Sunday I was able to take my time leaving Healy since I didn't have anything in particular planned until Monday. I enjoyed my ryde to Fairbanks and located the place where I'd get the plane on Monday and then my hotel. Today I got a hotel shuttle to the airport and got on a Piper Navajo 9-passenger twin with 5 Swedes and went to Barrow, Alaska.
On the flight up, we stopped at Cold Foot, north of the Arctic Circle, for fuel and a "comfort" break. Our pilot, Todd, pointed out many things en route and gave us some history of some of the places we flew over. This is fire season and they generally don't try to put them out unless they threaten populated areas or the pipeline. After Cold Foot, we overflew the Gates of the Arctic National Park. The name is from 2 mountains in a river valley that are like gateposts in the mountain pass. We flew low right between them and it was beautiful. They are part of the Brooks range.
We landed in Barrow in fog and we felt drizzle in the air when we got out of the plane. The wind made everything feel colder. But on the tour the drizzle diminished and it wasn't too bad. I took extra layers to put on but didn't need them.
Barrow is really interesting to tour the little town and learn about how people live there year-round. The town is only 55% indigenous people. Apparently there are a lot of scientists there. We went out on the peninsula about a mile from Point Barrow, the northern-most land in the Americas. We couldn't go all the way out because it was just fine gravel and the van wasn't equipped for that. I had planned on taking off a shoe and sock and at least dipping a toe into the Arctic Ocean, but chickened out and dipped my hand in instead. We saw lots of whale skulls, signs shot up (apparently the Alaska state pass-time), houses with lots of junk around them. They save and reuse everything, so it pays to have a pile of stuff in the yard so you don't have to buy when it's so expensive. The guide said gasoline is $7/gal.
I asked the guide how they get the cars there. He said there are 2 ways: (1) bring them in by barge from Anchorage or Seattle at a cost of about $5000, or (2) drive them there. But there are no roads to Barrow, so in the winter they come up the Dalton Highway to Deadhorse and then drive an ice-road along the coast to Barrow. This method runs about $1200.
Someone asked about funeral practices, assuming they used cremation since the ground is frozen so much of the time. But that's not the case. They can bury even in the winter, using the same machines they use to drive pilings into the permafrost. And the bodies buried int the permafrost never decay; so they will always be int the same state as when they are buried. He showed us "Mound 44," a mound of earth right above the beach. It's named that because they needed some way to identify an address for a possible crime scene when human legs were found to be protruding from the mound. It got roped off with crime-scene tape and all until they eventually got some archeologists there to excavate. It turned out to be a mother and children from about 2000 years ago. At that time the people built houses from whale bones and then covered them with sod. Apparently the house caved in on the people and they were trapped there and died. That is what formed the mound. There's an area full of collapsed mounds and it's believed there are bodies in them. It was the custom to leave the deceased in their place with their stuff and not disturb it. So all those collapsed mounds contain buried people from long ago. We walked among them and could see some of the exposed whale bones that formed the sod houses structures.
I asked about their diet, and do they grow vegetables in greenhouses. No, the indigenous diet is about 95% meat, but, traditionally, it's not cooked and so they get all the nutrition from the animal, which is often diminished in food preparation. They eat polar bear, whale, walrus, seals, fish, caribou, birds.
There is a central power plant for the town, burning natural gas, which is abundant on the north slope. At each house is a big round pipe sticking out of the ground and then a big black pipe goes from there under and into the house. This delivers heat and electric. So houses don't need furnaces, but they have water heaters.
I took some pictures but will put them up later. I wanted to write about this while it was still fresh in my mind. I'm sure I've forgotten something, but will add to it later if I can come up with more.