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Bad Boy (same as Seibel) Air Horn Install tips video
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Lew L
Well-known member
not the same
The Stribel and the "bad Boy" horns are NOT the same by a good margin. I have the Stribel on my Valkyrie and a badboy on the V-Max ( bothwith relays). You can easily tell the difference and the Stribel is a real step up.
OEM horn is useless. A Stribel horn is my next farkel.
Kaos
The Stribel and the "bad Boy" horns are NOT the same by a good margin. I have the Stribel on my Valkyrie and a badboy on the V-Max ( bothwith relays). You can easily tell the difference and the Stribel is a real step up.
OEM horn is useless. A Stribel horn is my next farkel.
Kaos
coz
Active member
Illinois Boy
New member
From what I have read and re-read a dozen times trying to wrap my brain around this issue, I have discovered that DB levels (or claimed DB levels) means nothing as stated by manufacturers.
The first problem is how the manufacturer has measured for a DB level. There appears not to be a standardized testing method used; thus stated (advertised) DB levels are not consistent among the various products. Testing has been found to have been done at varying distances from the source; thus nullifying any meaningful comparison between two products.
Also, the "note" of the horn(s) can make a difference in how well it is heard by the human ear. It is also known that a more dissonant sound, typically provided with the use of two horn reeds, is more noticeable than a truer tone/note despite any fact of any difference in actual DB levels (to a degree).
Personally, I would like a loud horn sounding exactly like car tires screeching to a halt on hot pavement. I suspect it would get people's attention if needed.
coz
Active member
Did not know that
Side by side , it's obvious they roll out of the same factory. I bought a bad boy three years ago at HF for 35 bucks. It plays a loud kind of high pitched chord. Sounds like two trumpets. It's been great. I did use the relay that came with it.From what I have read and re-read a dozen times trying to wrap my brain around this issue, I have discovered that DB levels (or claimed DB levels) means nothing as stated by manufacturers.
The first problem is how the manufacturer has measured for a DB level. There appears not to be a standardized testing method used; thus stated (advertised) DB levels are not consistent among the various products. Testing has been found to have been done at varying distances from the source; thus nullifying any meaningful comparison between two products.
Also, the "note" of the horn(s) can make a difference in how well it is heard by the human ear. It is also known that a more dissonant sound, typically provided with the use of two horn reeds, is more noticeable than a truer tone/note despite any fact of any difference in actual DB levels (to a degree).
Personally, I would like a loud horn sounding exactly like car tires screeching to a halt on hot pavement. I suspect it would get people's attention if needed.
Pampurrs
Pragmatic Member
Your Installation of Stebel on your 2013 RTL
If have a couple of questions that I need help with. Which side did you install your horn on, and the second question concerns the correct way to wire the plug and play wiring harness to the Spyder and the horn. Thank you in advance for your time and information/instructions. Dave
If have a couple of questions that I need help with. Which side did you install your horn on, and the second question concerns the correct way to wire the plug and play wiring harness to the Spyder and the horn. Thank you in advance for your time and information/instructions. Dave
Copperman
Active member
On my '13 RTL I had to remove the frunk to install the horn in the same location as the stock horn. There's a black plastic piece that has a small (2 x 2) hole cut in it that the OEM horn opening sits next to. You have to take a dremel tool and expand that hole so you can reinstall it over the Stebel. It takes a few times to measure, cut, fit, measure again, cut a little more, refit, etc so that you don't cut the hole too big. Then, it all fits back together.
As far as the wiring goes (now, this is off the top of my head), the lead with the fuse hooks to your battery. The relay is already attached and its lead connects to both the horn wires and the horn itself.
Hope this helps.
Feel free to call with questions.
Jerry
317-445-1411
lou49
New member
bad boy
Hi there! I know exactly what you mean as far as the location! I installed mine on the right side of the bike, right under the plastic by the fog lights! You'll have to make a bracket n bolte it to an existing body bracket on the bike! Can't missed! Once you remove the plastic you'll see it! I recommend using the relay switch! To me it sounds louder with it! Hope this will help!
Hi there! I know exactly what you mean as far as the location! I installed mine on the right side of the bike, right under the plastic by the fog lights! You'll have to make a bracket n bolte it to an existing body bracket on the bike! Can't missed! Once you remove the plastic you'll see it! I recommend using the relay switch! To me it sounds louder with it! Hope this will help!
AIR HORN
I also have a 13 RTL and have been considering on getting an air horn. Did the air horn fit in the same position as the oem part? Did you have to modify anything to make it fit? Approx. how long did it take to do the installation. Thanks for any input.
I also have a 13 RTL and have been considering on getting an air horn. Did the air horn fit in the same position as the oem part? Did you have to modify anything to make it fit? Approx. how long did it take to do the installation. Thanks for any input.
Copperman
Active member
See post #32.
It took a couple of hours, if I remember right. A guy I know, who's a mechanic, helped me.
lewis/ec
New member
Few points to consider.
1. Just because a circuit is fused at 5 amps, does not mean it uses 5 amps. You have to have a buffer in there to compensate for the 'current inrush'. The factor I use is 150%. So if the load is 3 amp, you multiply that by 150%. 4.5 amp. You use the next fuse size up....5 amps.
2. More than likely, there are other items on the same circuit as the horn. I have ordered full electronic manuals for the Spyders....but this is based off other vehicles.
3. There is a reason the horn manufacturer includes the relay. Most of these air horns draw 3 times what your stock horn does. The OEM wiring and connectors were based on that stock load.
4. Damage does not happen after one or two operations. It takes a bunch. But here is what happens....you break the weakest link. Might be a switch, might be a fuse, might be a connection. When you do find it, you get to spend a bunch of time on a Easter egg hunt that could have been totally avoided.
One other point to consider....orientation. The horn needs to be straight up and down, no more than 15 degrees off. Otherwise, the bearing in the compressor housing will get destroyed.
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