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  1. #1
    Very Active Member gkamer's Avatar
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    Default To kill or not to kill (switch), that is the question

    Is there any specific benefit to using the Kill switch after turning off your Spyder? Or is it just there basically as an emergency stop button…..

    Never mind, got my answer
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  2. #2
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    At the insistence and support of the battery makers, motorcycle mfrs install kill switches to sell more batteries to those who use the kill switch and walk away w/o turning off the igniton. Best policy; Turn of the ignition and immediately remove the key.
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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  3. #3
    Very Active Member Mazo EMS2's Avatar
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    Never use it, never will. Waste of space imho.
    2021 RT Limited

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  4. #4
    Very Active Member RayBJ's Avatar
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    Another legal team accessary. I never use it.
    '20 Spyder RT: Bajaron swaybar. Q5 tires, Pedal Commander, PV3, Elka front shocks, GPS/USB/12V handlebar mount, Heli-Bars, Radar Detector, KOTT grills & vents, Shad top case, chin & DRL LEDs.
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  5. #5
    Very Active Member Copperman's Avatar
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    I use mine all the time to turn off my Spyder. After I turn my key off, I flip it back on. But that's me.
    2020 Chalk, RT Limited, Dark and matching RT622 trailer and BRP hitch. BRP Drivers Backrest, Auxiliary Light, Garmin Zumo XT, GPS Support, RT Rear Panel and Travel Cover. Spyderpops LEDs on fenders, mirrors, saddlebags, top case and RT rear panel. Spyderpops Rock Guard. BajaRon Swaybar, Wolo Bad Boy horn, Freedom Windshield, Elka Shocks.
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  6. #6
    Very Active Member FrogmanDave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mazo EMS2 View Post
    Never use it, never will. Waste of space imho.
    If your throttle ever sticks you may change your mind. Been there, done that! And approaching a curve at that.
    2022 Petrol Metallic RT Limited / 'PYDER'
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  7. #7
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    Back in the (early?) days of carburetored engines, where carbies were rudimentary, often either gravity fed or served by a fuel pump that was mechanically driven by the engine turning over (even if just coasting 'in gear') & carburetors could easily flood/overflow &/or fuel lines could rupture & spray fuel over a hot engine, having a Kill-Switch was a great idea that contributed significantly to motorbike & rider safety.... but as the technology, carburetors, & fuel delivery systems improved, that contribution waned and gradually disappeared, especially following the introduction of modern fuel injection systems!

    Nowdays, once the ignition is cut there's no spark, no injector pulse, no fuel pump, no fuel flow, and all the (other?) electrical things that the kill switch was designed to cut instantly in the event of a failure or over-run in one of the other 'legs' of the ICE running cycle are being cut by the ignition anyway, so there's really no real need for an 'additional' switch to do exactly the same thing, but I believe they're still mandated... - just like on/off switches & separate switches for fuel pumps are mandated for (some?) light/ultra-light aircraft.... they're a hangover from the days when these things were useful & even played a part in keeping the machinery safe &/or saving lives, so they are still included just to satisfy the legal mandate, even if they aren't quite so useful or life-saving anymore!
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  8. #8
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    The best use of the "kill switch" is to flip it on a buddies bike when you stop to eat, gas up, etc. Then watch him go a bit crazy when the bike won't re-start. The only time I have ever used a kill switch myself is when I had a tipover of a regular motorcycle and it was the fastest way to shut off the engine since the ignition key was located on the side of the bike which was down on the ground.
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  9. #9
    Active Member ButterSmooth's Avatar
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    Those switches were mandated around 1970Ī2. They were for emergency responders -- they standardized the way a motorcycle could be shut off in the case of an incident. From then on all bikes had a red switch on the right handlebar.

    In the early days they just cut off the sparks. Many, many bike batteries were cranked into oblivion when it was accidentally flipped off. I tend to not use mandated 'features'.

    It's a good adrenalin rush if you bump it passing or on the interstate!
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  10. #10
    Very Active Member EdMat's Avatar
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    Guess I'm just too set in my ways. Last thing flipped on before starter button. First thing flipped off when done. Hope its never needed but the muscle memory is there.
    2019 RT Limited , Phoenix Orange

  11. #11
    SpyderLovers Ambassador Little Blue's Avatar
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    Default Kill Switch?

    ...I have only used it for emergency reasons. I have heard that some people have had some issues.
    As others have said, it has been around for years....
    ENJOY YOUR LIFE WITH A SPYDER

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  12. #12
    Very Active Member RayBJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Little Blue View Post
    ...I have only used it for emergency reasons. I have heard that some people have had some issues.
    As others have said, it has been around for years....
    Just 1 more failure point to troubleshoot IMO.
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  13. #13
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    I use it at the gas pump to keep the cluster powered so I can read the odo, reset the trip meters, and enter the miles into my fuel record while I'm pumping gas.

    2014 Copper RTS

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  14. #14
    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    When I started riding there was no such thing and I have never bothered with it. Other than to mess with a buddy at a gas stop
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 04-06-2022 at 10:14 PM. Reason: Otger thean = Other than ;-)

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  15. #15
    Active Member Peacekeeper6's Avatar
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    Nothing like being stopped at a red light, taking a swig from the Lamonster drink holder mounted on the right handlebar, having the light turn green right away with a row of impatient cars behind you, and while hurrying to get going, accidentally hit the kill switch when putting your drink back to said drink holder.

