the minimum allowed rear gap, we'd have to know the maximum front gap "X" that could occur if the belt were against the inner front flange. I don't know what that measurement is without pulling off the side panel and measuring the front sprocket versus belt width. However, since 3.25 - 2.75 is only 0.5mm, any gap "X" at the front greater than 0.5mm could result in the minimum rear gap allowed being zero or less than zero; logically speaking it would be zero. I'm sure there is enough width at the front that the outer gap "X" could be greater than 0.5mm (not having actually measured it). If we say the belt is touching the inner front flange, and since we're only allowed contact with one flange, then the logical minimum rear gap in this case would be "not touching" the inner rear flange. If we can get a 0.5mm gap "X" at the front and not be touching the inner front flange, then this spec tells us that the rear could be zero and would be allowed to touch the rear flange (one flange touching is allowed).
Why oh why did BRP make such a simple concept so complicated? Does it really make any difference compared to the old 1.0 or 0.5mm spec's? Only BRP knows...
Practical example: Right now my rear gap is about 3.5mm. Is that within spec?? From the rear of the bike and just eyeballing the front sprocket, I'd take a WAG that the front outer gap "X" is 1mm. The belt is not touching either front flange. So my rear gap "Y" must fall within the range:
Y = 3.25 - 1.0 +/- 2.75
Y = 2.25 +/- 2.75
Y = max of 5.0 and min of zero. Not touching either front flange, it would appear I would be allowed to touch the rear flange. I personally would not feel comfortable with that but that's just my gut preference.
In any event, since my measured gap of 3.5mm is in between 5.0 and zero, my belt placement is in spec. Now wasn't that simple?
Thanks, but I'll stick with my way...
BRP didn't do themselves any favors in the way they presented it, in my opinion. The simplified version would be:
Front outside flange gap is "X".
Rear flange gap is "Y".
Y must be in the following range (mm):
Y = 3.25 - X +/- 2.75
Note 1 -- belt must not contact more than ONE flange (out of three)
Note 2 -- belt must not extend past the outside edge of rear sprocket.
It's just that simple but they sure made it sound complicated. Still much more complicated than their earlier spec's. I'd really like to know why they changed it. And why they feel it's OK for the belt to touch the rear sprocket when previously they always forbad it.
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