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  1. #1
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    Default Frunk not always popping open with key - anyone else? Fix?

    Is anyone else having this issue? Maybe I just have the wrong expectation. I turn the key to pop the front, hear something pop, and walk around the front of the Spyder to open the frunk and it is still not unlocked. So I go back and have to unlock the frunk again, and this time reach around to the front of the Spyder and pull up on the frunk while turning the key. Is this normal? I have my bike at the dealer right now and he says it works perfectly for him. He can pop the frunk and walk around and open it up. GRRRR. Why do things always work right for the dealer but not for me. Anyone else have this frunk issue?

  2. #2
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    This is easy.....
    I connected a wire to the frunk lid latch, as well as the seat latch and I NEVER use the key. I have seen too many posts like yours.
    I got a #10 spring from my local Ace Hardware and slipped it over the pin on the lid. That and some lubricant helps it to pop open.
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
    2017 F3 Limited , Red, Black & Chrome

  3. #3
    Very Active Member coz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RICZ View Post
    This is easy.....
    I connected a wire to the frunk lid latch, as well as the seat latch and I NEVER use the key. I have seen too many posts like yours.
    I got a #10 spring from my local Ace Hardware and slipped it over the pin on the lid. That and some lubricant helps it to pop open.
    That was a thing back in the day, 5-10 years ago, and the spring was the fix. It worked for me.
    it was fun while it lasted.

  4. #4
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    Quite aside from adding a spring or doing any adjustments - adjustments that can be made to the latch, latch pin, or the cable length itself (take the covers between the frunk top & headlight base off, you'll be able to see the latch & potential adjustments more clearly that way... ) you might want to check that the rubber seal/gasket around the top of the frunk lip is seated firmly & properly in place - almost all Spyder owners eventually discover that if that's not on properly, it can cause difficulties with the frunk opening! So can over-filling the frunk or leaving something dangling out over that gasket, cos if the frunk's too full &/or you've left/ got anything crossing the gasket, it'll be putting the latch under too much tension, so it'll be harder to open - something which is usually usually alleviated by gently pressing DOWN on the lid above the latch while turning the key in order to get it to Un-latch....

    Many of us have also added that 'emergency opener' cable RICZ mentioned (& as also mentioned, some then use it as the 'normal frunk opener' ) which is simply a cable running from the latch to somewhere out the side/in the wheel well, initially in case the key operated cable gets dislodged/breaks or if something else causes the frunk to jam shut; but I suspect most of us have found that we will still occasionally need to press DOWN on the lid (to reduce the tension on the latch) while turning the key in order to get the lid to open easily/without forcing the key too much. Forcibly pulling the lid UP to open it is not a great idea - it stresses the latch, jamming it shut even harder over time; eventually it can cause the latch to 'bend up' a little, ultimately making the latch even more difficult if not impossible to open/release; and it can even break the latch/latch mounts!!

    So before getting too fixated on making adjustments to anything &/or fitting that 'Emergency Release' (altho you should do the E/release thing in due course! ) just check that rubber gasket thingy; make sure you don't over-fill the frunk or leave a pig-tail cable or something hanging over that gasket when you shut it; and if it's not opening easily, try gently pressing DOWN on the lid above the latch in order to lessen the locking tension & make it easier to open!

    Good Luck!
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 10-27-2021 at 05:32 PM.
    2013 RT Ltd Pearl White - Ryde More, Worry Less!

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    I have found that my "frunk is temperamental" but think it was my technique. If I turn the key and try to open it from the side of the lid or even left side of the bike, it has issues. If I turn the key and open it from the right hand side(from the seat position) it opens 100% . Im sure I will eventually have to use the wire trick.

