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Frunk not always popping open with key - anyone else? Fix?

ollicat

Member
Is anyone else having this issue? Maybe I just have the wrong expectation. I turn the key to pop the front, hear something pop, and walk around the front of the Spyder to open the frunk and it is still not unlocked. So I go back and have to unlock the frunk again, and this time reach around to the front of the Spyder and pull up on the frunk while turning the key. Is this normal? I have my bike at the dealer right now and he says it works perfectly for him. He can pop the frunk and walk around and open it up. GRRRR. Why do things always work right for the dealer but not for me. Anyone else have this frunk issue?
 
This is easy.....
I connected a wire to the frunk lid latch, as well as the seat latch and I NEVER use the key. I have seen too many posts like yours.
I got a #10 spring from my local Ace Hardware and slipped it over the pin on the lid. That and some lubricant helps it to pop open.
 
This is easy.....
I connected a wire to the frunk lid latch, as well as the seat latch and I NEVER use the key. I have seen too many posts like yours.
I got a #10 spring from my local Ace Hardware and slipped it over the pin on the lid. That and some lubricant helps it to pop open.
That was a thing back in the day, 5-10 years ago, and the spring was the fix. It worked for me.:thumbup:
 
Quite aside from adding a spring or doing any adjustments - adjustments that can be made to the latch, latch pin, or the cable length itself (take the covers between the frunk top & headlight base off, you'll be able to see the latch & potential adjustments more clearly that way... ;) ) you might want to check that the rubber seal/gasket around the top of the frunk lip is seated firmly & properly in place - almost all Spyder owners eventually discover that if that's not on properly, it can cause difficulties with the frunk opening! So can over-filling the frunk or leaving something dangling out over that gasket, cos if the frunk's too full &/or you've left/ got anything crossing the gasket, it'll be putting the latch under too much tension, so it'll be harder to open - something which is usually usually alleviated by gently pressing DOWN on the lid above the latch while turning the key in order to get it to Un-latch.... :ohyea:

Many of us have also added that 'emergency opener' cable RICZ mentioned (& as also mentioned, some then use it as the 'normal frunk opener' :p ) which is simply a cable running from the latch to somewhere out the side/in the wheel well, initially in case the key operated cable gets dislodged/breaks or if something else causes the frunk to jam shut; but I suspect most of us have found that we will still occasionally need to press DOWN on the lid (to reduce the tension on the latch) while turning the key in order to get the lid to open easily/without forcing the key too much. Forcibly pulling the lid UP to open it is not a great idea - it stresses the latch, jamming it shut even harder over time; eventually it can cause the latch to 'bend up' a little, ultimately making the latch even more difficult if not impossible to open/release; and it can even break the latch/latch mounts!! :lecturef_smilie:

So before getting too fixated on making adjustments to anything &/or fitting that 'Emergency Release' (altho you should do the E/release thing in due course! ;) ) just check that rubber gasket thingy; make sure you don't over-fill the frunk or leave a pig-tail cable or something hanging over that gasket when you shut it; and if it's not opening easily, try gently pressing DOWN on the lid above the latch in order to lessen the locking tension & make it easier to open! :thumbup:

Good Luck! :cheers:
 
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I have found that my "frunk is temperamental" but think it was my technique. If I turn the key and try to open it from the side of the lid or even left side of the bike, it has issues. If I turn the key and open it from the right hand side(from the seat position) it opens 100% . Im sure I will eventually have to use the wire trick.
 
I had the same problem. The bolt on the frunk that stabs into the latch has an adjustment and can be made slightly longer or shorter by turning it in the mount.
Admittedly, getting the right adjustment is a little fiddly, but with patience it can be done.
As with all the fiddly things on the Spyder, it helps to lubricate them with some beer and curse words.
I still need to adjust the seat properly so it pops open.
 
I had the same problem. The bolt on the frunk that stabs into the latch has an adjustment and can be made slightly longer or shorter by turning it in the mount.
Admittedly, getting the right adjustment is a little fiddly, but with patience it can be done.
As with all the fiddly things on the Spyder, it helps to lubricate them with some beer and curse words.
I still need to adjust the seat properly so it pops open.

With my Spyder , I need something stronger than beer. Crown royal for me. And a ton of cuss words.
 
some lube at latch doesn’t hurt, thought after 13 all had frunk assist springs as well as could open with out turning off ignition:dontknow::dontknow::popcorn: main thing is not to brake a key, or over stuff frunk binding latch in such way requires extra torque on key:lecturef_smilie:
Few threads on adding pull string back up for both frunk & seat :clap: also helps you get intimate with your spyder taking tupperware off.
 
Is anyone else having this issue? Maybe I just have the wrong expectation. I turn the key to pop the front, hear something pop, and walk around the front of the Spyder to open the frunk and it is still not unlocked. So I go back and have to unlock the frunk again, and this time reach around to the front of the Spyder and pull up on the frunk while turning the key. Is this normal? I have my bike at the dealer right now and he says it works perfectly for him. He can pop the frunk and walk around and open it up. GRRRR. Why do things always work right for the dealer but not for me. Anyone else have this frunk issue?

I have done fixes on this for a few different Spyders ...... However you DIDN'T tell us what you own !!!!! ...... :dontknow:..... Mike :thumbup:
 
Is the Frunk Lid supposed to pop open when released? 2019 F3L

Is the frunk lid, 2019 F3L, supposed to pop open (unlatch) when the key is depressed and turned left? I currently have to reach down and pull up on the lid with one hand as I work the key with the other. This isn’t a major inconvenience but it can be item to tinker with as the riding season slows down.

I thought this topic was discussed recently but couldn’t find the discussion in my searches.

Thanks
Poasttown
 
The mechanism the lid latch goes into can be adjusted up/down and forward/backward. Patiently play with it. You can get it so it works slick as grease. Mike, BK911, may not agree with me that it can work easy, but mine works with no stress on the latch mechanism. But if you do want to play it really safe, add a cable to it so you can open it without the key. Mike gives a good explanation how to do it.
 
I agree with Idaho....mine works well with no stress also. As to the original question, does it “pop open” mine pops unlatched, I still must open it after (note I said AFTER) unlatching it, but that isn’t while I’m holding the key. I pop the frunk and then go and lift it open.....been this way since I got it.
 
Is the frunk lid, 2019 F3L, supposed to pop open (unlatch) when the key is depressed and turned left? I currently have to reach down and pull up on the lid with one hand as I work the key with the other. This isn’t a major inconvenience but it can be item to tinker with as the riding season slows down.

I thought this topic was discussed recently but couldn’t find the discussion in my searches.

Thanks
Poasttown

This is exactly what i have to do with mine.
 
Newly acquired '15 F3 just needed some lube in the latch. It doesn't really pop up after unlocking but it unlocks and is no longer two handed. It will lock now by just letting it drop also.
 
My wife's 2021 RTL's lid felt like the latch pin was hanging up on the latch when the key was turned to release it. A bit of trial-and-error adjustment resulted in a lid that opens every time without any hang up.
 
White Lithium Grease

WD-40 is not a particularly good lubricant. It's more of a cleaner and leaves a light coating of oil. For lubricating the trunk lid latch a grease like white lithium is much better.

DO NOT USE WD-40. :banghead:

:chat: .....Use a very lite film of White Lithium Grease. Less is best. .......:thumbup:
 
I used TriFlow spray lube on the latch. It's clear and garage stock as it's the only thing that holds up fairly long on my Tahoe's power running boards.
 
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