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Very Active Member
To kill or not to kill (switch), that is the question
Is there any specific benefit to using the Kill switch after turning off your Spyder? Or is it just there basically as an emergency stop button…..
Never mind, got my answer
Greg Kamer
"It's better to be not riding and wishing you were than be riding and wishing you weren't."
USAF, 20 years, retired
Sheriff's Office, 23 years, retired

2018 Can Am Spyder RT-Limited
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Very Active Member
At the insistence and support of the battery makers, motorcycle mfrs install kill switches to sell more batteries to those who use the kill switch and walk away w/o turning off the igniton. Best policy; Turn of the ignition and immediately remove the key.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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Very Active Member
Never use it, never will. Waste of space imho.
2021 RT Limited

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Very Active Member
Another legal team accessary. I never use it.
'20 Spyder RT: Bajaron swaybar. Q5 tires, Pedal Commander, PV3, Elka front shocks, GPS/USB/12V handlebar mount, Heli-Bars, Radar Detector, KOTT grills & vents, Shad top case, chin & DRL LEDs.
 
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Very Active Member
I use mine all the time to turn off my Spyder. After I turn my key off, I flip it back on. But that's me.
2020 Chalk, RT Limited, Dark and matching RT622 trailer and BRP hitch. BRP Drivers Backrest, Auxiliary Light, Garmin Zumo XT, GPS Support, RT Rear Panel and Travel Cover. Spyderpops LEDs on fenders, mirrors, saddlebags, top case and RT rear panel. Spyderpops Rock Guard. BajaRon Swaybar, Wolo Bad Boy horn, Freedom Windshield, Elka Shocks.

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Very Active Member
 Originally Posted by Mazo EMS2
Never use it, never will. Waste of space imho.
If your throttle ever sticks you may change your mind. Been there, done that! And approaching a curve at that.
2022 Petrol Metallic RT Limited / 'PYDER'
There's no place like G28 X0 Y0 Z0
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
Back in the (early?) days of carburetored engines, where carbies were rudimentary, often either gravity fed or served by a fuel pump that was mechanically driven by the engine turning over (even if just coasting 'in gear') & carburetors could easily flood/overflow &/or fuel lines could rupture & spray fuel over a hot engine, having a Kill-Switch was a great idea that contributed significantly to motorbike & rider safety.... but as the technology, carburetors, & fuel delivery systems improved, that contribution waned and gradually disappeared, especially following the introduction of modern fuel injection systems! 
Nowdays, once the ignition is cut there's no spark, no injector pulse, no fuel pump, no fuel flow, and all the (other?) electrical things that the kill switch was designed to cut instantly in the event of a failure or over-run in one of the other 'legs' of the ICE running cycle are being cut by the ignition anyway, so there's really no real need for an 'additional' switch to do exactly the same thing, but I believe they're still mandated... - just like on/off switches & separate switches for fuel pumps are mandated for (some?) light/ultra-light aircraft.... they're a hangover from the days when these things were useful & even played a part in keeping the machinery safe &/or saving lives, so they are still included just to satisfy the legal mandate, even if they aren't quite so useful or life-saving anymore!
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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The best use of the "kill switch" is to flip it on a buddies bike when you stop to eat, gas up, etc. Then watch him go a bit crazy when the bike won't re-start. The only time I have ever used a kill switch myself is when I had a tipover of a regular motorcycle and it was the fastest way to shut off the engine since the ignition key was located on the side of the bike which was down on the ground.
2021 Spyder RT
Retired U.S. Army
Life Member, NRA
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Active Member
Those switches were mandated around 1970±2. They were for emergency responders -- they standardized the way a motorcycle could be shut off in the case of an incident. From then on all bikes had a red switch on the right handlebar.
In the early days they just cut off the sparks. Many, many bike batteries were cranked into oblivion when it was accidentally flipped off. I tend to not use mandated 'features'.
It's a good adrenalin rush if you bump it passing or on the interstate!
Head in the game, eyes down the road... 2020RT
Spyder Tryke Pylot
2020 RT , Lamonster extender Petrol
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Very Active Member
Guess I'm just too set in my ways. Last thing flipped on before starter button. First thing flipped off when done. Hope its never needed but the muscle memory is there.
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SpyderLovers Ambassador
Kill Switch?
...I have only used it for emergency reasons. I have heard that some people have had some issues.
As others have said, it has been around for years....
ENJOY YOUR LIFE WITH A SPYDER
My Spyder ..... 'Little Blue-Boy'
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Very Active Member
 Originally Posted by Little Blue
 ...I have only used it for emergency reasons. I have heard that some people have had some issues.
As others have said, it has been around for years.... 
Just 1 more failure point to troubleshoot IMO.
'20 Spyder RT: Bajaron swaybar. Q5 tires, Pedal Commander, PV3, Elka front shocks, GPS/USB/12V handlebar mount, Heli-Bars, Radar Detector, KOTT grills & vents, Shad top case, chin & DRL LEDs.
 