    Good times, good times ....
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  16. #16
    Very Active Member PaladinLV's Avatar
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    The "key" word is SWITCH.
    This is a MECHANICAL device.
    All MECHANICAL device have a limited life expectancy of a certain amount of "cycles".
    Those cycles are designated in their design specs and AGE also play into that factor.
    So it is not a matter IF but WHEN it will ultimately FAIL.

    So you have a choice.
    1. Not to use and pretty much never worry
    2. Use it and EVENTUALLY find out.

    In 56 years on the road, I have never used that switch except ONCE when the bike went down and kept running.
    I have seen others that always use that switch. I'm still wondering if they ever got their bikes started or if they are still stranded!

    AJ
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 04-06-2022 at 10:13 PM. Reason: EVENTUAL = EVENTUALLY ;-)


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  17. #17
    Very Active Member bigbadbrucie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pegasus1300 View Post
    When I started riding there was no such thing and I have never bothered with it. Otger thean to mess with a buddy at a gas stop
    Now you have me questioning myself....I’m now not 100% sure if my old ‘49 Royal Enfield had a switch or not.... i do know that it did not have a battery, so I’m thinking probably NO KILL SWITCH either. Damn memory lapses!


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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    I use it at the gas pump to keep the cluster powered so I can read the odo, reset the trip meters, and enter the miles into my fuel record while I'm pumping gas.
    I do that also, to let the music keep playing, and also to watch the fuel gauge rise... it tells me when to watch carefully for the splashback to stop pumping. (I don't engage the auto-shutoff in the pump handle.)

    As for the old battery-killing futile cranking, that doesn't apply to Spyders, since the starter won't even engage. Thanks to the computer technology!
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  19. #19
    Active Member Woodenfish's Avatar
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    I use my kill switch unafraid all the time. What’s the harm? A switch is a switch right?
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  20. #20
    Very Active Member RayBJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodenfish View Post
    I use my kill switch unafraid all the time. What’s the harm? A switch is a switch right?
    Yes! Which is exactly the point being made regarding unnecessary failure points. If you've worked in the auto or electronics field, you understand why so many choose not to mess with known weak spots.
    '20 Spyder RT: Bajaron swaybar. Q5 tires, Pedal Commander, PV3, Elka front shocks, GPS/USB/12V handlebar mount, Heli-Bars, Radar Detector, KOTT grills & vents, Shad top case, chin & DRL LEDs.
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    I use it at the gas pump to keep the cluster powered so I can read the odo, reset the trip meters, and enter the miles into my fuel record while I'm pumping gas.
    I do as well so that I don't have to wait on the warning screen to pop up again.
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  22. #22
    Active Member Baron14y's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peacekeeper6 View Post
    Nothing like being stopped at a red light, taking a swig from the Lamonster drink holder mounted on the right handlebar, having the light turn green right away with a row of impatient cars behind you, and while hurrying to get going, accidentally hit the kill switch when putting your drink back to said drink holder.

    Good times, good times ....
    Happened to me more than once.

  23. #23
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodenfish View Post
    I use my kill switch unafraid all the time. Whatís the harm? A switch is a switch right?
    Until it breaks! Then it's a credit card bender! The kill switch is an integral part of the right hand module. It it breaks you'll replace the entire module. Price probably won't break you, but it'll hurt!

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  24. #24
    Active Member Woodenfish's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RayBJ View Post
    Yes! Which is exactly the point being made regarding unnecessary failure points. If you've worked in the auto or electronics field, you understand why so many choose not to mess with known weak spots.
    Iím a retired professional auto technician with decades of experience but I donít take that as knowledge on Can Am motorcycles. I have read many schematics and am an expert in electronics only on the line of vehicles I serviced at new car dealerships throughout my career at both foreign and domestic. If I were to see a schematic drawing I might have a differing opinion. Knowing that I donít I made certain assumptions.

    I assume the wiring to the kill switch and ignition switch are all thin gauge low current carriers. When I hit the kill switch the engine ignition system circuit is broken. When I turn the ignition key switch a lot more current drawing devices is interrupted. My next assumption is that the ignition is on one relay while the other circuits I shut down with the key switch have their individual relays.

    My final assumption is that I ease the current draw interruption by hitting the kill switch first breaking a load and then use the key switch to finish the shutdown process. Therefore I donít understand how hitting the kill switch is going to increase wear on a low current switch. If there was a prior failure rate with the kill switch at one point I am at the mercy of the BRP engineers to remedy the problem. At the end of the day you itís a personal choice where in an ideal world makes no difference. I guess I just like to make the job of stealing the motorcycle a little more different. Haha!
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  25. #25
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Woodenfish,

    You might want to get a service manual for your RT. Go to www.canammanuals.com. I think you'll surprised how some of your assumptions don't jibe with the real world!

    The kill switch takes one input of the Engine Control Module and takes it to ground to enable engine operation and breaks it so the input goes high to kill the engine.

    The ignition switch makes/breaks three circuits. One is a 15 amp circuit that feeds all the various running lights, except head lights and fog lights. The second is a 10 amp circuit that feeds power to some modules such as the DESS, and on/off signal power to other modules such as the ECM and VCM. The third circuit is an off position circuit that takes the power input to the modules down to ground.

    All of the heavy loads such as headlights are fed through relays directly from power fuses. The relays are activated by the ECM taking the coil negative sides to ground.

    Almost all electrical devices on the Spyder are controlled by making/breaking the ground side, not the power side.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

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