  6. #6
    Very Active Member ThreeWheels's Avatar
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    I had the same problem. The bolt on the frunk that stabs into the latch has an adjustment and can be made slightly longer or shorter by turning it in the mount.
    Admittedly, getting the right adjustment is a little fiddly, but with patience it can be done.
    As with all the fiddly things on the Spyder, it helps to lubricate them with some beer and curse words.
    I still need to adjust the seat properly so it pops open.
    If it ain't broke, don't break it.
    IBA #47122

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    Quote Originally Posted by ThreeWheels View Post
    I had the same problem. The bolt on the frunk that stabs into the latch has an adjustment and can be made slightly longer or shorter by turning it in the mount.
    Admittedly, getting the right adjustment is a little fiddly, but with patience it can be done.
    As with all the fiddly things on the Spyder, it helps to lubricate them with some beer and curse words.
    I still need to adjust the seat properly so it pops open.
    With my Spyder , I need something stronger than beer. Crown royal for me. And a ton of cuss words.
    2020 RT , Chalk White

  8. #8
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    some lube at latch doesnít hurt, thought after 13 all had frunk assist springs as well as could open with out turning off ignition main thing is not to brake a key, or over stuff frunk binding latch in such way requires extra torque on key
    Few threads on adding pull string back up for both frunk & seat also helps you get intimate with your spyder taking tupperware off.

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  9. #9
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ollicat View Post
    Is anyone else having this issue? Maybe I just have the wrong expectation. I turn the key to pop the front, hear something pop, and walk around the front of the Spyder to open the frunk and it is still not unlocked. So I go back and have to unlock the frunk again, and this time reach around to the front of the Spyder and pull up on the frunk while turning the key. Is this normal? I have my bike at the dealer right now and he says it works perfectly for him. He can pop the frunk and walk around and open it up. GRRRR. Why do things always work right for the dealer but not for me. Anyone else have this frunk issue?
    I have done fixes on this for a few different Spyders ...... However you DIDN'T tell us what you own !!!!! ...... ..... Mike

  10. #10
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    Default Is the Frunk Lid supposed to pop open when released? 2019 F3L

    Is the frunk lid, 2019 F3L, supposed to pop open (unlatch) when the key is depressed and turned left? I currently have to reach down and pull up on the lid with one hand as I work the key with the other. This isnít a major inconvenience but it can be item to tinker with as the riding season slows down.

    I thought this topic was discussed recently but couldnít find the discussion in my searches.

    Thanks
    Poasttown

  11. #11
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    The mechanism the lid latch goes into can be adjusted up/down and forward/backward. Patiently play with it. You can get it so it works slick as grease. Mike, BK911, may not agree with me that it can work easy, but mine works with no stress on the latch mechanism. But if you do want to play it really safe, add a cable to it so you can open it without the key. Mike gives a good explanation how to do it.

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  12. #12
    Very Active Member bigbadbrucie's Avatar
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    I agree with Idaho....mine works well with no stress also. As to the original question, does it “pop open” mine pops unlatched, I still must open it after (note I said AFTER) unlatching it, but that isn’t while I’m holding the key. I pop the frunk and then go and lift it open.....been this way since I got it.

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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poasttown View Post
    Is the frunk lid, 2019 F3L, supposed to pop open (unlatch) when the key is depressed and turned left? I currently have to reach down and pull up on the lid with one hand as I work the key with the other. This isn’t a major inconvenience but it can be item to tinker with as the riding season slows down.

    I thought this topic was discussed recently but couldn’t find the discussion in my searches.

    Thanks
    Poasttown
    This is exactly what i have to do with mine.

  14. #14
    Active Member cravenfun's Avatar
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    Newly acquired '15 F3 just needed some lube in the latch. It doesn't really pop up after unlocking but it unlocks and is no longer two handed. It will lock now by just letting it drop also.
    John
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  15. #15
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cravenfun View Post
    t will lock now by just letting it drop also.
    Mine does that also.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  16. #16
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    wd-40
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  17. #17
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by missouriboy View Post
    wd-40
    WD-40 is not a particularly good lubricant. It's more of a cleaner and leaves a light coating of oil. For lubricating the trunk lid latch a grease like white lithium is much better.

