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  1. #1
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    Wink Shutting off Spyder -- neutral or kill switch?

    For my RT with a SE5 transmission, the manual says to put it in neutral, set parking brake, and turn key off. The girl who sold me my bike and went through all the shut down steps said she always just hits the kill switch then sets the parking brake and turns key off. That's the easiest but does it hurt the engine to continually turn it off with the kill switch.

  2. #2
    Very Active Member wyliec's Avatar
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    I always use the kill switch. Just in case there is ever a problem while riding, and you need to hit the kill switch, it will be ingrained into you brain. I have an SM5.

  3. #3
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    I was told to use the kill switch. It is also the way I shut off my Yamaha and everything was OK.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by wyliec View Post
    I always use the kill switch. Just in case there is ever a problem while riding, and you need to hit the kill switch, it will be ingrained into you brain. I have an SM5.
    The kill switch wouldn't be there if it wasn't to be used.

    It's a very good habit to get into to turn the engine off using the kill switch. Just remember to turn it to the "run" position when you go to start up the Spyder again!!!

  5. #5
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    I use the kill switch.
    2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
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  6. #6
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    A bike mechanic friend tells me that from his perspective, all the kill switch adds is a other point of failure for the bike to leave you stranded somewhere. He sees nothing it adds that the key doesn't already handle. He says he's had to replace a number of them over the years.

    I agree with my friend and only use my kill switch when I hit it by accident.

  7. #7
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    I use kill switch everytime, then parking brake and then turn key off.

  8. #8
    Very Active Member Firefly's Avatar
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    Always use kill switch. Anyone who rides much will tell you this-- been a well known preference for many years for most bikers.

    It's a safety reflex issue. If that is how you're programmed to shut the bike off--- that is what you'll do during and emergency should the need to shut her down arise. Never had one fail.

    The manual also recommends you practice doing and emergency shutdown while riding so you know what to expect.

    Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
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    Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
    Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!

  9. #9
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    Tks to all. Kill switch will become part of the shut down process.

  10. #10
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    I always do the kill. Personally, I recommend shifting into neutral before the kill, just in case you decide you want to move it around a little w/o bothering to start it up (easier to push in N). I often shift into N while approaching my destination, hit kill, coast up and hit the brakes.

  11. #11
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    I always use the key to turn off the engine, I did it with my wing and I now do it with my I don't touch the kill switch

    Be Safe
    AC

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkLawson View Post
    A bike mechanic friend tells me that from his perspective, all the kill switch adds is a other point of failure for the bike to leave you stranded somewhere. He sees nothing it adds that the key doesn't already handle. He says he's had to replace a number of them over the years.

    I agree with my friend and only use my kill switch when I hit it by accident.
    I agree with you and your friend. Living in a small farming and ranching community and having a motorcycle background, I wound up working on lots of friend's four-wheelers when they started becoming popular with farmers and ranchers. Most of the time the fix was as simple as putting gas in the tank, turning the gas petcock on, or cleaning an air filter. I replaced a few fouled plugs, a few batteries, and occasionally repaired some wiring that was destroyed by running through a mesquite or cedar bush. I also turned on a few kill switches that had been turned off and not turned back on but the only real part failure I ever found was two defective kill switches. I really think I can reach the key about as fast as the kill switch.

    Cotton

  13. #13
    Very Active Member SpyderLady's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firefly View Post
    Always use kill switch. Anyone who rides much will tell you this-- been a well known preference for many years for most bikers.

    It's a safety reflex issue. If that is how you're programmed to shut the bike off--- that is what you'll do during and emergency should the need to shut her down arise. Never had one fail.

    The manual also recommends you practice doing and emergency shutdown while riding so you know what to expect.
    I have ridden Harleys and now Spyders. Kill Switch should always be used as indicated by many.... safety first!!

    SpyderLady


  14. #14
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    Gee... I had been just stuffing the tranny into neutral, setting the parking brake and turning the key off... Your logic behind using the kill switch is solid and I believe that I'm going to try and get used to adding it to the process. Thanks!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by RGVSpyderGirl View Post
    For my RT with a SE5 transmission, the manual says to put it in neutral, set parking brake, and turn key off. The girl who sold me my bike and went through all the shut down steps said she always just hits the kill switch then sets the parking brake and turns key off. That's the easiest but does it hurt the engine to continually turn it off with the kill switch.
    ..

    A close by Spyder Rider called me the other day saying his RS SE5 would not start and would I come over and check it out for him.
    I got on his Spyder switched on and realized Spyder was not in neutral so had to push brake to start....Safety lock out on SE5...

    Freebob...

  16. #16
    Very Active Member wyliec's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeguy View Post
    I really think I can reach the key about as fast as the kill switch.

