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  1. #26
    Active Member Eviltwin's Avatar
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    Sounds like the starter solenoid is stuck closed. Not quite sure how that can happen, but I dont have another way to explain why it tries to crank as soon as the battery is reconnected.
    2009 BMW R1200RT, 2010 Spyder RT-S, 2009 Honda Silverwing, 2009 Kawasaki 500 Vulcan (Sold)


  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eviltwin View Post
    Sounds like the starter solenoid is stuck closed. Not quite sure how that can happen, but I dont have another way to explain why it tries to crank as soon as the battery is reconnected.
    Any way to close it? What does it look like or where located?

  3. #28
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    D2 DIODE (STARTER SOLENOID)
    D2 Diode Troubleshooting
    A defective D2 diode will result in the following
    conditions.
    Shorted Diode
    Fuse F8 will blow continually.
    Open Diode
    Diode will not provide protection to the sensitive
    electronic components. Malfunction or damage
    may occur to the ECM.


    Replacement is on page 439 of my service manual. May be on a different page of your manual since I have F3-S. Same section has troubleshooting instructions and procedures for testing with a multi-meter. If you are going to attempt the repair you are going to need the manual and a few testing tools.

    It just looks like a typical starter solenoid........


  4. #29
    Very Active Member PaladinLV's Avatar
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    Turn the Emergency/Kill switch to OFF!
    Hook up battery.

    Then proceed as you normally would and see what happens. If it tries to start, let it start. Rev the engine, let it come up to temp and then try normal shutdown.


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  5. #30
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Automatic starter would mean stuck switch & or relay(by passing the computer), unrelated to the brake issue. Disconnected battery is a sound reset for the brake & other warnings, unfortunately something else just went wrong. & as many times as you have tried already, may cause physical damage to the battery & or wire terminal(weld pits). Glad you have not left on long.
    Code C1282 according to the spyder codes app is : Possible hydraulic brake circuit leak. & needs to be checked for fluid leaks. If & when you get the battery/starter issue resolved. Suggest you look in manual & find what relay to pull some are supposed to be swappable.
    Would definitely get the relay tested. The Solenoid could be bad too usually would pop fuses first & fail to start (usually, not 100%)

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  6. #31
    Active Member Eviltwin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gwolf View Post
    D2 DIODE (STARTER SOLENOID)
    D2 Diode Troubleshooting
    A defective D2 diode will result in the following
    conditions.
    Shorted Diode
    Fuse F8 will blow continually.
    Open Diode
    Diode will not provide protection to the sensitive
    electronic components. Malfunction or damage
    may occur to the ECM.


    Replacement is on page 439 of my service manual. May be on a different page of your manual since I have F3-S. Same section has troubleshooting instructions and procedures for testing with a multi-meter. If you are going to attempt the repair you are going to need the manual and a few testing tools.

    It just looks like a typical starter solenoid........


    Starter motor is on the front of the engine, not sure if the starter solenoid is there also. At this stage, probably the best bet is to remove the side panels and start looking around. You can trace back from the battery easy enough. It's going to be a heavy cable to carry the current. Can also go from the starter backward to find it.

    When you locate it, try and disconnect positive and then see if the bike powers up with the battery. You can also check for the 12v signal voltage to the solenoid to see if somehow that is closing it or you could give it a sharp tap to see if its something mechanical that is binding it.

    Basic troubleshooting at this point, if you arent comfortable with it then best to have it trailered to a dealer. HTH.
    2009 BMW R1200RT, 2010 Spyder RT-S, 2009 Honda Silverwing, 2009 Kawasaki 500 Vulcan (Sold)


  7. #32
    Active Member Eviltwin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaladinLV View Post
    Turn the Emergency/Kill switch to OFF!
    Hook up battery.

    Then proceed as you normally would and see what happens. If it tries to start, let it start. Rev the engine, let it come up to temp and then try normal shutdown.
    What emergency kill switch? The one on the handlebar? If the solenoid is stuck, that switch is out of the equation.