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Very Active Member
I use it at the gas pump to keep the cluster powered so I can read the odo, reset the trip meters, and enter the miles into my fuel record while I'm pumping gas.

2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Very Active Member
When I started riding there was no such thing and I have never bothered with it. Other than to mess with a buddy at a gas stop
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 04-06-2022 at 10:14 PM.
Reason: Otger thean = Other than ;-)

Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI

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Active Member
Nothing like being stopped at a red light, taking a swig from the Lamonster drink holder mounted on the right handlebar, having the light turn green right away with a row of impatient cars behind you, and while hurrying to get going, accidentally hit the kill switch when putting your drink back to said drink holder.
Good times, good times ....
SIGNATURE PIC CURRENTLY UNDER CONSTRUCTION
2016 Toyota Sienna SE - hers
2002 BMW 325i - his
1994 Chevrolet Silverado K1500 Sportside Z71 - whoevers vehicle is in the shop
2009 Harley-Davidson Sportster XL883 Low (Vivid Black) - his
2018 Can-Am Spyder RT Limited - hers
2007 Harley-Davidson Sportster XL883 Low (Pearl White) - hers (SOLD 02/29/20)
2011 Tao Tao 50 - whoevers bike is in the shop
2007 Reinell 186 FNS - the dog's
1995 Fleetwood Flair 27R - EVERYBODY'S !

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Very Active Member
The "key" word is SWITCH.
This is a MECHANICAL device.
All MECHANICAL device have a limited life expectancy of a certain amount of "cycles".
Those cycles are designated in their design specs and AGE also play into that factor.
So it is not a matter IF but WHEN it will ultimately FAIL.
So you have a choice.
1. Not to use and pretty much never worry
2. Use it and EVENTUALLY find out.
In 56 years on the road, I have never used that switch except ONCE when the bike went down and kept running.
I have seen others that always use that switch. I'm still wondering if they ever got their bikes started or if they are still stranded!
AJ
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 04-06-2022 at 10:13 PM.
Reason: EVENTUAL = EVENTUALLY ;-)

2014 RT-S
Akrapovic Exhaust & Cat Bypass
Bajaron Sway Bar w/links / Sena SM-10/Garmin 660
Comfort Seat w Adjustable Backrest
Decals by Purple Harley / Magic Strobe
Kuryakyn Black Widow Pegs Rivco Highway Brackets
Rivco Trunk Mounted Double Flag Holder
FOBO / Spyder Cuff / XM Radio w MC Antenna
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Very Active Member
 Originally Posted by pegasus1300
When I started riding there was no such thing and I have never bothered with it. Otger thean to mess with a buddy at a gas stop 
Now you have me questioning myself....I’m now not 100% sure if my old ‘49 Royal Enfield had a switch or not.... i do know that it did not have a battery, so I’m thinking probably NO KILL SWITCH either. Damn memory lapses!
Tri-Axis Chrome Handlebars
Sena SM10 BT Dongle
Double USB Port/Volt meter
LaMonster Magic Mirrors
BajaRon Swaybar
HALO Skid Plate
Spyder Pops Rear Running Lights Turn Signals/Brake Light
Spyder Pops Mirror Running Lights/Turn Signals
Shorty Antenna
LaMonster Cat Delete
Akrapovic Muffler
FOBO2 TPMS
Rear Trunk Rack
Bruce Erickson
Chilliwack, BC
Canada
You know when a politician is Lying. It's when his lips are moving!
2014 RTS-SE6 - Cognac
intro to m/c 1949 Royal Enfield 500cc thumper
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 Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder
I use it at the gas pump to keep the cluster powered so I can read the odo, reset the trip meters, and enter the miles into my fuel record while I'm pumping gas.
I do that also, to let the music keep playing, and also to watch the fuel gauge rise... it tells me when to watch carefully for the splashback to stop pumping. (I don't engage the auto-shutoff in the pump handle.)
As for the old battery-killing futile cranking, that doesn't apply to Spyders, since the starter won't even engage. Thanks to the computer technology!
NEW - 2015 RT Limited SE6 Intense Red Pearl - 07/21/15
Retained the old mirrors with TricLed Signals
General Altimax RT43 rear tire (at...17,000 miles) Ran for 36,500 miles
Michelin Defender.......rear tire (at...53,500 miles) Ran for 60,700 miles
Riken Raptor HR.........rear tire (at 114,200 miles)
Vredestein Quatrac 5 front tires (at 70,500 miles, first new fronts!)
Gear Brake Decelerometer Module
OLD - 2012 RT Limited SE5 Pearl White - 01/31/13 - Traded in at 32,600 miles.
BajaRon Anti-sway Bar
Kumho ECSTA AST rear tire (at 14,200 miles)
TricLed Turn Signals in Mirrors
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Active Member
I use my kill switch unafraid all the time. What’s the harm? A switch is a switch right?
2021 Spyder RT Limited Asphalt Gray Chrome Edition
2022 Spyder RT Limited Hyper Silver Chrome Edition
Spyderco Paramilitary 2
Vanquest Gen 2 7x10 First Aid Trauma Pack
Garage Door Opener
iPass
DJI Action 2
Tackform Anti-Vibe Phone Cradle
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Very Active Member
 Originally Posted by Woodenfish
I use my kill switch unafraid all the time. What’s the harm? A switch is a switch right?
Yes! Which is exactly the point being made regarding unnecessary failure points. If you've worked in the auto or electronics field, you understand why so many choose not to mess with known weak spots.
'20 Spyder RT: Bajaron swaybar. Q5 tires, Pedal Commander, PV3, Elka front shocks, GPS/USB/12V handlebar mount, Heli-Bars, Radar Detector, KOTT grills & vents, Shad top case, chin & DRL LEDs.
 