    Cotton
    On my spyder my thumb is right next to the kill switch. So, for me, the key would take a split second longer.

  17. #17
    Very Active Member Y Rider's Avatar
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    The operators manual states the following:
    MODS: Elka Shocks, ESI RT HMT Brake Light, ESI RT Brightsides, ESI Fender TIPS, ESI RIPS, ESI RT Day Runners, Grip Puppies
    AmerSeal Sealant, KewlMetal Kewlock, Scorpio I900 Security System, Stebel Nautilus air horn, KewlMetal Highway Brackets & ISO Wings
    Corbin seat, trunkrest & driver backrest, Capt.Jim's Belt Tensioner, SpyderPops LaBlock, Cat Shields, Bumpskid & Belt Guard
    Seal PUP Floorboards, BRP chrome, Ron's Anti-Sway Bar, Lamonster LED Head/Fog Lights & BRP Air Scoops
    2011 RTL , White

  18. #18
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    Huligan kill switch = trigger. Personally, I use it every chance I get.

    Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk

  19. #19
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    Stop, first gear (never in reverse even if headed down hill), parking break, ignition switch, kill switch. (Done mostly for theft purposes)


  20. #20
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    Stop, ignition off and parking brake set.
    I don't think about it. One of benefit of se5.
    6 states down 42 states to go

  21. #21
    Very Active Member ArmyJoe's Avatar
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    As use the kill switch as taught in the MSF course.

    Though every time I called it a "kill switch" I got yelled at.


    2009 Yellow SM5 with BRP R35 saddlebags, CHAD windshield, ESI Up & Out Mirror Extensions, ESI 4" Handlebar Risers, Hindle muffler, Green Filter, Juice Box Pro, Throttlemeister, Crampbuster, Cortech Sport Tailbag, trunk liner, trunk spring, 12V trunk outlet, Eastern Beaver PC8 Fuse Panel, and two dashboard Powerlet outlets.

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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by wyliec View Post
    On my spyder my thumb is right next to the kill switch. So, for me, the key would take a split second longer.
    I expect that you are right. My logic in thinking that I could reach the key just as fast was in assuming that I would be off the bike when I needed to reach the ignition or kill switch. Just about all of my previous experience has been on 2-wheelers and most of that on dirt bikes. There has been many, many times when I needed to reach the kill switch and the bike and I were both on the ground. A few times on bikes on the street as well. I can think of only three occasions when I needed the kill switch or ignition key while still on the bike. All three involved stuck throttles.

    Even though I probably will continue to use the key to kill the RT, I stand corrected.

    Cotton

  23. #23
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    Smile

    OK... Just my $.02...

    We use the kill switch. I try to go to neutral as much as possible before hand as well.

    Now that said... My brain is twisting here...

    I would MUCH rather have the kill switch go bad or wear out than the ignition switch.

    Please correct me if I am not fully informing this correctly...

    We had the rear Frunk lock fall in our hands the first time we locked it. Long story short... BRP told our dealer that we had to replace both keys, tumblers and main switch. As they do not sell just the tumblers. So we got new keys and such. Something about programing issues and such.

    And if I remember correctly the main switch is about $300 plus keys and programing of these keys. Oh and a new tumbler for the rear frunk and potentially the Trailer (As they give us a new one for it as well when new).

    Aaaaaaanyway. I see the kill switch as a cheaper option parts wise than the main switch . I am sure the labor would be potentially cheaper as well...

  24. #24
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    Default kill

    first gear,kill switch. (never use parking break) I remember many complaints of pedel getting stuck in lock position. Don't need that kind of trouble.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by IWN2RYD View Post
    OK... Just my $.02...

    We use the kill switch. I try to go to neutral as much as possible before hand as well.

    Now that said... My brain is twisting here...

    I would MUCH rather have the kill switch go bad or wear out than the ignition switch.

    Please correct me if I am not fully informing this correctly...

    We had the rear Frunk lock fall in our hands the first time we locked it. Long story short... BRP told our dealer that we had to replace both keys, tumblers and main switch. As they do not sell just the tumblers. So we got new keys and such. Something about programing issues and such.

    And if I remember correctly the main switch is about $300 plus keys and programing of these keys. Oh and a new tumbler for the rear frunk and potentially the Trailer (As they give us a new one for it as well when new).

    Aaaaaaanyway. I see the kill switch as a cheaper option parts wise than the main switch . I am sure the labor would be potentially cheaper as well...
    Your assumption is that by using the kill switch you're NOT having to use the ignition switch. Obviously, you'll still use the ignition switch every time, regardless if you use the kill switch or not. By using the kill switch, you have introduced another potential point of failure into the equation, and one I believe is not necessary.

    I see no savings here.

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