    Problem with this idea is that if indeed the bike started which is doubtful due to the electronics, then if the starter is still running the gear would be still meshed in the flywheel and it would probably trash the starter and may damage the flywheel.
    2009 BMW R1200RT, 2010 Spyder RT-S, 2009 Honda Silverwing, 2009 Kawasaki 500 Vulcan (Sold)


  8. #33
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    Remove both fuse box covers, look for the starter relay. May be stuck. Remove it and try battery cable again.

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevencovert View Post
    Remove both fuse box covers, look for the starter relay. May be stuck. Remove it and try battery cable again.
    This sounds like a plan found the solenoid..could I just remove red wire from solenoid and then reattach neg to battery?

  10. #35
    Active Member Eviltwin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wilpir View Post
    This sounds like a plan found the solenoid..could I just remove red wire from solenoid and then reattach neg to battery?
    Yes, if you remove the heavy red cable, there is no power to go to the starter. Then if the battery is back in the circuit, you can see what powers up. You can also test for 12v to the solenoid coil to see if that is holding it closed.

    Starter relay may be stuck, removing it could also disengage the solenoid. But if solenoid is stuck then relay wont matter. Make sense?
    2009 BMW R1200RT, 2010 Spyder RT-S, 2009 Honda Silverwing, 2009 Kawasaki 500 Vulcan (Sold)


  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eviltwin View Post
    Yes, if you remove the heavy red cable, there is no power to go to the starter. Then if the battery is back in the circuit, you can see what powers up. You can also test for 12v to the solenoid coil to see if that is holding it closed.

    Starter relay may be stuck, removing it could also disengage the solenoid. But if solenoid is stuck then relay wont matter. Make sense?
    Yes I will try it , to see if it unsticks..Thanx out to garage to beat the heat....

  12. #37
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    Ok removed the 2 red wires from starter solenoid..then was able to reconnect neg battery side no sparks no starting..when I went to reattach 2 red wires to starter solenoid, starter started spinning!..put key in and started bike went to turn off and starter was spinning..so I disconnected 2 red wires again..Any thoughts on how to unstick solenoid? Thanx for all the help at least its narrowed down now..

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by wilpir View Post
    Ok removed the 2 red wires from starter solenoid..then was able to reconnect neg battery side no sparks no starting..when I went to reattach 2 red wires to starter solenoid, starter started spinning!..put key in and started bike went to turn off and starter was spinning..so I disconnected 2 red wires again..Any thoughts on how to unstick solenoid? Thanx for all the help at least its narrowed down now..

    Yeah, I got some thoughts on it........ buy a new $25 starter solenoid and put it on before you have to spend several hundred replacing starter gears or wiring harness. If it stuck once, it will stick again, at the worse possible time.

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gwolf View Post
    Yeah, I got some thoughts on it........ buy a new $25 starter solenoid and put it on before you have to spend several hundred replacing starter gears or wiring harness. If it stuck once, it will stick again, at the worse possible time.
    Already on order along with a printed shop manual( to show how to change it out without messing anything else up!) so this doesn't happen again.....

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by wilpir View Post
    Already on order along with a printed shop manual( to show how to change it out without messing anything else up!) so this doesn't happen again.....
    That should fix the starter problem. Might be wise to test that D2 diode while you got it open. It should be right by the solenoid. Test procedures are in the manual starter repair section. If the diode is allowing reverse current or two way current it will damage the system.

  16. #41
    Active Member Eviltwin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gwolf View Post
    That should fix the starter problem. Might be wise to test that D2 diode while you got it open. It should be right by the solenoid. Test procedures are in the manual starter repair section. If the diode is allowing reverse current or two way current it will damage the system.
    Maybe. Solenoid was closed, thats why the starter motor was running. He disconnected both wires and then reattached both. I would have left the heavy wire that went to the motor disconnected and checked for 12v on the thinner wire that should be coming from the the wiring harness. If that has power, that explains why the solenoid was closed. If it doesn't, then the solenoid is bad.

    Now if that wire has power, then you need to keep going back to see what is energizing it. Somebody else mentioned a starter relay. I'm at work and cant check my bike to verify if there is one. That would be like a relay to fire a relay ;redundant. I've looked online, but cant find a wiring diagram. Somebody else that has a service manual can chime in about that.
    2009 BMW R1200RT, 2010 Spyder RT-S, 2009 Honda Silverwing, 2009 Kawasaki 500 Vulcan (Sold)


  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eviltwin View Post
    Maybe. Solenoid was closed, thats why the starter motor was running. He disconnected both wires and then reattached both. I would have left the heavy wire that went to the motor disconnected and checked for 12v on the thinner wire that should be coming from the the wiring harness. If that has power, that explains why the solenoid was closed. If it doesn't, then the solenoid is bad.

