Bob Denman
New member
:shocked: You're scaring me... 
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2015 Side Case Strengthener Kit
- Thread starter pontow
- Start date
Roadster Renovations
New member
OK, so it looks like milling that back plate will not work.
1. If you turned the backing plates over to the unmilled side, how would they match up to the back? Are they doable that way?
2. For the difference you are getting on the holes, would drilling them slightly larger work?
As soon as we determine whether you need new backing plates with the shims will determine what I have to send you to complete the kit.
Good job!
As far as the 2013, can you shoot us a picture of where the screws go through on the outside of the case. This should give us a good idea of whether what we are doing will fit.
We will eventually figure out n exact fit that will work across all models. It looks like for the 14 & 15's we will need a unmilled bracket with enough shims to fill out the area and make a uniform fit.
1. If you turned the backing plates over to the unmilled side, how would they match up to the back? Are they doable that way?
2. For the difference you are getting on the holes, would drilling them slightly larger work?
As soon as we determine whether you need new backing plates with the shims will determine what I have to send you to complete the kit.
Good job!
As far as the 2013, can you shoot us a picture of where the screws go through on the outside of the case. This should give us a good idea of whether what we are doing will fit.
We will eventually figure out n exact fit that will work across all models. It looks like for the 14 & 15's we will need a unmilled bracket with enough shims to fill out the area and make a uniform fit.
Who, me?? Not sure who you are addressing here.
Roadster Renovations
New member
Sorry! Yes sir, questions are yours!
Figured that was what you meant but I had to give you a hard time! :joke:
Reversing them is fine. Not sure about question #2. There is no problem with the hole spacing. The bolts are about 7/8" apart and consistent as they must be since they pass thru the steel OEM backing plates. Your holes line up just fine. I think the reason the front one is centered between the tabs and the rears are offset is due to the way the plastic tabs are bent. They don't appear to be perfectly perpendicular to the flat of the case but come out at various angles. Regardless, the flat reverse side of the plates is plenty long enough to cover both tabs and fit in the allotted space and fit over the bolt holes.
Since the rear bolt holes are offset relative to the tabs, I would think the shims need to be a little shorter than the 1-3/8" I measured between tabs as one tab will be closer to center than the other. I'm probably not being clear. Look at my drawing for the rear hinge plate and picture the shim having to go in there in the same location as the way I drew the plate, that is, offset to the front of the bike. Let me know if you need further info or clarification. Thanks.
Roadster Renovations
New member
Good. The shims can be mailed out easily in an envelope. Let me cut some at 1-3/8" and get them out to you. We'll see how close those come. If you have tin snips, you can cut part of the edge off if need be. I'll send you a dozen to start out with. We'll see how many you need. We're getting there! And this is probably why BRP did not make a strengthener kit. However, it makes much more sense to me to put a kit on the case rather then have to replace the whole inner case. Lot of bikes out there with this defect.
I am wondering if powder coating the shims would be a good idea. Initially I wasn't going to, but ow that I am thinking about it doing that will make them thicker, make them somewhat springy (a good thing) and not rust since they will be out of the case and in the elements.
Roadster Renovations
New member
Hi Doc. Spent the morning in the garage with your new kit. The differences between your 2014 and my ‘14 are significant. The protruding area between the milled ends of the backing plate would not fit between the plastic tabs in any of the four hinge locations. I’ve pasted in a drawing below. The fronts were different from the rears in the way they overlapped the tabs. The fronts were almost centered; the rears would just about clear on the rear tab and were totally overlapped on the front tab.
Here are some measurements I took:
Distance between inner edges of plastic tabs, in other words the maximum allowed length of the protrusion created by milling the ends of the backing plate: 1-3/8” or 36mm. The current protrusion on the backing plate is about 1-5/8” or 41mm. As seen in the drawing above, it is also not necessarily centered. Amazing difference between your ’14 and mine.
If you decide to go with your idea of a flat plate and providing shims to fill the gap rather than a machined protrusion, here are some rough measurements (at least for my 2014): the shims would have to be no more than 1-3/8” in length or a tad less; bolt-hole center-to-center is about 7/8” or 22mm. I’m sure that is the same and that is what your current backplates measure.
Gap depth is about 1/8” or 3mm. I measured the current protrusion depth on the backplate at about 1/16” or 1.5mm. Half of what my requirement is. I estimated that depth by holding the flat side of the backing plate against the tabs and measuring the gap. If bolted on it would tighten up a little but not much or you’d break the plastic tabs. Interesting because pontow reported that the depth of the protrusion worked just fine and allowed him to draw the new plate against the original. But his length of protrusion had to be decreased by increasing the length of the milled ends (his tabs were closer together like mine). Now mine is off on both counts – depth and length. Don't know why my gap is so much greater. I checked all four locations and they were the same. Clearly something is different between these three bikes.
I'd like to say I hope this helps but it's probably not the kind of help you were hoping for. :sour:
OK, so I am beginning to see what you mean about the rear offset. Does that include the holes being offset also? Wonder if the other side is the same? We may have to have different shims for the front and the rear. I'll take another look at mine. I didn't think they were offset. Hum.......