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 Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder
I use it at the gas pump to keep the cluster powered so I can read the odo, reset the trip meters, and enter the miles into my fuel record while I'm pumping gas.
I do as well so that I don't have to wait on the warning screen to pop up again.
2015 Can Am Spyder RT Limited
Magic Mirrors
Short Antenna
LaMonster Dual Power Plate
LED Headlights
LED Fog lights
Vibration Damper
Spyclops
Spyclops II
Utopia Back Rest
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Active Member
 Originally Posted by Peacekeeper6
Nothing like being stopped at a red light, taking a swig from the Lamonster drink holder mounted on the right handlebar, having the light turn green right away with a row of impatient cars behind you, and while hurrying to get going, accidentally hit the kill switch when putting your drink back to said drink holder.
Good times, good times ....
Happened to me more than once.
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Very Active Member
 Originally Posted by Woodenfish
I use my kill switch unafraid all the time. What’s the harm? A switch is a switch right?
Until it breaks! Then it's a credit card bender! The kill switch is an integral part of the right hand module. It it breaks you'll replace the entire module. Price probably won't break you, but it'll hurt!

2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Active Member
 Originally Posted by RayBJ
Yes! Which is exactly the point being made regarding unnecessary failure points. If you've worked in the auto or electronics field, you understand why so many choose not to mess with known weak spots.
I’m a retired professional auto technician with decades of experience but I don’t take that as knowledge on Can Am motorcycles. I have read many schematics and am an expert in electronics only on the line of vehicles I serviced at new car dealerships throughout my career at both foreign and domestic. If I were to see a schematic drawing I might have a differing opinion. Knowing that I don’t I made certain assumptions.
I assume the wiring to the kill switch and ignition switch are all thin gauge low current carriers. When I hit the kill switch the engine ignition system circuit is broken. When I turn the ignition key switch a lot more current drawing devices is interrupted. My next assumption is that the ignition is on one relay while the other circuits I shut down with the key switch have their individual relays.
My final assumption is that I ease the current draw interruption by hitting the kill switch first breaking a load and then use the key switch to finish the shutdown process. Therefore I don’t understand how hitting the kill switch is going to increase wear on a low current switch. If there was a prior failure rate with the kill switch at one point I am at the mercy of the BRP engineers to remedy the problem. At the end of the day you it’s a personal choice where in an ideal world makes no difference. I guess I just like to make the job of stealing the motorcycle a little more different. Haha!
2021 Spyder RT Limited Asphalt Gray Chrome Edition
2022 Spyder RT Limited Hyper Silver Chrome Edition
Spyderco Paramilitary 2
Vanquest Gen 2 7x10 First Aid Trauma Pack
Garage Door Opener
iPass
DJI Action 2
Tackform Anti-Vibe Phone Cradle
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Very Active Member
Woodenfish,
You might want to get a service manual for your RT. Go to www.canammanuals.com. I think you'll surprised how some of your assumptions don't jibe with the real world! 
The kill switch takes one input of the Engine Control Module and takes it to ground to enable engine operation and breaks it so the input goes high to kill the engine.
The ignition switch makes/breaks three circuits. One is a 15 amp circuit that feeds all the various running lights, except head lights and fog lights. The second is a 10 amp circuit that feeds power to some modules such as the DESS, and on/off signal power to other modules such as the ECM and VCM. The third circuit is an off position circuit that takes the power input to the modules down to ground.
All of the heavy loads such as headlights are fed through relays directly from power fuses. The relays are activated by the ECM taking the coil negative sides to ground.
Almost all electrical devices on the Spyder are controlled by making/breaking the ground side, not the power side.

2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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