• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Head Lights

jtpollock

New member
O.K. both head lights burnt out this morning. are the bulbs just a standard H-7 or ma I mistaken :dontknow: jtpollock
 
Hi jtpollock,

Re: O.K. both head lights burnt out this morning.

With the other problems you have been having, that gives me a 'Hmmmm' moment.

I think it is a rare occurence that both would go out at the same time unless something caused it.

Hmmmmm,

Jerry Baumchen
 
Hi jtpollock,

Re: O.K. both head lights burnt out this morning.

With the other problems you have been having, that gives me a 'Hmmmm' moment.

I think it is a rare occurence that both would go out at the same time unless something caused it.

Hmmmmm,

Jerry Baumchen

Many issues posted. See previous posts.
 
Last edited:
Hi JT,
:shocked: this certainly has been a rough patch of road for you and your Spyder... :banghead:
I think that Jerry's right; this could be another result of whatever the basic problem is with your bike...
Having them both pop at the same time isn't impossible; but it's pretty darn unlikely! :gaah:
I'll go see if I can find out what sort of bulb you should be using; but I wouldn't want to see you put them in, until the bike's Gremlins have been excised!

EDIT: The Manual just says, "2 x 55 watts"... :dontknow:
 
Last edited:
Yeah..!!

hey are H7 bulbs and you have a large selection at auto stores. But as mentioned above check things first cause its rare they would both go out at the same time. Check fuses and relays and so on...:thumbup::gaah:
 
hey are H7 bulbs and you have a large selection at auto stores. But as mentioned above check things first cause its rare they would both go out at the same time. Check fuses and relays and so on...:thumbup::gaah:


Thanks all I will check the relay I did replace both head light at the same time around 20,000 miles back around a year and a half it was a ruff job but I think I can do it again.
To for all your help :bowdown: nojoke jtpollock
 
Well I got home last night after work took everything off the dash pulled the head lights nad yess both were burnt out
the left one was melted.

I can't tell if there is any problem with the wires because I can't see that well inside and the wires are very short.

I will not be able to get into the dealer untail Tuesday I will have them check the fuse and everything else
then reinstall the bulbs and most likely a new fuse, the standers is we have to wait for parts.

If they can't fix it in a reasonal amount of time I will not be going to Deadwoow for the 3 wheel rally
July 16th to the 19.

Well thats all for know it's familey time.

If anyone else out there has had a headlight bulb melt please let me know :banghead::banghead::banghead:.jtpollock
 
You must have the patience of a saint. I would have booted that darn Spyder into touch a long while ago.
 
You must have the patience of a saint. I would have booted that darn Spyder into touch a long while ago.


Well if this give you any idea I have been maried to the same woman for 43 years I just don't give up when I fine somthing that generaly makes
me happy and my Spyder has done that except these past few mounths.

The left headlight wire connector is melted not sure what that will cost to fix :dontknow: and in good conchase I can't sell the thing and leave someone else
with my problem.

I had an 84 bornco for 8 mounths I may have driven it 3 weeks that whole time, ford took it back and resold it without it being fixed I still think about that
my upbringing tought me to make the best of my life and make things wokout the best I can.

If they can fix what ever the problem was or is and it will run like it did I lookikg for another miminum of 50,000 miles maybe more I put 78,000 miles
on my Honda Shadow with little more than oil and tires :dontknow: thats what I expected from the Spyder. :helpsmilie:jtpollock
 
Well if this give you any idea I have been maried to the same woman for 43 years I just don't give up when I fine somthing that generaly makes
me happy and my Spyder has done that except these past few mounths.

The left headlight wire connector is melted not sure what that will cost to fix :dontknow: and in good conchase I can't sell the thing and leave someone else
with my problem.

I had an 84 bornco for 8 mounths I may have driven it 3 weeks that whole time, ford took it back and resold it without it being fixed I still think about that
my upbringing tought me to make the best of my life and make things wokout the best I can.