I just drew the left side 'cause the right side was exactly the same -- offset towards the front. I think it's just the way the tabs are oriented -- not pointing "straight". Let me get under there again later this morning and take some more measurements. Gotta' head to the gym, then I'll get on it.
I'm sure your shims will work. I'll just have to cut some off one end and the other end will be a bit short but that's of no consequence.
Roadster Renovations
New member
I've got it!
Woke up this morning with the answer. We will cut the holes in half. That way regardless of where the positioning on any case is, it won't matter. As long as the bolts have the same gap between them, and they have to due to the width of the holes in the hinge, those modified shims will work. Since the 1/2 hole on each side will be enough for them to hang on it's own it will be a simple matter of putting enough shims on the bolts to be close to flush, then put the bracket on and nut it up.
This is what they will look like. Plenty of surface area in the center to make a solid brace! I will start on them today!
Woke up this morning with the answer. We will cut the holes in half. That way regardless of where the positioning on any case is, it won't matter. As long as the bolts have the same gap between them, and they have to due to the width of the holes in the hinge, those modified shims will work. Since the 1/2 hole on each side will be enough for them to hang on it's own it will be a simple matter of putting enough shims on the bolts to be close to flush, then put the bracket on and nut it up.
This is what they will look like. Plenty of surface area in the center to make a solid brace! I will start on them today!
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That'll certainly work. I was just headed out to the garage to take some measurements but you saved me the trouble. Note that in my case I'll need about 1/8" worth of shims for each of four hinges.
Think you'll try powder coating?
Roadster Renovations
New member
At first I wasn't going to, but I realized that the powder coat would make them thicker, give them a bit of flex (a good thing) and not rust. So, yes, indeed powder coat. I will try to get them cut and painted today. We are going to cut a bunch for Bob and ???
pontow
New member
Doc, I'm good on my end (2015 RT-S tester). I ended up custom grinding then hand filing a sharp corner and got all 4 backing plates to fit. Not too worried about the powder coat that I ground off due to the normal dryness of Southern California.
Roadster Renovations
New member
Awesome! Just holler if you change your mind! And thanks for all the help! Sorry the kit wasn't dialed in better!
Bob Denman
New member
Saturday morning... I'll know what we've got going on here... :thumbup:
Roadster Renovations
New member
We just did 48 shims and are cooking the paint now. We'll mail them out tomorrow so that you both will have them in a couple of days.
This is the little powder coat cooker.
This one I fabricated out of a Jobox and a Sears stove. I use it for larger projects like Spyder Racks!
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Last edited:
Bob Denman
New member
Thanks, Doc!
:2thumbs:
:2thumbs:
Just to let you know, they didn't make it here today, Saturday. Just came home from about 260mi on the RT, late afternoon mail was here but no shims. Thought they would be so I could work on it tomorrow. Late afternoon Monday delivery will be a Tuesday project. In case you were wondering...
trikermutha
New member
I was under my bike today and noticed there was stiffeners on the back of my hinge r under the bike looking up at my side trunk. Are these stiffeners any different than what you are making ?
Roadster Renovations
New member
What you are seeing is the OEM backing plate. That stays in place. Our upgrade goes across the plastic tabs that hold that plate in place. When sandwiched correctly together the entire tab area on each side is combined with the OEM bracket to make a substantial improvement. If you will look in the front by the hinge you will see the area where the tabs are on the back are voided. You only have a small amount of plastic towards the center of the hinge. That is a very weak area. Additionally, the Spring Bracket that bolts up to the hinge on the inside has legs that come out and make contact with the solid area of the case on each side so that it sandwiches the hinge and the plastic making it substantially stronger. The spring action allows for slight movement with the bracket, however the more pressure exerted the spring will push back. I plan on a video in the next couple of days. We have been baking a little bit!!
Loading up and getting ready to powder coat!!
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Roadster Renovations
New member
Calling all 2013 RT's
Had a friend stop by yesterday with his 2013 RT. I got a chance to look at his hinges and the inside looks the same, but the outside/backing plate area is different. His has a plastic stiffening gusset that bisects directly above the plate area. Additionally, the tabs that hold the backing plate are very narrow and not very strong. We will probably have to go a different route on the '13 RT. Fear not, I already have a few ideas. What I need is some good pictures. Where the screws go back into the plate closest to the bike.
What I will do is the best 2 sets of pictures, those owners will get a free set to test and keep. This IS a little trouble getting them dialed in, but like the 14's & 15's, we'll get this one figured out, too!
This is a sample picture from a 2015 with the upgrade. Yours will have just the silver bar and the threads barely sticking out of it.
Had a friend stop by yesterday with his 2013 RT. I got a chance to look at his hinges and the inside looks the same, but the outside/backing plate area is different. His has a plastic stiffening gusset that bisects directly above the plate area. Additionally, the tabs that hold the backing plate are very narrow and not very strong. We will probably have to go a different route on the '13 RT. Fear not, I already have a few ideas. What I need is some good pictures. Where the screws go back into the plate closest to the bike.
What I will do is the best 2 sets of pictures, those owners will get a free set to test and keep. This IS a little trouble getting them dialed in, but like the 14's & 15's, we'll get this one figured out, too!
This is a sample picture from a 2015 with the upgrade. Yours will have just the silver bar and the threads barely sticking out of it.
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