    2014 Copper RTS

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  18. #18
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    My wife's 2021 RTL's lid felt like the latch pin was hanging up on the latch when the key was turned to release it. A bit of trial-and-error adjustment resulted in a lid that opens every time without any hang up.

  19. #19
    SpyderLovers Ambassador Little Blue's Avatar
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    Default White Lithium Grease

    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    WD-40 is not a particularly good lubricant. It's more of a cleaner and leaves a light coating of oil. For lubricating the trunk lid latch a grease like white lithium is much better.
    DO NOT USE WD-40.

    .....Use a very lite film of White Lithium Grease. Less is best. .......
    My Spyder .....'Little Blue-Boy'
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  20. #20
    Active Member cravenfun's Avatar
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    I used TriFlow spray lube on the latch. It's clear and garage stock as it's the only thing that holds up fairly long on my Tahoe's power running boards.
    John
    "some suffer from insanity, I choose to enjoy it"
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  21. #21
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    I (think) I just fixed my stuck frunk on a new but used 2017 Spyder RT-L. New to me.
    Symptom: key difficult to turn left, felt like too much force was required and frunk did not open. Holding the key in open position and pressing, rattling, pushing sideways eventually would open it.
    Checked frunk liner and gasket fit to ensure both were in position and seated well. Not a solution.
    So I followed my usual diagnostic procedures honed to perfection over 79+ years:
    Got out my metric tools and removed the Eberhard latch from it's mount to understand in detail how the *%!@^? thing worked. Very interesting, as it always is. I love taking stuff apart.
    The latch is a trigger latch and not a linear latch. That is, upon frunk closer, the latch moves into the lock position and spring loads its opening force at the same time.
    This means the cable from the ignition switch does not have to pull the releasing lock part all the way to open.
    All the cable has to do is trigger the latch to release itself. This requires a fairly short motion of the cable and not a lot of force.
    When operating properly, the click that is heard is the loaded release spring triggering the lock open. Then the frunk lid can simply be lifted open since the lock parts are disengaged.

    On my lock, when removed, but with the cable attached, I could see this action and operate it by pressing the jaw into the lock position, then actuating the lever which the cable should move.
    The lock snapped open very easily. But when I tried to use the key to open the lock after manual locking, I felt the earlier resistance and could not trigger the release mechanism.
    Hmmm.....WTF. It was pretty easy to fairly quickly see the interference was due to a slight bend in one of the latch brackets positioning the cable release.
    I used an adjustable wrench to hold the latch body and a pair of needle nosed pliers to realign and voila, the key snapped the lock open easily.
    I also noticed lots of scratch marks on the larger lever arm of the latch indicating this used Spyder had been subjected to a number of frunk emergency openings.

    Then I proceeded to reassemble the parts in a braneless manner and wasted 2 hours figuring out why my fix didn't work. This also always happens
    as I snatch defeat from the jaws of victory. Correcting my reinstallation error and using white lithium grease on the lock parts produced success.

    Conclusions: Many of the prior posts seem spot on regarding overloading the frunk and overstressing the lock. Also, regarding maintaining proper positioning of the frunk seal.
    My best theory for my machine at this point is an overloaded frunk may have resulted in excessive pressure on the key release which in turn caused slight bending of the latch mechanism.
    My correction of the misalignment was quite minimal to return the latch to proper function.
    And when trying to fix any problem, it's usually best, tho not always, to spend some time making sure you really understand how the parts should function. Lots of AHAs and minimal frustration.

    Hope this is helpful to anyone dealing with this frustrating problem.
    Let's ride safely, eh?
    Richard

  22. #22
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by libremente View Post
    I (think) I just fixed my stuck frunk on a new but used 2017 Spyder RT-L.
    So you're saying it now opens easily w/ the key, right?

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

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