If they can fix what ever the problem was or is and it will run like it did I lookikg for another miminum of 50,000 miles maybe more I put 78,000 miles
on my Honda Shadow with little more than oil and tires :dontknow: thats what I expected from the Spyder. :helpsmilie:jtpollock


I take my hat off to you. I'm a man of little patience. Have got you beat on the marriage thing though, 50 years 2 weeks ago!
Last year I bought a used 2004 Honda Shadow (Aero VT750) with 20K miles on it so that when my brother comes from England next week we can go on a 7 day road trip together. I have done absolutely nothing to it as there is nothing to do. It runs beautifully & returns 70mpg (Canadian gallons)

That headlight business is very fishy. Would take a large amp surge to burn/melt the wires.
 
Well Old goat I got you beat Been married 63 years!! But my head light went out also and if I understand it it is an H7? A 2010 RSS. Thanks for the input you can give.
 
Well Old goat I got you beat Been married 63 years!! But my head light went out also and if I understand it it is an H7? A 2010 RSS. Thanks for the input you can give.

Wow. I will never get to that. Well done. The young'uns these days barely last a few years.

One bulb went out or both of them?
If only one then more than likely a bulb worn out, If both went out I would check your fuses & relays.

Never had to pull a headlamp bulb but I hear it is a pain.
 
Last edited:
Well Spent the whole day at the dealer :cus: not good news.

The left headlight housing at the point the headlight inserts melted when the light melted so that part melted to be ordered and the voltage regulator/rectifier needs to be replaced.

It started out looking like the mechanic was only going to replace the relay and reinstall the bulbs but after 2 hrs I checked in on my Spyder
he had the dash pulled apart and the front pulled off I knew it was not going to be good.

Got a call at home an hour after I left the dealer with the bad news.
Now it's just up to how soon they can get the parts and get me back on the road??? :barf: more news later I'm not a religious man but I will be :pray::pray: to the Motorcycle Gods [for a little help. jtpollock
 
Your reg/rec receives AC from the generator (stator) on your bike and coverts it into DC and clips the DC waveform to make the voltage the appropriate level. Usually about 14 to 14.5 VDC at highway speeds. The voltage is somewhat higher than static battery voltage in order to maintain a positive charge. If the reg/rec goes bad, it will typically crank out either very little voltage or way too much. If you had installed a voltmeter you could have seen the voltage going up and outside its normal operating range. I would install one with the new reg/rec and get my battery load tested as it may have been impacted negatively with the excessive voltage that melted your light socket.
 
Your reg/rec receives AC from the generator (stator) on your bike and coverts it into DC and clips the DC waveform to make the voltage the appropriate level. Usually about 14 to 14.5 VDC at highway speeds. The voltage is somewhat higher than static battery voltage in order to maintain a positive charge. If the reg/rec goes bad, it will typically crank out either very little voltage or way too much. If you had installed a voltmeter you could have seen the voltage going up and outside its normal operating range. I would install one with the new reg/rec and get my battery load tested as it may have been impacted negatively with the excessive voltage that melted your light socket.


:dontknow: there is not a lot of places to install much on the RS. Even if I had installed a voltmeter it would not ha stopped this from happening would it, just would have let me know that something was going wrong :dontknow:
I'm not very good with electricity. the only extra electrical items I have installed are trickled fender lights and my trailer wiring and I got a little help with that.. Thanks for the input if I can find a space maybe the dealer could install it. jtpollock
 
:dontknow: there is not a lot of places to install much on the RS. Even if I had installed a voltmeter it would not ha stopped this from happening would it, just would have let me know that something was going wrong :dontknow:
I'm not very good with electricity. the only extra electrical items I have installed are trickled fender lights and my trailer wiring and I got a little help with that.. Thanks for the input if I can find a space maybe the dealer could install it. jtpollock

Actually, KuryAkn makes a meter that you can stick on using 2 sided tape (supplied) most anywhere is and is pretty small. It has two wires; one you run to the battery and the other to a ground; that is, any bolt on the frame. You would have seen the meter peak and show LEDS OVER the green which is the good zone. You should have quit riding at that point and parked the bike and perhaps even had the regulator/rectifier checked. Not sure where your battery is located but if you put a multimeter, set to a low value VDC scale connected to the positive and negative battery terminals and started the bike you would have seen voltage way over the 14 VDC or less than is expected and KNOWN FOR SURE your regulator rectifier was not working properly. In fact, just observing too-high voltages on the KuryAkn meter should have parked the bike and gotten it to service.

http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/...&kpid=952756&gclid=CKyK1LyEzsYCFQiEaQodMzcIqw
 
Back
Top