    Now if that wire has power, then you need to keep going back to see what is energizing it. Somebody else mentioned a starter relay. I'm at work and cant check my bike to verify if there is one. That would be like a relay to fire a relay ;redundant. I've looked online, but cant find a wiring diagram. Somebody else that has a service manual can chime in about that.


    There is a starter enable circuit that must be energized before the the solenoid can engage (if it was working properly), but it comes off the ecm and all the mode button, brake light switch, kill switch, and other safety switches must be set before it can be enabled. The starter enable circuit should not be energized if the key is off, foot not on brake, kill switch set to off, or any of the other factors not set correctly before starting. In order for that to be part of the problem, all the safety switches would have to be malfunctioning and the starter button stuck. However, only the D2 diode and solenoid are in the end loop of that circuit and if the starter solenoid is stuck closed it would energize the starter with the key off and none of the conditions for a start being met.

  18. #43
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    Is there a way to try and unstick solenoid? Everything was running perfect before unhooking neg wire..I left both red wires unattached waiting for new solenoid to be delivered

  19. #44
    Active Member Eviltwin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gwolf View Post
    There is a starter enable circuit that must be energized before the the solenoid can engage (if it was working properly), but it comes off the ecm and all the mode button, brake light switch, kill switch, and other safety switches must be set before it can be enabled. The starter enable circuit should not be energized if the key is off, foot not on brake, kill switch set to off, or any of the other factors not set correctly before starting. In order for that to be part of the problem, all the safety switches would have to be malfunctioning and the starter button stuck. However, only the D2 diode and solenoid are in the end loop of that circuit and if the starter solenoid is stuck closed it would energize the starter with the key off and none of the conditions for a start being met.
    Sounds logical.

    Wilpir, do you have a meter or test light to verify voltages on these wires? I wouldnt think a solenoid would stick, but who knows what happened when you were disconnecting the battery. More likely the diode that Gwolf mentioned could have shorted.

    If you touch the thinner wire to the terminal, do you hear a click from the solenoid?
    2009 BMW R1200RT, 2010 Spyder RT-S, 2009 Honda Silverwing, 2009 Kawasaki 500 Vulcan (Sold)


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    Quote Originally Posted by wilpir View Post
    Is there a way to try and unstick solenoid? Everything was running perfect before unhooking neg wire..I left both red wires unattached waiting for new solenoid to be delivered
    Put it on a concrete surface and smash it with a 12 pound sledge hammer.

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  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eviltwin View Post
    Sounds logical.

    Wilpir, do you have a meter or test light to verify voltages on these wires? I wouldnt think a solenoid would stick, but who knows what happened when you were disconnecting the battery. More likely the diode that Gwolf mentioned could have shorted.

    If you touch the thinner wire to the terminal, do you hear a click from the solenoid?
    No click...

  23. #48
    Active Member Eviltwin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wilpir View Post
    No click...
    Could be the solenoid is stuck. Would be much more definitive if you could check for voltages.
    2009 BMW R1200RT, 2010 Spyder RT-S, 2009 Honda Silverwing, 2009 Kawasaki 500 Vulcan (Sold)


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    I have a multimeter where to test? red lead to red wire black lead to ground or neg battery terminal?

  25. #50
    Active Member Eviltwin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wilpir View Post
    I have a multimeter where to test? red lead to red wire black lead to ground or neg battery terminal?
    Engine is ground. Connect the battery back in the circuit. Dont connect the big wire to the solenoid. Check for 12v on the signal wire to the solenoid. Should be 0 volts give or take. If it's 12v, then its keeping the solenoid engaged. If not, then the solenoid itself is stuck closed.
    2009 BMW R1200RT, 2010 Spyder RT-S, 2009 Honda Silverwing, 2009 Kawasaki 500 Vulcan (Sold)


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